alvo89
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Posts posted by alvo89
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On 9/12/2017 at 5:41 PM, ern1911 said:
I ended up buying a trigger bar from EAA and installing that rather then cutting the BOLO it works perfect and I still have the new style trigger bar.
I just got some new parts today, a fresh old gen trigger bar with a new bolo. They replaced the new style trigger bar with the modified bolo that fit that one. Polished the snot out of the bar and did some live fire today. S2 ran 100% with 13# hammer spring. Hope I can run 12#, high hopes for 10. New BOLO needed no fitting/modifying at all.
So with one more count of experience those with the new style trigger bars, you can alternatively buy a fresh old gen trigger bar instead of doing surgery to a BOLO.
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On 7/7/2017 at 3:28 PM, Jake Di Vita said:
Shoot each target with a normal stance. After the first target, pull the gun in to your chest and pivot to face the next target with one step. As soon as the turn is completed start extending the gun back to the target.
I do this and I found my accuracy to improve. After engaging the first target, I feel the efficiency of pulling the gun to the chest as I'm only exerting energy to turn and not fighting the momentum and swing of my gun fully extended.
On 7/18/2017 at 4:01 AM, bradsteimel said:As soon as the last successful shot breaks on the left target, your eyes and head need to SNAP to the next target. Bring the gun in a little from the extended arms length to allow for more aggressive turn, and then drive the gun aggressively toward the next target.
For me, on the first/left target, your weight needs to be on your left foot with the right foot slightly rearward and with the toe slightly pointed to the next target. After breaking the last shot on the first target, and during the transition to the right target, you weight shifts automagically to the right foot which is now pointing to that new target.
Hope this helps.
After the turn I pretty much transition my energy into driving my arms/gun forward which for me by now naturally points on target. With the eyes looking ahead of where I'm going, my arms will naturally drive there. Just like driving a car, you drive towards where you're looking.
And as with Memphis and chenault are saying it helps to sort of keep the upper body square like a turret so transition with your thighs. I don't have much practice with that but just moving around right here I take it you're gonna want have your knees bent to transition with the thighs. I think moving with your thighs would be more for smaller angles tho. With wide turns you're gonna want to move you're feet and do some footwork.
All pretty good tips here. Nice reading what I'm thinking being formulized.
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Hello everybody,
I'm new to shooting sports and shot my first USPSA Pistol match last month. It was super fun and I felt I decently performed for my first time in Production. Shot slow and accurate, next match I won't be banging into walls and will make sure to pay attention at the stage briefings (acted like a newb when one stage was started holstered and UNLOADED)
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With my situation living in Southeast Alaska, there are no local shooting matches of any kind besides trap shooting, so I have to travel to do any shooting/competing. I work in a restaurant and make good tips so I plan on traveling all over every couple months and shooting with everybody at their local USPSA matches (in Area 1). Next stop is either Hawaii or Mesa, AZ as I have friends to lodge with. Any suggestions of where the bigger USPSA communities are with the funnest matches?
In my hometown of Ketchikan, Alaska we do have a decent enough range to host Steel Challenge matches, I'm hoping to learn how to host and sanction actual matches sometime in the future, maybe take a program with the NROI.
Anyway, as I'm already hooked on USPSA, I hope to expand the sport and community and look forward to reading through all the wealth of knowledge in the posts and threads of all the various forums here.
-Alvin
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What works for me in my stock 2 is 147gr bullets with an 8# recoil spring. Recoil is soft and flat with my reloads.
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4 hours ago, SoCalShooter69 said:
They should be in stock soon. Our machine shop took a massive hit from the hurricane, and put us back a few weeks.
Is your DA short? There's a mod to get a longer DA throw, if that's your issue?
Well in my case, one day after cleaning the internals of my S2 with new trigger bar and cut BOLO to fit the new bar, the gun would short stroke in DA. Before that it was running reliably with a 15# hammer spring. So after that I just put back in the factory disco. I did try some grease in some spots and reinstalling all the internals to see if it would not short stroke, but no luck. I might try installing it again tonight.
3 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:How did you modify the Bolo?
The Bolo does not push the hammer back as far as a stock disconnector, and requires more hammer spring to light off marginally seated or harder primers.
