Toolguy
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Posts posted by Toolguy
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You can make a tool for that out of a 4" long, 1/4" diameter piece of steel rod with a hole in each end. Drill the holes in the lathe. Center drill, then drill about .010 to .015 under size for a pilot hole. Finish drill one end 9/64" (.141) for the hammer stud, one end #38 (.1015) for the trigger stud. Make the holes about 1/2" deep.
Then you can slip the tool over the stud and check for square and gently adjust as needed, by pushing on the top of the rod in the desired direction. Make the holes as close a slip fit as possible so the tool is an extension of the stud. Then you can use a small square against the side of the rod.
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I have good luck with standard 3/16 bits.
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I would look for a broken firing pin or hammer stud. We're all just guessing here.
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It looks like you need better insulation on your heating/cooling ductwork...
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A Cratex (rubberized abrasive) bit will probably be the best route to go at this point.
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Last time he was on the forum was Dec. 1, 2023. If no one can contact him, I can rustle one up. I don't want to step on anyone's toes, so we need to see if he's still around first. I made a few for myself, but didn't plan to sell them. If Lee isn't going to do them any more, I can let go of one or two.
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I think of the revo people as my friends, even though I haven't met some of them, so I try to help them as my skill set allows. I have a lot of good local revo friends, too. It's kind of a tight community.
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I will look forward to seeing you then. I'll PM you when I figure out the cost. It will be affordable. I live about 5 miles from Mill Creek Rifle Club. I assume that's where the match will be.
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I would be honored. I went through junior high and high school in Rose Hill. You've probably never heard of that grease spot in the road, though.
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If you're in the KC area, I can get you set up with an inexpensive and easy way to do that. All you need is a .358 reamer and custom made bushing. The .358 size will work fine.
Don't bother with Pacific Tool & Gage. They are a nightmare to deal with, and you may never get what you ordered.
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A little belated- Thanks for the kind words, Mike. That's a very high compliment in my book, considering the source.
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It should be a great choice for SC.
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Personally, I'm just experimenting all the time. I just made a 357 Sig (essentially a 40 S&W necked down to 9mm), 686 with .40 S&W moonclips just to see if it would work and if it was faster to reload when putting a 9mm bullet into a 10mm chamber. I'm only loading to about 135 PF, as full power loads might be too much for an L frame cylinder. It works fine, but the moonclips I have are so loose on the brass that all the bullets don't line up right sometimes. If I can come up with better moons, it will probably work fine.
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The 327 is a lightweight gun, and we don't know what kind of loads will be used. Regular or even +P target loads don't need the bolt block. Major Power Factor or Magnum loads may (or may not) need it.
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You need a barrel for an N frame, not a K or L frame.
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I would leave the bolt block in, just for reliability insurance . The hand on guns with this feature have an extended length hand pivot pin to engage the slot of the bolt block.
You can leave out the storage lock and put in the hole plug. Also remove the hammer block if you want. I leave the hammer block in all of my guns. It's a good safety feature, and doesn't hurt anything.
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If you have or get all Starline brass, the same moonclips will fit all the different sizes from 38 Short Colt through 357 Magnum. Other brands of brass need different sized moonclips.
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Reactive targets are best dealt with by bullet weight - the heavier, the better. A slow, heavy bullet gives better knockdown and lower recoil than a faster, lighter bullet. A short cartridge will be easier to do fast reloads with. The coated bullets you show will work fine. I have had good performance with Blue Bullets. You want to stick with the 358 diameter.
For this purpose, I'm shooting 160 gr. bullets in 38 Short Colt brass over 4 gr. of 231. I have not chronoed these, but they are about the minimum load that will take down a big Pepper Popper in one shot. I estimate them at around 140 power factor. Overall loaded length is 1.150. The Short Colt case is essentially a rimmed 9mm, being almost exactly the same case length and volume. You can load these with a 38/357 carbide size die and 9mm powder funnel, seating die and crimp die if you don't want to buy 38 Short Colt dies.
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I think you mean .006 gap. .0006 is less than a thousandth.
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I made a 627 cylinder to fit the 929 to shoot 38 Short Colt. The 929 cylinder is slightly shorter, so all you have to do is face off the front of the 627 cylinder the right amount. Then the chambers are right for both calibers, and it only takes about a minute to change from one to the other. You can also ream a 38 or 357 cylinder to work for 38 Super. I'm not a fan of using a 9mm chamber for everything.
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That was going to be my next guess. A broken hammer or trigger stud will make the action act weird. Also, check the storage lock and make sure the springs aren't out of place or damaged. If they are, it could allow the locking lever to rise up and catch on the hammer. The broken stud theory is the more likely to happen.
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It sounds like a trigger stop that's a hair too long. Do you have any kind of trigger stop on the gun? Maybe inside the rebound slide?
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If yer gonna dream, dream big in case it comes true!
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Maybe checking for a high primer or junk under the extractor. Either of those will make the cylinder hard to turn.
686-6 FTF (and it isn't the hammer spring tensioning screw)
in Revolver Forum
Posted · Edited by Toolguy
Once you have the tool on there, you may as well tweak it a tiny bit and be done. It seems silly to go through all the hassle and expense of sending it back at that point. Besides, they won't fix that anyway. They'll say it's in spec and send it back.