AF2010
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Posts posted by AF2010
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I ended up with Anderson's to start and although its a great book that I would recommend it doesn't really offer anything new for me that I wasn't already doing. Maybe stoegers will offer more since it was "the hopkins" drill that got me fired up to find new stuff to work on...That one continues to frustrate me
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Eventually I will have both, but the wife's birthdays next week so I've got to take it easy spending on myself. Order placed for Andersons.thanks for the input!
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Starting to get burned out on my regular Dry fire routines and looking for some fresh new ideas... Do you guys recommend one of these books over the other?
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I was just out organizing my reloading stuff, and had about 8,000 rounds of .45 in 4 cardboard shipping boxes that I decided to dump into one 5 gal bucket... this got me wondering.. how much weight is too much for these bullets before they deform? I would hate to get to the bottom of the bucket and find that the rounds have become damaged. I guess im looking at about 200 plus pounds in the bucket at the moment and no I dont plan on moving it lol
anyone done this without any issues?
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I use both of them...have a few more cobras than ETMs but really don't prefer one over the other for any functional reason, though I am having problems with one of my cobra mags with rounds nose diving and hanging up on feed ramp
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38 minutes ago, Ming the Merciless said:
Yes, if you have access to a drill press, a good file with a safe side and some patience.
If it's a two piece guide rod, unscrew the front piece from the head, then chuck the short piece of the guide rod as deep in the drill press as it will go. If its a one piece, just chuck the rod in the drill press as deep as it will go. Set the drill press to as slow as it will go and very gently apply the file to the side face of the 'button' of the guide rod with the safe side of the file towards the 'flange' of the guide rod head. Use caution to keep the sides of the button square to the flange. Let the file do all the work, do NOT press heavily against the guide rod. File a very small amount and check the fit. Repeat as necessary. When it just fits, chuck the guide rod back in the drill press and gently round the leading edge of the button to the same profile it had previously.
Perfect! I didn't even think about the drill press and was probably headed for disaster without it.
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On 3/16/2019 at 8:59 AM, CHA-LEE said:
I can't speak for STI's ability to build 1911's properly. But it doesn't set a good example by getting the gun in that condition in the first place. Throwing a longer link in there can resolve the issue of the barrel bottoming out on the link instead of the frame. But doing that also increases the chance of the barrel then locking up on the link instead of the lower barrel lugs when the barrel is in full battery. If the link is too long it can also cause a timing issue when the barrel unlocks it isn't pulled down far enough to fully disengage the upper lugs and you end up with peened or damaged upper lugs in either the slide or the barrel. Unfortunately there are several "Lazy" ways to address this exact issue, like putting a longer link in it. But those "Lazy" fixes are rarely an effective long term fix which don't end up causing other issues.
I also don't want to throw STI under the bus. From a customer service and remote troubleshooting perspective they have to give the issue some type of failure description and potential fix so that their team has some clue as to what to look at when the gun comes back for service. My day job has me troubleshooting complex electro-mechanical devices remotely and I have lost count of how many times the onsite service engineer explained a failure mode of a mechanical component completely wrong. For many of those cases it wasn't until I was onsite myself to see the situation first hand before the root cause of the failure could be accurately identified and resolved. Basically put, don't give the initial remote troubleshooting diagnosis much priority. Wait until they get it in house and look at it first hand to resolve the issue before you pass judgement.
The good news is that STI seems to have turned a new leaf when it comes to gun build quality and customer service. They seem to have embraced the fact that their quality had slipped in the past and have made it a priority to resolve those quality issues. This is a good thing for all STI customers. I say give them a chance to make it right and withhold your judgement until you get the gun back from repair. Don't be surprised if they swap the barrel and or the frame. I doubt they would go through the trouble to weld and remachine these parts verses just replacing them.
Well, I got the gun back today with a new barrel that seems to be properly fit this time and a new magazine included free of charge!!
I will get the gun to the range ASAP to confirm function but so far I am extremely pleased. They were very helpful and polite along the way also which is a big deal to me. Above all id like to thank CHA-LEE... If it wasn't for your knowledge on the subject I would have never known my gun had problems until the worst possible time I'm sure
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So after speaking with numerous people including STI on this issue and Test fitting a standard guide rod out of another one of my 1911s, I went with the regular tungsten guide rod and it doesnt fit. The button is just a hair too big and allows the rod to rock up and down.
Is there any way I can safely fit this thing myself?
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All I own are single stack 1911s in .45 and I'm in my late 20's (seems like the majority shooting 1911s are older guys). I love the platform and like the challenge of increased reloads and prefer the feel of .45 recoil to all others.
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On 2/22/2019 at 10:52 AM, CHA-LEE said:
Possibly. It all depends on how much "Meat" in on that portion of the new barrel. If the barrel channel in the frame has been cut back too far then it doesn't matter if you put a new barrel in it or not. You will have to either swap the frame, or weld some material on the barrel. As I said before, this issue can be an expensive fix.
Well I contacted STI to get their opinion after my Trojan failed the test you mentioned. They immediately requested I send the gun in so they can "look at it" they sent the shipping label and a note to send inside the gun box that says "inspect and re link" I guess they think a new link will fix it. : (
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Just got some grips I took a chance on from amazon and am really happy.
The brand is called Coolhand. I got the golfball pattern G10s... They are just as good as the VZs ive had and they only cost $35 bucks.
