cdeland

Glad to help! Good luck!

PhotoRecon- I found some of the hex screws (stronger material) at Lowes 2 for 98cents per package and I bought a craftsman hex drill attachment which I really like. Plus being a craftsman it has a lifetime warranty.

Yeah, they are bulky. Since I moved the rollsizer to a different bench I had to use those clamps to work. I need to make a trip to Harbor Freight for some smaller ones. ; ) I don't have a great work space to permanently fasten it down, thus I need clamps unfortunately.

An inexpensive 6 amp Black & Decker drill with cord. Ref: level of torque I cannot tell you for sure, but once a case is wedged between the outer wall and the caliber disc, you cannot move it at all with your hands. The drill works very well as does the hand crank, but you can get so much more done with the drill and not be fatigued. As stated previously in my earlier posts, I was having some stripping and even had a hex bit snap, but I believe how I have it set up now, in the picture below I will hopefully avoid those issues going forward.

It has a hole for each cylinder and I rarely get a case that feeds improperly, but it does happen. It is easy to see in the rollsizer and I just drop it down the tube again.

BigEar, This is the one I downloaded and use. It works for 9mm and 40, but I had a 2nd one made and I used a drummel tool (sandpaper attachment) and opened the holes a little more so the 40 cal case would go in a little easier. I wish DAA had a similar case feeder for 45acp. Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496028 If the downloadable file doesn't work for some reason I can always email it to you. I just added this YouTube link of a video I created just to display its use. Not the greatest video, but you'll get the point. https://youtu.be/UN8msCM_7PY Part 2

BigEar, I have a similar set up like yours with the same case feeder. I had a friend with a 3d printer make me a case funnel for it and it sure makes loading it a lot easier. Based on what Kevin Whitehead said a few comments earlier, I just changed the placement of my rollsizer so I can have a better angle to keep the power drill level. So hopefully that will help with the stripping out issue.

Quiller, I have yet to run into any chamber checker issues once the brass is rollsized and find myself only checking the overall length. I bought the manual rollsizer and really like it. If I were to do it all over again though, I think I would probably have bought the motorized version (not the commercial grade-as that is more than I need). I can really go through a lot of brass with the power drill in the manual version, but I've gone through several of the hex screws (due to stripping) and two hex drill bits. Thankfully I bought a craftsman version of the hex drill bit so if it breaks it gets replaced due to their lifetime warranty. I also use range brass and the bulged brass can put some torque on those hex screws/bits. Still curious if anyone has experienced any bulged 223 Rem brass?

Anyone purchase the 223 Rem caliber conversion for their manual rollsizers? Curious if anyone had seen any significant brass bulging issues with their 223 brass prior to using a rollsizing unit? https://www.rollsizer.com/product/223rem-5-56nato-for-for-manual-mini-electric-rollsizer/