nphd2000
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Posts posted by nphd2000
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I've done some more comparison shooting between my .40 limited load (180 MG w/4.5 TG) and my "expensive" open load (135 Berry's plated w/8.6 VVN350). The limited load works and makes 170 PF but I have to say that my open load makes the gun feel like an OPEN gun. The limited load feels more like a push and the dot moves a little. With the open load there is a loud bang, a little flash, and the dot twitches a bit. I actually feel the open load recoil in my shoulders rather than my hands and arms.
I'll stick with the open load for matches but may use some of the limited laods for practice.
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Well, I changed the striker and my doubling problem has stopped. The striker "tang" that engages the top of the trigger bar was a smidge longer. I'll be shooting it in a match this weekend to see if the problem is truly solved.
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Disassemble the pistol, remove the trigger, depress the trigger safety, and blend it into the trigger face with fine sandpaper or trim it with a knife then smooth it.
Don't do that if you are thinking of shooting that gun in USPSA Production division
I think hes just talking about removing the burrs from the frame casting process; that wouldnt be a problem for production, its like removing an errant piece of machined metal from a slide.
I believe what he is talking about is "Blending the trigger safety with the face of the trigger" which is an external mod. Illegal for production.
The numb finger happens to me also. The safety "tab" even when depressed, is above the face of the trigger. Unfortunately if you want to shoot production, you have to leave it as-is.
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This is an interesting topic for me. I'm having the same problem with my G35 open gun. Of course the trigger parts are polished, reshaped all the springs have been lightened, you know, the works. It ran great for about 5 or 6 hundred rounds then I was practicing at the range and it happened, a double, but I noticed I was slow on letting the trigger re-set. It didn't happen for about another 50 rounds then it happened again. That night I read this post and figured let me clean the gun and see what happens. The double didn't seem "machine gun" fast but pretty fast.
Well cleaning didn't help, it doubles about every 10 rounds or so now. It never went auto, but just in case I only loaded 3 or 4 rounds at a time. If I trigger slap it doesn't seem to double. I am going to try a new striker, if that doesn't cure it I'll replace the trigger with a stock one to see if that stops it. (Damn that trigger had a clean crisp break though
)We'll see what happens tomorrow.
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Disassemble the pistol, remove the trigger, depress the trigger safety, and blend it into the trigger face with fine sandpaper or trim it with a knife then smooth it.
Don't do that if you are thinking of shooting that gun in USPSA Production division
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I have a recipe that shoots pretty flat in a G35 open .40, 135 berrys with 8.4 grns of VVN350 (My friends think it shoots flat too). It's a little expensive but works pretty good. I never shot an open gun before so I don't realy have much experience and I chickened out building my G17 open 9mm so I can't compare the 2. Someday I may give the 9mm another try, but for now the .40 will do.
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I started with an extra 35 slide, put a KKM comp barrel in it and put a j-point on it. Shot it a couple of times and liked it. I used my limited G35 frame and just switched back and forth. The limited gun is heavy though and I prefered a lighter open gun so I assembled this with parts from SJC.
Nick
Well the picture isn't cooperating so go to the "Stealth Open Glock" post if you want.
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Good lookin gun you have.
I like the grip panels, are they stock? Can a guy get a set of them from somewhere? I have an Armscor .40 with ICE Magwell and Dawson FO front sight. I think I'm going to try some skateboard tape on the front strap since mine is smooth.
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I shoot a G17 in production with 10 round mags. I use the "Jack" mag method. Step up with the "Jack" (1 round in mag) mag in left front pocket, 4 loaded (very important) mags on my belt, and 1 in my left back pocket (I'm right handed). Load and make ready I "Jack" a round in the gun from my jack mag in my left front pocket, remove that mag, if I see follower the round is chambered, put the mag back in my pocket. Retrive the full mag from my left back pocket, insert into the gun, make sure it is seated, and holster. Now some may frown upon this, but I even do this load and make ready "Ritual" on 10 round or less Virginia count strings (just to keep things the same).
When I shoot Lim 10 with my Armscor (nice gun for the money by the way) I have 15 round mags. Each mag is numbered, #1 gets 11 rounds loaded, thats my load and make ready mag. Load and make ready is much easier in Lim 10 for me.
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I think I may have finally learned this lesson as well. I would "melt down" at almost every match I shot. This year I finally learned to eat a little something before I go, take a few "snack bars" and some Gatorade type drink (I found water just doesn't cut it). I take a few sips between stages even when i don't think I'm thirsty. Now I'm not saying I shoot better but I feel better at the end of the match.
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Hi,
will the Tungsten Guide Rod keep me in USPSA Production? will it be over the 2 oz rule?
Thanks!
Tungsten guide rod is OK as long as it isn't extended.
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Does anyone know if there is a scope mount available for a Rossi 6" revolver? I tried their website and they list a scope rail but it doesn't say exactly what it fit's. My local club has a modified PPL league where you can use a scoped "bullseye" gun, thought maybe I would give it a try but can't seem to find a mount (I only started looking this evening though)
Thanks,
Nick
Hmmmmm....just looked at the Rossi web site, the mount I saw was for their long guns,
Here's a page from B Square, other than that I can't help.
http://secure.armorholdings.com/b-square/rossi_handguns.html
Thanks for the info. It was a big help.
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Does anyone know if there is a scope mount available for a Rossi 6" revolver? I tried their website and they list a scope rail but it doesn't say exactly what it fit's. My local club has a modified PPL league where you can use a scoped "bullseye" gun, thought maybe I would give it a try but can't seem to find a mount (I only started looking this evening though)
Thanks,
Nick
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I'm REALY confused now.
Manny, you are using Titegroup for your open gun? I thought that powder would burn too fast and not work the comp.
