A_Cardboard_Box
-
Posts
26 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by A_Cardboard_Box
-
-
18 hours ago, Gunsbygiz said:
I have one for my S2 and it’s amazing, honestly worth the wait. Plus I always like to support small businesses that supports the sport we all love, as well as actually compete. Give the guy a break… he really is a super nice guy with a great idea and product.
He is really a nice guy, I got to chat with him at a level 2 for a bit. Not hating on the man at all, just would like my holster
-
25 weeks now.
I texted him on Oct 3 with no response.
-
Waiting 23 weeks here.
-
9 hours ago, Youngeyes said:
Looking this up on the internet I found this,
So, it looks like the primer went off fine and the powder did not ignite. the powder is yellow and clumped together like a rock. i ran into this problem often when wet tumbling my brass. the citric acid in most soaps will contaminate and cause the powder to clump and become inert. Since switching to dry tumbling, ive never had this problem again. how are you cleaning your cases?
ps. based on your pics you have the exact same problem. notice how only part of your powder is yellow. thats the stuff at the bottom of the case that absorbed the soap residue and created a barrier preventing ignitionMost of the ideas about this problem all point to incomplete ignition due to contamination.Sorry for the double post, but that same thread on accurateshooter also points to too deep primer seating.... My head hurts.
-
On 3/15/2022 at 3:38 PM, Nolan said:
I would recommend pulling down the rest of that ammo! Pick up an RCBS collet bullet puller and .22 collet.
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9440-Bullet-Puller-without/dp/B000N8N1YQhttps://www.amazon.com/RCBS-7-35-Bullet-Puller-Collet/dp/B000N8N4BQ
You've already had at least 2 squibs. Pull the ammo down, find out what is causing the problem before something more expensive or painful happens. You'll be able to re-use the bullets and cases if you use the collet bullet puller. If you discover your powder was contaminated or lumps of corn cobb media in the cases, you can re-use the primers, otherwise I would not re-use the primers.
When you know what's causing the squibs, you'll be able to prevent them in the future. If you just keep guessing, I guess you'll have more squibs.
Nolan
Picked up a Forster collet puller so I'll pull em down.
7 hours ago, Youngeyes said:Looking this up on the internet I found this,
So, it looks like the primer went off fine and the powder did not ignite. the powder is yellow and clumped together like a rock. i ran into this problem often when wet tumbling my brass. the citric acid in most soaps will contaminate and cause the powder to clump and become inert. Since switching to dry tumbling, ive never had this problem again. how are you cleaning your cases?
ps. based on your pics you have the exact same problem. notice how only part of your powder is yellow. thats the stuff at the bottom of the case that absorbed the soap residue and created a barrier preventing ignitionMost of the ideas about this problem all point to incomplete ignition due to contamination.So even dry soap residue can contaminate the powder? I would have thought dry tumbling it would have helped that... Well dang. Maybe I need to give up wet tumbling...
-
15 hours ago, AHI said:
Had this happen one time. Any possibility that you got a pistol primer in that case instead of a rifle primer? The powder did not ignite for some reason. Are you sure that the cases are dry? Sometimes it takes more than 15min for Hornady one shot to flash off.(dry)
There might be a very small possibility but I don't think it's likely. The cases are dry, as they get dry tumbled after processing and sit for a while before I load them.
11 hours ago, Farmer said:I thought this too but he states that after dry tumbling they go through the press again with a decapping die. If a chunk was in the flash hole it should have pushed out. I’m almost betting on a contaminated primer some how along the line. I also have seen this on a round that I had dropped the primer on the floor, picked it up and loaded it. I marked it and sure enough it fizzled just like this. It’s almost like the powder gets warm enough to singe the surface but not enough to ignite. Of course if the case was damp that could cause it too. Have dropped some since that time and haven’t had a problem so I don’t know if I had something (lube ect) on my fingers or what. Check your tubes and anything that contacts your primers.
This could have happened. Sometimes primers fly out of the machine if they don't quite get picked up fully by the primer slide, I wonder if I had the same thing happen to me.
To everyone saying corn cob blocked the flash hole - it's possible that there were some pieces that were lurking in the bottom of the cases, didn't get pushed out by the decapping die, and then blocked the flash hole or contaminated the powder I guess. I guess I need to shoot the rest of this ammo and see if any more squibs happen.
-
Quote
May have been a primer which did not fully ignite the powder charge.
So does this happen? My understanding was that primers either go off or they don't. These are #450s bought in the last year, have there been issues with newer primers?
-
Hello,
A few weeks ago I was at the range for rifle practice and unfortunately found myself dealing with a squib. I heard a click, tap/racked and inspected the chamber and it was full of powder, with some of the kernels being weird and yellow. Looking into the case, I saw that there were clumps of yellow powder holding together as well. I have had 2 squibs in the past several months, but had chalked those up to bad reloading practices and forgetting to charge a primed case that I had set aside, as I didn't see any powder when I was trying to clear these malfunctions. The rifles have been a 16" AR and a 12.5" suppressed AR both in 5.56 NATO.
