hello0o0o0o
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Posts posted by hello0o0o0o
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Anyone have experience with this? Or is there a better option to look at?
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On 6/15/2021 at 11:03 AM, Darqusoull13 said:
Yeah, I have but you wont believe me until you shoot it. Brian at Hunters HD has one as well if you are going to any of the matches he's at.
Big question I have is: Can you confirm that it is a proprietary upper+lower system and not compatible with gmr15 lowers?
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Can't decide on this or the czechmate...
Honestly, if this doesn't have mag reliability issues, then it will be an amazing option.
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Kind of an odd request but I'm out in Boulder for the summer for work, couldn't bring any gear with me unfortunately.
Anyone with an extra rig going to the Pike's Peak USPSA match next month who's willing to help out an experienced shooter?
Would need... everything but will happily cover the ammo expense and loading tax obviously.
Competed in Area 6 twice and various other level 2 matches so no worries on the experience front... want to get some USPSA matches down while I'm out here! Let me know if you can help, thanks guys!
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Just now, MLS2GO said:
I have both of the JP Models the 14.5" barrel with pin and welded comp and the UL with the 5.5" Barrel and shroud. I like them both very much, but for me they shoot completely differently. The regular barrel rifle dot barely moves, but it is slower to transition. I bought this rifle primarily for USPSA. I know this from reading the splits on the timer. The UL dot moves a noticeable amount more, but is quicker on transitions because of reduced weight. Again the timer doesn't lie. My purpose was to shoot USPSA with the heavier gun and Steel Challenge with the lighter one, plus have a back up to the other in either case. I have the same optic a Sig Romeo XL with a 6 MOA dot on both and trigger pull on both out of the box is 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 pounds. If I was younger and stronger, I might be tempted to go with the lighter one for everything. IF I had to choose only one I would be going with the heavier one. I have not shot the UL in a match yet, only practice.
I just received my 12.5" Brekke custom upper. so much much much lighter than the heavy JP. I haven't shot it yet but I definitely think it's going to be an important switch. Most people are going towards medium weight setups now. Not ultra light nor heavy. I see the benefit of lightening up the front end.
I cannot stress this enough, for PCC you already split fast enough, but where you'll win the matches is in transitions and movement. Both benefit from the lighter barrel. The dot movement at least in theory can be cleaned up with mount, stance, load development, and buffer system.
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To answer your question, first, the JP is worth the money if you are looking for a fully built tuned set up. I would recommend getting the shroud barrel and not the 14" or 16" full length. However, the full length has very very good recoil management.
The MBX is okay too but there's not much to say about it. But also consider DaVinci Arms for their prebuilt options.
Second, I would definitely not recommend the MPX as even the gen3 does not have enough precedent for the high round counts of uspsa... though you'll always find that one guy who basically want to f*#k their MPX they love it so much.
Now, ck1 has a good point in saying that MaxL has insane performance out of cheap gear.
I would also recommend following some of his builds. He has a few builds posted on here and insta where he uses a FM9 bolt etc.I would probably go with a JP lower receiver due to the importance of glock mag angle and then follow a Max or Hwansik build from there. PCC is very equipment geared and there is complicated topics involving short stroking, bolt speed, trigger performance, and barrel weight. It's a very complicated field which is why unless you follow a professionals build exactly (a good option) or have an experienced friend to help, I would probably recommend doing prebuilt.
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https://imgur.com/a/dVSpZyq
Apologies Sarge, this is a photo of the bottom of my primer plunger.Just a single small allen key slot
I think it is tightening the spring captured base.
On 8/13/2020 at 1:58 PM, Sarge said:Mine has an E clip but no set screw
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9 minutes ago, Sarge said:
not one on 650. You talking 750 or 550? There is a set screw on 550 that holds seating punch in place. It fits into a recess. If it comes loose it will not seat deep enough.
on the 650, the bottom of the spring, there is a tiny allen key. I'm not sure what it is for other than capturing the spring.
On 8/4/2020 at 9:46 PM, Onikudaki said:
The seating punch/die seems to be tight.
I tightened down the shell plate and I think that might have solved my problem.
Can the shell plate being too loose have an effect on primer seating?
The picture posted above, underneath the spring and the bottom black piece.
I just don't know what it's for exactly.
I'll send a picture in a few days when I can.
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2 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:
The Gold Nut on the Primer Seating die only tightens the Die to the shell plate Ram. There really isn't a seating depth adjustment to the Primer Seating Die. Its either Tight and that puts it at the correct dept, or its loose and it is not deep enough and will cause high primers.
Understood! so what exactly does the tiny allen key do? Is it to capture the spring?
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Just to be clear, you put a wrench on the Gold nut in that picture and verified that it was tight? That gold nut portion is what secures that die to the bottom of the Ram.
Hmmm. I am interested in that. The gold nut tightens the primer tray or does the tiny Allen key on the spring plunger tighten it? -
I have the flat faced jp competition trigger in my gmr. I can attest the 3.5 pull and the trigger freeze... I've been looking for a solution but its frustrating as the good hair triggers like the elfmann etc are not at all reliable for pcc.
I think the forceful reset of the trigger that max leograndis talks about is super important but I still think it'd be great to get a hair trigger that offers that in a pcc.
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All of your primers should be driven below flush in order to ensure proper function.
With a high primer, the first hit drives the primer into the pocket fully instead of denting it, making the issue look like light strikes if it’s visually inspected.
The second strike sets off the freshly seated primer.
Inspect all of your loaded ammo by touch, looking for primers which feel flush or high.
If you can set the base of round on an absolutely flat surface like a pane of glass, and it rocks back and forth? That’s a round which will be problematic.
For one... push harder. Pay attention to how each primer feels when seating it. Raise the handle slowly so you can feel it go in, then PUSH HARD at the end. [emoji106]
To get my primers seated properly I need to push with an insane amount of force.
