Pickin
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Posts posted by Pickin
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Not automating. I don't plan on it for the future.
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Hello All
Looking at the Fast Friendly shell plate and other accessories for my 1050. Are they worth it for 20 bucks less than the entire conversion kit from Dillon.
I have pins, tabs, and more items from my 750 I can move over. Just trying to see if it's worth it to spend money on a shellplate
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Thank you all for the input. That was the way I way going. Keep the 750 and automate the 1050
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Thanks for the info.
Do I keep my auto drive and swap it to the 750? Or sell the 650 with autodirve and get a drive for the 1050?
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Please read and help me haha!! I reload 9mm, 40, and 223. I shoot USPSA and 3gun. I have a bunch of the upgrades on the 650 and 750 that I have done over time as the part wear out.
My current setup:
650 on autodrive for brass (deprime and size)
750 that I load on. station 1 is universal deprime, 2 prime, flare and powder, 3 empty, 4 seat, 5 crimp.
just bought a 1050 for a smoking deal. only comes setup for 223 with mr bullet feeder for 223 as well.
Do i keep the 1050 and sell the 650 with autodirve and the 750. I would like to get the CP2000 and get setup on an atudrive. Big thing I am not able to do is swage on the 650/750. I dont think that 223 prep on the 1050 is worth it I would be wasting the presses potential. let me hear some ideas and what everyone thinks.
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Roll sizing only fixes the buldge on the base of the vase from unsupported chambers. You will still need to use a sizing die for the case to fit into a case gauge.
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I have a Gen1 Atlas Hyperion. I load my 147gr RN Blue Bullets to about 1.165. I am about 900 FPS. I have no issues with them being that length. However best way to check your chamber IMO is to get a peice of once fired brass from that particular chamber/s you are loading for. Add your seed of choice, push until the rim of the case is flush then with one swift motion pull it all out. Check the length, take off about .02 on COAL. If loading for more than one chamber load for your shortest one.
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You'll be very happy with it. I love mine.
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RT 1500 paired with the Mighty Armory trim dies. The 1500 will have enough power to convert 223 to 300 blackout.
Mighty Armory dies are machined to perfection for great consistency. Less than .001 difference in sizing when I do my 223.
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Wayne you are the man!!!
I only use Mighty Armory dies. Great consistency and machined to perfection. My chrono was within 5fps.
Just follow the directions they say and you won't have any issues.
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What kind of competition are you looking to do? USPSA, 3 gun, IDPA? Do you have a price you are wanting to spend? If you don't have any gear remember you'll need to factor that in as well to your budget.
Right now I'm running an Atlas Gunworks Nemesis in 40 for USPSA limited. Best purchase I've made. Started with a CZ TSO then moved to a Bul Armory. Adam and his crew are super helpful and knowledgeable.
3 gun am running a CK Arms in 9mm. Works great, but want to go to an Atlas Hyperion.
In my opinion Atlas is where it's at. But they are also $$$ but get what you pay for.
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Check out shootingsportsinnovations.com they sell the "Nitro Fin" should drop right in. May require a bit of fitting. 99.99% of the time they drop right in.
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Thank you. Just did.
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Hello All
Just picked up a new to me CK Arms 2011 in 9mm. Has a blacked out front sight want to put in a fiber from Dawson. The rear cut is Bomar.
How do I determine what front cut I have.
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I like to start by giving my sorted range brass a quick wash with just water in my Lyman Cyclone to make sure it is free of debris. Dry in the Frankford Arsenal brass dryer. Good lube with lanolin. In my 650 station 1 is Mighty Armory blue decapping die. Station 4 Mighty Armory TNT sizing die.
Good washing wish SS pins and Hornady case cleaning solution in the cyclone. Then back in the dryer. Gets rid of the lanolin and cleans the primer pockets.
Plus the more times I touch the brass I can sort for bad cases or wrong size
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Redhill Tactical makes a great holster that will fit. Dual layer, lots of color options, and variety of mounting options.
Great fit and finish. Can get level 2 or specific made for competitive use.
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I just picked up a used Gen 1 Nemesis. I've shot maybe 600 total rounds with 300 or so at a match through the gun. HOLY COW!!!!! This thing is amazing. Hand loads with 180 grain blue bullets making 172 PF.
