gsc0tt
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Posts posted by gsc0tt
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On 2/18/2018 at 3:46 PM, Cahamp said:
So with the upcoming changes to production, what are you guys going to add/subtract to your Glocks?
I am planning on at least and extended mag release but I am unsure of which one. I may eventually do a complete trigger kit but again I don’t know which one. I may break out the dremel and get a little undercut on the frame too.
g34 mag release, its $3
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On 12/5/2017 at 7:45 AM, rpm8300 said:
Hey everyone - I just wanted to share some of my experiences setting up an M&P for CO. Please feel free to shoot me any questions.
I started with an M&P 9L CORE Ported - it comes with a ported barrel and some relatively small slide cuts. It also comes with a Jpoint 4MOA look alike. Its not a bad optic but not really the best for CO. First thing was a non-ported barrel to make it CO legal.I settled on an Apex drop-in which still needs some fitting. Out of the box, the Apex won't fit through the hole in the slide and wont lock up - they have a great video and I ended up taking a small amount of material on the front of the barrel, and then a little off the back of the hood, and finally a little off of the bottom of the ramp. Their video explains what needs to be done perfectly and the barrel turned out to be very good product. It is extremely accurate but I'll get to that in a bit with the load data.
After the barrel, I played around with springs - I bought the steel non-captured guide rod from Speed Shooters Specialties. That fit fine and worked well, but after learning more about the gun, I figured out that it takes the old Glock recoil springs as well as a G34 tungsten non-captured guide rod. The SSS guide rod is a little heavier but doesn't extend to the edge of the dust cover. The G34 guide rod actually seemed to work better than the SSS, but thats because I'm running a 10lbs old Glock recoil spring. It will work with the flat coil springs but I found the best recoil spring for my loads is this one from Shooters Connection: https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Wolff-Glock-RECOIL-SPRINGS-1717L-20-21-22-24-31-34-35-P3491.aspx
NOTE - this is for MY heavier softer loads - more about that later. For factory 115 or 124, I would run a Glock 13lbs flat coil, or maybe an 11lbs. The lighter spring is important to prevent muzzle dip - recording the gun in slow motion, I fought any heavier spring and I had dip, and any lighter, the gun wouldnt run reliably.
The M&P also takes Glock striker springs - if you run Fed SPP, you can run them 100% with a 2lbs Glock striker spring. Id go with a 3 or 4 lbs if you're not willing to play the easter egg hunt for Fed SPP. This light striker spring allows me to get 2.5 trigger break easily - more on that in a bit.
For mag bases the Taylor Freelance worked extremely well - good fitment and 100% functionality. I have been running the gun with springs that came with the base pads for about 4 months with no issues. With the TF +5 springs you can fit 22 by design, and if you cram it you can fit 23. Depending on recoil springs and loads, you can reliably run 23+1 at the buzzer.
For optics theres a little bit of drama. Long story short, I took material off the front of the pre-existing cutout to fit a Deltapoint Pro. M&P advertises that you can run a Deltapoint with its OEM plates but that is for a first gen Deltapoint. To get a DPP to fit you need to take a little bit of material off of the front of the cutout, and take one of the plates and shave down some plastic at the end of it. It sounds like a lot but wasn't really a big deal. The alternatives are plates and adapters that I didnt want to fool with. You can run other optics right of the box as advertised, but for CO, Ive found the DPP is the best with the Sig Romeo 1 taking 2nd place. On that note, there is a 2nd gen R1 that blinks at the top of its brightness which is the one I'm referring to.
For trigger, Burwell has a very comprehensive powerpoint if you want to do it yourself. I recommend buying the Apex production legal guts and then doing a little polishing work to finish it off. Just the Apex guts made it about 80% of its final config - minor polishing and sanding, as well as some JB weld to take out of the pretravel took it the rest of the way. It has a very nice clean 2.5 lbs break with minimal pretravel. After shooting a G34, Walther PPQ Q5, and Sig P320 X5 all prepped for CO, I'll say I like the M&P the best. In fairness, this is just my preferences - other guns can get 2.5 or lighter.
