elchupacabra

Has anyone been able to get their DIY Bluetooth module to work with the Pro Chrono Digital Link app, yet? Just thought I'd try to perform CPR on this thread as I know a lot of us are anxious to get our BT modules talking to the app. Could it be a baud rate thing? I would think the Chrono would dictate that, but what do I know.

Well, after trying multiple times in multiple browsers using different methods for the last four or five hours, I was unable to upload pics of my BlueSMiRF to ProChrono project. It kept telling me "An error occurred: You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community". They are in .jpg format and I made sure all images were 600 pixels or less in width. Maybe I tried to upload too many at once? Or, maybe I need to re-re-review the forum FAQ's/guidelines? However, I'm pretty sure these should have been okay. UGHHH, if anybody knows what I'm doing wrong, PM me instead of replying on this thread so we don't blow it up with junk. ...It wouldn't let me post this with a single image here either.

Cool. Thanks M852. I took some pictures and had a short time to play with the app. I won't be able to upload the pics until later this evening or tomorrow. Life keeps getting in the way of fun, but I think we're all familiar with how that goes around here.

So, after following the original DIY Serial Cable thread a couple years ago, I finally got off my duff and went the Bluetooth route. I procured the BlueSMiRF Silver Bluetooth Modem (to TTL Serial) and a CP2102 USB to TTL Serial breakout board from Sparkfun. The BlueSMiRF Silver is based on the RN-42 bluetooth modem and is spec'd to about 18 meters. The BlueSMiRF Gold is based on the RN-41 bluetooth modem and is spec'd to 100 meters, but I don't know if it will handle the 1200bps needed to communicate with the ProChrono. BlueSMiRF Silver: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12577 CP2102 USB to Serial Breakout Board: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/198 Using a WinXP box, I was able to setup the bluetooth modem using Hyperterminal by connecting the modem to the CP2102 breakout board (installed the drivers for the CP2102 first). Sparkfun's BlueSMiRF page says it's baud range is 2400-115200bps but the Roving Networks documentation specifies 1200-115200bps. I was able to configure it for 1200bps without any trouble and I left it's default of slave mode. The beauty of the BlueSMiRF modem is that it will accept 5V at the VCC pin as it has an internal voltage regulator and level shifter to drop that to 3.3V. I used a four cell AA holder and stuffed it with NiMH rechargables (for a total of 4.8V) which is within the acceptable range for the BlueSMiRF's onboard regulator. Now, getting it connected to the ProChrono Digital: First, I soldered a male SIP header (1x6, but a 1x4 would work as you don't need the RTS and CTS pins) to the BlueSMiRF. Next, I cut off one end of a stereo 3.5mm audio cable (to about 3ft long), removed about 1.5 to 2 inches of the outer audio cable jacket and stripped and tinned 1/4 inch of exposed wires (used heatshrink tubing to cover the bare ground wire up to the last 1/4 inch and twisted it around the negative wire of the battery holder before soldering them together). Using a DVM, I rang out the Tx (tip), Rx (ring) and ground (sleeve) wires and soldered them to a female SIP header. It is important to solder the audio cables Tx wire to the female SIP header pin that will connect to the Rx pin of the BlueSMiRF's male SIP header and the audio cables Rx wire to the correct pin to interface with the BlueSMiRF's Tx pin. Moving right along, I soldered the battery holders positive (red) wire to pin of the female SIP header that interfaces with the BlueSMiRF's VCC pin and the battery holders negative (black) wire which is soldered together with the audio cables ground wire to the GND pin on the female SIP header. Then I soldered a 10k resistor between the BlueSMiRF's Rx and GND pins on the opposite side of the board from the header (for the not-so-technically-inclined, this is the same as putting it across the Tx and ground of the ProChrono as mention at least a couple dozen time throughout these threads). * Just a side note: I noticed the CED FT232RL based USB to Serial adapter uses a 4.7k resistor instead, but I haven't tried that to see if it will work here. Here is where I plug the female SIP header (that's soldered to the 3.5mm audio cable and battery holder) into the male SIP header on the BlueSMiRF making sure that the orientation is correct so the battery positive is engage with the VCC pin of the BlueSMiRF. Finally, I connected the 3.5mm audio plug into the ProChrono and loaded the battery holder with freshly charged NiMH AA batteries. Turned on the ProChrono, paired my Android to the BlueSMiRF modem and launched a bluetooth serial terminal emulator I downloaded from the Google Play store. Sent the change string command (:000000057B) and, VOILA, the ProChrono changed strings. Tried it again, and again, success. Next, I shot a few nerf darts over the ProChrono, the terminal received some data (strings of data I couldn't interpret without studying the communication protocol uploaded earlier in this thread). So, I would consider that a HUGE success. I could not, however, unzip the app uploaded to this thread by BenOZ. So, as soon as somebody can upload an app here or get one to the Google Play store, those of us who have successfully bluetoothed our ProChronos will be able to play, test and get feedback to our generous app coders out there. Also, for the record, I was able to connect and control my ProChrono from my Windows Vista laptop using my BlueSMiRF rig. I will try to upload pictures of my build soon. ** Important side note here: The BlueSMiRF modem uses a different AT command set than the HC-05/HC-06 bluetooth devices previously mentioned in these threads. So, USE ONLY THE AT COMMAND SET IN THE ROVING NETWORKS DATASHEET WHEN CONFIGURING THE BLUESMiRF MODEM!!!

Fred, I would love to be kept abreast of your progress. For your information, the USB kit for this chronograph uses the FT232RL. I've been wanting to make this thing Bluetooth as well. If you get it to work, by all means, please post details as Competition Electronics don't really seem to be in any hurry to do this. AND, if you do create an Android app version of this software, I would be very interested in that as well because my phone's battery would last longer than my laptop's at the range. It's great to see so much interest in this! Regards, James