ShrinkMD

I was looking for the same info. I made up some test dummies, and I needed 1.055 for them to plunk in the barrels, and to pass the Wilson case gauge. I have some Sport Pistol to play with, and was planning on using the 125 gr coated LRN date, since it lists OAL of 1.05. I'm going to start at 3.5 gr, and load up to 4 or 4.1, since the +P data for the same bullet is 4.2 max, and see which is most accurate.

Wow, I am hoping that works for me as well on the 1050, great to hear! I am starting my load all my 40S&W brass first, but then changing to 45 and the large primer is my next project, so happy it should work with just a quick shellplate change. I will report back once I do so...

Also, I'm wondering if other people were able to switch shell plates from 45 to 45AR, and not have to readjust any of the dies on the toolhead?

Ordered my shellplate "H", they said they only have 4 in stock today. I have other reloading projects, but I am sick and tired of struggling with the Hornady LNL AP, so I may as well get that shell plate while the getting is good. The guy on the phone said Yellow adapter, large plunger, and #4 locator buttons, which I see come in the 44 magnum conversion.

I noticed that the M-die type powder funnels are not available in 44 special/mag, and I plan on loading those on my 1050 someday. Any thoughts on replacing the Dillon expander on station 2 with one of these puppies? No crimps to worry about on 44 special or magnum brass, so it looks possible. Thoughts? I am very happy with my 9mm PTX funnel from Unique Tek, and plenty of crimped brass in 9mm, so the swage rod is needed.

Hi everyone, I am getting back into using my 1050 after being away from the hobby for a while. I plan on finally changing calibers, as well as taking it apart for a good cleaning and lubrication. I already replaced my Redding competition seat and taper crimp die with the Dillon ones, which makes cleaning out the lead and wax lube much easier. I also adjusted the powder die to bell the mouth a bit more. The rounds already look nicer, but it was odd that I am doing better with the rounded seating insert than the semi wad cutter. I am loading 126gr semi wad cutters with hardness of BHN 16 . The wadcutter was seating the bullets crooked, but the round side seems fine. I have a few other questions: 1) It looks like I can use the Hornady die lock rings to set up a secondary tool head, which will need some fiddling with powder measure each time. Have people been successful with this? I already have dies and lots of Hornady lock rings from my LNL days, so it would be great to use the 1050 for everything for the price of a shell plate and the large primer system. 223 someday, but that’s a different project. 2) I noticed there are many interesting looking products on the market for auto drive, bullet feeders, as well as some custom aftermarket replacements of shell plates, sewage rods, powder funnels, bearing kits, spill stops, etc. I’ve been reading the posts about some of these, and it’s unclear if these are solutions looking for a problem, or more relevant to auto drive users who will be making hundreds of thousands of rounds a year. Besides for the lighting module, which looks great, are any of these other mods valuable enough to be considered necessary, as in Dillon should have put them there in the first place as OEM? Thanks!

Would I be able to substitute the Lyman M die for the Dillon expander, or would that not work properly with the primer pocket swager which is at work underneath simultaneously? Matt Dardas is very insistent on using the Lyman M die for the "best" results with his lead bullets, so I figure since I have the extra station, why not?

My new 1050 was set up well from the factory to swage various 9mm cases, but the primer punch was too high. They looked a bit off, but I figured it was the factory setting. Today I had a 30% restrike rate. They all went eventually, but many needed a second hit to light them off. I will be turning that hex screw to seat them a bit deeper. This occurred with FC brass as well as mixed range stuff. On a happy note, the press processed the mixed range brass beautifully, swaging and resizing and everything was perfect. I think I just need to seat the bullets a little deeper, and definitely seat the primers a little lower. Then all will be well.

New 1050 owner, new Dillon owner here. I have years of experience on a Hornady LNL AP, and now I'm loading 9 on the 1050. I noticed that my lead bullets didn't smear or leak lube at all (so far). On the Hornady I use a powder through expander, the Powderfunnel PTX, which works well, but I notice bits of lead and blue lube smeared at times. I've read that using a Lyman M-Die prevents this, but there isn't an extra station to put one in. Have other people noticed this, that the 1050 expansion station appears to act like the M Die? Maybe it was just beginners luck adjusting the dies and the machine, but these rounds look great. If this holds up I can really see myself wanting to get caliber conversions and give the Hornady a rest.

Hmm, nice setup wsl! I guess the smart thing to do would be to load ammo with the Dillon measure first, and then make up some with thrown charges on the BR30 and see if it makes any difference. It's always tempting to want to increase your precision but not if the end result doesn't matter. And I don't shoot past 300yd at present.

I was thinking of adding a Redding powder measure to my 1050 when I change it over to 223. What additional equipment do I need, if any? Would this be worth it to use a powder like Varget and get a bit more accuracy, or for 300 yd work and under is it likely not to make a difference?

My 1050 is arriving soon, and my 7' bench is in the middle of construction, more nailing, glueing, and finishing in my future. Where would the best place be to mount it? At some point I would like to add a Giraud trimmer, maybe another progressive (dreaming of another 1050 but probably not) and I'd like to sneak in a single stage and mounted Redding powder measure for rifle. How much space to the right of the handle would be ideal? I know on my Hornady LNL AP I really don't need any space on the right, but it's nice having some to make adjustments, so I wouldn't want it jammed up against the wall. Any thoughts?

Since I don't shoot that much, I use the stainless steel media for tumbling gross range brass back into respectability, so I remove all primers before running my brass. I had too many mishaps on my LNL and just decided to go down that route. So I always know my primer pockets are squeaky clean. If I were shooting more than I do, it would not be feasible to do so.

Sounds great! I have a nice target 9 which I haven't enjoyed as much as I thought I would because of loading difficulties with the 9 brass. I will work up my load first on my Hornady just to make sure that my match chamber gun will run with the bullets and brass I have, and then it's time to figure out where to bolt the thing. Do you really need to bolt the table/desk you put it on to the wall? I have a spot indoors for it, and I was hoping to use an old wooden desk for it, probably reinforce with some plywood underneath where it mounts. 7k rounds a week on those machines is amazing. I don't think I'll be shooting that much!

I am a current Hornady LNL user who is about to take the plunge into a 1050. The main reason I want one (well, besides just wanting one) is to process mixed range 9mm brass. The LNL is a pain in the butt with this, not enough leverage with different brands of brass, throwing off the seating/crimping a bit. Also, the primer seater doesn't always work as well, again with mixed range pickup. Then, I was reading the Dillon manual and some of the threads here, and it seems like setting the swage rod and primer seating depth can be a bit tricky. Is this a real world concern? Right now I manually sort my 9mm brass by headstamp so I can get the Hornady running smoother. Will I have problems dumping Win, RP, FP, S&B, Geco, and other brands of 9mm brass all together into a Super 1050B? Also, unrelated question about maintenance and using blue locktite on the screws. How often does this need to be done? I have bad memories of blue loctite making a mess in screw threads and cleaning it out. Is this a 10,000 round maintenance? I am used to breaking down my Hornady LNL AP, but the 1050 manual looks a bit more complicated! Thoughts?