QUATTROISKING
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Posts posted by QUATTROISKING
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1 hour ago, Whoops! said:
Incorrect information.
Incorrect Awnser...
if you are going to accuse information of being incorrect, provide the corrections..
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That monster looks gorgeous!!
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2 hours ago, Jamese35 said:
I've been running major for quite some time now and I know many others that are using major in their open glock for thousands upon thousands of rounds with out issue.
just out of curiosity why do you say it's only for steel guns? Fill me in please.
for some more info as to me, auto comp gave me pressure spikes that I didn't like at all. Some primers were good others were way flat. Bumped up to HS6 and that ran good, AA7 ran better. Than I tried major pistol, it had the same charge as AA7 in my gun and felt the same but was cleaner. Shooters world claims that major and AA7 are almost identical in burn rate and load data.
let's face it, we are running 9major which is basically a grenade waiting to go off in your hand no matter what gun or powder we run in them.
thanks in advance.
The thickness of the metal in the barrel and the slide is why.
I personally run a Glock in open, but after mountains of research have decided to stay away not only the safety/ reliability factor but in the end the lightness of the gun makes the gun recoil more than 200% more than say a heavy gun like a steel framed 2011, ipsc is shooting alphas as fast as you can and personally the benefit of major gets thrown out the window once you figure the recoil going with it in a Glock platform, you will score better and faster with a minor glock.
I use auto comp and a ported barrel and the gun is stupid flat, which means you can double tap alphas instead of pulling regaining sight picture then pulling again. Now I still have a slide mounted reddot so my sight disappears every time I pull the trigger, but the gun is so flat it goes right back and I can pull again quickly and it sounds like a double tap. Just my personal opinion..if you’re interested in seeing this setup run
follow quattro_ipsc
on Instagram thanks for the listen.
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Major belongs in steel guns don’t risk a hand to try and run major, in a Glock.
#1glock fanboyipsc_quattro ( Instagram)
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It’s barrel figment obviously, when hand racking you aren’t going to generate the same force as you can while the gun is going its recoil process.
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Remington 147grain 9mm
will blow you’re mind as it did mine.
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This may be a dumb question but running through a top end svi major gun using wac 9mm
i can use all range brass I pickup correct? Or do I need new brass to reload 9mm major
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Been testing dots and right now the bushnell first strike 2.0 beats the rest and the fact that’s it’s 200$ is awesome!
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6 hours ago, Bad_Karma said:
Thanks for posting the pics. I like the size of the window...it reminds me of the Sig Romeo3xl
Is dot on the 2.0 does appear dimmer in the pics. Is that just the settings on the mrds’s or the camera angle?
On my 2.0 the dot is very bright the high setting would it be a problem for anyone even brighter than my vortex venom
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10 hours ago, Shmella said:
Mine was the dimmest red dot of all the mini dots and not even close in brightness to any others out there. I’m surprised ppl are saying the dot is bright enough. Brightness id rank it dead last
You must have gotten something else my 2.0 is super bright
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3 hours ago, belus said:
I think getting into the metallurgy of it and being worried about the temperature is a distraction. Yes, the steel might change a little at the 400-600C while the coating is applied, but I don't think it changes enough to be a concern. I suspect most barrels are already annealed for stress relief after machining, and in the paper on 4140/4150 above, the alloy never got below a Rockwell C hardness of 30 which is considered acceptable for barrels. In my searching, it seems the best quality TiN films were deposited at about 400C.I'll attach the two important files to this post to inform future searchers.
In short, I think it's probably a worthwhile thing to do. In high-stress high-temperature applications (drill bits) TiN improves the useful life of 4140 by 7x, and that's also a common US barrel alloy. It improves the life of stainless steels by even more. And it doesn't change the dimensions of the part, being only 0.0001" thick.
TiN is probably a good anti-corrosion coating too.
If you don't like the gold color opt for blackish Ti-Al-N, it's apparently even more wear resistant.
1993 Zhang - TiN coating tool steel.pdf 775.88 kB · 0 downloads
Thank you very much for all you’re input greatly appreciated
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1 hour ago, belus said:
You're right and I agree with you on all the core points being discussed in this thread.
If you have the time/patience I'll try to briefly explain how I think you and Giancarlo (QUATTROISKING) are both correct about the annealing temperature. It mostly comes down to annealing being an imprecise word.
