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esskay

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Posts posted by esskay

  1. Nice website! Just a quick suggestion ... your description of the 180 rule which relates it to where the shooter is facing -- might want to clarify that it is not relative to the shooter, i.e. you can't turn 90 degrees to your right and then think of the 180 from that point and sweep your muzzle uprange.

  2. I have the regular TA-11 (donut) and like it a lot. I got the front lens cover that turns it into an occulated sight for close targets.

    What does the cover do? Does it make the site 1X somehow? I don't know what an occulated site is...

    with both eyes open, and the cover over the lens, the dot is still illuminated and is superimposed on your target.

    Can anyone clarify more how this works? I guess I cannot picture it?

    The cover blacks out the magnified image that you would normally see through the optic via your right eye, however the illuminated reticle remains in view. Your left eye picks up the full field of view as you would normally see (i.e. unmagnified). So the idea of the cover is to lessen the confusion from seeing a magnified image (right eye through optic) as well as an unmagnified image (left eye by itself), but your right eye still picks up the illuminated reticle and so it appears to be superimposed over the target, allowing you to aim.

    Using a cover might be a drag on stages where you need to shoot both short range and long range targets, so it still behooves you to practice shooting close range with or without a cover.

  3. I have a Spikes 9mm upper and the Spikes adjustable block in a regular 5.56 lower. Took some adjusting but it runs well now with C-Products & Metalform mags -- cycles reliably and locks back... with brass cased ammo. I could not get it to run reliably with CCI aluminum blazer.

    FYI, I bought the complete upper from Spikes, I had them build it with a JP/VTAC rifle length handguard to maintain consistency with my 3-gun build. It's an awesome upper.

    My buddy has one with a Hahn dedicated block that we built at the same time. Had to bend the ejector and do other tweaking but it also eventually runs too. Had to play with the buffer to get it to lock back reliably (shaved a little bit of material off of the bumper).

  4. ^^^ Yup, prices are on Springer's web site. I believe usual turn around is about 5-6 weeks, mine took a little longer because of some delays at IonBond.

    ETA: Such lame research on my end, I didn't realize there were other color options besides Black... those are neat colors (FDE & Copper). But in any case, black is appropriate for this blaster! :)

  5. I have a Surefire X300 I can put on the rail of my Nordic barrel clamp.

    This is exactly what I do, works great for the occasional night match.

    I like it because it is nice and low profile so I don't have to worry about snagging it on a port or some other such thing.

    Agreed, plus it has tremendous light output. Of course my M2 is a competition gun and I don't use it for defensive purposes... but if I did the X300 on a Nordic rail would work really great with the XT07 pressure switch which you could secure to the foreend (the rail puts the light a little far forward for me to work the light switch directly). For a match where I don't care about light discipline, I just reach out and turn it on/leave it on for the duration of the stage.

  6. Ionbond doesn't prevent corrosion, so applying some form of protectant is a good idea.

    The coating absorbs oil, so it will prevent corrosion very, very well, if you keep it looking black. If it loses the dark color, it can use some oil. If you see standing oil, it is more than you need. I'm anti-slather, as standing lubricant just collects crap.

    Thanks for the feedback, I got voice mail when I called and was too impatient to try back so just posted up here... ;) I suppose I had a bad experience with some rust developing while not paying attention so I've gone a bit overboard the other direction coating everything everywhere on my guns with CLP! This was actually the main impetus for getting this pistol coated, to make sure it would be protected.

    Will follow your guidelines and just give it a light coat of CLP for my peace of mind. :)

    Posted pic above, it turned out extra EVIL! :D

  7. Pics Pics Pics Pics....

    I wanna see the new ION Bond finish...what color did you get?

    My understanding is that you can get any color you want so long as it is BLACK! LOL

    By popular demand, I give you <Dr Evil voice> an Eeeeviiiiilll Limited gun!

    The matte black plus the tacticool light rail make this thing look totally evil in a bad ass sort of way! :)

    jvdstiionbond.jpg

  8. I haven't used them with a rifle, I have no doubt they or a slug would ruin them.

    They HAVE taken hits with some VERY heavy/hot magnum pistol rounds with no ill effect, maybe they glanced off. I think the fact that they give a lot helps. I keep expecting them to kink or fold over one day but so far they haven't. ;)

    Hey Cas, thanks again for the great idea. I picked one up to test out and we took it to the range yesterday. Put a 10" AR500 circle on it and it was bowing underneath the weight but held up all day. The stakes are not pointed so it's kind of a pain to set them, we pounded pilot holes with a screwdriver & hammer we happened to have in the truck... that worked fine. Shot it with both 9mm pistol and 5.56 and it did hold up under the impacts. It actually would start bobbing around especially after getting hit by rifle, which was a nice unintentional "feature"! :) At the end of the day, the hook part took a lot of scraping from the steel plate but was OK. The rod is actually very thin which makes it a tougher target to hit! There was one direct hit on the hook (not sure if was rifle or pistol, guessing 9mm) but it was a glancing blow and did not seem to damage much other than the cheap coating on the hook! At $8/ea in my local Lowes this is a no brainer purchase, even as a disposable target stand that will need to be replaced consistently it's a great deal. Most importantly it's very easy to store & transport, which is important since I don't have room to store large target stands.

