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Seth

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Posts posted by Seth

  1. They are really cutting it close on the weights, but weighing guns at major matches is the new thing. It would really be a shame if a factory, unmodified 1911 that met all the other criteria didn't make weight. That would be wrong.

    Good luck.

    That's pretty much how I feel about it. I have a nicely outfitted, but not outrageous, factory single stack 1911. Yes, the grips are especially heavy. But the rest of the gun is pretty much normal stuff... magwell, flgr, ambi and that's it. No different than any other 1911, but its stainless so there's a penalty there. I ordered an Ed Brown GI kit, so we'll see if that's enough. If nothing else, its carbon, not stainless so it should JUST give me wiggle room.

    Seth

  2. Steve,

    The gun is exactly one ounce over for CDP in IDPA. That's my number, not Springfield's. I measured it on a digital scale. For TSA, you were right about the mag...

    'Full-size Pistol (FP) Division

    Maximum Handgun Weight: The maximum (unloaded) weight limit for any handgun shall be 40 ounces WITHOUT the magazine. NO added weights or Tungsten type materials will be allowed.'

    I competed there last month and didn't pay attention to the weigh in, as I was shooting a Glock at the time. So I should be fine there and a GI guide rod will fix the rest.

    Thanks for the counsel!!!!

    Seth

  3. How much less would a 1 pc guide rod weigh over a 2pc, unless it's rifle drilled?

    Any issue with just going GI style? What about cheezy plastic grips? That seems a lot like low hanging fruit, if I can find a set and get them weighed.

    Thanks.

  4. I have a new SA TRP 1911. It weighs 42oz with an empty Tripp mag. I need it to weigh no more than 40oz to meet IDPA and TSA specs.

    The obvious spots are the 2pc FLGR and Micarta grips. The front portion of the guide rod weighs .9oz. The grips are 2.2oz.

    Anything else? Suggestions for super light grips? Is changing to a GI guide rod a good idea considering the usage of the gun?

    Thanks.

    Seth

    trp1.jpg

  5. As a certifiable FNG, I like being told when I make a mistake, I learn something. I also despise the rule bending, as I'm trying to learn them... if you bend them, I lose as I might not learn something I'll need later on.

    We had a shooter DQ'd today for dropping a loaded gun. They got their shirt caught in the holster and RO told them so. As they pulled out the shirt, plop. Hate to see someone get DQ'd, but thems the rules. As long as its a game, those are the rules and we stick to them.

  6. I love my Para. Wonderfully accurate, completely reliable. But the finish was terrible. Tons of chips and nicks. Their paint is not good.... anyway....

    Now I am left with a quandary. Blue or Hard Chrome? Hard Chrome is the BEST option for strength, I realize, but its kind of flashy and I like a classic finish.

    Has anyone Blued a Para before? Did it take color well? I read somewhere that they come out a little purple? I don't want paint again.

    nekkid.jpg

    Seth

  7. I bought a 17 in late august for comp use so as to retire the expensive to shoot .45acp. I chose it over the 34 (and the XD, M&P, etc..) for a couple of reasons. The biggest one was price.

    The 34 was ringing in at about $600 even. The 17 was $480. I paid $20 for the extended slide stop and mag release, Did a 3.5# trigger for about $15 and still had $85 for 3 spare mags. The 34 would've gotten the same upgraded sights so there wasn't any value to me for their adjustable rear. Similarly, the trigger on the 34 stinks compared to the Lone Wolf 3.5 connector, so I would've ultimately spent that money anyway.

    The only advantage and real reason to buy the 34 that I can discern is that it provides a whisker more sight radius. And as mentioned, its negligible at 10 yards. Since I shoot mostly IDPA, I want to keep the gun legal for SSP and didn't see any advantage in the milled slide.

    Seth

  8. No problem. I've found a really wonderful diamond in firearm customer service. They really spend a lot of time (read money) to make guns run right and have happy customers. Maybe its due to the nature of the liability, maybe its just a trend started years ago, but I've received truly stellar service from Para, Smith and Wesson and Springfield. All three have bent over backward to make me happy.

    Para is the real star of the three for me. There's a customer rep. in their TN service center by the name of Joel who's unreal. Outstanding.

  9. I have just installed a magwell/ MSH on a Para 1911 and filed the MSH back enough to make the grip safety function. However, I've been flipping through the manual and I can't find a spec for the AMOUNT of travel is customary for grip safety disengagement.

    Right now, with the grip safety engaged, thumb safety off, the trigger will not pull. About a .0625" of travel is all it takes to disengage the grip safety before the hammer falls. It FEELS good and normal. However, I want to make sure its within spec. How much travel before disengagement is proper?

  10. You need to try the LWD connector. I had the Glock 3.5 and it was HORRIBLE. TONS of creep. Put the OEM 5.5 and it, of course eliminated that. The LWD connector feels JUST like the 5.5 creepy wise, but with a lighter break.

  11. My first post! Yea!! I have a G17 that I bought a couple of months ago for IDPA and eventually IPSC. I have done sights (DP FO front and fixed rear), .25 trigger job, LWD 3.5# connector, heavy trigger return spring and lots of range time. I'm still finding that I'm low and left (milking the grip?). I do have about 1800 rounds through the gun.

    Has anyone found any good drills for isolating the trigger finger on a Glock? I have a 1911 that I can shoot straight without issue.

    Thanks.

    Seth

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