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cdeland

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Posts posted by cdeland

  1. On 2/23/2020 at 1:55 PM, cdeland said:

     

     

    On 3/8/2020 at 8:24 AM, PhotoRecon said:

    I have the manual roll sizer and I'm  looking for a good source for extra 5mm hex key drivers and the M6 20mm socket head screws used when powering with a drill. 

     

    Has anyone else purchased any?

    PhotoRecon- I found some of the hex screws (stronger material) at Lowes 2 for 98cents per package and I bought a craftsman hex drill attachment which I really like.  Plus being a craftsman it has a lifetime warranty. 

    IMG_0077.JPG

  2. 19 minutes ago, BigEar said:

    Wow, you do have a bulky clamps. I preferred fixed it on the bench as the clamps gets on the way. And I also preferred cordless drill for easy handling.  Just personal preference :D

     

    Yeah, they are bulky.  Since I moved the rollsizer to a different bench I had to use those clamps to work.  I need to make a trip to Harbor Freight for some smaller ones. ; )  I don't have a great work space to permanently fasten it down, thus I need clamps unfortunately.

  3. 31 minutes ago, MNshooter said:


    What drill are you (or others) using? What level of torque is required?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    An inexpensive 6 amp Black & Decker drill with cord.  Ref: level of torque I cannot tell you for sure, but once a case is wedged between the outer wall and the caliber disc, you cannot move it at all with your hands. The drill works very well as does the hand crank, but you can get so much more done with the drill and not be  fatigued.  As stated previously in my earlier posts, I was having some stripping and even had a hex bit snap, but I believe how I have it set up now, in the picture below I will hopefully avoid those issues going forward. 

     

    drill pic.jpg

  4. 1 minute ago, BigEar said:

    Many thanks, but I still wonder how it works because it looks like there are only few holes there.  How to prevent the brass goes in upside down? :D

     

    It has a hole for each cylinder and I rarely get a case that feeds improperly, but it does happen.  It is easy to see in the rollsizer and I just drop it down the tube again.  

     

     

  5.  

    21 hours ago, BigEar said:

    Do you have the file for the case funnel? May I see how that works? :D

     

    BigEar,

     

    This is the one I downloaded and use.  It works for 9mm and 40, but I had a 2nd one made and I used a drummel tool (sandpaper attachment) and opened the holes a little more so the 40 cal case would go in a little easier.   I wish DAA had a similar case feeder for 45acp.    Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496028  If the downloadable file doesn't work for some reason I can always email it to you. 

     

    I just added this YouTube link of a video I created just to display its use.  Not the greatest video, but you'll get the point.

     

    https://youtu.be/UN8msCM_7PY

     

    Part 2

  6. BigEar,

    I have a similar set up like yours with the same case feeder.  I had a friend with a 3d printer make me a case funnel for it and it sure makes loading it a lot easier.  Based on what Kevin Whitehead said a few comments earlier, I just changed the placement of my rollsizer so I can have a better angle to keep the power drill level.  So hopefully that will help with the stripping out issue.

     

     

  7. Quiller, 

     

    I have yet to run into any chamber checker issues once the brass is rollsized and find myself only checking the overall length.  I bought the manual rollsizer and really like it.  If I were to do it all over again though, I think I would probably have bought the motorized version (not the commercial grade-as that is more than I need).  I can really go through a lot of brass with the power drill in the manual version, but I've gone through several of the hex screws (due to stripping) and two hex drill bits. Thankfully I bought a craftsman version of the hex drill bit so if it breaks it gets replaced due to their lifetime warranty.   I also use range brass and the bulged brass can put some torque on those hex screws/bits. 

     

    Still curious if anyone has experienced any bulged 223 Rem brass?

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