bobobooie
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Posts posted by bobobooie
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I was using a CRSpeed WSMII, borrowed from a friend, and did not do any mods to it. Just adjusted it as best as possible. I had the gun fall out once, right into the pumice/sand at the range. Luckily not loaded and not during a match, but I had to transport it back home without racking the slide to check if it was empty. I really can't recommend the CR Speed after that incident, and am currently looking for another holster.
Thanks for that information. I must admit I'm shying away from the CR Speed for this particulat handgun. Let me know what you decide on,
And to all the responses, thank you very much. I am very appreciative of the advice and the experiences.
Paul
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Thanks guys. That helps a bunch.
Paul
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I copied this from Grauffels web-site. I do not own a CR Speed holster and have no idea what this means.
Is this doable? Is it necessary? I am on the verge of buying a holster for my new Limited and like the supported muzzle design. I have searched here and on others forums, and while I have found a lot of info about holsters and preferences, the info does not discuss set-up. I even looked for a photo "how to" on this info to better help me visualize what I may be getting into. Has anyone done this mod and can you shed some light on it? Like CR Speed Set-Up for Dummies. I thought I'd ask before I pluck down the money.
thanks so much
Paul
[i]How do I get my CR Speed holster to fit the L.C.?
A. the problem is that the trigger retention bar, does not have the right lengths to match the Tanfoglio Frame and trigger. You need to take the "D" marked trigger bar and then drop it down towards the barrel end, about 1/4 of an inch.
The best way to do this is to extend the channel the bar sits in, about 1/4 lower using a knife/chisel Once that is done, you need to drill a second hole so that the existing screw has a place to secure the bar into the holster. CAREFUL.. this is a tricky procedure, and I had to play with mine a lot to get it to work properly[/i]
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Henning has been running a Blade-Tech or a G-Code at the nationals. You could check those out.
Leo
Thanks Leo. I'll most likely go the Blade tech route. I used one for L10 and now SS and like them a lot. I do like the supported muzzle end of the CR in a more racey type of holster. The Sickinger speed holster looks interesting as well, but so far I don't know where to get one to check out. The main thing is the gun and the mags are all good. I do not mean to drift into holsters, but do appreciate all the info I have received on both my questions and now holsters.
Paul
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"On 3 of the 4- 21rd mags I was only able to seat 18 rds. The 4th let me get to 20, but nose dived the top round when seated from slide lock. At 19 rds it worked just fine. Should I leave the mags alone for now and let the springs take a seat? I watched Hennings video on loading the mags with a little bang here and there in order to position the rounds and spring. Maybe I did it wrong and will try again. Hoping that you can save me some frustration."
I think the spring will take a while to set for you to be able to get 21. I find it hard to get 20 in sometimes. That is when I break the mag down and run a silicon brush through it. seems to help.
Also are you reloading or use factory ammo? If reloading are you using the egw undersized sizing die. I know the "glock bulge" had caused a problem with my rounds.
Matt
Got it today! Got in 20rds in all 4 and no problems feeding. I did take apart all the mags and cleaned them out. I do use the EGW sizing die on my RL550 and am very happy with it. A little harder tap starting with #10 and each round thereafter, seemed to do the trick for me.
I removed a small portion of the magazine catch that extends into the frame well and put a radius on it. Once I could see where the mags were getting contact, it made it easy. All mags drop free now, empty or full, and they are much easier to seat. I polished the heck out of it also. I'm happy with it.
Another 250 rds through it. That includes 100 rds of 175 SWC lead. It ate them up! I love this gun. I did install Hennings x-long firing pin and removed the firing pin safety.
Thanks all for the words of advice. I am indeed a happy camper. Now the search for a holster...
Paul
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I did push in the mag release and through the mag opening I could not see any part of it that stuck out. I'll try again and use a marker.
The only thing that caught my eye earlier was a small step in the upper portion of the frame's mag opening, just below the trigger bar. There is a line of casting there.
