Brassblazer

The revolver is clean no carbon build up anywhere, what I was talkimg about is burn marks. I only dry tumble. But noted

No I dry tumble with walnut media for 6-8 hours. Always comes out very clean. Never tried wet tumbling with ss pins.

No I dry tumble with walnut media for 6-8 hours. Always comes out very clean. Never tried wet tumbling with ss pins.

No I dry tumble with walnit media for 6-8 hours. Always comes out very clean. Never tried wet tumbling with ss pins.

I only use ballistol to wipe off the powder burns on any of my guns to comtrol build up & some “shooters lube” solvent inside the barrel with a hoppes bore snake. Easy clean. Found it works quite well for me. No ammonia.

Haha I literally just use ballistol oil to wipe it clean when the carbon builds up on the sides of the frame..dont bother with trying to “clean”/remove powder burns from the cylinder/forcing cone much as it just shows up after shooting again. It is brand spank’n new however, Ive only got 1k rounds through it so far as it was purchased NIB just back in march.

Noted. Going to test 3 different casings and see what results I get on Monday.

Using different moons and same results arise. I am in the process of figuring this out.

Noted

Recently, 115-148 cci & federal primers. Just depends what I take w/ me to shoot. I’ve played around with different loads up to this point in order to find what works best for me, however I am not mixing brass when shooting. I shoot same grain, brass & primer during live fire.

Thanks for the input. Yes, TK did a fantastic/clean job. Great guys over there. Im having a blast with this thing. The problem (as of late) is my reloads have come to a near hault due to supply being soo dried up. I have been shooting some of my reloads (trying to conserve for matches) but mainly using factory federal & win at the range. Powder has also been difficult to find so unfortunately I am making due wirh what I have at the moment all the information you provided me is helpful indeed, so I appreciate the response. thank you.

So..for some reason my S&W M929 won’t eject most of my spent casings. I have used blazer brass, federal & win (all fire every time) but have problems with all of these ejecting every time. I am using .35 clips and .40 clips all from TK...also had the TI cylinder chamfer job from TK...in dry fire my dummy rounds drop in & eject out freely & smoothly every time with no problem using both .35 & .40 clips. In live fire...About 3 out of 10 moons eject smoothly...all other practically have to be pried at the edges to break them free enough to use the ejector rod to remove, otherwise theres no getting them out. This is going to be an issue while competing. Theres no burres in my cylinder. Anyone else experienced this problem? thanks.

Found my answer. Thanks.

Awesome, I went ahead and ordered ome for myself after reading/watching some reviews seems to be a great trigger, and for the price you can’t beat it. Thanks for the input!

So I am new to drilling & tapping...I have a thumb rest to be drilled into the frame (2 holes) and a single hole near the rear of the slide for the slide racker lever. I have a small decent drill press firmly mounted, the correct carbide drill sizes, starter taps & finishing taps for this project. I Will be using plenty of cutting fluid (tap magic). I am just curious if anyone has any tips for me, or any experience with drilling/tapping this gun alone. I am aware the material is hard. appreciate any and all input. Thanks in advance!

Beautiful piece man. Looks awesome. I really like that trigger as I am a flat trigger guy myself. How do you like it so far? Thanks for sharing.

Getting ideas for my buckmark build for steel Challenge. Upload your photos if you’re interested in participating!

I have a buckmark ufx I recently started to breathe new life into. I am turning it into a fun project/steel challenge gun. I have some new parts to install. Barrel, magwell, C-more 90° mount and a slide racker that I need to drill & tap into the slide in order to attach. It is the matte black finish, it’s pretty roughed up so I figured I might as well refinish it for a new look after I tap it while im at it. I was thinking of having it either bead blasted or cerakoted by a buddy of mine as I am concerned if I use the ‘ol vinegar trick it will just end up rusting. Want to try a simple approach as aftermarket slides are nowhere to be found. Any suggestions? Input is appreciated, Thanks.

Again, not the blemish itself but what caused the blemish is what I am trying to diagnose...as it hasn’t even been shot and wasn’t a display model at the shop, he told me it was on its way in from s&w directly as a NIB revolver so I dished out the cash right then & there. When it arrived I was too busy focusing on checking lockup, end shake, action, forcing cone edge finish etc. to make sure all things checked out, I didn’t notice it till I had it home and was really going over it in my shop. guess I’ve filled my head with the negatives & need to focus on the positives that good folks such as yourself have experienced...I greatly appreciate you weighing in & you have greatly reduced my concerns, so thank you sir. Hope you’re having a great day!