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JohnS23

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Posts posted by JohnS23

  1. 7 hours ago, Posvar said:

    I took a class with Chris Tilley a couple weeks ago and the very first thing he noticed was that my grip strength was inadequate. He uses the push/pull method but a strong grip is essential. After a few drills and some practice I could see the results with fine group shooting and fast follow ups etc. It works. It is also fatiguing for me and will require work and dry fire.

     
    Does he recommend gripping hard with both hands while push/pulling? He seems to shoot really flat with his recoil.

  2. Hi, I was just wondering if anyone can share their load data for CZ Shadow 2? I just recently purchased one and I came from a Glock. I noticed while during the plunk tests, all bullets do not fit anymore on the CZ’s

     

    I currently load my glocks using:

     

    3.6 Gr - Titegroup

    125 Gr - Gallant Bullets Coated RN

    1.135 - OAL

     

    I am not sure how to adjust the charges given the info above. Any help is much appreciated.

     

    Thank you!

  3. On 6/13/2018 at 2:53 AM, StandardError said:

    Spent a good live fire session at the range today. 

     

    I can now manage to rip an all alpha bill drill at 7 yards from a low ready (unfortunately no holster work at my indoor range) under 2 seconds. 

     

    Importantly, I've been working hard to improve my grip so that i can both control and track the sights reliably. It's been a slow process, but I finally have a push-pull type grip which seems to be working well. 

    Could you expound on your push-pull grip? I have been trying this as well but with mixed results. Some days, it just does not feel right. Could you explain how you enforce this while shooting? Thanks!

  4. I experimented last weekend shooting over 800 rounds. I would say the results were very surprising.

     

    I went from Bob Vogel’s death grip to almost no grip. Suprisingly, my gun flipped more as I gripped the pistol harder. My hands were constantly breaking as I increased pressure. 

     

    Having said that, I held the gun like I would hold on to a bar while standing on a subway. Very neutral. No added squeeze whatsoever. Along with this grip (hand pressure) I straightened my arms out, not bent, without locking but extended and applied a firm push/pull. Not too intense either, just enough for my palms to be in contact.. 

     

    In short, my very relaxed grip without squeezing, with a bit of push/pull, arms extended out, made my gun flip less than when I gripped it really hard.

     

  5. On 1/22/2019 at 11:14 AM, Truckin_Thumper said:

    In the last 3 weeks, I picked BOTH of these up for $4700 

    So $2350 each, AVG. 

     

    Alvar_Twins.JPG

    These are the czechmate right? Where were you able to get them? They seem to be out of stock everywhere. 

     

    Thank you!

  6. Squeezing for me might not be the best option. When i squeeze really hard, my hands naturally sweat. 

     

    Push pull has been effective, although it puts stress too much on my right shoulder. Maybe I’’m doing something wrong, will have to experiment. But so far, i find better results with the push/pull grip without squeezing.

  7. On 1/21/2019 at 9:22 PM, BJB said:

    What velocity/power factor does 3.5 grains give you?  That has to be up above 140PF or so for a coated 147 gr bullet, even in a G19.  I don't even use 3.5 gr for my 135gr bullets.

    BTW: If you get the Q5 and run that load through it the velocity and power factor will be even higher.

    Thanks for the advice. I will need to make a new load for the q5. 

     

    As for velocity/power factor, I have not run this through a chrono. Although for me, it feels very light in my gun. Having a smaller charge for the 147 gr. Bullet feels slow to me. The 3.5gr seem to make it snappy enough to come back to sight alignment. This is for my G19 and 1911 5”

  8. Just wanted to share my thoughts on grip, having experimented with a couple of techniques the past week. 

     

    1.) 360 degree grip

    Works fine but hands need to be        dry/tacky. Works best with grip enhancers.

    Downside is slipping hands when sweaty.

     

    2.) weak hand wrist lock, relaxed strong hand.

