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FLL1911

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Posts posted by FLL1911

  1. It is very clear to me that in this situation only one procedural penalty, not 4 should be scored.

    10.2.3 – It states clearly the limit of penalties, which is the maximum of available scoring hits – just one (forget the example, if the example does not fit this case, it does not mean that different situations do not apply)

    10.2.4 – It states that multiple penalties should be applied for not reloading. It does not say that the limit does not apply, and it cannot be implied by the rule text.

    Since 10.2.3 and 10.2.4 are under the same item (10.2), they should be read as complementary, not exclusive of each other.

    I wish the rule book would list the examples apart from the rule text.

  2. The double disk is for larger amount of powder, typically for rifle calibers, that cannot be obtained by a single disk.

    Several years ago I tried to use the charge bar when I started reloading 45 ACP with Unique. It measured so inconsistently that I ended up with a squib and a ring in the barrel (the barrel had to be replaced). I dumped the full batch of ammo and retired the charge bar - I never used it again.

  3. At the time I was using Bear Creek, Precision and Materblaster moly bullets, I used to clean my 1911 and STI with kerosene (a very good, inexpensive solvent and degreaser) and a toothbrush for the exterior, and a cleaning patch inside the barrel, until it came almost clean (it comes light gray). Then Hoppe’s #9 inside the barrel for a few minutes. Cleaning patches after that – worked pretty well.

    P.S. kerosene is safe for any gun and it does not evaporate like mineral spirits, which in most cases can be used as gun cleaning and degreaser substitute, but I never use it to cleaning after moly bullets. You can get kerosene at Lowe’s.

  4. I have use Zero and now I use MG only (now 200 gr) - both are very good. The only reason I switched from Zero to MG was that MG was never in back order (good times). Have you tried 200 gr yet. I do not know how you will be using the loads, but 200 gr usually produces a faster recoil, compared to 230 gr, bringing the front sight back faster, but nothing wrong with 230 gr.

  5. 0.180", actual measurement from of the removed front sight. My SA Loaded came with a fixed rear sight which I replaced with the adjustable LPA sight (available from SA), and then I replaced the front sight with a Dawson 090 x 180 P/N 020-022. I prefer the .090" wide over the .100". The original SA front sight is .125" wide.

    http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDeta...0000-1094593469

    P.S. the front sight measurement is from the top to the base parallel to the slide, not the full height of the sight.

  6. Hmmm. Never heard of this. Does it really work :)

    Actually, it does.

    I do not see how cleaning the barrel could be considered firearm or component modification. I can't believe a RO would even consider 10.6 - this is not realistic.

    Oil in fact could decrease PF, as it could create a film along the barrel, decreasing the barrel diameter for a very tiny fraction of a inch. The difference more likely would be discarded since the the PF calculation is truncated to whole integer (eg. 164.99 PF becomes 164 PF). You can clean and lube your barrel as many times you want during the match, before and after the match.

    We aren't talking about cleaning the barrel. Simply oiling the inside of the barrel for the purpose of increasing the velocity of the next few rounds.

    Same thing, part of the same process. No one can tells whether or not someone that puts oil in the barrel is not cleaning it - no RO will be able to sustain it.

  7. I do not see how cleaning the barrel could be considered firearm or component modification. I can't believe a RO would even consider 10.6 - this is not realistic.

    Oil in fact could decrease PF, as it could create a film along the barrel, decreasing the barrel diameter for a very tiny fraction of a inch. The difference more likely would be discarded since the the PF calculation is truncated to whole integer (eg. 164.99 PF becomes 164 PF). You can clean and lube your barrel as many times you want during the match, before and after the match.

  8. I got a reply back from Rescomp:

    RESCOMP Handgun Technologies cc

    June 1, 2009

    Setup for Versa Pouch for 1911 Single Stack Magazines

    Please Note:

    The Versa Magazine Pouch is delivered as standard with a Hi capacity setup for STI, SV and Para Ordnance Pistols.

    To convert the mag Pouch to 1911 Single Stack use, Refer to the Versa magazine pouch instruction sheet supplied for the illustration key.

    Please do the following:

    1. Undo the – button head screw {no 5}, and then remove STI, Para, and Bul insert {No 4}.

    2. Install either Glock or Beretta insert {No.1 or No 2} in its place, insuring that the insert “L” Section is in the uppermost position.

    3. Additionally, ensure that the “L” section of the insert is facing inwardly towards the magazine pouch cavity.

    4. Lightly Tighten the Button the head screw, ensuring that you have the correct pouch angle that suits you.

    Please see the attached picture for the assembled view.

    I do not have a place to post the image and link it here, but it is the same image mentioned in a prior reply: http://shootersconnectionstore.com/Single-...ation-P199.aspx

    I haven't tried it yet.

  9. For the distances we shoot for pistols, there will be no significant accuracy difference regarding low or even slightly large SD. What counts is how much you have to increase your loads to make the PF for major or minor, whatever division you are shooting. Two factors influence SD the most: Powder dispenser and chamber sealing.

    Some powders flow more consistent than another and how the press shakes during reloading also changes the amount of powder dispensed. Measuring by weight is more accurate than by volume, but although practical for chrono loads, it is impractical for volume loading.

    45 ACP is a relatively mild load, and blow by is not uncommon, depending of the powder and charge being used. Increasing in pressure is the way to avoid gas leakage. Most of the time it can be noticed by either measuring the external diameter of the ejected case and/or checking for powder burns on the outside case.