Modifying the nose of it to increase the DA stroke length got my gun reliable with every primer I used.
I usually fed it CCI Magnums using a 15.5lb spring, and it ran on Winchester and S&B primers all day long with a 13lb spring.
Even a stroked Bolo doesn't crank the hammer back quite as far as the factory disconnector did, but that doesn't mean it can't be reliable without needing heavy springs to get there.
I removed material at the inner curve to fit the new trigger bar and I did actually remove material at the nose when the BOLO was working in my case. However with the tools I had, I removed material more throughout the inner curve as opposed to the targeted area as shown here and on the PD website. I was not able to further test if it would run lighter hammer springs (14# and below). So with that said I don't know if the removal of material outside of the targeted area in the curve would adversely affect the DA making it short stroke.
So basically I did get the BOLO to work as intended, but somehow it started short stroking DA after cleaning and reinstalling internals.
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10 hours ago, ern1911 said:
I ended up buying a trigger bar from EAA and installing that rather then cutting the BOLO it works perfect and I still have the new style trigger bar.
oh...good thinking...
So you had a Tanfo with the "gen 2" trigger bar and installed the older version bar with BOLO into it? Installed with no problems?
I might try going that route when PD gets more BOLO's in stock. For reliable DA, I have to use a 15# hammer spring with my cut BOLO as opposed to the setup I have now with the factory disco and 13# hammer spring. Maybe the stock geometry of the BOLO will fair better.
After much training, factory trigger feel with polishing and lighter hammer spring isn't so bad tho...
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8 minutes ago, aandabooks said:
I have a set of the Henning basepads available in red if you are interested in upgrading to aluminum. I have 6 for $60 in the classifieds.
Sorry, I already have 6 black ones installed on my mags. I could've clarified that better. Was just wondering if the BSPS orange floor plates fit with the henning basepads. I imagine they would, just looking for first hand experience.
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So the plastic locking floor plate in one of my Stock II magazines broke. Anyone had this happen to them, and if so how often?
I'm deciding to get a new one +spares when I can justify making a parts order. I'm looking at the BSPS orange floor plates. Does anyone know if they will fit with the Henning production basepads? The BSPS website says they were designed for tanfo mags when used with the shockbottle basepads. Should I just stick with the factory tanfo floor plates?
I appreciate any input.
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So the plastic locking floor plate in one of my S2 magazines broke. Anyone had this happen to them, and if so how often?
I'm deciding to get a new one +spares when I can justify making a parts order. I'm looking at the BSPS orange floor plates. Does anyone know if they will fit with the Henning production basepads that I already have installed? The BSPS website says they were designed for tanfo mags when used with the shockbottle basepads, but I imagine they would work with the hennings. Should I just stick with the factory tanfo floor plates?
I appreciate any input.
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Read a bunch, went down the rabbit hole and finally ponied up and bought a RCBS hand-primer. I got my primers seated in the 0.01" range. Loaded up some BBL's and they were 100% reliable with DA. Before the hand-primer tool, ignorant me just didn't know how deep primers could even go! Thanks for the schooling everybody.
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Thanks everybody for the input. After reading half of that Stock II Xtreme Mod list thread and the posts, it's all coming together now with the further detailed explanations.
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21 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:
As for the press - that single stage press is not capable of seating primers to the depth you need them. I started on the Lee single; been there, done that, participated in it. If you've been able to keep the single lee running okay, you'll do just fine with a Loadmaster. The stock disco isn't a fine tuned piece, as in, you can't put a supercharger in a corvette and expect it to run just as good on the '87 gas you've been using. We've all been there, and there has been extensive discussion about bolo vs. primer depth and reliability.
Hmm, after scouring through forums I take it it could be the primer depth. Maybe I'm not putting enough pressure (I go until it feels like it will crush) or the press is incapable.
I reload for bolt and match rifle and never had this problem since I'm using fresh, consistent Lapua brass, but I guess reloading pistol is just another animal.
I'll tinker with my press when I fly back home.
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So for clarification what could be at fault would be not deep enough primers or rubbing firing pin block?
Because my S2 will fire off all my reloads in DA with my factory tanfo disco installed. My glock 17 will fire them all also. My primers are under flush, so they should be even deeper?
