[New Czechmate Comp]

I like where this is going. In for the results 

[A tale of two guns]

Sounds like a extractor issue. Could be a spring or a faulty new one.  I would switch the uppers and confirm it does it on both frames.  (Easy to do because you have both handy).  Second you can take the slide off the one you know works and side a piece of brass under the extractor, then compare it to the slide that has the issue.  If it’s brand new and your not comfortable you can sent it back to cz and they will fix it.  Or you could have a competent gun smith look at it.  Just and fyi, those pins are a pain to get out and I would not re-use them.  

[Shadow Mag Catch Screw]

22 hours ago, Dutycalls75 said:

For breaking free small screws I’ve heard of people taking a soldering iron and touching it to the screw to heat it up as opposed to using an open flame, like a lighter. The soldering iron better directs the heat were you need it.

 

As recommended keep the mag release in the frame for leverage purposes.

^ This is exactly what I did with mine.  About 90 seconds with the tip inserted in the center of the torx.  Firm pressure and mine came right out. It was scary tight as well.  This works well with small parts due to the localized heat. 

[CZ mag pouches question]

I use the DAA race master with the thin back, and thin side inserts on my shadow 2 mags.  You have to make sure the thin insert is locked in correctly and the tension screw is set all the way out.  I have not found another pouch that I like better, but I also run them bullets out with my 30" waist.  YMMV 

[how to clean blast residue of my c-more lens]

20 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

 

Is denatured alcohol better than 91% isopropal alcohol?

 

If so, where can you get it?

Any ace hardware store carries it.   But I’ve always just used toothpaste.  Works great on plastic or glass.   I always rainx it after as well like  mentioned  in the above. 

[My Shadow 2 modifications]

11 hours ago, rowdyb said:

That's the range I belong to, so I know those are true distances.

 

Talking to  a couple people at a match today about Shadow 2 mods and they mentioned this thread and the question most aksed was, what's the bare minimum I can get away with doing and be happy with the gun? I think the answer to this questions is probably:

• lighter main spring. 8 or 11lb one if you run Federal primers. 13 for anything else.
• lighter recoil spring appropriate to your ammo and grip. anywhere from 9 to 13 pounds.
• grips that you like.

This presuposes you already have mags for the gun and are basically familiar with CZ I guess, but I still think you could do just these three things, under 100 bucks worth of stuff, and be very happy. Add in a little bit of polish work when you take it apart and the 10x bushing and I really think you're done. Depending on your price new and taxes, that get's you in and done with a gun that will always work and be no excuses in Production for 1,300ish dollars.

 

 

 

This. I wanted to get into production to see if I liked it before diving head first. Your  description above is pretty much spot on to what I’ve done.  A great pistol out of the box and a few  minimal adjustments to match the shooter. Done and done. 

[Wilson Combat Semi-extended slide stop for 2011]

On 11/14/2017 at 8:50 PM, RangerTrace said:

Have any of you tried one of these slide stops in a 2011 style pistol?

 

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Semi-Extended-Slide-Release-38-Super_9mm-Bullet-Proof-Stainless/productinfo/613SS/

 

Slide lock reloads are kicking my tail in IDPA and I need a little help hitting the lever with my index finger.

Hey hey, I’ve been running this on all my single stack 1911’s for a few years coupled with the matching safety.  I had problems reaching with the standard size ones and I don’t really like to break my grip.  It’s very easy to manipulate that control with your thumb (or index finger if you’re a lefty). Dropped in just fine and worked.  My only gripe is the finish on one I received was not to great.   Ymmv. 

[CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas]

Hey hey all.  First let me say, what a great informative resource for the cz guys.  Coming over from single stack 1911s to the shadow 2, the cz’s are a joy to shoot.  

 

New shadow 2 I’ve Flat blocked and polished to a mirror finish.  Have not made any spring changes yet as I’m still getting the hang of the hinge type trigger. Im curious about the double action end of this. I hope this isn’t outside the “101” part.  I’ve noticed that my double action break is breaking a bit after my single action break.  (Or SA is breaking before  depending on which way you look at it) This causes a excessive amount of overtravel in the single action, somewhere around a few mm. If you were to adjust the over travel screw down to make the SA overtravel less it will not be able to break I’m DA.  What I would like to do is bring both the SA break and DA break closer together. Either by making the DA break earlier or SA break later. This would allow me to set the overtravel screw for both actions with the smallest overtravel.   I do understand there’s a trade off with the reset.  I do see from the photos of the trigger bar and sear for the DA / SA break.  I’m just not sure if bringing them closer will effect the timing elsewhere.  What would be the best way to go about achieving  this? 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

PS ~ sry for the long winded post.