Larrys1911
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Posts posted by Larrys1911
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I use a 1 lb coffee can as a scoop.
OK Dillon thanks for the help.
I was using a formula can thats smaller than a 13oz coffee can .....
OK I tried loosining the clutch and turning the whole assembly.... then retightening it. Same problem.
It looked and still looks well seated against the plate on both sides. The plate sits off the bowl about hte width of a rim on a 45, I can measure it with calipers if you need me too.
The thing that sticks out to me is the engagement on the Drive to the clutch. Im going to say the engagement into the clutch is about the width of the roll pin that makes the "T". That seems like very little engagement. I also checked the screws attaching the motor to the bowl, they are tight.
So what now?
Larry
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It sounds like the lower clutch plate may not be quite centered, so as to prevent the motor shaft from protruding far enough through the plate assembly.
Without any brass in the bowl, loosen the two clutch screws, wiggle it a bit, and see if the plate sits closer to the top of the bowl. The gray case feed plate should almost drag on the bottom of the bowl. Then snug the two clutch screws.
THanks Ill check that when I get home.
I did check the protrusion of the drive "T" that sticks up. Its right at 3/16" which seems like it would be on the "just barely enough" engagement. The cross part of the Drive "T" (whatever its called) is just barely engaging the plate.
YEa I did check there is nothing under the plate and it is pretty close to dragging the bowl but I didnt measure clearance.
Thanks for the help. And just out of curiosity how many should I be able to put in there without problems?
LP
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You might need to tighten up the clutch plate a little bit. Not too much though. There is an adjustment proceedure in the 650 manual on page 7.
Well its not really even letting the clutch work most of the time, its popping the plate off the drive "t"
Im kinda lost on this one. Looks to me like the drive "T" it too short to engage properly.
I called Dillon and the Tech told me "No the Case feeder will only take 100 rounds of 45........
I kinda think thats silly so I thought I would post here and see.
Oh but I did both tighten and loosen the clutch.
Larry
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OK im not sure if Im doing something wrong or the machine is messed up or what.... Heres the problem.
I just got my 650, got everything set up to load 45 acp and started.... everything is great except the casefeeder will only take 100 - 125 pieces of brass before it bogs down and stops or slips the clutch OR kickes the plate off the drive "T"
Is this correct? I can only put 100+- rounds of brass in there at a time???
I have a friend that had three 650s and he said he thought he used to run 250+ rounds without a problem... but that was a while back so......
I noticed on Dillons site where the 1050 takes 250 - 300 pcs somewhere I thought I saw where they were the same feeder?
SO is something wrong with the feeder or is that the norm?
TIA
LP
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Well,
Just got off the phone with the helper AGAIN...this morning
Interesting conversation where little was said but volumes were spoken.
me "When is he gonna call me?"
Helper "Well I gave him the message. He's been kinda busy but he has your number."
me "so I guess you guys dont think this a big deal?"
Silence
him " I gave him the message"
me "so you see nothing wrong with the work on this gun?"
H " well not really...no"
Me " what does not really mean"
H" NO I dont see anything wrong with it"
me "So you dont mind me showing it off and saying you did it? "
H " Well no I dont "
Me" OK good enough"
Click
Call back about 5 min later
me "So whats YOUR last name? "
H "why do you need MY name"
Me " well you said you have no problem with me showing it off and crediting it to you! "
H " Look I work for XXXX Im NOT getting involved in THIS! "
CLICK
SO
I guess now I know dont I!
__________________
Larry P
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Gun had a broken rail, and messed up beavertail cut. It was ruined before the smith got it. He did a poor job, but unless you were paying as much or more than a new frame would have cost, it was never going to be like new.
Wide45
Uh, Ok I will be nice.
lets address those..
Broken rail.... thats nothing new Call EGW and ask. I did.
George LAUGHED at me... and replied you arent the first one by any means.
TO BE CLEAR HERE EGW DID NOT NOT NOT do this
smiths have been welding the rails to tighten slide to frame fit for years. nothing unusual here. so that one its a no go. yea it woulda been better than new...
So youre wrong there.
to the beavertail... I have ZERO Idea what you are talking about being "messed up" here. nothing and I mean NOTHING was wrong with the beavertail. I asked for it to be welded so a .25 radius beavertail could be fitted. I like the wilson beavertail. Springfield uses an oddball size raduis and you have to use a special beavertail or leave it stock OR have it welded and recut...
something else thats been going on for years. This wasnt work that HAD to be done it was something I WANTED done. If it was beyond his abilities he shoulda said right then and there. If he hadnt touched the beavertail area the frame would still be in good shape.