    Thanks again, these things are genius!!

  9. Just got my limited gun back from IonBonding through Springer and it looks truly EVIL. :D

    Question -- it's pristine now as you would imagine, and Springer lubricated it with some grease/etc in the usual spots. Normally after cleaning my guns I slather CLP pretty much everywhere before putting lubricant on the usual spots, any suggestions on whether I should do this again before taking the gun out or is it not necessary now with the IonBond wundercoating? Thanks!

  10. My multi purpose targets... last thing I shot them with was the shotgun so it's relevant. ;)

    8 & 10 inch plates from Artntzen and $9 shepherds hooks from Lowes.

    Plates.jpg

    Thanks for sharing. I went by Lowes yesterday to check out the Shepherds hooks, they had various heights but the hooks look like just one errant shot will destroy them. How well do they hold up for you with bird shot, pistol, rifle?

  11. Nice rifle, what is that small item on your top rail?

    Me thinks that's a sling mount for a QD type sling. Looks like he's got a MI(?) rear sling mount at the base of the receiver extension.

    Thanks, figured it out, I think it's the new VTAC low profile sling mount.

  12. You may notice that the JP/VTAC handguards are very popular amongst 3-gunners. I have 2 uppers with them and love them. I don't hang anything on my rifle for matches (except a light for night matches) so it keeps them lean & light. Makes it easy to attach to barricades and nice & slim for dealing with ports/etc. I will on occasion sling up, so I do have a small piece of pic rail for my sling mount.

  13. I think somebody on the Noveske team runs a 17" barreled gun with rifle gas. I've heard of 16s but you don't see many of them and I don't know who makes them. I know my JP 18" ultra light is lighter than most 16s.

    What sort of profile do you have on your JP 18" ultra light barrel? Was it a custom order? The JP site only shows a medium profile available in 18":

    .650 under handguard/.875 in front of gas block

    Thanks!

  14. Have you thought about using a Knox Stock?

    I'd echo this too. Having run both, I do prefer a youth stock on my 870 for defensive use. However, the Knoxx stock really does cut down perceived recoil and I could shoot full power loads all day long with that stock -- if you shoot really light bird loads (or blanks) they should be even more manageable.

    Downside of course is that you're learning TTPs/etc in a combat shotgun course like that, and so you'd ideally run the exact configuration that you will deploy with to get the most out of the class...

  15. Ok, this might be a stupid question, but here goes anyway.

    How hard would it be to adapt the Man Mountain shell holders to use TekLok instead of the belt loops that come on them?

    I like Tekloks, however one of the advantages of the slim Man Mtn loops are that they do not block much of the Velcro on CR Speed type belt systems. This is a benefit when you have 5 or 6 shotshell carriers all in a row on your belt.

  16. I've been running the Magpul BAD and I think it's money well spent for me.

    The Magpul BAD has a little bit of play in it compared with the Phase 5 version that has the bolt release built into it.

    Have three different types, the Magpul BAD, the Phase 5 and the tango 5 (no longer made). I like the Magpul BAD the best in terms of shape, position, and profile of the lever - so it is my first choice where possible. However, the Phase5 one-piece lever works with all of my uppers, whereas the Magpul BAD is not compatible with billet uppers - so I use the Phase5 for those configurations. The Phase5 is a solid piece of kit, I do like it a lot, just prefer the positioning of the Magpul BAD. I would echo that the BAD does have some play in it even after you clamp it down.

  17. If I were to guess the weight I would say it may be a couple of ounces lighter as they shortened the tube about an inch and a half.

    As far as how the reticle looks I have not seen a pic yet. But if you can imagine the original reticle with 3 vertical dots repacing the 6'oclock bar. They appeared to be equidistant from one and other and the spacing appeared to be the same length as the original vertical bar. No other changes.

    Thanks for the feedback. Question though -- you noted dots for the holdovers, Wakal earlier mentioned chevrons (point up) -- are there more than one version or prototypes for the new Meopta?

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