Garrett
-
Posts
634 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Garrett
-
-
Uvex makes safety glasses designed to fit over perscription glasses. I believe they can be had in a variety of shades.
-
I sent my 15 year old SDB to dillon for a rebuild. They didn't mess around - they just replaced it. The only out of pocket expense was for me to ship to them. Customer service doesn't get much better than that.
-
It's not a problem. I bought some factory 10mm mags from Glock (at a GSSF match) and they did not have the bottom plate. They came from the factory this way. I asked the Glock armorer at the match about it. He said not to worry about it and it wasn't a problem.
I did eventually get some floor plates for these mags, but I never had a problem shooting the mags without them.
-
I haven't used a block & tape, but the strap-on variety work just as well. The block & tape would work just as well, and cost less too. It would just be a little more messy if you try to remove it. One thing to make sure of is to check out the mags after clamping them together to be sure they still function. I imagine it's possible to squeeze them too much and make them unreliable.
I stagger mine by about 1". You want to stagger them enough that the right mag won't interfer with your ejection port cover when the left mag in installed. See below.
You generally want to start with the right mag in first. This way, when you change mags it's not in the way of the bolt-release button, as it is here.
-
I don't believe you can go from a 9mm slide to a 40 S&W.
Like Fireglock said, it's okay if it's a newer 3-pin 9mm frame. I've got a G35 upper that I move around between 9mm & .40 frames (all 3-pin). I haven't had any problems. I haven't ever changed the ejector and still have not had any problems. The 9mm & .40 ejectors are apparently close enough that it doesn't seem to make any difference in performance.
-
A locking bolt is not necessary if you plan on leaving the dies set up in the toolhead. I've read here and other places that it's not a bad idea to locktite (blue-removable) your dies into the toolhead. Otherwise they can loosen up after several thousand rounds. This is true with the Dillon lock nuts, or any other lock nut. The locking bolt won't effect this. That is there to keep the nut at the same location on your die (keep your die setting from changing) when you remove it from the toolhead/press.
The calibers I load a lot get set up once in the toolhead and then the dies aren't ever removed. (the Dillon dies are great for cleaning, and keeping your settings) The powder and seating depth get adjusted, but the dies stay in. It's worth it to me to pay for another toolhead setup rather than change dies and settings all the time.
The single-stage press is another matter. I use that for calibers I don't reload all that much. There it is essential to have some kind of locking ring on the die so your settings don't change.
I was somewhat suprised after first looking at them, but the Lee nut stays put very well. It simply uses a rubber O-ring and is very effective. The RCBS is my least favorite. It threads a brass allen head bolt straight into the die threads. The brass allen socket tends to strip out, and it is sometimes difficult to screw it in tight enough to keep the nut in place on the die. I like Horniday's nut the best. It has a split nut with a cross bolt, much like the Forsters shown. But I like the flats that give the option to use a wrench on the Horniday's, which won't work on the Forsters.
-
The Tripp 10 round 10mm/.40 mags are noticably shorter than the standard .45 SS 10 rd. mags. Do they fit in the IDPA box? Anyone ever check it out?
Has anyone ever figured out what the maximum mag length is that will fit in the box?
-
Okay. So now is the Supercomp brass made to the Super spec or to the +P spec?
-
Is there actually any difference between Starline's (and the other manufacturers for that matter) .38 Super and .38 Super +P brass other than the headstamp?
-
I have been using Win brass in Super (a bunch of new brass came with the gun), and Starlind Supercomp. I usually loose the brass before it gets worn out.
My gun doesn't seem to have any preference using rimmed or rimmless. Once in a while the rimmed brass will hang up in the mag. I usually practice with rimmed and shoot matches with rimless.
Whenever I do end up having to buy brass again, I'll probably get it from Starline. If it is only a couple of dollars more than Rem / Win brass, what are you really out? I would rather pay a little more to someone who supports the Sport. I recently picked up a brass gift cirtificate donated by Starline at a local match.
-
I find that, while pasters work great for a match, I prefer tape for practice. I will usually shoot several times at a target in practice before I tape. With tape, I can tear off long strips and cover multiple holes.
I have also used the wide (2") brown packing tape for practice before too. Lately, I have not been able to find it though. What I used was a paper-backed tape (like the regular "rolls" of tape). The color matched great. Now all I can find is a plastic-backed tape that doesn't match very well.
The wide tape also works great for covering shotgun holes from slug stages.
