CZFanGrrl
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Posts posted by CZFanGrrl
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On 8/12/2020 at 7:16 PM, Overscore said:
Please talk me into getting a Shadow 2 and equipping it with the spare Trijicon SRO I have lying around. Also, please convince me that I should not just get one, but that I should also have ________________________ done to it by _____________________, or I should get the _________________ kit from ______________________ to make it a little better than it is out of the box.
By those blank lines, I'm talking about the things I've heard about but never really paid much attention to, such as pro kits from Cajun, or some sort of custom work from CZ-Custom. Assume that I don't care what the cost of anything is, what are the best things I can do with a Shadow 2 to make it my ideal gun for carry optics? I've been playing the IDPA and USPSA games for years, but always just shot my carry guns, a normal 75B and an 85 Combat that I got milled for an optic when the CO USPSA division eliminated the capacity limits. I'm thinking about breaking the rules I established for myself a long time ago and getting a gun whose sole purpose is competition, although I won't be surprised if I just wind up using the S2 as my every day carry.
So, please spend my money and guide me.
I have exactly that set up. Optic Ready Shadow 2 and Trijicon SRO 5 MOA and Optic Ready Shadow 2 and Leupold Delta Point Pro 7.5 MOA. I just talked you into buying one. I started off shooting with a Shadow 2 non-optic and as soon as the Optic Ready came out in Canada in January 2019, I bought one; then I bought another in August. Why? Because I don’t ever want to be without one. And then, just to take things just a bit further, I taught myself how to completely disassemble one, replace parts, do a trigger job, polish the action, not once but twice and then I started doing other people’s S2’s and talking them into buying an optic ready but the reality is, the gun sold itself when I let them shoot it. You shouldn’t have anything done to it that you can’t do yourself. Working on the gun is a piece of cake and incredibly easy. Do a trigger job yourself. Easy. Polish the action. Easy. Install a competition disconnector. Easy. And when you buy your Optic Ready S2, let me talk you into some LOK Grips, change your life, I swear.
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2 hours ago, AHI said:
HP-38 is 231
Right, I already ascertained abou that far. More curious about what’s similar to ASP as there isn’t much for load data on the 158gn bullets. Thanks for answering though.
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On 5/21/2017 at 11:04 PM, noylj said:
L-SWCs feed in all my 9x19 guns, including pre-WWII P-08 Lugers and WWII P-38s. COL is usually the secret (or adjusting the mag lips, but I've never had to).
Use 147gn lead start loads and work up.
I've shot a lot of 158gn L-SWCs made for .38 Spl quite successfully and accurately. Better than most 147gn bullets.
I know this is an OLD thread, but I recently got some 9mm 158gn Campro RNFP bullets and Alliant Sport Pistol Powder, both new to me, typically I’m reloading 9mm 147gn Campro RNFP bullets with Win 231 and these shoot really well out of me Shadow 2, but recently switched to Alliant Sport Pistol Powder with the 147s and these also work well, but I’m curious about the 158’s and wondering if you have any load data on them. I believe the HP-38 is similar to 231, and the starting load for that is 2.9gn to 3.1gn and so I’m thinking since VVn320 is similar to 231, then I might start with 2.6gn of ASP and work my way up from there. Thoughts?
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On 2/15/2020 at 2:40 PM, Blue Jacket said:
Spare guns much easier even if it’s not the same as your Shadow. Making range repairs isn’t easy.
List looks good. Only thing I would add is some spare fiber optic. If you have a FO sight. I’ve broke a few of those over the years
Agreed, I’d want my gunsmithing kit handy (which would include at the very least, hammer, bench block, punches, towel) to do a TRS. I’ve lost a FO at practice once, but since I’m shooting Optics with my S2, it didn’t make much difference, but I did find it a distraction in itself, not having it there.
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16 hours ago, DrMark said:
Looks like I am set then for likely spare parts needed. I also have the floating trigger pivot pin because heard they like to walk out after removal to replace pin and trigger and trigger return spring.
