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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About hello0o0o0o

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    John Rynk

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  1. I just received my 12.5" Brekke custom upper. so much much much lighter than the heavy JP. I haven't shot it yet but I definitely think it's going to be an important switch. Most people are going towards medium weight setups now. Not ultra light nor heavy. I see the benefit of lightening up the front end. I cannot stress this enough, for PCC you already split fast enough, but where you'll win the matches is in transitions and movement. Both benefit from the lighter barrel. The dot movement at least in theory can be cleaned up with mount, stance, load development, and buffer
  2. To answer your question, first, the JP is worth the money if you are looking for a fully built tuned set up. I would recommend getting the shroud barrel and not the 14" or 16" full length. However, the full length has very very good recoil management. The MBX is okay too but there's not much to say about it. But also consider DaVinci Arms for their prebuilt options. Second, I would definitely not recommend the MPX as even the gen3 does not have enough precedent for the high round counts of uspsa... though you'll always find that one guy who basically want to f*#k their MPX they
  3. https://imgur.com/a/dVSpZyq Apologies Sarge, this is a photo of the bottom of my primer plunger. Just a single small allen key slot I think it is tightening the spring captured base.
  4. on the 650, the bottom of the spring, there is a tiny allen key. I'm not sure what it is for other than capturing the spring. The picture posted above, underneath the spring and the bottom black piece. I just don't know what it's for exactly. I'll send a picture in a few days when I can.
  5. Understood! so what exactly does the tiny allen key do? Is it to capture the spring?
  6. Hmmm. I am interested in that. The gold nut tightens the primer tray or does the tiny Allen key on the spring plunger tighten it?
  7. I have the flat faced jp competition trigger in my gmr. I can attest the 3.5 pull and the trigger freeze... I've been looking for a solution but its frustrating as the good hair triggers like the elfmann etc are not at all reliable for pcc. I think the forceful reset of the trigger that max leograndis talks about is super important but I still think it'd be great to get a hair trigger that offers that in a pcc.
  8. To get my primers seated properly I need to push with an insane amount of force. Like way too hard for the normal action of reloading, which is why I think something else is off in the tolerances... shell plate or assembly etc
  9. How many rounds before the spring wore out?
  10. That is fine and all... but the reputation is not flawless. Which is why you don’t see everyone shooting them. It’s not the price. That said yes the recoil is insane with the sig. If you could get them to run reliably with 20k rounds before spring and minor replacements, then it will be a viable choice
  11. Yes I found this out the hard way as well. The shell plate tolerance has a huge effect on the primer seating. Thing must be pretty snug then really really minorly backed off. Went and ordered the 650 grand slam upgrade kit. And I hope that will take some slack out of the system.
  12. I’m having the same high primer issue with my 650. Please do NOT reseat the primers on the live rounds! Set those aside for training. Prime an empty case, mess with a few things and reprime it harder. Keep in mind the primer should not be flat with the bottom of the case but recessed into the bottom
  13. Yep I’ve been trying to follow the same. Once it comes in I will try from 130-160 pf with 115s. I’m using a Jp bolt and short stroke silent capture spring. Which I think should be solid... I’ll play with the ammo before I start messing with weights in the buffer. I have to ask, what powder are you using and what do you suggest. I’m running titegroup as of now.
  14. You can’t post this data without saying what powder you’re using... otherwise it doesn’t mean much. I get ~100+ FPS more out of 14.5” with 115 and titegroup
  15. I’m on this next shipment for Brekke 12”. It’s going on a full gmr build so it’s got a ton of weight behind the upper. I think this may help absorb it along with the short stroke silent capture. With the 4” comp, you’re saying it’s possible to drive the comp a bit. Is this the way to go now? Just up the powder charge till it doesn’t move? Or just go for the lightest loads?
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