1911 Disconnector -> Feeding Issues?

[ledavatar]

Good > But How did you clean the parts and frame after you "polished" the parts with 600? Did you use a rag and spray oil? Or did you all so use compressed air? IF you just used a rag and or spray oil you probably ended up with the sanding grit washed into the frame and near unreachable areas.

The last check I do is with a "Clean White" cloth to see if it picks up ANY gray particles. = that would be cut off metal or the sand grit off the paper.

There is a chance that in you oiling and reassembly that you just washed the offending particles out of the way for the time being. and at the worst time they will jump out to grind on your gun in not nice ways.

Good point. I just used gun scrubber and then some remoil on the internals for a light lube. The slide contacts I used militec.

I will use my canned air on the internals and then run an old white tshirt through it.

[want2race]

Sounds like you've found the issue. Reading through the thread I was thinking sear spring was in front of the sear, not sitting on the back of it. If the sear spring isn't sitting where it's supposed to be you get all kinds of issues.

Sounds like the spring/guid rod fit is snug. If it needs oil to function it's tight. Different rods have different diameters. A thinner rod will minimize the grinding. You can use your 600 grit on the guide rod...then polish it. A thinner rod will smoothen it out so it's not so finicky to oil

I polish the top of the disconnector and shape it to reduce the 'snag' factor. Check the disconnect notch on the underside of the slide for excessive wear too. After installing a new "race" disconnector, one side of the top (of the discon.) was hitting the side of the notch in the slide. A little stoning fixed it.

..or take it a 'smith for a "tune up".

[ledavatar]

Well I cleaned and oiled the gun and it ran 100% in a match last Sunday.

I'm a bit hesistant to polish the guide rod because I really like the tight fit, but I'll see, at some point it will probably be polished.

Some people will leave it alone at that point, and that's what I said at first. Of course a day later I'm again tinkering with it. I put in a 17lb hammer spring and 12.5lb recoil spring to test out this coming weekend. The factory springs are probably due for a replacement anyway, and I've been itching to try the lighter springs after reading about them on the forum.

[want2race]

Springs are a personal preference thing. I like the 17 mainspring and a cut down 18 recoil spring. I like the slide to snap back very fast. It's not the typical "cool guy" set up where I can rack the slide with a thumb wrapped over the top of the slide but after some experimentation I found my second shot was much faster. With a light recoil spring my second shot was usually low (delayed slide return). I know, it's backwards from what everybody always says.

I went up to a 19 main at the Area 3 due to two light strikes in a row but I've polished everything that moves (hammer strut, sides of hammer etc) and went back to the 17. We'll see if it works again.

[ledavatar]

Good thing I got a couple of ISMI recoil springs (10, 12.5, 14) and a wolff sampler pack of mainsprings to fiddle with.