elenius

I'm not at the heating and drilling stage yet, so I just put the original trigger bar spring back. This solved the problem! I also put Brian's Slide Glide #3 on all the connecting metal parts. The trigger is a tiny bit heavier, but the pull is much much cleaner. It breaks really crisp, no creep as far as I can tell! Thanks guys!

Alright, that makes me feel better. I'll just dry fire lake crazy The actual pull already got better from doing that, in fact. This will be sweet to shoot (haven't done so yet).

I started tinkering with my glock: I did the $0.25 trigger job, plus reduced power striking and trigger springs and stock 3.5# connector, all from glockmeister. The trigger is much much nicer indeed! I have a problem though. If I pull the trigger half-way, and then release it, it does not always reset to its original position, with the safety enabled. Sometimes it gets stuck in the half-pressed position, with the middle part of the trigger still pushed in enough to disable the safety. Not sure if I caused this with my amateurish tinkering, but I guess it's pretty likely... How can I fix this/what did I do wrong? I'm guessing that my polishing created an edge somewhere where something gets stuck instead of sliding off like it's supposed to.

Thanks a lot, all, for the input. I decided to get the Sevigny sights (I don't like FOs), tru-grip, stainless steel guide rod, and a set of recoil springs (13#,15#,17#). I decided to do a trigger job myself, partly because I need some use for my new dremel tool, and partly to learn how my glock works In case other newbies are reading this, I found great instructions: here and here . So I will get a 3.5lb connector, reduced power striker spring, reduced power trigger spring, and a glock disassembly tool I also need to make my mags fall free more easily. I found some suggestions that the mag catch spring could be bent a bit, so I'll try that. And last but not least, my mags do not seat when full (10 rounds in 10 rd mags). If I use enough force to slam them in, I can't cycle the slide, and the topmost round is marked by some part in the frame which I don't know the name of yet... I think I will just try to remove part of the mag springs... Then I'll be a happy camper

The Production-legal Vanek trigger kit is $125 and the RS is $75. Is the Vanek worth the extra $$?

What is the width of the Sevigny front sight? I like the thinner ones a lot. And which of the two has the wider rear notch? I like the wider ones Also, do I need any special tools to install the sights? I noticed some of them come with a tool for the front sight, and gunracing.com has a $75 tool and a $5 tool to install rear sights

I just started shooting my glock 22 in production (I reload for soft .40s). I am considering what upgrades to get for this gun, and I would like some input from the experts here I understand that I can change the sights. I am considering the "Heinie SlantPro with CGR Race Cut" found here. (Sound good?). As I understand, I can also change the barrel (right?) but I might not, since I'm not too scared of pressure problems with my minor loads. My main question is, can I use one of these trigger kits? The rule book says I can do trigger work to increase reliability... Not sure if this falls under that category?

Thanks for the info guys! I want a single stack, so the para and the barsto are out. The latter is also out of my price league Building my own sounds... interesting. I don't know anything about 1911s, except I've shot them a few times and like them Any pointers on where to start learning about this? I'll check out that other thread also.

There are none on the CA approved list! I don't have any relatives out of state who could buy it for me. Am I allowed to buy one myself out of state and bring it in? Can I buy a used one on e.g. gunbroker.com? I am guessing that the answer is going to be a caliber conversion for a .45 of some sort. Any recommendations on what gear to get? My original idea was to get an STI Trojan in .40, but they don't have *any* STIs on the Cali list

I know, I'm using a Glock 22 for production. The point was that it's the same caliber, which makes things easier when reloading.

I am considering getting an STI Ranger II in .40S&W for both single stack and L10. .40 because it's cheaper to reload than .45, plus I can use it for production as well, without messing around with caliber conversion on my press. Questions: Is there a better gun for the same price (just over $1k)? I also looked at the Trojan 5.0, which costs the same, but I don't think I want the longer barrel. What else is different on these two? Can I use any magwells and baseplates in single stack division? What mags would you recommend for SS and L10? (I know I can't use the same for both, as SS doesn't allow extended mags). *edit* It seems that no STI guns are CA legal? That's where I live, unfortunately. So, given that, what are my best choices?

Can I use plated (e.g. Berry's) bullets in a glock? Or do they have to be proper plated ones? *edit* Ooops, it says I can in their FAQ

Hmm, what about the SpeedSec? The trigger guard retention is not adjustable on that one? Does the CR come with those shims? I would like the holster to be able to handle different barrel lengths, as I'm sure I'll want to use with several different revolvers. So I guess the safariland and the PWL are out.

Which should I get? I've looked at Safariland's 002, the CR speed holster, and ghost holsters. Anyone have experience with any of these? I want to use it with the Ruger GP100 that I have now, but it needs to be adjustable for when I get a different revolver...