MakBaba
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Posts posted by MakBaba
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I’ve only ran a few over the chrono so far, but I’m definitely going to use 5.56 data. With a 62fmj and 23.9 SWTR I got 2700 fps from a 16” barrel. The data on the bottle seems very conservative.
So yeah, lots of headroom. Let me know what you come up with -
I'm running 2 out of 3. EPC lower and upper w' Stern barrel. FM bolt. Runs great. It's true, you should NEVER empty a mag in competition, but mine has never been a liability. I'd rather bolt lock than click/no bang if I miscount.
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Thanks for the input! I drilled a 1" hole in a piece of 2x4, then jig sawed out a 1/4" slot to give it some flex. Fit the barrel extension perfectly and held the barrel enough to tighten down my flash hider. A Wheeler clamshell worked great after I removed the LRBHO to tighten the barrel nut.
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That should work good for the barrel nut. For the muzzle device I guess I could just clamp the barrel in a vice.
Thanks for the input!
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Used the Magpul BEV block for my ar15s, but that’s not gonna work for the 9mm. The clamshells I see are for 15s also. What do you use for barrel and muzzle device install?
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Here's my attempt at it. Wanted to get rid of the finger grooves while I was at it. Dremeled everything down to smooth. Basically just removed the factory texture. Applied the 6hr JB with a popsicle stick, poured over the SiC 60/90, then tapped it in with my finger to get it to set up and get rid of any high spots left by the Popsicle. Removed the tape after an hour, then let sit overnight. This has right at 1000 rounds on the grip. Still nice and grippy. A little wear but no peels or chips.
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Full sizing not needed if you neck size.
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1. I would start out on your single stage to get a feel for it then transfer over to the Dillon later once your comfortable. Your going to have to clean, lube, resize, measure, maybe trim and deburr, maybe swage/ ream
primer pockets, then prime, powder, seat. Crimping is optional. Point being that there’s a lot to potentially do between the sizing stage and the primer seat stage that you don’t have to do with straight wall pistol, so it’s going to be difficult to get going on a progressive without a lot of automated accessories.
You could case prep on the single, then finish up on the Dillon?2. Totally unnecessary
3. By your calibers you noted, I’m assuming an AR or similar. Use full size dies and learn to bump your shoulders for your tightest chamber to reduce brass working and potential accuracy gain.
4. Not really any bad dies. I use Lee dies for 223. They’re nice for the rare but inevitable stuck case. -
Jagerwerks cut it .125 deep. My current front sits .205 above the slide and I can see a lot of it though my optic when the dot is centered. For $40, I may go with the AB standard height set in all black. Their front is at .195 so I should still be able to use it in a pinch.
Thanks for the input!
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My plastic Glock sights are long gone, and the Dawson won't fit with the dot installed. I like the Angry Bears because they are cheap and lower than most. I've had a rifle red dot go out in the middle of a stage, so a usable all black sight in a pinch seems like cheap insurance since I want to fill the slot anyway.
Lots of draw, index, and head posture to do before the first match.
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Agreed. But not looking to solve the problem with irons, only looking for the best solution to fill the empty slots.
So we have 1 vote for standard height sights. Anyone else? -
Recently had my g17 milled for a Swamp Fox Justice for use in local pistol and 2gun matches. Previously had Dawson fiber optic irons but they’re too low and the rear won’t fit with the dot installed anyway.
I’m looking at the Angry Bear tall sights for an inexpensive replacement but haven’t decided on plain front or FO. The red FO can be a bit distracting while trying to find the dot but green is available and my current front sight is too low so it’s throwing me off a bit.
So, go with tall FO to help finding the dot, or go black to make them a bit more invisible?
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I haven’t tried the Berry’s but shot a bunch of Everglades 124 plated with 4.3g of w244. Chronoed at 1050fps from my g17 at 1.150. Nice easy load that even plunks in my cz75b.
Every bullet profile is a bit different though so YMMV. The Everglades 124 fmj would not plunk in my cz at that length, but no problems in the Glocks. -
I’ve been buying 750 135s from Blue this past year. Each time taking 4-5 weeks to arrive. Thought I would bump it up to 2200 on 9/24. Still waiting.
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It seems to get good reviews wherever you can find them, but haven't seen many reviews from the popular YouTube guys. Caught the BF deals and ordered from Ranier Arms. Showed up yesterday. Anyone running the Justice with the outer shield? It's gonna make a big sight even bigger, and like the above post, I've never dropped a gun. But, I've never had anything breakable on a gun. lol
Now have to wait for my G17G4 slide to return from Jagerwerks. $130 for cut and Cerekote. I'll consider myself lucky if it shows up before February.
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As long as you’re not running near maximum charge then you should be fine mixing brass. I’ve chronoed light brass (FC, LC and many others) vs heavy brass (CBC, MEN, and a few others) and found about 90fps difference.