So youre wrong again.
now.
If you cant do something you tell the guy up front. No harm, no foul.
There was nothing unusual about what I asked him to do, he accepted the job with no hesitation at all. he was sent digital pictures of the frame rails well before I handed the gun to him on a gun range and he said it would be no problem to fix both times. It was In his hands to see and touch. he had ample oportunity to say I cant do this for you.
No sir that dog wont hunt.
OOPS one more thing... he sets his prices not me, so the amount of money agreed to means notta! He agreed to do the job, he agreed to do it for his price. end story.
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Mod note: please don't post the individual/company name or references to them here. That would be "industry hate" and as-such is contrary to BE's rules.
Shred, Ive been on here a long time and you and I have talked on occasion.
I am not aiming this at you or this forum or any other for that matter.. THANK YOU and the 1911 Forum for LEAVING this up. there is one rather big forum that it stayed on for about 20 min before they deleted it.... GONE
I was sent a private message.
PLEASE DO NOT POST THINGS LIKE THIS ON THIS SITE...
So I appeciate the sites that have let it go.
Heres the beef though and as I said its not against this site, Brian, or you, or anyone in particular its just a general observation on my part...
I got a email from a gunsmith today with his phone # attached and "CALL ME"
we talked about this for a while but I was absolutely astonished at one thing he said...
Larry you will be blackballed by everyone in the gunsmithing industry if you keep this up....
HOLY SHIT this is amazing. This guy aint a flyby night smith, in fact hes a member here on this forum. I will bet money that there are several of the members that know him and probably have guns built by him. I personally know 4 ppl that have his guns right now.
everything from carry to full blown race guns. hes had guns featured in magazines.
this work is absolutely unacceptable. And guess what im told...... I SHOULD WALK ON EGG SHELLS.... WTF is up here guys?
If this was zumbo saying something anti gun, by God we can RUIN his life. we'll all stand up and he wont be able to get a job writing freakin want ads for the town paper.
But a well known smith RUINS my gun (Ive been told I may as well by a new frame and probably barrel too because it will be cheaper than fixing that one) and I get......
SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
its not like he put the wrong site on my gun or left a couple tool marks or scratched the finish or charged more than he said he was going to by 50-100$
he RUINED MY GUN.
It really is amazing how the gun industry does things when you think about it.
Guy says he thinks Black rifles are evil - hes SCREWED
Guy Ruins a gun, we try to protect his rep..
Just venting
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now that the 1911 forum seems to be back up...
Heres the links to "the rest of the story"
What do I do now? Gunsmith has gun and I cant get him!
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=161392
Professional?
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=166537
Hope its OK to do that I really dont feel like retyping the whole thing.
Hsmith.... While dumping it is whats gonna end up happening this is no where near being over as far as im concerned. Ive been told by a couple smiths so far that it looks like its time for a new frame at min... because its no feasaable to fix this one.
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Guys I got this back from a well known smith last friday.
there are a couple posts up on the 1911 forum about it in Gunsmithing
you can read the whole story if you like..
one is Professional ?
the other is what to do if a GS wont return your gun
or close..
heres the pictures
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/Shooter45_photo/
Im pretty sick
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forgot..... somebody
Forgot..... Somebody
FORGOT..... SOMEBODY
FORGOT SOMEBODY HELL
YOU forgot ME
Most important in my own mind.....
Congrats Man!
LP
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Has anyone ever sent their application in saying, I'm going to shoot X gun, then having to switch over to Y gun for some valid reason or another? I'm not switching divisions or anything, I just need to shoot another gun than what I initially told them I would shoot. Do I even need to worry about it, or even let HQ know?
Uh.....
WHat ya gonna be shooting big boy?
Inquiring minds STILL want to know
Off list is fine
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If one can neutralize (at least 4 points scoring on the target) the threat targets through tactical sequence while out in the open, I would be more forgiving in assessing a penalty for being exposed.
This is my disconnect with you..
If the CoF says move to cover and engage, you have no "forgiveness" available for shooting in TS while on the move any more than for shooting TP on the move!
If they dont follow the CoF and shoot behind cover TS wont (shouldnt) matter. 3 seconds..... DING!
Maybe I dont understand what you are saying above!