I feel like I narrowed it down to the BOLO, but is there something still for me to learn that I'm not quite comprehending about the overall mechanics?
I actually ended up shaving down my BOLO a little bit and from not firing any rounds from DA it now ignites about 16/20.
Im going to use the stock disco for my match tomorrow but would like to get the BOLO reliable for the future.
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Ah, that thread looks like a good read
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26 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:
1. How deep are your primers? If they're. 060" or deeper, see #2. If not, what press are you loading on?
2.
They are under flush at about .0005 with CCI and .003 with Winchester.
I'm loading with a Lee classic single stage press (it takes so much dedication loading pistol
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Further update:
After further testing of modded BOLO to fit my S2 with the new trigger bar, I get light primer strikes on the DA pull only. SA hammer drops afterwards will fire the light struck rounds.
I tested Winchester and CCI primers, both failed on the initial/any DA pulls. This was after removing about .025" from that curve. Ran the S2 with the factory interrupter/disco and fired DA 100%. This is all with my reloads.
I examined how far the hammer pulls back with the BOLO and it's not pulling as far back as with the factory disco on the DA pulls. It releases at about 30-35 degrees w/BOLO rather than closer to the 40-45 degree mark with the factory part.
Any thoughts to remedy this/mod the BOLO further?
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Little update for those curious. Took some sand paper and went to that area. Took about a movie's worth of time and .025" off that angle. Everything functions perfect now.
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Ah well, that's life.
I'll see if I can borrow a dremel from someone around. Only have 220grit sandpaper here, that'd take too long. The wing is only rounded now so should be good.
Thanks for all the help.
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2 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:
Okay, that's good news. We know what that is. Tanfo increased that area on the new trigger bars by .020"
Send an email to Joe, and I'm sure he'll works something out with you.
You would have had to remove .020" off this area for it to sit in the trigger bar.
Well that's one less thing to stress about. I'll email Joe. Was hoping to be able to use the BOLO in my first match this coming weekend. The mods I have ATM are nothing to complain about tho
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Should I let them remove the material or is this something I can perform myself.
Also was this information mentioned anywhere that I missed in the search bar?
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3 minutes ago, alvo89 said:
It looks like the one on the left.
Sorry scratch that comment. It's like the one on the right. My apologies. Had to get a light on it and really look.
Right one.
2 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:Did you put a different plunger spring in?
Same stock plunger spring.
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5 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:
Does your trigger bar look like the one on the right (in the tail where the disco is seated)?
It looks like the one on the left.
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2 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:
Removing material from the wing is if DA does not break. As in, the hammer goes all the way back, and does not drop. Is that your problem, or is the hammer not moving at all? You should not have removed any material from the 90° wing, if your bolo isn't catching the trigger bar.
Did you contact Patriot before you decided to do this?
As haiedras also asked, have new is your S2? There has been a slight change in trigger bars with the new imports.
That's what I was thinking from the PD website and why I stopped to actual see if it was contacting at all.
Hammer is not moving at all.
I wasn't able reach them due to the time difference.
If I can't rectify the situation due to the material removed, ah well.
My S2 is fairly new I take it. I believe made in 2017, it has the "FT-IT 2017" marking different from pics of other S2's I've seen.
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Large frame, it's about a month old. I did some polishing to the trigger bar before I got my new parts, but nothing substantial to remove material. Let me get a picture.
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I'm having problems with installing the BOLO. I got some new parts to put in my stock 2: xtreme trigger, 1pc sear, titan hammer and the BOLO. I've got everything to fit and function except the BOLO. I've tried using the stock interrupter with all the new parts and it would engage the trigger bar and make the DA pull (that's correct yes?). However with the BOLO installed it glides right over the trigger bar making a "dead" pull. I've got the SA pull to function which feels awesome without the creep in the trigger.
Now did I do something wrong or am I missing some crucial piece of info? I've read on the PD website to remove material from the 2nd angle which would be that 90 degree angle, yes? I took a couple swipes at it but after just looking at how it all fit when it was installed it seems there's no contact at all between the BOLO and trigger bar.
Any help is much appreciated.
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Greetings from SE Alaska
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Lots of good fishing around where I live in the Southeast if that's your thing.