If you have the floating trigger pin by CGW, walkout shouldn’t be an issue as the spring tension of the TRS is enough to keep it in place, it’s narrower in the middle. I’ve replaced (upgraded) the TRS on all my Shadows and am pretty competent at gunsmithing, but I doubt I’d be able to get one replaced at the range during a match in time to make the next stage. Firing pin spring and recoil spring are easy enough to replace.
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2 hours ago, hal1955 said:
6 hours ago, CZFanGrrl said:
I’m under the impression that the recoil spring in combination with the amount of powder you’re loading is what determines how the slide cycles. Loading lower power loads for me has translated into less recoil, but is less recoil = to softer recoil? For me, the less recoil meant slower recoil with reduced power loads (loads at the very low end of what will still cycle a slide).
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The hammer spring also affects “perceived recoil” to a degree since it has to be compressed to cock the hammer as the slide moves rearward. I dont feel much if any push backwards in recoil but I do notice muzzle jump. i find that heavier bullets seem to have less muzzle jump than lighter bullets.
Interesting, so a lighter hammer spring would be easier to compress then? I like the 147s for my comp loads and the 124 JHP for steel matches and practice, but I think I’m going to just load 147’s for everything once I’m through the 124’s. I’ve been told I manage the recoil well on the Shadow 2, but it can always be improved. I ordered the extended safety for both and the flat slim short slide lock pin for both.
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15 minutes ago, Lior said:
Previous broken red dots with 9lb recoil springs have not left me too adventurous with cheaper sights, so I'm sticking to the 14 lb factory recoil spring to max out red dot longevity with factory ammo (mostly S&B).
So I’m pretty new to “gunsmithing”, I can change out all the parts, but tuning the gun with the different springs is another matter and a lot of it for me is trial and error. How does a 14# recoil spring affect what ammo you can run through it? I use Federal Primers only in my loads because I choose to run an 8.5# main spring, but I didn’t think the recoil spring had anything to do with primer ignition. I’m under the impression that the recoil spring in combination with the amount of powder you’re loading is what determines how the slide cycles. Loading lower power loads for me has translated into less recoil, but is less recoil = to softer recoil? For me, the less recoil meant slower recoil with reduced power loads (loads at the very low end of what will still cycle a slide). This is the part I find most interesting, is the physics behind it all and will be doing some comprehensive testing this spring. What would be considered a cheaper sight? In my optic line up, I paid the least for a Venom, middle of the road for a Leupold and a lot for the SRO.
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2 hours ago, hal1955 said:
Funny how people prefer different springs. i tested my S2 OR with Venom 6moa with 8-9-10-12-14# springs and a few clipped springs. I was surprised, 14# suits me best. Dot barely moves and settles perfectly for me. 147 grain bullet. Splits are about.20 at 15m with A hits.
I’m going to end up doing a full test on the various springs, this spring, it’s bloody cold right now. I did some tests already with the CGW 10 vs stock and the gun settles quicker with the 10#, I have a video with 1” lines marked on a back board to show the difference. What load are you running with your 147’s? I’m using 231 3.5gn. Are your older version S2’s showing any signs of frame cracking? Mine did, warrentied for a new one. The optic ready S2’s have been milled with a relief for the slide stop.
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6 hours ago, Lior said:
After having two early generation Shadow 2s with dovetail plates, I got the Optics Ready version, which costs about 25% more than a new ordinary S2. Is the difference justified? Oh yes! I've been using a Vortex Venom sight, which was easy to install as the mounting plate came with the right screws enclosed. The proximity of the dot projection to the bore axis means correcting elevation for different ranges is much easier than for a dovetail mounted dot. Co-witnessing is a plus too. If I can nitpick the gun, the only thing that is not ideal is the scarcity of adapter plates for different optics (a CZ marketing decision, hopefully soon to be rectified by Toni System). As a side project to enjoying IPSC, I'm running my first Vortex Venom to find out its MTBF, using a stock recoil spring. Based on the result I'll either get an identical gun, or switch to SRO or another holy grail red dot (whose adapter plates I haven't been able to find yet). Should be interesting.
