glockadict
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Posts posted by glockadict
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Thanks everyone. I didn't realize that Wilson was selling Frames kits. I gave them a call today, and was told that they are hand fit. They take about 1 to 2 weeks to get one to you. I am thinking of going that route. I agree that the AGI videos are rather boring, but helpful. I have bought 3 STI's to date, and last year I bought a LWRC M6A2, LWRC PSD 556, LWRC REPR, 2 DSA Fals, and an AAC 762 SD silencer. I am trying to find something to fill my time, so I stop buying so many guns, and I am avoiding going back to school for my Master's.
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I was thinking of taking a shot at building a 1911. I think it will be a nice project to take on, and it will help me learn a lot more about 1911's. I don't have any machining tools, so I was going to send off the barrel to get fitted, and do the rest by hand. I have the AGI video series, building the ultimate 1911 already. I was wondering if it would be better to buy all new Caspian parts, or buy a basic Springfield or STI Spartan and change all the parts and tighten the slide to frame fit?I was planning on putting mostly STI parts on the pistol. I already have an STI Trojan, RangeMaster, and Dawson Tuned Edge. Thank you in advance.
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I searched the forum, and founds lots of posts about both powders. I was just trying to get a gauge of what people's preferences are. I like Varget, but cannot get any.
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I have a option between h335 or aa2230 to load 223 rem with 55gr fmjbt bullets. I have used H335 before, but not aa2230. They are the same price for 8 lbs, so I would like to get the best powder or does it even matter. These are just plinking loads, but I would like to get the best powder of the 2. Thanks in advance.
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I've been putting it off for about as long as I can stand, so I'm going to start loading 223 for my ar15's. I was looking at buying a case of primers for Wideners or Powdervalley. I've had really good luck with Wolf primers in my pistols, so I'll give them a shot for 223. Powdervalley has Wolf 223 (ar-15) small rifle primers. What is the difference between them and regular? Are they harder like military primers? Would it be worthwhile to get them, or are they simply not needed?
I plan of loading 55gr FMJ's with H335 and 69-75gr with Varget if it matters.
I have not used any wolf primers to date. I have been using the CCI 5.56 primers for my AR, and 7.62 primers for my Fal. They are supposed to be made specifically for military style rifle with free float firing pins. I have had great success with them so far. Then again they could be the plain rifle primers repackaged.
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Top brass is already processed. I am not planning on loading it over the top. More than likely it will be load at minimum specs. Thanks for the help.
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I was wondering how many times you can reload LC 308 brass? I was planning on ordering some from Top Brass, but have never used military brass in 308. I am going to be shooting out of a FAL.
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How is H335 in 308. I am wanting to stick to one powder for rifle. I like H335 for 223, but I am going to start loading 308 soon, and was wondering how good is H335 for a 150gr Hornady FMJBT. I am not looking for super accuracy, I am shooting it out of a SBR. Also which brass, Remington, or Winchester?
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Nevermind, got one.
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Thanks for the help. I am not looking for super accuracy. This is just a fun gun for me, I am buying rifles that may not be around if certain people get into office.
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Who has the best deal on Eotech 512's? I plan on ordering one this week.
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I ordered a DSA Fal with an 11 inch barrel last September, and it finally got delivered to my dealer. I will not be able to pick it up until my paperwork goes through the ATF, but I wanted to get supplies before I get it. What weight bullets should I use for such a short barrel? Has anyone used pulled bullets from River Valley Ordnance, or should I just stick with 150gr Hornady bullets? I just started reloading 223, and use Varget powder, is that good for 308?
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Thank you for the reply, that helps a lot. I lubed and sized some cases today. I ran them through my 650 with just the sizing die. I am now going to run them through my Dillon Case gauge. I ran a couple through the case gauge before sizing a big lot to make sure the headspace was alright. That part was confusing me, I kept reading about headspace it and figured it out. Tommorow I will run the rest of my cases through, and swage the primer pockets. I don't have my trimmer yet, so I will measure and load the cases that do not need to be trimmed. Do you still need to chamfer the cases if you do not trim?