    Works the same as the 360 degree grip, but needs traction on the left hand to work. Also tiring after a few hundred rounds. I tend to overcompensate and shoot right (I am right handed)

     

    3.) push pull/isosceles stance

    works well with sweaty/dry hands. Sights track straight up and down. Very little to almost no grip necessary (making a fist). All pressure front to back with the push and pull. Downside for me is it does not work too well for glocks because of the shape of the grip. Works better with rounded grips for guns like a 1911.

     

    wanted to see some thoughts/techniques some might have to improve shooting.

     

    thanks!

     

     

  9. Thanks for all the suggestions. These have helped me a lot. I really appreciate everyone’s input. I wouldn’t have learned anywhere else but this forum!

     

    I tried a couple of load data posted here and found the “best” that works for me. Sharing this for those who also use a G19.

     

    147gr RN - SNS coated

    3.5 gr Titegroup

    OAL - 1.125

     

    I will be investing in a competition gun now. Looking at the PPQ Q5 match. Hopefully this same data works, if not I now know what to look for, thanks to everyone here!

     

    Cheers

  10. 4 hours ago, BJB said:

    As stated by previous posters, OAL is specific to your bullet & your chamber leade.  You have to determine it.  The OAL listed in manuals is a kind of guide if you will but it is still only relevant to that particular bullet and chamber leade.  These powder charge weights guys are giving you are all good suggestions and are on the lower end if you look at it.  They should all power factor at 130 to 135 or so.  This is not pushing it as far as safety goes by any means.  

    Oh okay. Everything is starting to make more sense. Thanks a lot. So for the charges, maybe using 10% lower than the maximum charge is a safe starting point. For the OAL, that will depend on the results of my plunk test for each type of bullet and gun.

  11. 37 minutes ago, BJB said:

    I don't load those specific bullets but I bet somebody who does chimes in soon. 

     

    As stated, plunk test them all.  The OAL in one barrel might be too long in the other.  Plunk test, find your OAL, then shorten it a little more.  Also, when you chrono keep in mind that each firearm will produce a different power factor with the same load because the G19 has a 4" barrel and the Springfield has a 5".  You can produce different OAL loads for each barrel if you so desire but that isn't strictly necessary, and can actually get confusing with a lot of guns in the mix.  My short leade chambers dictate my OAL when loading 9mm, so for the longer leade chambers the OAL would seem much too short.  In reality I haven't see a change in accuracy at 25 yards with a very short OAL versus what would be considered the optimum OAL.  One thing to be aware of if you have to go to a very short OAL is spiking chamber pressures, so you might have to back off the powder just a smidgen.  The required OAL can vary considerably d/t the different bullet geometry, ogive, etc.  What will stay somewhat more consistent is the volume remaining under the bullet inside the case, the boiler room if you will.  When you start compressing this volume is when spiking can occur.  Titegroup can spike very fast.

     

    Also, if you haven't loaded coated bullets before you'll find crimp can play a big factor in accuracy and/or leading.  Please use the search feature and investigate crimp for 9mm reloading.  A lot of guys new to reloading will crimp the piss out of the casing thinking it holds the bullets better.  For coated bullets this is incorrect.  The resizing die constricts the casing and this is what holds the bullet, the crimp for 9mm is a taper crimp and only removes the bell you put in the case.  Don't over crimp and damage the coating or accuracy will suffer and leading will occur.  Just remove the bell, crimp to 0.379" and never worry about the diameter of the bullet you load again.

    Thanks for all this info. Definitely helps a lot. I will Plunk test them all when they ship. Hopefully the OAL from the plunk test will not be too close to the Minimum OAL stated in the load data. Alliant provides this, while titegroup does not. Since they will be the same type of bullet (Coated RN) can I use the same Minimum OAL as reference? 

     

    For instance, Alliant sport pistol shows minimum OAL at 1.05 for 124 gr coated RN. Can I use this minimum OAL with titegroup? 

     

    Not sure if I’m explaining it correctly, but my question is, is OAL relative to powder type? (Sport pistol) vs Titegroup Or bullet type? (Coated RN, FP, etc)

     

     

  12. 8 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    Sport Pistol will be more accurate and cleaner.

     

    3.8 titegroup and a coated 124

    3.2 titegroup and a coated 147

     

    Load as long as your guns chambers will accomodate.