Steel is complicated metallurgically and I don't deal with the metallurgy on a regular basis. You're correct that annealing temperatures for steel are much higher than 250C. But there are heat treating processes used at much lower temperatures (as low as 150C) and this is sometimes called annealing, though it might be more accurate to call it tempering.
Above about 730C all of the carbon is dissolved in the iron in what's called Austenite steel. When it cools to room temperature the carbon precipitates out and these precipitates control many of the steel's properties. How fast you cool the austenitic steel determines how large, where, and what shape the carbon-rich crystals are. Usually when someone talks about annealing steel they mean heating it above 730C to dissolve all the carbon back into the iron.
Annealing or tempering at lower temperatures doesn't redissolve the carbon in the iron, but it does make it more mobile so it can diffuse between the iron atoms. This mostly makes the precipitates larger and take up more volume. This carbon-rich region of the steel is called Bainite (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bainite), and once it takes up more than about 50% of the volume it improves the hardness and strength of the metal by significant amounts. The first paper I linked to were studying how long it took to form Bainite at different temperatures in 4150. It was just an example I found of "annealing" data at 250C.
The curves on all the Temperature v Time plots usually represent how long fully-annealed Austenite needs to remain at temperature to form a specific carbon-rich crystal morphology as there's more than just Bainite and Austenite. Sometimes cooling rates are plotted on the same plots so people can estimate how fast they need to cool an annealed part to get or avoid a specific microstructure.You lost me
great knowledge would it be greedy to ask a spoon fed question? Lol
what temperature would the coating need to be under Temperature wise to run the titanium comp and steel barrel for gold nitride coating
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I love when people say or make comments about open gun having no kick lol just goes to show how many people have actually shot an open major gun.
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53 minutes ago, PrimaryBruce said:
OP, I don't know who told you that...and I'm certainly NOT a PVD expert, as a lot of the science bend it is certainly above my head. But our PVD vendor processes TiN at a lower temp than nitride. And I've never...ever, ever hear of anyone complain about nitride parts being "brittle."
Steel starts annealing around 250*c
titanium starts stress release at 538*c and starts annealing at 700*cso you would need to be under these numbers for tin coating safety if you do find a company that does this a good amount under these numbers please let me know lol
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1 hour ago, Silent said:
Hasn’t SVI been TiN costing barrels/comps/small parts for years without issue? I have a single stack gun with a TiN coated barrel and no issues. Just go to there website and see all the guns like that.
You are completly correct they have a different method of application which is a tightly held secret, they won’t give out/ no one else known is doing, he addressed that to me also lol
good for them I would do the exact same thing as anyone would but it sucks that the gun can’t be a reliable work horse and good looking at the same time.
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2 hours ago, hurley326 said:
I have no idea but I have seen an Atlas with this exact combo.
That’s the exact I was going to go lol not anymore now not to sure what to do all black or all natural/ ss
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Hey guys in the middle of picking and choosing through colour combos for the new open blaster being built I wanted to go with a gold tin coating on the barrel, comp and hammer but was told not to even go near this option as the heating of the titanium comp and barrel to apply the coating ( or something along these kinds he described) makes it too brittle and and comps explode/break/crack along with the barrel under major pf...
does anyone know of a coating that negates this problem to get the gold look?
also this builder that will remain nameless is insanely experienced, built multiple guns for the best shooters of all time and knows his stuff to say the least and even had a position working for a very top tear company that builds the best open guns in the world.
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A thumb-rest gives you less muzzle rise and let’s you track the dot without it disappearing, the older guys that swear by not using them are the same guys that refuse to drive an auto dragracing car, and say stick is better. A thumb rest has many many advantages with zero disadvantages!
more weight on the pistole = less felt recoil impulse, also gives you good grip you’re hands are locked In, index point it will give you the same grip everytime you draw the gun, recoil control, gives you’re gun more reliability also because it stops you’re thumb from riding on the slide which would slow down the slide and cause a malfunction.
like said above if you can use it, do it’s a huge advantage. -
Vortex venom have had mine slide mounted for the past year have around 10k on it and she works beautifully
Flat shooting G34
in Open Pistols
Posted
The best thing you can do for a flat shooting gun is shoot more ammo, and do some hand strengthening, most noticeable difference there.