Ouch! 25% more? I picked one of mine up in Jan 2019 for $1199 CDN and the second one in September for $1149 CDN from Tenda Canada on sale. My non-optic I pais $1249. The early model S2 came with dove tail rear sight? That’s a cool research project you’re undertaking with the optic. The nice thing with Vortex is their no quibble like time warrenty. Personally I hate the SRO and don’t enjoy shooting it as much as the DPP with the Delta reticle, but that’s just preference, the SRO is a bomber optic. CGW had at one time created a multi-optic mounting plate, but no longer. I think because the optic S2is too heavy for USPSA and has not been sold in the USA as of yet that I know of. What recoil spring are you planning on using after your test? I’ve got a 10lb progressive currently and a 9lb coming.
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2 hours ago, Uomu said:
I shoot IPSC Production with my Shadow 2. Due my age I wear glass for reading (+1.25 dioptree) and when there is not enough light or the targets are too far, I have some bad results ...... as a consequences of not seeing well the front sight. I m thinking that shooting in Production Optics with Shadow 2 will solve this issues.
For this I will need a new pistol or only a new mounted plated. Here is prohibited milled the slide. So please tell me the diferences between the Shadow 2 Optical Ready and Shadow 2 regular with mounted plated for red dot. If I ll buy the Shadow OR will give me some notable benefits over my curent one with the new mounted plated?
The CZ Shadow 2 Optic Ready has been a game changer for me and I notice a lot of my “older” shooting friends all are gravitating toward optics. Which is great. Like you I need to wear glasses, both for distance and reading, but I don’t wear bifocals for shooting. I wear my glasses for seeing the targets in the distance and the glasses don’t affect seeing the dot of the optic at all. When I first started shooting optics my speed dropped down significantly, but my accuracy improved dramatically. My speed with the dot acquisition is starting to catch up now. At one time I had two optic ready Shadow 2’s and one non-optic Shadow 2 and I ended up selling the non-optic because I just didn’t shoot it anymore. I currently have one optic ready running a Trijicon SRO 5MOA and another running the Leupold DPP 7.5MOA. Plus my P09 got milled for an optic, which is running a Vortex Venom 6 MOA. I love optics and would never go back to iron sights. Younger shooters with good vision, don’t always understand how much our eyesight starts to affect us older shooters, especially in lower light conditions. So, if you switch to the optic ready Shadow 2, you can ditch your reading glasses you won’t need them any longer. I have a ton of videos on my Youtube Channel under the same same, on the optic ready Shadow 2 and my various optics.
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3 hours ago, hal1955 said:
Cut the spring with side cutters. Bend the cut part back so that it will not gouge anything. Done.
Awesome! That’s easy. Thank you!
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6 hours ago, WxGuy said:
I'm running a 9lbs recoil spring, 8.5 HS for Fed primers only, 11.5 HS for all other primers, and the Rami firing pin spring with the CZC extended firing pin. 100% with Fed primers and the DA on my Shadow 2 is below 5lbs (Super polished w/8.5 HS), I added a Tanfo sear spring (one extra coil) to up the SA to 3lbs. Took some nifty fitting and went through 3 of them before I got the angles right. CGW adjustable sear with spacer. DA and SA as close together as I could make it. S2 internal work is my benchmark for all my other CZ builds/projects. I use 125g and 147g projectiles w/Fed primers from NC Shooters.
When the above was performed on my CTS LS-P, the result was 5.2 DA and 2.9 SA w/8.5HS. The recoil spring is below 9 with an extra coil cut off the S2 setup. This is my Production backup and my IDPA SSP or ESP gun. These guns are fun to work on and you must be patient. I can't wait for the DWX in 40 to come out!