I am totally lost as to the cause of this squib. I've been suggested that it could be powder contamination - However, only 1 out of 90 rounds squibbed that day. If it were contamination, wouldn't that number be much higher? Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
The load recipe is:
Midway Factory Second 55gr .224 FMJBT
24.5gr H335
CCI #450
2.23 OAL
Mixed brass
Light crimp
My process is:
- Wet tumble in a FART with no pins, squirt of dawn and 2x 9mm cases of citric acid
- Dry in dehydrator
- Spray with Dillon Case lube on cookie sheet, wait 15 mins for lube to dry
-
Process on Dillon RL1100
- Universal decap
- Swage
- empty
- empty
- RT1500 with Carbide Dillon Size/trim die
- empty
- Lyman M die
- Dry tumble for 15mins to get lube off
- Gauge cases and primer pockets (No-go Ballistic tools primer pocket gauge)
-
Load on Dillon RL1100
- Universal decap
- Swage
- Prime
- Powder
- empty
- Seat
- Crimp
- Shoot
PS I can't seem to figure out how to embed photos into this post, so any help on that would be appreciated too
-
Yes, I have the larger motor lock ring turned tight, and the die lock ring under the toolhead. My witness marks hadn't moved from their positions.
-
I've been trying to process .223 for a bit now, and I'm about at my wit's end. I'm running mixed brass, so I understand there will be variance, but I was not expecting .012in of variance.
I made sure the toolhead and shellplate were tight, backed the swage die down to contact the shellplate on the downstroke to prevent flex, and I was finally trimming cases to 1.750in pretty accurately. However, the next day, I fire up the press to prep more brass and suddenly I'm getting cases 1.760in and 1.758 long. I have absolutely no idea why this is happening, nothing changed on the press so I'm not sure why the trim length changed overnight.
I have an email in to Dillon, but does anyone have ideas in the meantime?
-
On 6/11/2020 at 3:26 PM, MG08 said:
I had trouble with Wolf on my 550, and decided to not use it. When I started loading on the 1050, ( see my other posts for trouble shooting issues I had) I still had a few wolf cases in the mix of brass, and they did not seem to swage as well- so again I sorted out the Wolf and recycle it. I am still having the issue, but not nearly as often. There may be some ideas in my other string on my 1050 issues.
Interesting, I wonder if the crimp they use is harder to swage out for some reason. I ended up adjusting the swage up so hopefully that will improve things.
-
Hello,
I've been working on dialing my RL1100 in for .223 ammo, and I've been running into a problem. I'm smearing about 8-10% of primers (Winchester Small Rifle).
This is confusing to me, because I am swaging them twice: once on the prep toolhead, and once on the loading toolhead. The prep toolhead has a Mighty Armory swage backer, and the load toolhead has the Dillon swage backup/expander. Both the rounds that I pulled and removed the smeared primers from passed my Ballistic Tools primer pocket gauge.
I am running mixed brass. I know the Dillon recommendation is to sort brass by headstamp, but I've also seen a few guys on here say they run mixed brass through their 1050s without issue. The cases I inspected were both Wolf .223, which was odd because there were several other Wolf .223 cases that primed just fine.
Any ideas? Attached is a pic of how far the swage rod is getting in the pocket, as well as the backup/expander position.
Thank you!
-
On 5/28/2020 at 8:20 PM, the_t0ny said:
I use almost the same load in my shadow 2. Only difference is 1.150 OAL and with the .356 diameter bullets. Spot on accurate.
I've been seeing a lot of mention of the .356 over the .355. Why do you like the .356s? I didn't even know it was an option.
-
135 grain Truncated Cone
Winchester SPP
3.2gr Titegroup
1.1 OAL
Mixed Brass
Haven't put these on paper, but they seem to be plenty accurate even out to 100 yards. Definitely no accuracy issues at standard USPSA ranges. Nets me about 130 PF out of my Shadow 2, 131 PF out of my Glock 17 with a factory threaded barrel.
-
On 5/18/2020 at 3:59 AM, chgofirefighter said:
The RL1100 is a nice upgrade to the 1050, but after loading approximately 5k rounds is 9mm the primer slide cam guide bolt completely sheared on the down stroke leaving me unable to remove this cam bolt Since it requires an Allen key to remove/replace. Somehow the primer assembly struck the cam guide bolt hard enough to break it!
Also, is there an upgraded case insert plunger spring available that can purchased separately? The stock plunger spring does not push the casing into the shell plate correctly. This is another issue that I would like to address.
now I have to somehow drill out this primer assembly guide bolt out. Has anyone encountered this problem before? If so, how was it resolved? Not sure If there’s aftermarket upgrades around for these issues?
Assistance would be greatly appreciated!
thanks!
chgo -
Did you manage to get the bolt out? I found some heat from a heat gun and some vicegrips on the bolt nub got it out very easily. But then again, I had quite a bit to grab onto, not sure what yours looks like.
