myn0ck
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Posts posted by myn0ck
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On 4/19/2018 at 9:26 PM, Sarge said:
I like Merrells since they are pretty light and come in wide widths.
Yeah, I'm running some Merrell Moab 2 WP Low hiking shoes myself.
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11 hours ago, MikieM said:
You didn't say what brand your lower receiver was but some may be dimensionally different than others.
I went the non-easy route and got an 80% lower from Iconic Industries, the 9mm Instigator Ultralite.
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10 hours ago, ChuckS said:
Load your mags fully an take a picture of them from the front so you can see the top round and the next round down and post it. If the rounds are not stacking correctly, the top round may dip and miss the barrel bevel with the bolt push. Mag sitting too low can do this also...
Mag on the left has 5 rounds, on the right, fully loaded at 33.
The rounds on the right look just a tad lower.
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37 minutes ago, longbeard said:
Don't forget that if you go with Tim's ramped barrel you need the shortened bolt or you'll have to mod the one you bought.
I already have Tim's bolt and buffer... I suppose completing things with his barrel could be considered fate. ;-)
2 minutes ago, Patrick Scott said:We have to remember that the 9X19 case is tapered, so the more rounds in the mag the lower the angle of bullet presentation to the chamber which is probably why it runs better as the round count in the mag drops.
Thank you! This is the first time I've heard that explanation for my experience. I guess I need to get this fixed before I start running with a mag extension then!
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1 minute ago, TRUBL said:
the chamfer on the barrel....your bullet profile....both suck. The recoil spring is fine.
our ramp will help a lot....with what you got.
RN profile will help
the barrel chamfer.....let the experts screw with that
When do you expect your (expert) ramped tension barrel back in stock? :-)
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9 minutes ago, MikieM said:
You didn't say, but your buffer spring could be too strong. If this is a new gun, or a new build, then try a standard spring until you get a couple of hundred rounds down the barrel.
First, and foremost however, be sure and check your ammo and magazines.
+1 on the RN bullets.
It is new. With my factory ammo comparisons, optic sighting and today's match, I'm probably around 500-600 rounds total.
I'm also using the Taccom buffer with whatever springs come with it.
It also happened with RN bullets. :-/
18 minutes ago, Flatland Shooter said:I recently resolved this issue by installing a Taccom 9mm feed ramp. It only happened with an extended magazine but looked just like your jam.
They are not that expensive or hard to install but it got my PCC into running at 100% again.
Is that the feed ramp that requires cutting space into the receiver to fit? I can see that working... I just don't like the idea of irreversible mods to things. I'd almost rather get the ramped tension barrel. :-/
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So I'm having a little round chambering issue.
My anecdotal experience is that this only happens with a newly inserted 33rd factory Glock mag that is fully loaded (or close to it). If I only put 15-20 rounds in the mag, I do not recall this happening.
It has happened with at least 2 different mags and whether I'm using the Federal Syntech or a round-nose round.
I'm planning to do a little polishing of the barrel, but any other ideas?
Barrel: KVP
Upper: QC10 Side Charging
Bolt: Taccom
Thanks!
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I use these with the foam Skull Screwz tips.
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This ammo from Freedom Munitions seemed to shoot/feel better for me than WWB.
https://www.freedommunitions.com/ammunition/pistol/9mm/9mm-luger-135-gr-rnfp-new.html
Just picked up some of the new Federal Premium Syntech Action Pistol (AE9SJAP1) to see how it does as well.
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Is FM still doing stepped brass?
I found this older thread.
I'll have to check what I have from them, but I don't think its stepped anymore.
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On 10/23/2016 at 5:45 PM, bwikel said:
The Gibbz and NFA side charging uppers require a special cam pin that can't be swapped out in a 9mm bcg. I guess you could drill the bcg and permanently attach the cam pin.
I'm pretty sure the Gibbz website did say that at one point, but after I asked a question on that point it was no longer to be found! What Gibbz said was this applies to their G4 uppers, but not their G9.
Also QC10 has one based off Gibbz.
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Thanks for that info on the BHO. I'll probably test with things as-is and then see if everything still feels and works as good without the delrin pad. If not, I'll just add it back in!
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And it's basically done.
It's technically able to be shot now after I clean and lube. That's next on the list, once I find the time around all the holiday activities.
Things to do, but won't keep it from being fired...
- Switch out the selector switch with the red Strike Industries
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Take off the grip to tighten that screw that helps reduce rattle
- Side note... Got lucky with that screw. It needs to be removed before milling. Luckily figured that out before milling that low!
There are a few things that I found after everything was put together that... could be better.
- This may just be a general AR thing, as it seems to be the same with my Dad's normal AR, but I don't like that the safety cannot be engaged without the bolt cocked
- It is extremely difficult to manually lock the bolt back. I'm hoping this is on account everything being brand new and not oiled or worn in from shooting any
- The QC10 side-charging upper... I like the look. I like the concept. I generally like the product, but the difficulty of manually locking the bolt also showed that the charging handle design may be better if it was more like the Gibbz or NFA uppers, where there appears to be more meat to the handle (even if I think those don't look as good!)