LP
My posts on this subject were all in reference to Phara's snenario that he gave and how he shot it. He said that the course description only said that you were to shoot the targets as they become visible. There was no instruction that all the tagrets had to be shot from cover only. The rule book doesn't say that targets can only be shot from cover. It says that if cover is available it must be used. He did that. He engaged the steel from cover, reloaded from cover, and engaged targets from the second shooting position from cover. I saw nothing in the course descrition that said T1-T3 had to be shot from the cover of the 1st position. Therefore, I would not have given him a FTDR. The course designer may have intended the shooters to shoot them from cover, but he needs to do a better job of writting down what he means, rather than expecting others to read his mind. If a shooter chooses to shoot T1-T3 while on the move and out in the open, I would expect him to definitely be moving and neutralizing targets, or I may assess a procedural penalty, just as I would if the course designer had specifically required in the course description that those 3 targets had to be shot on the move.
Also, 3 targets can be neutralized faster in TS than they can in TP, provided that your one shot on each is at least worth 4 points. Once a target is neutralized, it is no longer a threat, even though it is still going to require a second round for scoring purposes, and to avoid a miss penalty.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
I understood you to be saying that if the shooter had engaged in the open using TS that would be OK but you would PE the guy if he used TO, when the CoF wasnt written that way!
Larry P
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If one can neutralize (at least 4 points scoring on the target) the threat targets through tactical sequence while out in the open, I would be more forgiving in assessing a penalty for being exposed.
This is my disconnect with you..
If the CoF says move to cover and engage, you have no "forgiveness" available for shooting in TS while on the move any more than for shooting TP on the move!
If they dont follow the CoF and shoot behind cover TS wont (shouldnt) matter. 3 seconds..... DING!
Maybe I dont understand what you are saying above!
LP
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Anytime someone gives out a verbal only instruction, we tell them to put it in the course description posted at the stage. It takes what 30 seconds to do that.
Normally thats done at our range. Always for sanctioned matches.
In reality I think this is a non issue at most sanctioned matches.
Mark, I agree but thats life too!
Larry P
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Revolver "Neutral" means that is doenst make it impossible for a BRT to shoot a CoF. Like a Disapearing target that activates after round 5 and requires 3 to neutralize and is gone in 1.5 seconds.
I agree with this.
They DONT compete against the Slab Sides!
I DO!!!! LOL
Bill Nesbitt
Bill,
Maybe I should have said Slab sides dont compete against THEM (BRTS)
Cause I agree with you, I do too when I shoot a BRT.
BUT they dont shoot against the BRTs....
BTW you dont shoot a BRT you shoot a MRT! medium!
later!
LP
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If one can neutralize (at least 4 points scoring on the target) the threat targets through tactical sequence while out in the open, I would be more forgiving in assessing a penalty for being exposed.
Thats the point, if it doesnt CALL for TS then it has no bearing on the CoF,
None, your idea of it being "tactically correct" or "what should be done" doesnt matter!
Larry P
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"(IE if the SO tells you, you must shoot TS and it doesnt say it on the CoF.... or Visa Versa, YOU BETTER DO IT)"
Larrys1911
If it isn't in writing in the stage instructions , an SO cannot penalize you for disobeying his verbal instruction.
For the sake of the game , a competitor can always default to Tactical Priority and stay within the rules - unless directed otherwise.
Mark
Mark,
I agree with you in theory/principle but in reality if the SO gives you instructions that are contrary to the CoF description its best to ask, easier on everyone.
Larry P
Edited: There may be safety reasons or something else that have caused things to change too. and maybe teh CoF hasnt been changed to reflect that yet...its in the works or something or maybe foregotten.
Just better to ask and follow what the SO Says. Just like Matt says ask the SO what he wants you to do and then do it!
If you dont do what everyone else has been told to do and done then the SO/MD has two options..
1 let it go and let you have a possible advantage. Thereby ruining it for everyone
2 Give you a penalty and tell you well you should have listened to me.
Guess which one will normally get done!
LP
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Just a point of fact here.
I keep seeing references to shooting stages (here and in other forums) that IMPLY you must shoot Tac Seq if you are in the open or exposed to more than one tgt at once.
SO, I would like to point out that Tactical SEQUENCE (everyone gets firsts before they get seconds IE 1,1,2,1,1 ) is NOT required by the rules in ANY senario without it being directly required by the SO and/or CoF (IE if the SO tells you, you must shoot TS and it doesnt say it on the CoF.... or Visa Versa, YOU BETTER DO IT)
I have heard people say if you shoot OVER a car you MUST engage TS, if you shoot around a car you MUST shoot TP. Fine if its in the CoF, If it says you may engage around or over and nothing else and the SO doesnt tell you different.... TS is NOT required no matter how you shoot it!
Just wanted to Clear that up for everyone.
Larry P
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Sounds to me like the COF was not "6 shot revolver neutral" either.
WRONG!