The grips are the factory wood grips. Thanks all for the responses. If I find it I'll post the cure here. Thanks again.
Paul
If you remove the mag release entirely, will the mags still stick?
Dunno. That might prove to be a smart move. Gonna mark things up and see what shows scraping first.
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I assume the gun is a .40? Sounds like it is.
Anyway, I got one of Hennings extended mags for my Elite Match in .40.
The mag tube is a 10mm. This means that the dimensions are maxed out front to back and makes the tolerances very tight in the mag catch area.
The reason for the 10mm tube is that some .40 mags come with a spacer and some do not, whereas 10mm mags come just one way. the 10mm mags also allow you to load out longer (as do the "non-spacer" .40 mags), but I digress.
When I got the mag from Henning, it was tight to push in and would not drop free. Got on the phone to Henning before I started cutting anything. Here is what you want to do;
Take the slide off the gun and remove the grip panels so you can see what you are doing.
Look through the bottom of the mag well and press the mag catch in. You will see a small pice of the mag catch that is not flush with the frame. That tiny piece that is sticking out is what is causing the friction and grabbing on the mag.
If you have a dremmel, you can vey carefully grind away at the corner that sticks out. Go slow! Check for fit frequently. You don't have to remove much - just make the entire mag catch, WHEN DEPRESSED flush with the inside of the frame.
You will find that once you start, the mag will get looser and easier to remove from the gun, until eventually, it will drop free like the rest of your mags.
Hope that helps.
Yes, it's a .40. The factory mag is a .40 without the spacer. The factory mag came with the aluminum mag pad, but was switched to Grams guts and the Henning 140 pad. That mag and all 4 Henning mags are tight to push in. Only the factory mag drops free. I'm gonna take the top end off and the grips and check it out again. I did push in the mag release and through the mag opening I could not see any part of it that stuck out. I'll try again and use a marker.
The only thing that caught my eye earlier was a small step in the upper portion of the frame's mag opening, just below the trigger bar. There is a line of casting there.
The grips are the factory wood grips. Thanks all for the responses. If I find it I'll post the cure here. Thanks again.
Paul
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Are the mags not dropping free just when they are empty? Mine wouldn't sometimes with the Henning mags until I put the EGW slide stop in. Work perfect now. The other thing I would look at is to see if for some reason the basepad of the mag is hitting the frame. This happened on my CZ. I could get the mag to seat with a, uh, vigorous insertion but then the mag was wedged in and wouldn't drop.
The cuts in the frame are supposed to be there.
Great gun, glad you enjoy yours
Thanks Neomet. The mags are scraping something but will lock into place. It seems to be up toward the mag catch or higher. The stock mag does it too, but not as bad. The stock mag drops free when the release is pushed. The new 21 rounders do not. All four of them.They drop a half inch or so and I yank them out like I used to do to a Glock. The rubbing occurrs before the mag pad even comes close to the frame. This is with empty or full mags. Not too concerned about it yet, just hoping to see if anyone might have a similiar experience and was able to fix it. The EGW slide stop is on the list of must have items. Thanks again.
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Holy crap, what an awesome handgun!I picked it up on Friday. Cleaned it out and lubed it up and headed to the range this morning. Put the 10# recoil spring in, Hennings x-long firing pin and fired 300 rds through it.
The grip shape had to been patterned with my hand in mind. It just flat feels better than any handgun I have ever held. The controls are where I would want them and of the proper size and configuration. After shooting it I am so tempted to ignore single stack for the rest of the year and get going in Limited. I was shooting Precision Delta 180s with TG at 1.16 OAL. It ran them like a sewing machine. They are my SS load and I'll play around later on with other combinations.
Questions.
The 21 rd mags (Henning mags) that I purchased will not drop free and are hard to seat. I did a search on this forum and looked for a part of the mag release that protrudes into the frame in order to file it down. I can't find it. I looked for the burrs or tabs on the mag well that extend into the frame also. I can't for the life of me find it. What I did see is near the top of the frame just below the trigger bar where there is a small lip above the frames magazine opening. Is this it? Can someone please point me to where I should be looking?