Comes with new screws and O rings as well and the packaging was impressive.
will buy these over VZs from now on
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I just installed the EGW koenig trigger kit and SVI trigger on my Trojan 1911... Everything appears to be functioning fine except I'm now getting 2 clicks on reset. First click happens as soon as I begin to rack the slide and I can feel it in the trigger. And second click is the normal reset as I let the trigger out.
Any ideas what's going on?
I'm thinking its the disconnect?
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9 hours ago, RJH said:
Yeah, i plan on shooting them. It will be nice having a match that close. I will probably shoot there and Coleman most of the time, and i make it to San Angelo occasionally but , San Angelo is a pretty good drive for me. They are good people and have fun matches though
Nice. See you out there hopefully!
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14 minutes ago, RJH said:
I used to be a member at that range, and it is pretty nice. I even shot sillywets out there a time or two, but i have no idea if they still do that or not.
haha It took me a minute to get it... Yea Ive seen them shooting rifles at those little steel animal shapes a couple times. Sucks cause they closed the pistol range while they were doing it, even though the two areas are completely separated. No disrespect to those that enjoy it though, just not my thing. Do you plan on shooting at the big country 3 gun Matches?
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Oh man I Would love to attend the match at big country 3 gun... Ill be in FL on vacation that weekend though unfortunately. Im praying its a huge success and the matches continue on because driving to Abilene on a regular basis would be so much more convenient for me.
I really wish the gun club in Sweetwater was interested in USPSA.... We actually have a surprisingly large range with lots of potential and supposedly 260 members but somehow Im always the only guy out there LOL
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18 minutes ago, davidb72 said:
Boss Hanger from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop is a good choice for a hanger.
I almost ordered that one after reading all the good reviews but was concerned about the lower portion rubbing on pants, which some claim is an issue for them. the hanger from Berger precision was recommended and at $35 bucks shipped I figure its worth a chance!
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2 minutes ago, RJH said:
Where are you shooting at? you are just down the road from me, or hell, we may have shot together, i am horrible with names haha
Nowhere yet LOL I have yet to shoot a single match but I trained all year last year with intent to shoot matches at the club in San Angelo this year (closest thing to Sweetwater that I know of)
Im in the process of getting all my gear situated so I can finally have some fun!
Stamford is near Angelo if im correct?
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11 minutes ago, ChuckS said:
Did you look in the rule book?
Appendix D5
LOL yeaaa that would have been the wise thing to do. I got in a rush due to very low stock on the holster hanger I wanted, and first thing I thought was to ask you guys. Thanks for the info! hanger ordered.
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10 minutes ago, RJH said:
Yes you can drop it now, same as production
awesome. thank you
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So, im shopping for a single stack holster mount and one manufacturer has told me that the rules were changed this year for single stack and a drop is now allowed.
Just wanted to verify this with you guys before i make this purchase.
I tried searching for this info and didnt come up with anything, so i apologize if its already been discussed here.
thanks
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So having a new barrel fit should eliminate this problem if done correctly?
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5 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:
When you replace the link you can easily test it to see if the barrel is bottoming out on the frame when fully unlocked (as it should) or if its bottoming out on the link (which it shouldn't). This can easily be tested by taking the slide stop pin out, then reinstalling it so the pin portion is installed properly in the frame and link, but the lever portion is hanging down towards the trigger guard. Then place the tip of the barrel against a solid object, like a bench, then push the gun forward until it stops and hold it in that position. This will generate the correct barrel unlock & bottom out position scenario. While holding the gun forward firmly in the unlock & bottom out position, rotate the slide stop pin by pushing the "Lever" portion front to back. If the barrel has been fit to the frame properly, there should be ZERO resistance while moving the lever portion of the slide stop front to back. If there is resistance while moving the slide stop lever and that resistance corresponds to how much forward pressure you push the gun into the bench, then the barrel is bottoming out on the barrel link instead of the frame. The barrel bottoming out on the link in this scenario is the #1 reason why barrel links break.
To fix this issue you need to weld more material to either the barrel or frame where they should bottom out against one another. Sometimes this isn't possible and a new barrel or new frame is needed to fix the issue and both parts must be fit properly to one another.
I just checked both of my 1911s... My RRA has zero resistance when following your instructions but my Trojan definitely has some. thanks for ruining my views on what I thought was a great pistol LOL
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I would send it to STI. Maybe they'll look the gun over while its there and address any other potential issues
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9 hours ago, Rnlinebacker said:
legally for the division it must be a bushing barrel. preferences:
-0.090 front sight (I prefer all black because fiber optic blooms and right eyes astigmatism causes sharpness issue)
-Dawson or Techwell(require proprietary grips) Magwell
-adjustable rear sight 0.125 to go with thin front sight
-flat trigger such as X-line Vario or Infinity (I have EGW tank tread)
-single sided safety (hands are big and right first knuckle sweeps right safety up constantly)
- pinned grip safety (I use CK Arms grip safety that's designed to sit flush against frame)
-EGW Ignition kit(best trigger parts available)
-G10 grips
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
interesting gun you have there... Trojan slide on a different frame?
EGW HD or Practical model extractor?
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted · Edited by AF2010
Just picked up one of the EGW practicals... So far its been harder to get to work than the couple other brands Ive done myself. I cant seem to get enough tension on the case no matter how far its bent. thinking i might need to work on firing pin stop area to bring the extractor hook closer to the case rim.
Edit: now I've figured it out. Had to file down the pad to get it working. Apparently this is standard procedure when fitting extractors and my statement about it being harder to fit is false... It was my lack of experience. Seems like a great extractor now!