Other tidbits...
- The Magpul Armorers wrench apparently does not work for the KVP barrel nut (had to borrow a 1 1/4" crowfoot)
- The Magpul Armorers wrench does fit the Strike Industries castle nut... But because of the extended end plate, you cannot turn it
One last general comment... Coming from a computer system engineer that deals with requirements and customers and such... For the majority of products I bought, and it may be specific to after-market AR parts manufacturers, the impression I have is that there is a problem with providing instructions, of any kind. Yes, the majority of things can be found via googling, but I don't view that as acceptable. Definitely not friendly to people starting out and still learning. Instructions don't even have to be included with the product, a simple go to our website for instructions and tips and guidelines (e.g. torque recommendations) would be quite adequate.
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3 hours ago, corny said:
I have milled out several lowers with the 5D jig. They come out as good or better than lowers I have milled out on a vertical mill.
The cuts are clean and precise.
Now the only thing you are going to have to contemplate is a larger safe for the other 3 or 4 PCC's you are going to build.
They are too much fun....
Except for one, thankfully recoverable, mistake of my own, I think it came out very well. Even though it will rarely be seen, we did clean-up the tooling marks some too as part of de-burring the drilled holes. Adding something like that to the bit package for a final pass would've been a nice, cherry-on-top, addition.
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12 minutes ago, MikieM said:
Well done, and I can see you are into light weight components. Me too.
Thanks. Gotta get ready for when spring matches start up!
The idea was to put something together following a mixture of "buy once, cry once" & a result that shoots better than I do. Once (or if) I catch-up to it, then I'll think about appropriate upgrades.
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A couple other pictures, just to share. :-)
- Upper: QC10 Side Charging
- Lower: Iconic Industries 80% 9mm Instigator Ultralite
- Bolt: Tacom
- Buffer: Tacom 3-stage
- Stock: Hogue
- Barrel: KVP 16"
- Handguard: KVM Carbon Fiber 15"
- Comp: KVP Linear
- Grip: BAD-ATG
- Trigger: Hipertouch 24E
Cosmetic Additions
- Strike Industries Selector Switch
- Strike Industries Enhanced Castle Nut
- Strike Industries Ultra Light Pivot / Takedown Pins
In regards to the 5D Tactical jig... One other piece of advice that we followed, but is not found in the instructions, is to put some additional tape around gaps to trap shavings and create additional suction for the attached vacuum.
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28 minutes ago, MikieM said:
Oh, are you going to have fun. If I had a mill I'd be knee deep in 80% lowers.
Keep us posted.
Yeah. Its been a learning experience, but overall, the 5D Tactical jig was very nice. I only got the AR15/AR9 package, but its easy enough to get the AR10 pieces later should I decide to go down that path at some point.
While I do not have any experience with alternative jigs, I would definitely recommend the 5D Tactical Pro jig.
The process mostly went very smoothly, my 2 pieces of advice though are...
1) Go slow, even if it means milling less than the hash marks each time. No need to go fast or rush through.
2) Go slow and don't get into a routine. We made a single mistake when milling, and at the very end of the process. Luckily it was recoverable, left a couple gashes that are really cosmetic, but we got into a routine of changing the milling depth and squirting some WD40 and milling, and changing the milling depth and squirting some WD40 and milling, and.... Forgot to changing the depth guides!!! And at the trigger pocket hole stage!! Pulled it out quickly when it started to chatter. Got lucky.
--m
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22 minutes ago, BartCarter said:
1. The "hook" is the brass ejector.
2. You can leave the gas tube hole alone or plug it, your choice. It has no function in a blowback AR.
I like the lightening cuts!
Thanks for the quick reply.
Brass ejector... Did not guess that.
Knowing that its a blowback operation, I was confused why QC10 even includes the hole in their 9mm side charging upper. I turned this into a Christmas "father/son" build project while visiting family, so we were able to grind down an appropriate screw to fit and be flush in my dad's shop. While small, we don't like the idea of a hole that things could get into since my KVP handguard does not fully cover it. I was also wondering, in general, about gas being able to escape through the hole, or if I'm simply over-thinking in that regard.
--m
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Hello,
Just starting to get into the AR and PCC world and decided to dive in head first... I'm in the process of building an AR9 from the ground up, even using a 5D jig to mill an Iconic lower. It probably would've been smarter, being new to AR internals, to start with something already built, but... Nope. :-)
At this point (and I'll probably have more questions), but I have a couple of questions that I don't have good answers for yet.
1) On my lower, it came with a metal "hook" that looks like its either meant to help guide the bolt or... Do something else. Based on other pictures, I'm 99% sure we have it installed correctly. The question is simply... What is it? What's its purpose?
2) With my QC10 side charging upper, it has a hole for a gas system? Why? Should it be left open or plugged (with a threaded insert that I don't have)?
Thanks for any help!
--m
Handguard Replacement Question??
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
That looks like what I've used, but got directly from here: https://www.plastixrevolution.net/