-
PACMAN - Most dies are flared out a little at the bottom of the die to help the case enter easier. The case is not sized in this area, but it is at the base of the case where the brass is thickest and shouldn't expand. SB dies size a little farther down the case.
Maybe someone can explain it a little better though.
-
KURTM - Sounds like a good place to start. But my barrel has no problems with factory ammo. If it was a tight throat, I would think the factory ammo would show problems as well.
-
I have had a similar problem with reloads in my Bushmaster barrel. I switched to SB dies, and the problem persists. It is not so much a problem of the case not going all the way into the chamber. But if I chamber a live round and don't shoot it, it is very difficult to pull the charging handle back and extract the live round from the chamber. It can be a pain at the end of a stage to unload and show clear at times.
I have tried loading once-fired brass and older, Fired from my chamber and others. I have made sure to trim the cases so they are not too long. Maybe it's the die setting at the shoulder.
But for the time being, I am just shooting factory ammo. That doesn't seem to have any problem.
-
I don't have any experience with the .45 mags, but the 10 round 10mm/.40 mags work great.
That being said, I still use McCormic mags in my SS .45
-
I switched to the CR (world cup model with the adjustable hanger) after trying the Limcat & pinned ghost. Retention on the other two was too good sometimes. They would bind on the draw if I didn't get them just right. The CR doesn't seem to have that problem. The lock isn't as quick to disengage on the draw as the other two, though.
Actually, I really like the feel of my Safariland 011, but don't feel that secure with it. I use a sissy-strap with it when I'm not actually shooting.
I do like the Safariland mag pouches much better than the CR version.
-
My JP has a bit of a bead blasted look, but it is a long way from failing.
-
Sorry. Brain fart here. I was thinking of my Super.
Yeah, 26 is the most I've heard of in a STI/Para big stick. Of course the Para factory (standard length) mags will hold more ammo than the STI (standard length) due to the angle of the taper at the top of the mag. Back when, I had heard of people cutting and welding two Para mags into one big stick. I had heard of welded together Para factory .38 Super mags holding 33+1. Something done up like this might hold 28 or so in .40.
There is a guy that goes by the name Bustoff on subguns.com that has been cutting/welding subgun mags together. Makes 60+ round STEn mags, as well as others. I have heard nothing but good reports about his work. I'm considering sending some steel M-11 mags to him to make up a really big stick for my full-auto race gun. I don't see why he couldn't do up a Para mag this way.
-
26 nothing. My STI for Para big stick holds a tight 29+1 with the new Grams basepad/spring/follower. I usually only load 28 because it's really hard to seat when fully loaded.
-
Beating GM's with equipment instead of skill: priceless
Ha! Yeah, what he said.
-
There was an article in Small Arms Review a couple of years ago about Paki gun manufacturing. Pretty interesting. STEn guns chambered for 7.62x39. Thompson receivers made from a piece of railroad track using hack saws and files. Pretty interesting.
-
A while back, there was an article in Front Sight about installing a screw in the front of the Glock trigger bar to get rid of the trigger take-up. While this may or may not be a good idea (because it can override some of the gun's internal safeties) I wanted to do the same thing at the rear of the trigger bar as an overtravel stop. Anyone remember what size machine screw they used make this mod?
-
Yeah, what stingerjg said. I bought a couple of Tripp Cobra mags from Chuck @ ShootersConnection last summer. They run flawlessly in either .40 or 10mm guns. Hold 10+1, and are a little shorter than my McCormick 10 rd. 45 mags. Drop free & lock the slide.
There is a different mag for the STI singlestack guns. The mag release notch is slightly different.
-
The idea behind the low mass bolt carrier is supposedly that it gives a smoother feel, due to less weight slamming back and forth during the recoil cycle. This is the same reason for lightening the slide on a pistol. One problem with a lightened bolt carrier are that the lighter material will often wear out and need replacement much sooner than a steel carrier.
I have recently been playing with different weights of buffers to alter the cyclic rate of a full-auto. It got me thinking about the AR recoil system. The weight of the bolt carrier contributes to the felt recoil, but so does the weight of the buffer. Would it not be easier to reduce the weight of the buffer, and get similar results as reducing the weight of the carrier?
Small base dies
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Kurt,
Should a bullet be able to drop into a fired case? I would think that would be a bit loose.
I'll be in Chicago the day before the MS 3-gun. Makes for a bit of a drive. I might still be able to swing it, though. I'll have to see when we get closer, if it hasn't sold out by then.