-
Hello,
In my adventures with setting up the RT1500 for processing .223 on my RL1100, I've noticed the exhaust manifold does not fit with the new, raised washer between the toolhead and the toolhead bolt. The manifold sits cockeyed and the area where the cutter blade trims the cases is left open, letting chips fly everywhere.
Has anyone dealt with this problem yet? Dillon has a modified manifold for the 550 short trim toolhead, I wonder if that would work. I'm thinking of modding it myself, cutting out an area so the manifold can rest around the washer.
Would love to hear anyone's thoughts. Thanks!
-
I forgot I had a heat gun lying around. Few minutes warming it up, and I was able to unscrew it with some channel lock pliers. Thanks everyone!
-
Hello,
I was converting my RL1100 yesterday, and while removing the ratchet my cam guide bolt was incredibly tight... so tight that it completely shattered as I was trying to unscrew it. Needless to say all my toolheads are getting their ratchets removed.
I've been trying clamps, vise grips, pliers, etc to grab it and unscrew it, but nothing seems to be grabbing. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove it? Pic related.
-
On 4/10/2020 at 5:38 PM, AHI said:
OK
Prep head
#3 you need a hold down die to support the case to swage it does not need to expand
a case hold down die from Mighty Armory for example will work or have the rod turned down to not expand.
#7 the m die or equivalent will knock off the flashing left on the inside of the neck left from trimming
Load Head
#3 yes this is wear you will use the Dillon hold down swage a second time two reasons first brass spring back.
or the crimp will just not remove .second this time set for each individual Head stamp.
Many times you can come up with a happy med setting but after you bend /brake a few swage rods you
will learn how to set it and one adjustment does not work 100% of the time.
So I grabbed a mighty armory swage hold-down die so as not to expand on the processing toolhead. Trying to understand here, you mention I should still be using the Dillon swage hold-down on the second pass, but doesn't it do the same thing as the M die with the expansion?
-
On 4/11/2020 at 4:15 PM, L3324temp said:
Mine would lock up about a dozen out of 100 rounds every time I loaded. Even working with Dillon over the phone I was not able to get reliable results with it. My 650 never had this feature and I never make the mistake it is designed to prevent. I took it off and the press runs like a top.So do you just take the ratchet off the toolhead?
-
7 hours ago, SeattleDude said:
Here is how I process mine.
.223 Prep Toolhead
- Casefeed
- Deprime - Lee Universal with F&FB Pin Holster (takes RCBS pins)
- SWAGE ONLY - I use F&FB Swage Rod Backer Only (no neck expanding)
- empty
- empty
- RT1500 - trim/100% size
- empty
- Lyman M Die - setup to flare the neck ever so slightly for Mr.Bulletfeeder
Then dry tumble to remove lube
.223 Load Toolhead
- Casefeed
- Universal Decapper - to clear possible corn cobb from flash hole.
- Empty - remove Swage rod from the press
- Prime
- Powder
- Mr.Bullet Feeder
- Seat
- Crimp/eject
This is great, thank you. In your mind, is the M die better than the Dillon hold-down to expand the neck/flare the case slightly?
-
7 hours ago, SeattleDude said:
I am used to my 650... Smooth up, Smooth Down... I dont understand why Dillon thought they had to put an extra safety on high end press. I dont need extra safeguards and ratchets and extra tuning of those components. Ratchet serves no purpose to me. I pay attention to every round I load and dont just blindly pull the handle. Press runs and feels so much smoother without it
as far as tuning of new RL1100.... Primer Slide would not run well. Even after some cleaning it felt sluggish. Needed some work to smooth the slide channel machining marks.
Thanks for this info. How did you polish the primer slide channel?
-
Why did you take off the ratchet? I've seen a few people do it so I'm wondering if it's an "in the know" mod.
-
Hello,
My RL1100 is due to arrive soon and I'm looking forward to getting it running. There are a few questions I have that I couldn't find answers to in previous 1050 threads, apologies if this is a dupe.
For .223 I'm still trying to finalize my process. Points of concern are in red:
.223 Prep Toolhead
- Casefeed
- 80% size and Deprime
- Swage/Expand: The case neck is going to be resized again in the trimmer, should I skip this and swage/expand on the loading toolhead to work the brass less?
- empty
- RT1500 trim/100% size
- empty
- Lyman M Die: Does the M die essentially do the same thing as the Swage Backup/Expander?
- empty/eject
Then dry tumble to remove lube
.223 Load Toolhead
- Casefeed
- Universal Decapper
- Swage/Expand: If the case has already been swaged, should I disconnect the swager for this step? Or just double swage/expand?
- Prime
- Powder
- empty
- Seat
- Crimp/eject
Appreciate any guidance that you can give me. Thank you!
GX holsters - contact info needed
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
Ha, I was told mine would be shipping out last week. Still nothing....