Anyone shooting a "big round thang" should be competitive with the autoloaders (and not just the other revolvers) on a properly configured COFWRONG AGAIN
Revolver "Neutral" means that is doenst make it impossible for a BRT to shoot a CoF. Like a Disapearing target that activates after round 5 and requires 3 to neutralize and is gone in 1.5 seconds.
THAT is NOT revolver Neutral.
Having them do a reload that no one shooting an auto will have to do is just fine!
They DONT compete against the Slab Sides!
Larry P
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LMAO Eric.
Getting 125 miles to the range and taking the wife not to mention three kids, one of them 7months old..........
Hmm be a nice ride to the range and back but thats about it!
Larry P
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Ok,
Everyone knows the BEST way to improve is to LF Shoot AND Dryfire.
No question there
I can get to the range MAYBE 2 a month and those are the days I am shooting matches.
At 5PM best case I am over 125 miles from the range.
And do to the logistics of children the chances that I would have even if closer are RARE!
SO what should I be doing?
Should I burn rounds in practice after the match? Ive done that for a while and I dont think it helps much.....So...........
Larry P
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What's a 5.11's & why do I need a pair of 5.11's for either IDPA or USPSA??
You dont
1) I thought USPSA specifically discouraged "tactical" wear in the rule book. They did not limit the rule to just camo gear. Cop gear should also be off limits for our game. Is this not a game? Did we not do away w/ the LEO scoring category anyway? (sorry Phil!)Curious here, this is a thread about what to wear in a IDPA match!
WTF does what USPSA does have to do with it?
Just wondering!
2) I though IDPA was supposed to be about CCW practice while wearing "street wear". If you are an LEO who is issued 5.11's, that's great, but how many LEOs finish their shift & change out of their duty pants INTO ANOTHER PAIR OF DUTY PANTS?!?! Please. This has turned into a game of cop wannabe dress-up. Might as well go shoot Cowboy Action if we are all going to play dress up.Last I heard Cargo pants are IN as "street wear" If you dont think they are get out more. have your sig. other take you shopping! 5.11s look like Cargo pants to me.
Everyone in retail clothing sells them. And last but not least I dont, and most others dont "want" to be cops....
Seems to me the thing to wear in IDPA is a pair of GAP jeans (Levi is anti-gun) & an untucked polo type shirt. Don't most of us carry that way? I do.Then wear your GAP jeans and an untucked polo by all means and be happy.
But dont tell me that I should because you do, OK!
(I dont like GAP jeans and I dont KNOW they are not anti gun)
C. (I do not own or wear a vest).
your point? You want an animal cookie or what?
There are many flavors of Ice Cream because not everyone likes vanilla. The same goes for everything else in life. Wear what you want an be happy but if someone else likes something else thats their business and you shouldnt look down on them for it.
Larry P
I REALLY dislike the Fashion Police!
Im fighting buying Royal Robbins ANYTHING simply because its become a "fashion statement". I didnt like it in High School with Polo and Izod and I dont like it anymore now than I did then! Its really gonna hurt when I break down and buy a vest! DANGIT!
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First. all i can say is .7 to head shot at 7 yds... holy crap thats quick.
Aint it though, No doubt its on demand too.
would you try to play basketball by football rules. a similar assumption could be made you wanting to play IDPA by USPSA rules.AMEN
Larry P
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Please tell me you are joking about an article on pants! I can see an article on concealment garments because this is technically part of your IDPA competition gear, but pants? I would hope that people are not concerned enough about their pants that they need to read an article in the Tactical Journal for guidance. What's next IDPA approved and recommended shirts, socks, watches...????
Vincent,
501 Levis seem to be about .1 faster on a RWR than anything else I have tried.
I bought 10 different pants and 10 cover garments (the only thing I really noticed about the shirts was they need to be tight to the body...) anyway I found that just plain old levi 501s are .1 faster on the RWR, however I also found that they move the loops around some and that changes the postion of the holster and mag pouches some. The movement of the equiptment sometimes negates the advantage of the .1 RWR improvement....
SO Now I am not sure what to wear! What to do... what to do
THink its legal to remove and resew the loops?
Larry P
BTW man I Take my watch off to shoot.
I shoot Commando because the chafing really helps me into those WEIRD shooting positions. And my socks are of the "wicking" kind "athletes foot" ya know!
650 case feeder ?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
OK I took some measurements. From what I can tell I have about .148 engagement on the "Drive T" into the clutch.
I measure the roll pin at .130 so that leaves about .018
SO Im thinking the plate is just barely engaged on the drive because there is a radius on the clutch engagement surface....
Measuring from the top of the plate to the bowl is about .214 - .220
Larry