On 3 of the 4- 21rd mags I was only able to seat 18 rds. The 4th let me get to 20, but nose dived the top round when seated from slide lock. At 19 rds it worked just fine. Should I leave the mags alone for now and let the springs take a seat? I watched Hennings video on loading the mags with a little bang here and there in order to position the rounds and spring. Maybe I did it wrong and will try again. Hoping that you can save me some frustration.
The last question is about the small cuts in the frame that extend from the mag catch hole (on either side) into the mag area of the frame. The grips cover this slot. Is this supposed to be there?
thank you very much,
Paul
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Clays and 220 lead is silly soft shooting, got my 220's from Jim Stinar at SNS.
200 jacketed and Clays is really nice too.
"SNS"?, please extrapolate.
Ron
S&S Casting
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The Softest and I mean the softest shooting major load for 40 ,if the softest is what your looking for and you will have to be the judge of tracking, accuaracy and all that stuff. like springing the gun for it and all that stuff.........get some 220's Moly or Lead Truncated Cones start with about 4.0 grns of WST and load at 1.190 or longer it makes major and IS THE SOFTEST. oh and about unpredictable--- with Clays be carefull....but never had any probs with WST.
+1. For me it's 220gr S&S lead bullet with 3.5 WST at 1.2 OAL. Soft, soft, soft. In my STI SS and my chrono it computes to a 170pf. I run a 12.5 recoil spring (no buff) and a 17lb mainspring (YRMV). You asked for soft. This is really really soft.
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where do you get jim's bullets?
Harmon
S&S Casting. He advertises in the USPSA web site's classified ads. Latest ad also has the newest price info.
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This thread got me to thinking. I already shoot and love Jim Stinar's 175 gr SWC over WST. It has been a very accurate and soft shooting load.
So I popped for some of the 220gr and after three tries have settled on the most awesome load I've tried yet. HSMITH said they were really soft shooting. Hah! It's stupid soft. I don't think the front sight moves, just sorta twitches a bit. 3.5 gr of WST at 1.2 OAL had an average of 775fps with an average deviation of 3.4 after 10 rounds were chronographed.
If I didn't feel it myself, I woulda sworn it was impossible. My math has it at 170PF out of my 5" STI SS (Sentinel). This will now be my local match load. Thank you HSMITH for getting me to consider this bullet and of course, Jim Stinar for a quality product.
Paul
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Thanks a bunch. That helps a lot.
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I have a question for the masses. I currently use WST powder for my .40 lead loads. I am aware of the reverse temp sensitivity and am very pleased with it thus far. I have done hours of research here and while I see WSF being mentioned, I have yet to see WST and WSF discussed together. I like to experiment, but before I buy some WSF to try I thought I'd ask.
1. What are the differences between the two?
2. Is one better for lead/jacketed than the other?
3. For you and your gun, was one more accurate than the other with the same bullet?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts you can share.
Paul
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Forester, I do beleive I shot on the same squad with you very recently. I enjoyed the experience and appreciated your information on the Cobra mags after my brand XXX stuck in my gun!
What I saw was your friendly disposition, great attitude, and real good shooting skills. If it were me and I shot like you, I'd become a Master with what I currently shoot. But with your dedication you'll be a master with anything you choose.
Guess what I'm trying to say is wether you go for it or not, just have fun and enjoy regardless. You've got the skills needed and the attitude to be successful regardless of the division.
Just my .02.
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+1 on MasterCast. Mike in Illinois is a great guy and the quality of the product is very good. The last order I placed was lost in shipment and Mike had another order to me in 2 days. Great customer service for sure. His 180gr .40 bullets are pretty darn good, as is the 200 gr SWC for my .45.
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Clean it up well and make sure it is bone dry. It is sticking and then slipping most likely, and when it slips it will fling the primer every time.