I use 4.5 of Titegroup with a MG 180 for Lim-10 so I guess I'll run some through the open gun and see how it shoots.
Now its true that for a 9mm it won't work, but were talking 40 S&W and a 180gr bullet and in my opinion it works fine.
Well Manny, I must say that I was shocked when I ran my limited load thru the open gun. It shot flatter than I expected, although now I think the comp is more of a barrel weight. I'll run a couple hundred rounds thru her and see what I decide probably, shoot a match or 2 also and I have to chrono of course. We'll see.
Nick
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The magazine follower, when the mag is empty, pushes the slide stop up to catch the slide. With the empty mag in, when you try to release the slide, you are pressing against the mag spring tension. With the mag out there should be a little "tension" on the slide stop when you release it if it has a detent in it. My armscor doesn't have a detent, if the slide is locked back you drop the mag out and pull the slide to the rear just a bit and the slide lock drops (it's angled to do that).
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I'm REALY confused now.
Manny, you are using Titegroup for your open gun? I thought that powder would burn too fast and not work the comp.
I use 4.5 of Titegroup with a MG 180 for Lim-10 so I guess I'll run some through the open gun and see how it shoots.
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It's actually $865.00 for the G35 and $965 for the G22 (were talking .40 here)
The G22 needs slide machining and a 3.5 connector thats why it's more (Info takin from website)
I wish they offered the package before I put my own together. It cost me about the same and I had to do the work and iron out the bugs. (there is still 1 or 2 critters to get out of there)
Whats the cost? I checked their website, but I didn't see this package listed.
$865 on a G34.
$965 on a G17.
Rich
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Mine has the KKM barrel and standard comp with 2 "Home brew" barrel bleeder holes.
Did SJC give you a load to use? I think I have settled on a 135 Berry's bullet with 8.5 of VVN350, for now anyway. (This combo is a little expensive)
Nick
(The gun is a little dirty in the picture)
(And the picture is blury)
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Does it look anything like this?
I love mine although I'm not fast enough to be an open shooter yet
I'll have to practice more.
Nick
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"All I can say is "DAYUUMM!!!"
This experience is decidedly un-fun!"
Andy C.
Thats why I call mine the "Jack Hammer"
In a match I don't notice the recoil as much as when I'm standing at the range punching holes.
I lightened the slide to increase cycle speed. It has been my experience that a lighter slide and spring transmits more of a recoil "slap" than a "push". I prefer the quick slap and it's over. The recoil push takes more time for me to get back on target (I'm not a big guy) My major loads aren't that uncomfortable to shoot but I don't shoot lawman out of it anymore.
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I call it the "Jack Hammer" (due to recoil with major loads) (see pic below) Started shooting it in production then had it lightened and did some trigger work and now shoot it in lim and lim 10. Dawson heavy Ice magwell, hi-viz front and rear fiber optic sights.
My load is 4.5 tite group
MG 180 fmj
OAL 1.125
70 pf
Thinking about trying a metal gun though 1911 style (armscor .40)
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Ding Ding Ding! Bill you are correct, It is a slide racker, but it is a "Mako" (or something like that, found it on e-bay). It's not the best (a little heavy) but it is so handy. The handle is held in by a slot and detent (similar to the pin in the bottom of a 1911 back strap) Pop the handle off and you can remove the slide, with the other slide rackers and the SJC optic mount you have to remove the racker before you can remove the slide and that would require a wrench.
nphd, what is that sticking out the back of your slide? The only Glock I've seen with something protruding out the back of the slide was illegally modified to full auto. (Great split times with it though.)
I Know! I Know! It's a slide racker. Replaces the cover plate. Can't remember who makes the things. Maybe Novak?
Bill
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I spent some time thinking about an open gun. Since I shoot glocks in production, lim-10, and limited (USPSA) I thought "what the heck, build an open Glock". I spent a month working up a mid range steel load to shoot steel and try it out (why shoot major PF at a steel match). I took it to my first major steel match last weekend (PSA Shootout) I shot it well when it ran, it mal-functioned most of the match (wouldn't eject, rounds nose diving into the ramp, blah, blah) My friends were giving me the business about real guns and such. I was so frustrated, on the last stage I changed the recoil spring and loaded up some mags with some major power factor ammo. The gun ran like a raped ape and I blazed the stage (well for me anyway, and I beat some A and B open shooters on my squad that I am good friends with and respect). After that stage and 2 test sessions since then I learned that I will be shooting major ammo out of the gun and I will not change a thing on it. (at least for now
) I can't wait to shoot another match with this gun and I like that it's not the same old run of the mill open gun. Just wanted to share my story.
Nick
(Hopefully a picture is attached)
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Kkm For G17
in Glock
No harm done Friday, thats why we are here to ask questions and learn.
I felt that the barrel rub was causing the gun not to cycle properly and thats what started this post. Of course , before I noticed the rub marks I was messing with loads and spring weights. One thing I learned is you may have to go above "mouse fart" loads to get the gun reliable. I think I'm going to shoot the gun more and see what happens with the barrel "rub".
Turns out all the stuff I did during my slow standing practice (Range rules you know) went out the window during an actual USPSA match. The "feel" of recoil and muzzle blast while "practicing" at the indoor range is amplified. Shooting the same set-up at a match feels completely different.
Nick
)
) I can't wait to shoot another match with this gun and I like that it's not the same old run of the mill open gun. 
Carrying Equipment At A Match
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
I use a Craftsman roll-a-round tool box. Works pretty good but I ended up building a metal base and mounting bigger rubber wheels so it rolls better in gravel. The bottom holds a gun, ammo, shoes, TP. The middle shelf holds my first aid kit, towel, hand wipes, safety glasses, ear muffs. The top shelf holds some spare parts, mag brush, mags, and mag loader.
And I can sit on it too!