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I have been reading a lot of threads, and reading manuals. I am not new to reloading, just reloading rifle. I am starting with 223 then moving to 308. I have a Dillon 650, and I just purchased the caliber conversion, case feeder plate, dies, swager, and case gauge, all Dillon. I am getting going to purchase a Giraud case trimmer next week. I just wanted to make sure I have everything down before I get into it. The first question is is there any headstamp brass that I should stay away from? Is it alright to swage all my brass? Do I need to separate military, and commercial brass before loading? How many times can 223 and 308 brass be reloaded? Do I have to trim every time I shoot? As far as the order of operation: clean, inspect, lube, size/deprime, trim, swage, remove lube, load, case gauge? I know I have a lot of questions, i just want to verify before I start. Than you for any, and all help.
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I purchased a Super Tuned Edge from Dawson in March. It took about 5 weeks to get it. I would definitely go with the Super Tuned Edge over the Executive. It is cheaper, and it comes with a Ice magwell, Dawson front sight, and tuned. I bought a STI RangeMaster from Brazos in May, and it took a week. I just got the tuned package on it, nothing major. The pistol is one thing, mags are another. That is another major expense, plus holster rig you are looking at another $700-$800. If you do get a Super Tuned Edge, you will have to buy 140mm mags. It comes with 1 126mm mag that does not fit with the Dawson Ice magwell.
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Montana Golds, and now Armscor's. Armscor Golds look and shoot like Montana Golds. There standard bullet shoots well also.
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I use Longshot for hot 10mm. I load 13.2gr under a Nosler HP, shoot them out of a Glock 20 with a 6" KKM barrel. I average between 1810fps to 1825fps. It is a smoking hot load. I have tried it in 40, it is very hot also. I have a Glock 24 with a 6" KKM barrel I need to chrono them out of. I got the 40 load from Hodgdon's website. The 10mm load from McNett on Glock Talk's 10mm reloading forum. Here is a link to Hodgdons site.Hodgdon's Site.
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Try here 10MM reloading Page, McNett from Doubletap ammo post recipes here. I prefer using Longshot powder. You might be using 800X to get the velocity you want. Look around the site the recipes are broken down by power manufacturer.
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Has anybody used these bullets yet? I was looking at the 180gr 40's and the 230gr 45's. Let me know the good and the bad if any. Thanks in advance.
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I like WST. It does not smoke half as bad as Titegroup. I had the same problem.
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My question is, why are you using Federals in a 16-40 when Winchester or Remington primers are every bit as effective? I could see it if you had a light hammer like in my 610, but can't see the issue in a 1911 gun.
I run light mainsprings in my 1911's. If this primer shortage keeps up I will have to put 17lbs mainsprings back in my pistols, and use winchesters.
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I was wondering how much difference there is between these 2. I am shooting major power factor out of a Para 16-40, and a STI Edge. All I can find lately is Federal small pistol magnum primers. Are they as soft as standard primers? How much more pressure, and velocity do they produce? Thanks in advance.
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Go here http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm. Click on any of the sections, and go to magazine articles. There is an article on disassemly/reassembly of 2011 firearms. It helped me out.
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I was shooting titegroup. I shot it again, and it did not get near as hot. I shot WST, and N320.
Thinking about building a 1911
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted · Edited by glockadict
I like it a lot. The fit, finish, and accuracy are great. I just have to send it in for the upgrade so I can run more than C-Products magazines. I got mine about $500 cheaper because I ordered it when it was the SABR, and had a lot less features. LWRC honored the original price.
I have one more question as far as the parts go. Wilson has an option for Stainless or Carbon steel. They also have a combination of both of Carbon Slide and Stainless frame. What is the best way to go?