Like way too hard for the normal action of reloading, which is why I think something else is off in the tolerances... shell plate or assembly etc -
I just replaced mine recently, the spring wore out.. Dillion sent me a new... Wasn't sitting my primers correctly anymore.
How many rounds before the spring wore out? -
If you have not invested a lot of money, sell it all and buy a Sig MPX. The recoil is so much lighter with the Sig. You will have to pay for the lighter recoil because they are not cheap. It is night and day in the recoil. Shoot someones Sig side by side to a AR. If you stay with the AR platform, don't make it to lite, remember weight is on your side sometimes. You will be shocked. All of this being said, I had 2 Sigs, they were flawless, I loved them, but expensive. I still shoot my AR. I am lucky that I have not had the medical issues and I am a fairly good sized fellow.
That is fine and all... but the reputation is not flawless. Which is why you don’t see everyone shooting them. It’s not the price.
That said yes the recoil is insane with the sig.
If you could get them to run reliably with 20k rounds before spring and minor replacements, then it will be a viable choice -
The seating punch/die seems to be tight.
I tightened down the shell plate and I think that might have solved my problem.
Can the shell plate being too loose have an effect on primer seating?
Yes I found this out the hard way as well. The shell plate tolerance has a huge effect on the primer seating. Thing must be pretty snug then really really minorly backed off.
Went and ordered the 650 grand slam upgrade kit. And I hope that will take some slack out of the system.
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I’m having the same high primer issue with my 650.
Please do NOT reseat the primers on the live rounds!
Set those aside for training.
Prime an empty case, mess with a few things and reprime it harder. Keep in mind the primer should not be flat with the bottom of the case but recessed into the bottom -
You can check out Max leograndis' insta. He did some vids on his setup. I basically copied his build and ammo setup as close to his.
I have tried 95gr, 115, 124, 147 loads from 130-160pf range. I find 115gr 140pf works the best for 12" brekke setup.
Depends on your buffer setup and powder, I believe the ideal load may change.
Yep I’ve been trying to follow the same. Once it comes in I will try from 130-160 pf with 115s.
I’m using a Jp bolt and short stroke silent capture spring. Which I think should be solid... I’ll play with the ammo before I start messing with weights in the buffer.
I have to ask, what powder are you using and what do you suggest.
I’m running titegroup as of now. -
You can’t post this data without saying what powder you’re using... otherwise it doesn’t mean much.
I get ~100+ FPS more out of 14.5” with 115 and titegroup -
I have spent too much money tinkering to get the gun run reliable and good recoil.
I settled with Brekke 12" with their 4" vertical comp, Kynshot 5015HD with their SS spacer, JP 308 carbine spring, 5 or 6 quarters in the buffer tube, and a welded Bolt (Taccom Extreme bolt works too).
This way, I am short stroking a lot. It's been very reliable and the best recoil. I can shoot all As at 25 yards with .13 splits. I don't need to push pull much either compared to muzzle breaks. With vertical comp, the gun comes back down automatically. For this, I have to make sure to use lighter bullets (115 or 124) to produce enough gas. I currently use 115gr at 140pf.
I’m on this next shipment for Brekke 12”. It’s going on a full gmr build so it’s got a ton of weight behind the upper. I think this may help absorb it along with the short stroke silent capture.
With the 4” comp, you’re saying it’s possible to drive the comp a bit. Is this the way to go now? Just up the powder charge till it doesn’t move? Or just go for the lightest loads? -
you could wait a month for this......14.5" long carbon fiber, blast shield/extension, colors.......solid mount.....small diameter, 6 ounces, $160 price range.....pretty much designed for any legal 16" barrel configuration.
That seems like a really iffy design where the gas ports onto the CF shield and through the top of the handguard where your hand might go -
Yep fully agree. Only was making the case of merit in lightening up the front end. There’s a bunch of different ways to accomplish that
If handguard is what you want a cf is the way to go, if shroud then so be it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
50 minutes ago, copterdrvr said:
I have five or six Mentium free float handguards and they ALL fit perfectly. I see some of the prices for other handguards that are available and I wouldn't even THINK of blowing the money that I'd have to pay for some of them. The handguard is NOT going to make me shoot any better if I match the handguard to the application. Mentium has plenty of options and spending over two hundred dollars for something that can be used for less than 70 dollars is strange to me...
Smoke composites for sure. I understand the mental unrest that comes with looking at the price. Lightening up the front end actually may help you shoot better as your transition speed may be drastically improved.
Now for most people that probably won't be the case. I'm coming from a full 14.5" JP Gmr upper which ways an astronomical amount. I've done experimenting with supper light uppers and transitions and immediately ordered a brekke upper with the CF handguard.PCC and open in my opinion are the most gear determinant divisions as the upper levels are super close in time and points.
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GZCLP, super versatile and scalable to different levels.
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Yep, it's a two fold problem. First is to move your feet and body correctly. The second is being ready to shoot.
I agree, watching football players and other shooters is a great way to understand what's happening.
One of my favorite shooters especially for movement is Lesgar Speedy Murdock.
This man is an absolute legend for movement. I was able to watch him shoot at the last A6 and the level of efficiency is insane. Check him out on instagram and slow down his videos to see exactly what and when he is doing.
UM Tactical Rage for 9mm PCC?
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
I used one on my scorpion for a very long time. I’m going to be honest and say I didn’t notice any different in muzzle response from the stock scorpion compensator.
I think to really get compensator effect from the muzzle, you need 10-12” barrels with pin and weld comps.
It doesn’t seem to me that there is a relevant amount of gas behind 9mm to do much past 14”.
I got mine from a friend and for a good price. I definitely would not have paid full price for one.