I have been following this thread since the beginning and tried it out myself. All credit to Joe D. Thanks Joe for sharing this information with us.
Note: due to the different tolerance between each Glock, exact dimension won’t mean much from Glock A to Glock B. These pictures are only for visual reference. There will be lots of tries and errors but the end result is pretty amazing. It didn't make me a better shooter but it sure feels a lot better
1. new hole on the bar. This is an old design and it’s ~0.12” straight up from the old hole. The tip has been grinded down a bit so the trigger pad can rotate freely.
2. sear engagement. View from the back with back plate removed. Connector is visible to the right. I have not had any doubling with this amount of engagement.
3. Pre travel and striker safety engagement. Barrel removed and view from muzzle. The trigger tap just touched the safety. Pull the trigger all the way and pay attention to how much the safety moves up. Adjust your pre travel without disabling this safety feature (1st safety). Double check drop safety (2nd safety) as well. Also watch for the tap hitting the slide (small triangle area under extractor in this pic) just before return to battery. Check both trigger positions forward and rearward.
4. trigger in most forward position. Factory trigger pad hole is plugged and the new hole edge is barely visible in this picture. Trigger safety (3rd safety) has to be trimmed back. All 3 safeties are still functional.
5. trigger in most rearward position. 3 marks in the trigger guard is for forward, reset, and stop.