I still run the same charge, but seems sensible to at least separate into 2 weight classes for possible zero shift.
I gave up early on trying to separate by firing count. -
I’ve ordered the 750 packs of 135 TC in May, July, and August. Each have been delivered in 4-5 weeks. The last was ordered 8/10 and delivered 9/18
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I too, have recently started using coated (Blue) after years of plated and FMJs. Shot a couple of hundred through my dirty G17 and G26 this past week. No problems. Cleaned up easily.
A short test, but I have no worries about shooting them.
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Just going from Westerns data. +p has 6.1 max @1150. Judging by my brass, yes you should have room to run if you like.
Rem Golden Saber 124 +p goes 1190 from my g17. Shouldn’t have any problem getting there with TB.
My 5.9/124 has a pf 140My 3.9 w244 w/ 135 TC BLUE has a pf 137
The TB load was noticeably snappier. Similar to factory 124 loads as best as I remember.
Natoreloading has some adventurous loads if you’re looking. -
Picked up 4lb of True Blue from Midway after reading its praise on natoreloading.com.
The powder is a VERY fine ball powder. My Lee Autodrum measure struggled to hold it all in without leaking. W244 is much easier to work with.My first load of 5.9 with 124g plated Everglades at 1.150 gave me 1138 fps with no pressure signs using WSP. ES19 SD7
I have no need to push higher but it seems there’s a little room there.
Glock 17 and CZ75B
Will be trying it with Blue 135TC next -
The Wilson gauge is only concerned with base to shoulder. The neck and body diameters are left loose. You measure your fired case in the gauge so you get an indication of your chamber size. Then just bump your shoulder back .003 or more and your good to go.
My B/A 5.56 barrel measures 1.771 while my BCM 5.56 NM barrel measures 1.768. It’s so consistent that I can gather my brass after shooting and tell which gun it was shot in (probably irrelevant info). I usually set it to 1.765 to minimize working the case. The trick is, when using mixed brass, that the heavier brass (CBC, Norma, MEN) will come out long if I don’t dial in more bump.I haven’t found OAL to be relevant to reliability as long as it will run through the magazines.
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I use the Franklin Arsenal and 2 sifting pans from Amazon. .25 mesh to catch the cases, .01for the pins.
Fill with hot water and a little Dawn. Tumble for 15-20. You can stop there and be fine, or dump most of the dirty water and refill with clean hot water and another small squirt of Dawn. Run for another hour or so. Nice and shiny. I’ve found out that if I don’t dump the dirty water after a short time and just let it run for a couple hours the brass comes out with a tarnished look. Like it’s grinding in the dirt or something. It actually looks better after 20 minutes than after 90. Hmm
Separate using the sifting pans, dump on towel and shake will remove a lot of the water. Then depending on how much of a hurry I’m in, I’ll either let them lay out on towel or hit them with a hair dryer for a few. -
Back to the chronograph. Thought I'd weigh some of my brass just to see how "various" it really is. I know water volume is the proper way, but this should get me ballpark.
On the light end was Federal, LC, Frontier, and Hornady in the 92-93gr. range. CBC 100-101gr. GFL and PPU in the middle around 96-98
While there I picked up some MEN brass from the guy next to me. Weighs 105-106 gr.
All loads were 24.5 grains of my lot of WC846 thrown from a Lee Auto Drum. 5 shot avg. 16" 5.56 barrel. 70 degrees
55 gr. Wolf FMJ. 2.250" COAL. About a 3 MOA load. It is cheap!
FC-2874 ES124 SD44
Frontier- 2882 ES158 SD55
GFL- 2886 ES57 SD24
PPU- 2921ES111 SD39
CBC- 2961 ES71 SD23
Nothing outstanding, much less good, here. Works for me for a cheap practice load
62 gr. Hornady SPBT. Seating to the cannelure with this gets you a COAL of around 2.185. I seated to 2.250
Also 24.5 gr. 1-1.5 MOA!
FC- 2839 ES62 SD29
CBC- 2881 ES71 SD 28
Factory Magtech 62FMJ 5.56 2838fps ES130 SD45
Factory PMC M855 2826 ES56 SD21
Factory Frontier M193 2973 ES63 SD22
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I use 244 all the time with 9mm. Only load I’ve measured was 4.3 with a 124 plated Everglades. 1058 from a G17. A touch faster from my CZ75.
Just tried it with 380 but haven’t chronoed yet. It surely felt more powerful than my usual TG load.
Which Competition Glock Trigger?
in Glock
Posted · Edited by MakBaba
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Just installed the Johnny return spring in my Timney after a friend’s was starting to fail to reset. Figured it’s only a matter of time before mine did the same. This has always been the problem with the Timneys. $11 delivered makes things much better.
Installation can get a bit tight with the slide release spring competing for space, but it all fits.