New to Glocks, bought a newer 34, have some mechanical questions

[Mattz]

Here's a pic of the gun and a lame question about the grip tape kit the original owner put on.

I was going to peel it all off but once I handled it, I noticed some of it could be of use.

I did remove 2 small pieces that were at the front of the frame. (shown with the red circle in the pic) Anyone know why those would be there? I don't see any part of my hands or fingers ever touching those area's.

I think if I spent a good day shooting, I'd take it all off from chewing up my hands.. (I know it's for tactical use but this is a traget gun to me)

He also had W-S Competition Optic Sights put on which I thought I was going to take off too but love them! I'm used to the old 3 dot set up, now with an open optic in front and flat black in the back, it's offering a whole new sighting approch for me!!

Matt

[a.roberts]

I did remove 2 small pieces that were at the front of the frame. (shown with the red circle in the pic) Anyone know why those would be there? I don't see any part of my hands or fingers ever touching those area's.

Matt

For me, that's a nice index point for my weak hand thumb.

On the opposite side, it's a nice index point for my trigger finger when it's out of the guard.

But I don't have any grippy stuff up there.

[Duane Thomas]

Hey Duane! Wow, that's the best reply I could have received, thanks man!

Yer welcome.

[Duane Thomas]

I was unaware that the firing pin channel had a specal coating that would be runied by solvent or a brush. That is good to know.

The firing pin channel doesn't have a special coating, it has a separate plastic sleeve aka firing pin channel liner that is press fit into place. I can't see it being damaged by solvent - the Glock was, after all, designed as a military service weapon and thus had to be safe to clean in military solvent tanks. I think the concern there was that some of our modern solvents/lubricants are, intentionally, designed not to evaporate, and to leave a light film of lubricant behind. This "wet" film could serve to attract and hold powder fouling, which could in turn lead to a buildup of gunk in the firing pin channel that interferes with free travel of the firing pin, thus leading to failures to fire.

I wouldn't use a metal brush in the firing pin channel, as I would be concerned about the bristles scratching and roughening the surface of the firing pin channel liner, thus increasing its friction quotient on the firing pin and giving you the same problem, and result, as crud in the firing pin channel. Actually I see no need for a brush, period, of any type to clean the firing pin channel. I use Q-tips and rubbing alcohol in this area, myself. It seems to do a good job getting the crud out, but swiftly evaporates and leaves behind no residue.

BTW, in most Glocks I have owned/handled/cleaned the channel liner is such a tight fit it's extremely difficult, if not impossible to get out, even if you wanted to. Though I guess we should never say impossible. I really don't worry about it, just leave it in place and clean it every once in awhile with Q-tips and alcohol.

[Mattz]

Hi

To recap: I'm still not sure what the original issue was but I replaced a bunch of parts and the pull feels great now.

I got a new stock trigger bar and polished it up. I also put in a new channel liner, spacer sleeve, LWD connector and a Glock Store comp spring kit. (night and day difference) I then tried a Zev Tech Race connector and Titanium Firing Pin Safety but preferred the pull of the last set up.

It shoots very nice and smooth but I realized that I'm not going to be using it for target shooting like I intended. (sticking with my 22's) I have it posted for sale but will gladly hang onto it if there is no interest. I'll post some of the last pics to finish up the thread.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate the help to get going.

Matt

[Mattz]

[Mattz]

I was unaware that the firing pin channel had a specal coating that would be runied by solvent or a brush. That is good to know.

BTW, in most Glocks I have owned/handled/cleaned the channel liner is such a tight fit it's extremely difficult, if not impossible to get out, even if you wanted to. Though I guess we should never say impossible. I really don't worry about it, just leave it in place and clean it every once in awhile with Q-tips and alcohol.

Thanks again for all the info Duane

I found a nice tip for removing the channel liner. Just simply screw a 5/16 bolt into the liner and pull it out. (the liner ID is just under the thread OD so it threads right in and then pulls right out)

Edit: this is for replacing it, not cleaning it

Thanks again and have a good one

Matt

Edited December 8, 2011 by Mattz

[SirLoin]

What was the difference between the LWD and the Zev Tech (e.g., how many pounds was the trigger pull with the LWD? with the Zev Tech)? I use Charlie Vanek's trigger kit, and I'm not sure how it compares to these two, though I've heard some say Charlie's is better, so I'm keen to find out how heavy/light the trigger was with the LWD and with the Zev Tech.

I got a new stock trigger bar and polished it up. I also put in a new channel liner, spacer sleeve, LWD connector and a Glock Store comp spring kit. (night and day difference) I then tried a Zev Tech Race connector and Titanium Firing Pin Safety but preferred the pull of the last set up.