    I will be getting this powder as well. Good thing they post their load data on their website. Thanks!

  13. 7 hours ago, oddjob said:

    Do this so you can get an idea how long you load your bullets in your barrel.  Then you can start experimenting.  What I do is get the ideal length and put the bullets in pill bottles labeled 9mm, 40, 124's, 147's & etc.  I'm older so I have a lot of pill bottles.

    This is a great idea. Thanks!

  14. 5 minutes ago, mont1120 said:

     

     

     

    For Blue Bullets, the 3.1 for the 147 and 3.8 for the 124's is about right in my CZ. I recently loaded up a bunch of the Gallant 135 grain rds, used 3.3 of TG, but the really nice factor about the Gallants is I found they will seat in almost any brand of case, (yes, even the dreaded CBC and Aquila villains) at a decent OAL. I'll stay with the Blues for match ammo, but will stick with the Gallant for the sole reason I can load even the most obscure 9MM brass I have on hand. 

    Is there a specific book/manual I can purchase to see load data for hodgdon powders? They seem to only have a few data in their website, compared to alliant for instance. 

     

    I plan on getting a Cz as well, will take note of this. Thanks!

  15. 46 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

     

    It's a great plan - testing 4 different bullets in your gun to see which is "best" for you     :cheers:

     

    Be aware, that it's possible that you might need a different OAL for each bullet -

    should really run FOUR Plunk Tests.     :) 

     

    Don't run a Plunk Test with one of those, and set your OAL for all four bullets -

    might not work.

    In doing the Plunk Test, should I be worried if I’ll need to seat the bullet deeper depending on the barrel? Or is the minimum OAL usually much shorter than the longest I can load in a glock barrel for example.  

  16. 3 hours ago, BJB said:

    You'll encounter different ogives in different bullets makes, particularly in coated bullets.  This will have a say in your OAL, which in turn can have a say in powder charge required.  The OAL for one 124 gr bullet might not be the same as another.  You'll have to determine all this based on your bullet and your chamber.  Do the plunk test.  For instance, the newer style Acme 124 gr RN bullets have a narrower ogive than the 125 gr RN Blue Bullet and can be loaded to a longer OAL than the Blues.

     

    For better information why don't you post the actual bullet you plan to load and in what pistol?  I bet there's a multitude of load data for your specific requirements.

     

    To answer your original question, in general for coated bullets I use 3.1 gr Titegroup for 147 gr bullets and 3.7 gr Titegroup for 124/125 gr bullets but I use a much shorter OAL for the 124/125 gr bullets.

    I plan on buying coated RN bullets from Missouri Bullets and Gallant Bullets.

     

    I’m going for 124 gr and 147 gr to test which one is best for me. I currently have a Glock 19 and a Springfield 1911 Range Officer in 9mm.

     

    I was thinking of using Alliant Sport Pistol, since the load data for their types of bullets are posted on their website. However several competitors in my area suggested the Titegroup instead. Having said that, I wanted to try both powders, but I do not have data on Titegroup yet. 

  17. 17 minutes ago, ajblack said:

    This topic has been covered to death in this forum, but some very common loads with TG are 3.2 grains under a 147 or 4 grains under a 124. These are for coated bullets, which you didn't specify what you were using. Also, like any reloading question, it will vary with your specific gun/environment/OAL that you can get away with

    I’m going to be using coated RN bullets. So far the data I’ve got from their website was for a different type of bullet, and a much shorter one I believe. 

     

    Thanks for the info!

  18. 16 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    I learned to load on a Dillon 650. Without a mentor or any in-person assiatance. That said, I’m extrmeely mechanically inclined; it’s how I make my living.

     

    Owned it for 10 years and loaded zero squibs or double-charges.

     

    Not suggesting it for anyone who isn’t both meticulous and prone to casually rebuilding their vehicle’s engine and transmission... but you can do it.

     

    I do agree a Lee Turret is a wonderful choice for any beginner.

    I will probably get a Dillon 650 in the future. Maybe start with the Lee Turret just to learn first.

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