Came from shooting a Bul Armory SAS II Air R edition and the difference is night and day. Put maybe 1500 rounds down the Bul. At the PA USPSA sectional it wasn't feeding factory Federal 200 grain syntech or my hand loads. Key holes at 5 yards with both ammo.
Fit and finish and the Atlas is amazing. Smooth action and trigger. Slide has no binding, just glides. The PT grip DNA collector for sure. Once you establish your grip it won't change. The return to zero and tracking of the sight makes a huge difference when you're taking that follow shot.
In my opinion the Atlas is well worth it. Not only customer service but having the confidence going into a match knowing that it will go bang unless I mess up up reloading.
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On 7/23/2022 at 6:37 PM, Dr_Z said:
another benefit I found about rollsizing is that I can consistently load to 21+1
Yes!!! I never thought about that. Did it today at a match. Fed great had no issues. I guess because the case is uniform and no bulge?
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On 7/21/2022 at 6:43 PM, Dr_Z said:
All you need is a good cleaning. Get rid of cracked brass, and then you are free to load to major PF. Rollsizing is good, but not necessary.
I have picked up a DC rollsizer. One of the best investments I've made. I've used it now maybe 3000 total rounds over the three calibers. I have lowered my SDs. I have it for 9, 40, and 223.
I'm not a Bullseye shooter but my groups have tighten up a lot.
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I had the same issue not to long ago, for me simple fix.
First I disassembled the press, cleaned and lubed the parts according to dillion. Reset the decapping die (ran the plate to the top of the stroke, screwed the die down till it touched the shell plate then a quarter turn out. Locked it down with a case in place.) Lubed up the case insert guide and had to slightly back out the case feede rod.
That sloved my problem.
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7 hours ago, 12glocks said:
I have patterned Carlson, factory Benelli, Briley, or Pure Gold. The Pure Gold pattern tighter and when we tried buckshot, was the only brand to put more pellets on target than the other brands. Its a small company from SC that does some sponsorship in the carolinas (I don't know about other places) and Pure Gold is popular here. There spreader chokes also are efficacious. I have not patterned any other brand of spreader type choke.
I highly recommend shooters pattern all there chokes at various distances for 3 gun. I disagree that light mod for 90% of shooting in 3 gun is an effective strategy. I change chokes a lot.
If I was shooting distance like duck hunting, I would get Pure Gold. I have met guys that hunt deer with buck shot and dogs and they pattern every brand trying to find what works best for that mission, also turkey hunters that have patterned a lot of chokes.
In summation, I guess my experience is most chokes are very close, with Pure Gold being a little better.
I do switch out my chokes depending on what the stage calls for. I have my factory ones patterned.
So this is kinda like buying a car. All go from point A to B, just slight differences in each? Any choke will get the job done, just need to pick what I like.
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Hello All
Looking to get an extended set of tubes for my m2 for 3gun. Factory ones work great just want the extended for ease of removal due to the extended mag tube.
Does brand name matter? Such as Briley vs Muller vs Carlson etc...? Is anyone better than the other like material wise and longevity? Price difference is $100 for a basic set of 3.
Briley is the big name in the 3 gun world. I am not being paid to play the sport, it's just a hobby. So do I really need to spend the $$$ or can I get away with the $$ and get something else.
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1 hour ago, 45 Raven said:
Do any of the rounds you have loaded fail to chamber, or just some of them? If so, are the ones that won't chamber from a specific brand of brass?
More crimp might help, but without knowing what the crimp currently measures, it's hard to tell. Get some measurements of the current crimp before arbitrarily increasing it.
Experiment with OAL/crimp combinations by loading a few rounds without powder and primer and "plunk" them in the FNX barrel. It should not be too difficult to identify an OAL/crimp value that works for that gun.
Thank you. I will get some measurements and go from there.
Yea it's all brass not a specific headstamp.
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Loaded up about 500 or so mixed brass. Used Xtreme 230gr RN with an OAL of ~1.2. Used RCBS dies. Fits in my Dillon case gauge without an issue.
Went to the range about a week ago, used my FNX 45 and the rounds wouldn't chamber. Do I need more crimp? Same ammo fits in my Springfield XD 45 and cycles no problem.
Thanks
1050 aftermarket shell plate worth it?????
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Thank you for that info. I will pick up the factory conversion kit.
I appreciate your input