Thanks for the share! I have a spare stockpile of springs to experiment with. How are you dealing with the end of the cut coil? I can’t imagine you’re running it as an open coil? Sorry if this is a dumb question. As a metalsmith, I’d probably anneal the cut end, close it up and then re-harden the spring by tumbling in steel media (and then hope it works).
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8 hours ago, slavex said:
having received Robi's and Greg's care packages I can state they both have the same, or at least a perfect copy, of the light firing pin spring in their kits.
Thanks! Online store address?
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1 hour ago, slavex said:
As far as I know only Robin has the proper light firing pin spring, it's the CZUB one that was a standard part of the Canadian Shadomate (Orange editions may have had them too), it is a much longer and thinner wire spring. Hit me up at a match I have em too.
Cool! Thank you for the offer.
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2 hours ago, slavex said:
I don't use the 8.5# spring in my match gun as it won't make 5lb weight limit for Production. But with the super light firing pin spring from Robin Sebo I have zero issues with all the various primers. I never use extended firing pins though.
So the super light firing pin spring is different (even lighter) than the CGW RP FPS? I’m wondering if that’s the case with the Wolff firing pin spring that’s included with their 11lb recoil spring? I installed that kit into my buddies S2, no extended firing pin and he’s setting off CCI primers with that combination, I couldn’t do that with the 11.5# CGW main spring in mine, with the CGW RPFPS, but I was also using the extended firing pin as well in combination.
I’ll have another look in Cesar-Shop for the SLFPS and tack it on to the RRK order when they have them back in stock. Here I’m getting to the part that I find challenging. Polishing parts is one thing,, but tuning is quite another. I’m really happy with the way I have my gun set up at the moment; light smooth D/A, reliable, but if I can take it even further, I’m all in, Thank you for the additional information!
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2 hours ago, GMP said:
If you do the reach reduction kit the 8.5# will be too light in DA, as the arc of the hammer swing is slightly reduced. I have the RRK plus all the other CGW parts, all mating surfaces buffed out. With an 11.5# its very nice, worth more to me than a lighter trigger farther forward.
This is great information. I found the 7.5# pull weight already a marked improvement using the 11.5# hammer spring. This makes for great options for tuning then using the RRK. Thank you for the info!
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3 hours ago, igolfat8 said:
Are you still using the 8.5# main spring? Any issues igniting Winchester or Federals? Have you ever tried the 10# CZC spring for comparison ? I’m using the CGW 11.5# in mine but just ordered an 8.5# to try.
Excellent videos BTW and thanks for sharing them with us.
Thank you igolfat8! I’m hoping Shadow2 owners are finding them useful/helpful.
I’m still using the 8.5# main spring, 100% ignition with Federal primers. Less reliability with Winchester, one in 20 may fail to ignite. Significantly less reliability with CCI primers 4 in 20 fail to ignite. I didn’t know CZC made a 10# hammer spring, I’ve not seen them available in Canada and we can’t order them from CZC either. The CGW #11.5 increased the D/A to 7.5 lbs trigger pull from 10.5# stock, I’m getting 5 - 5.5# D/A with the 8.5# CGW main spring. I’m sticking with the 8.5# and the 10# recoil spring. That combo cycles my 231 3.4gn with 147 Campros really well. I do have a progressive 10# and a progressive 11# recoil spring coming from Cesar-Shop and I’m curious to try them out.
I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the 8.5#, but be aware of this, I ran a box of Federal American Eagle through the gun and did run into some light strikes and failure to ignite. I contacted Federal and they explained that the Federal Factory primers might be set a little deeper in the primer pocket than my reloads, they said that primers are set by feel, you can certainly crush those Federal Match primers deep into the pocket and a finger nail is hard enough to leave an indent. Polishing makes everything glide.
