Relaoding 40 cal

[470nitro]

Welcome to the forums, Lexusmgr. You'll find lots of good stuff and even better company here.

The search function here will turn up a lot of info on what you're concerned about, but, to get you started, here's a brief review of the issues raised:

40 case failures in Glocks are not a myth, but they can happen in any gun, and may seem frequent in Glocks simply because of their ubiquity. The Glock "bulge" is real, and while I myself once thought that it might lead to case weakening, I have to admit I don't have any hard evidence showing that, or that it leads to case failures. The bulge comes from the way the ramp may cut into the floor of the chamber, and is not exclusive to Glock barrels. AAMOF, my old Taurus 40 (Beretta clone) does the same thing. I understand that newer Glocks have a new ramp/bbl configuration that reduces the bulge. Properly resized brass (and the EGW you're getting will do the job)and reasonable loads should work fine in your Beretta. Search the 40 cal reloading subforum and you should find lots of loads.

Again, welcome!

Kevin C

+100 Maybe we should get MythBusters involved. I've loaded thousands of 40 S&W, with all kinds of brass. Never had the first separation from any brass. To me, the Glock bulge is just an identifier as to what gun fired the round, which I really don't care about anyway, cause I'm gonna re-size it and shoot it anyway. Glocked Shmocked, re-size it and shoot it.

SO GLOCK SHMOCKED! The redding GPX & THE u die are a not needed piece of equipment for loading .40 cal? and the dillon dies will do fine? I got a Glock .40 cal I will be loading for?...

In my experience, I have found that the sizing die cannot really be fully responsible for the job of removal of the Glock bulge. It just doesn't size down the case that far. The single die in a common 4-die set that has close to that capability is the crimp die, oddly enough. Some of the reloading die manufacturers (Lee for one) will tell you that if you end up with their factory crimp die as your last station, that die does resize close enough the case rim to often remove the bulge.

I buy alot of law enforcement and range brass that has the bulge. My fallout rate (cases that wouldn't gauge) before was around 3%-5% using a Dillon crimp die. At the tech-guys advice from Lee, I bought their standard Factory Crimp Die. Now I'm way under 1% from the same sources. A buddy had a bunch of rounds that wouldn't gauge and we ran them through the FC die only and about 90% would gauge. At about $15 from the wholesalers, you can't beat the price. I'd have paid more than double for what its done for me.

My fallout rate is so low now that I don't need a GPX. Also, just FYI but my sizing die is a Redding Titanium Carbide which just feels great but also doesn't remove the bulge.

[MARKAVELI]

Welcome to the forums, Lexusmgr. You'll find lots of good stuff and even better company here.

The search function here will turn up a lot of info on what you're concerned about, but, to get you started, here's a brief review of the issues raised:

40 case failures in Glocks are not a myth, but they can happen in any gun, and may seem frequent in Glocks simply because of their ubiquity. The Glock "bulge" is real, and while I myself once thought that it might lead to case weakening, I have to admit I don't have any hard evidence showing that, or that it leads to case failures. The bulge comes from the way the ramp may cut into the floor of the chamber, and is not exclusive to Glock barrels. AAMOF, my old Taurus 40 (Beretta clone) does the same thing. I understand that newer Glocks have a new ramp/bbl configuration that reduces the bulge. Properly resized brass (and the EGW you're getting will do the job)and reasonable loads should work fine in your Beretta. Search the 40 cal reloading subforum and you should find lots of loads.

Again, welcome!

Kevin C

+100 Maybe we should get MythBusters involved. I've loaded thousands of 40 S&W, with all kinds of brass. Never had the first separation from any brass. To me, the Glock bulge is just an identifier as to what gun fired the round, which I really don't care about anyway, cause I'm gonna re-size it and shoot it anyway. Glocked Shmocked, re-size it and shoot it.

SO GLOCK SHMOCKED! The redding GPX & THE u die are a not needed piece of equipment for loading .40 cal? and the dillon dies will do fine? I got a Glock .40 cal I will be loading for?...

In my experience, I have found that the sizing die cannot really be fully responsible for the job of removal of the Glock bulge. It just doesn't size down the case that far. The single die in a common 4-die set that has close to that capability is the crimp die, oddly enough. Some of the reloading die manufacturers (Lee for one) will tell you that if you end up with their factory crimp die as your last station, that die does resize close enough the case rim to often remove the bulge.

I buy alot of law enforcement and range brass that has the bulge. My fallout rate (cases that wouldn't gauge) before was around 3%-5% using a Dillon crimp die. At the tech-guys advice from Lee, I bought their standard Factory Crimp Die. Now I'm way under 1% from the same sources. A buddy had a bunch of rounds that wouldn't gauge and we ran them through the FC die only and about 90% would gauge. At about $15 from the wholesalers, you can't beat the price. I'd have paid more than double for what its done for me.

My fallout rate is so low now that I don't need a GPX. Also, just FYI but my sizing die is a Redding Titanium Carbide which just feels great but also doesn't remove the bulge.

Its been a minute since my last reply and I must say that grumpyone was right! I been loading .40 cal's over a month or two now and kicked out 2k so far with no problems using my dillon dies... And yes case lube is your friend! Until I come accross a chambering problem then ill just invest in a u or a grx sizing die!