Ditto for me. I think I read it here and took some 600 sandpaper and polished the bar wherever it touches in it's cycle and then wiped everything down with alcohol, to include anything that touches in the entire priming system. Now it's slicker than slick. Every 500 rds or so I wipe it down again with alcohol. Gotta keep it dry.
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Too much crimp. Should be .419"
You, sir, are 100% correct. All is well. Thank you very much. -
Too much crimp. Should be .419"
Gotta go check and see.
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I've got the puzzles on this and just spent a couple of hours searching for answers. I don't think I found what is happening in my case so I thought I'd ask.
I've reloaded many, many rounds with the Dillon 550. I have tool heads for .45, .38 Super, and now .40. The .40 is giving me fits. I can take any of the once fired cases, regardless of brand, and re-size them. They drop right in the chamber of my new STI Sentinel single stack in .40.
The problem starts when the bullet is seated. I'm using a Master Cast 180gr lead flat tip. They are sized at .401. I seat them at 1.135.
Now the cartridge, when dropped into the chamber of the barrel, goes in to about where the base of the bullet in the case is. From the base of the bullet forward there is a bulge in the finished round.
200 white box rounds were 100% in the gun prior to this reloading attempt.
I found info on coke bottle bulge, but no answer I can see to use in this instance.
Is my chamber too tight? Is it something else in the set-up I did with the dies (Dillon dies) that can be fixed?
Thanks in advance.
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NOT trying to be a smart-a##, but the easiest way about it would be simply pick up a STI steel guide rod, already set to go in your STI and available at Shooters for $15.75. Dropped right into my Edge like it was made for the gun!
Just a thought...
Now that's an idea I really had not thought of. Thought they were done on an individual basis or something. Thanks.
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I did a couple of searches and here is the situation I have. I have a new gun with the STI recoil master (heavy) installed at the factory. I like and am used to a one piece solid guide rod and a single spring. I noticed on two other recent handguns that the rear of the one piece guide rods have a bevel from about half way down. The searches thus far told me that the bevel is "about 30*" and was easy to do with a belt sander.
My questions are:
Why the bevel? Years ago I do not recall any bevel and folks were replacing one piece with two piece, short ones with full length ones, etc. I do not recall anyone in my group doing any bevel. I realize I could have been with a dumb group.
And lastly, is the exact bevel best, instead of "about 30*"? Should I measure with a protractor and bevel accordingly in relation with the barrel feet?
Oh heck, and what's a new (100 rd) recoil master worth when I go to the next match and offer it for sale or trade?
Thanks so much for any insight you can/will give. The proper thread would be cool too if you would direct me. I just can't find the info I want when I search.
Paul
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Switch top guns aren't all they are cracked up to be. Either convert it and leave it converted or sell it and buy what you want.
The cost of a top end will get you a long way toward a full custom gun that is far and away more gun than a factory gun.
Someone mentioned Benny already and you can't argue that, he builds one hell of a nice gun at a reasonable price. Talk to a couple of the guys that come highly recommended here and see what kind of feedback you get, I would bet lunch the story will be pretty consistent between them.
If it were me I would sell the Super, and order what I wanted built by a GOOD gunsmith.
That's the way I'm leaning. I appreciate the advice.
Holy crap, what an awesome handgun!
Tanfo Limited Sear Spring
in EAA / Tanfoglio Shop
Posted
When lifting the sear spring arm up to the take-down notch, the arm broke off. I called Henning and just now received the replacement. Very fast shipment, by the way. So now the frustration starts.
I have watched Henning's video 10-12 times. I have a very powerful magnifier/light combo and can see exactly how it fits. But how do you get that sucker in there. Maybe my fingers are way too big for this little stuff. Can anyone point me towards a simple method. It does not just drop in and apply a little pressure with your index finger. Should the sear be open or closed against the housing? Does that matter? Has anyone got a large close-up photo that could help? I'm holding it the way Henning does in his video, but my fingers are in the way so I had to alter the grip a bit. Arghhhhhhh. Thanks.
Paul