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cavallino

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Posts posted by cavallino

  1. 4 hours ago, Makicjf said:

    Lee 150 Rn, water dropped, nominally sized to .358 (.3585-.360 after rebound) either coated in Lee Liquid Alox or Hi tek coated ( depending on the time I have to invest), seated to 1.170 and roll crimped into the lube groove using lee 38 short colt dies, then ironed smooth with a 9mm Lee factory crimp die set to not taper crimp.  This is dosed with 3.4 of Bullseye over a Winchester primer ( I can't find Federal).  Makes 900 fps (with an ES of about 21 fps) from my 4 inch 627 pro.  A longer barrel could easily go to 3.2 of Bullseye.  3.2 hovers right at or just below a 125 pf from the 4 inch barrel.  God bless casting, they cost  about a penny a bullet, or 6.5 cents per round if you amortize the case over 10 rounds.... 

    Jason

    Jason have you ever pulled a bullet after loading and remeasured your diameter? That 9mm FCD might be resizing you bullet in the case.

  2. I've used that cutter setup on several barrels and some cut easier than others. Repeated firing seems to work harden/case harden the metal around the forcing cone and makes it extremely hard to cut. Once you get through the hard spot it will cut like butter. You need the gun setup in a vice and pull back extremely hard whilst turning the cutter or use the drill adapter and spin it with a battery drill and use plenty of good cutting fluid. But if you want extreme accuracy pull the barrel, set it up in a lathe and turn it back one turn and recut the forcing cone with a sharp single point tool.

  3. Thanks for the info guys. I am about to rebarrel my 686 so thinking it was a good opportunity to make things nice and square. I will take Warren's advice and check the runout on the front face of the cylinder.

  4. I have come across a few old articles where the gunsmiths building ppc type guns would machine the front face of the cylinder to square things up before fitting a new barrel. My question is are gunsmiths still doing this or does it have no effect on accuracy? Would it not make sense to take a light cut or surface grind the front face to make sure it is square?

  5. Turning targets is the way to go. Last years Australian Regionals we ran turning targets for Standards and eliminated the overtime penalties as there was no target to shoot at after time. The problem it did introduce however was the scoring of skid shots on partialy turned targets. But the cool and slightly intimidating factor was when we had 8 shooters in a line at the 10 and 3 yard lines all firing at once, also quickened up the stage by running all 8 shooters at once.

  6. Pro Grip is what I am using now and like Bubber said can be hard to get but is good stuff.

    I use the rubber Hogues on my PPC gun but find them just a bit sticky for fast shooting, has any one tried the "Fast Grip" stuff from Eric Grauffel?

  7. I have shot for a long time with smooth hogue wooden grips and like the feel but normally use pro grip just to give a little more grip assistance, but am wondering if there is a better product out there.

    What are most people favoring nowadays? Do you use a lotion or chalk product?

  8. Does anyone have any information or reloading data on the 224 stark cartridge?

    It was a 44 magnum case necked to .224 and was around in the 60's to 70's.

    Anyone's experience with this calibre would be most helpfull.

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