Be sure to run the extended firing pin and reduced power firing pin spring with the 8.5#, I haven’t tested it without those two things, so not sure if the stock will ignite the primers. On another note, I did an on the spot spring change on my buddy’s S2 at the range (with the 11.5#main and the 11# recoil - no extended firing pin or reduced power FPS) and he was setting off reloads with CCI primers 100% ignition), go figure. 7.5# trigger pull.
Be interested to know how that works out for you! Thanks again!
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12 hours ago, yigal said:
He probably gets tired of getting used to a new sh2 frame every few months.
Yeah, bummer for him!
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15 hours ago, slavex said:
Robbie Cernigoj is Cesar-shop, in Slovakia, good guy and used to be a CZ team member before going to Bul. I just brought back a ton of stuff from him and Robin Sebo as CZfangirl states, getting CZ stuff in Canada blows.
Quite like the strips you use to polish in the various areas. Neat, never thought of using jeweler stuff on my guns.@slavex Rob, thank you for the correction on his name being Robert, not Richard. My apologies to Robert Cerigoj! I only saw the name once, memory like a sieve, it’s an age thing.
Cesar-Shop is awesome to buy from, takes a little bit longer to get here, by maybe a week, but shipping is far more competitive than Canada and I think the prices end up being better as well, even with the exchange rate. Finding CZ/CZC/CGW parts in Canada is like a full time job.
Yup, jeweler’s tools work perfectly. They’re scaled down and use better products for polishing than typical automotive options. Pick up some 3m polishing films, layer it with the string tape and away you go; the finish is amazing.
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If you hear me talking about the hammer while I’m pointing to the trigger and vis versa, that’s my medical condition talking not me,
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10 hours ago, Hansb57 said:
I'm wondering at what point you guys decide to install a longer firing pin and weaker spring.
I had it in and it dragged the primer and had a secondary contact point in the primer as if it bounced and hit the primer twice.
I took it out and put the original in and never had a problem with it.
My trigger pull in SA is 1280 grams (2.1 lbs) I dont shoot it in DA.
What brand primers are you using? My single action runs about 2.25#. With an 8.5# hammer spring, I’m running the extended firing pin and reduced power firing pin spring, I’m using Federal primers, 100% ignition. My friend is running the 11.5# hammer spring, no extended firing pin or spring in his Shadow, his will ignite CCI primers. That’s all I know about that.
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37 minutes ago, EarlKeese said:
Good thing we have youtube experts to keep us "gunsmith" morons in line.
Yeah! Where are they??
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59 minutes ago, GrumpyOne said:
Yeah! That was sugar coated!
Not a big fan of sugar coating....cavities, diabetes, obesity.
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37 minutes ago, belus said:
What does Cesar-Shop mean?
I have no idea. Julius Cesar, Cesar Salad? Ask Richard, he’s the owner. They’re in Eastern Europe, Slovaki I think and that’s the name of the store. We have a hard time getting CZ parts in Canada, impossible to buy direct from CZC or CGW.
Optic Ready CZ Shadow 2
in CZ
Posted
Yes, a lighter hammer spring is easier to compress, but you also run the risk of light primer strikes and may be required to run an extended firing pin and soft firing pin spring and/or Federal Primers. Having said that, I recently did some work on a well broken in 85C that had over 40,000 rounds through it, everything was worn; the hammer hooks, the sear, the safety and all needed to be replaced in order to get it to function. My friend was running a 13 pound main spring in it and for fun, I threw in an 11# main spring to see if that would lighten up the trigger which was actually exception with the 13 pound spring, running about 8.5# in D/A and 3# in S/A. I didn’t have anything other than S&B primers to test it against and with a sub 7# D/A and a 2# S/A it was setting off S&B primers which are a lot like CCI, hard. The internals of the 85C were action polished to perfection and so there was no resistance anywhere allowing everything to cycle perfectly. I’m now onto 158gn’s with 2.95 - 3.0gn of Alliant Sport Pistol, very nice shooting combo.