  10. I'll take a dissenting view --- until George or Troy smack me.....

    Who's responsible for controlling the gun? The shooter, right? That's the underlying principle of the safety rules, right? Who chose the holster? Who chose to apply/not apply/not apply tightly enough whatever locking device the holster may or may not have had?

    Now, I realize that the situation sucks for all concerned --- but a loaded gun ended up on the ground. Clearly we care about that. But accident, carelessness, or interference aside, that's a match DQ for the shooter......

    Unquestionably not the "voice of reason"

  11. Kerosene.

    Cheap, does not evaporate like odorless mineral spirits, safe for all metals and most of syntactic parts, and non-toxic. It has been my all around cleaner / degreaser / solvent for decades. At Lowe’s for about $7-$8 / gallon. For copper removal a use Hoppes #9, but I do not let it stay for long before cleaning.

    The other things, I use are WD-40 for “pressure cleaning” shotgun action and inside the barrel (too big to soak in Kerosene), and Break-Free LP and CLP. There are other very good products out there, but I got used with these 4 items. They are not expensive, easy to find, safe for indoor use and they are all around cleaning / lubing solution for my handguns, rifles and shotguns.

  12. I see a point for the RO advising the shooter of the associated risks of inserting a magazine in a holstered gun, as long it is done BEFORE the “Make Ready” or AFTER the “Range is Clear”. Since it is not in the rules, only official statements should be given during the COF. Shooter should take is as a comment from a fellow shooter, not as a RO advise. It is not a matter whether or not it makes sense; it just is not in the rules.

  13. Check this new die out by Redding

    G-Rx push thru

    :cheers:

    I just don't see how this $48 part is any better than a $14 Lee FCD and a $15 Lee Sizer kit, both of which have other things you can use them for.

    Hmm $48 for a single purpose item or $29 for two different things that have multiple uses . . . . .

    They're not the same thing at all ... the G-Rx sizes the entire case, it doesn't leave that 1/4-1/2" at the base unsized like all other dies.

    The best answer for me is to not shoot .40 out of a Glock :roflol:

    Do you mean when using the Lee FCD as originally designed or like this

    , more more like the G-Rx? I think the G-Rx is a steel only die while the Lee FCD has a carbide insert.
  14. ...

    In my experience- .40 brass is by far the most finicky when chamber checking the cases... even if they aren't Glock'd brass. I have more .40 brass that doesn't chamber check with regular dies. I usually use the U die now.. but may use a regular Hornady die and use the G-Rx as back up. ;)

    I do not chamber check my reloads, ever (I am so lazy - I only check for high primers). As mentioned before, it always come right when using Lee dies. I do not have experience with other dies manufacturers, but I have seen fat cases from different fellow shooters using Dillon resizer dies.

    Before buying additional equipment have you considered trying the Lee resizer and the Lee FCD? Probable it will be less expensive, but more important (for me), it will save me time by eliminating an additional reloading step preparing the cases.

    My 2 cents.

  15. I have been reloading Glocked cases for 2 years now for my STI (KKM barrel) without a single fat case. I do use Lee die set and I finish it with the Lee Factory Crimp Die. In my experience, the Lee standard resize (not the U-die) is enough to solve the bulge case base. The Lee FCD will resize the full case again after the bullet has been seated. It fixes any excessive case mount belling.

  16. I do my 40 cal reloading with 100% Glocked cases that come straight from a local police range, and I never had to consider any additional step in the process other than using the Lee dies set with the Lee Factory Crimp die at the end of the reloading (Dillon 650). I am using these cases for about 2 years now and I never had a single hiccup with my STI Limited or CZ TS.

    If you want DIY solution, check this out:

    Here is the way I see it.

    1) A std resizing die sometimes will not resize the case properly as the "buldge" may be low on the case.

    2) The U-Die does a better job and makes the brass tighter except at the bottom of the case.

    3) Factory crimp die does size all the way down either

    This die sizes the entire case!!

    In my experience (which does not cover everything about Glocked cases), the Lee standard resizing is enough.

    I do not use the U-die, and I do have restrictions in doing so. In my opinion the U-size (40 cal) is more a solution for a tight chamber than for Glocked cases, and the samples I have seem constricted the case too much, then it is stretched by the bullet diameter creating almost a step near the case base. With continuous reloading with the same case there is a possibility of metal failure at this point (case separation). My gun has a KKM barrel, and it does not need U-resizing die - your mileage my vary.

    I use the Lee FCD more to resize the top of the case, and give a gentle crimp. It does not seem to resize the base of the case any further.

    I have read reports that Glock, without much advertisement, has been, or had changed the amount of the unsupported barrel in all model, which would contributed to current Glocked cases not having a huge bulge like some years ago. Can someone confirm this?

  17. I do my 40 cal reloading with 100% Glocked cases that come straight from a local police range, and I never had to consider any additional step in the process other than using the Lee dies set with the Lee Factory Crimp die at the end of the reloading (Dillon 650). I am using these cases for about 2 years now and I never had a single hiccup with my STI Limited or CZ TS.

    If you want DIY solution, check this out:

  18. Saul Kirsch Master Class I & II is highly recommended. Saul covers all fundamentals of IPSC / USPSA shooting. There is a 3rd DVD with the Master Class series that covers mental conditioning, also pretty good. I am not aware of Matt Burkett's videos, so I cannot comment on that. In my opinion, the 3M DVD (2 DVDs - I only watched the 1st one) are something after you have watched the Master Class. It also covers some fundamentals, but not as detailed as showed in MC I&II - more like "I do this way... and they show it - from the 3 GMs.

    http://czcustom.com/Master-Class-Series.aspx

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