Loads - long story short here, this gun with the Apex drop-in barrel properly fitted is extremely accurate. For lighter bullets, i.e. 115, 124, no surprises, very accurate. For 147 and 165, this gun maintains its accuracy, whereas other guns have had issues. I ended up settling on a 158 Berry RN plated bullet at 1.16 OAL with 2.8gr of VV310, Fed SPP. This gives about 128-130 pf and is super soft - it also shoots 1.25" groups consistently at 20 yards. My buddy David Wampler, who some of you know as an extremely talented GM open shooter, swears I'm crazy for running these heavy bullets - again - all about preference. An alt load is 165 Xtreme plated with 2.7 VV310 at 1.16 which gives about the same PF, but shoots 2.25" consistently. All of the 147 loads, from Blue bullets to Rocky Mountain plated shot very accurate and as expected velocities. 147 RN Freedom Munition reman shoots 1" consistently and chrony'd at 862 fps in cold weather in the DC area. Great practice load.
If you're in the DC area and what to check this out at a local match, let me know.
Pictures and a vid of me running this to follow.
-Tom
Didn't know that about the non-flat recoil springs, I need to try one
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Maybe convert to the new sear block with larger sear spring and plunger? Apex had me do that to my older version
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On 3/16/2018 at 6:17 AM, RickyH said:
Thanks for the help guys. Took the Shadow 2 with the bushing apart today the barrel did come out without filing on it.
Ya almost has a sweet spot, mine is the same way
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On 3/13/2018 at 9:12 AM, littlewing6283 said:
I used to try and gave up and just went with contacts. Watching this thread to see if there any better solutions as im not a fan of contacts
Going down the same rabbit hole myself
Just when I thought the super thin ESS was the end of the quest for the ear and eye protection combo, I find out apparently I can't see
Going to try some RX oakley Turbines, if that doesnt work contacts under my ESS
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1 minute ago, Jake Di Vita said:
Absolutely, I agree. Not only high, but inward as well.
Only inward pressure on the grip is not applying the force towards the barrel axis. The difference is the internal rotation needs to be done at the height of the thumbs to try and get the line of force as close to going through the very center of the barrel as possible.
When you say skeletal leverage, I think what you're really trying to say is body position. The problem is you need muscle tension to achieve this position. I don't see the point in "relaxing" once you've gotten your body into the ideal position. First of all, if you relaxed you would instantly lose the position. Second of all, that's the best possible place to apply force. Third, you have to apply force to generate friction and more friction is a good thing. The problem is it is hard to apply that force consistently. That doesn't mean you stop and go to relax mode, it means there is more training to be done to make applying large amounts of force into the gun from the ideal position extremely consistent. It can be done. I have a piece of general advice I give to people that I teach....if you're comfortable, it's probably at the least less than ideal.
You can become a really good shooter by operating with a relaxed methodology. I firmly believe it has a lower ceiling than a more active approach.
Its definitely not relaxing after everything is set, just like you say there is no point in relaxing and un-doing all the necessary tension that was just set up.
Initial relaxation as a baseline then adding only what is necessary (which yes is a decent amount to shoot fast).
11 minutes ago, CrashDodson said:Last i understood of biology muscles/tendons move the skeleton. How can one apply pressure with their "skeletal structure" without using their muscles? I could just be completely ignorant on the subject but I am lost AF.
Adding pressure at the hands without adding tension at hand muscles, sorry didn't mean use no muscles and tension at all and be a big blob
-If you put your finger inside a nut cracker and close it, the most efficient point would be to operate it at the very end of the arms to get the greatest effect with least input (leverage). The clamping force is being derived from a different location of where the actual clamping point is, being applied through leverage
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I have always been curious about these, have you compared the next to a standard slide, i was wondering how all the added weight in the slide alone would feel
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Harry ... youve got that crazy look in your eye
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1 minute ago, Jake Di Vita said:
Ok. What is the goal of this position? Where on the gun are you applying the leverage and pressure? This is a critical piece of the interface between your hands and the gun.
When it comes to recoil management, the ideal point of leverage on the gun is along the barrel axis near the tip of the barrel. Obviously, we cannot grip a gun there, so we make compromises on the grip to where it is practical, but still gets as close to that ideal leverage point as possible. You don't just end up there by magic. You need to put yourself into that position and then hold the integrity of it while shooting. That critical piece I referred to is it is not enough to just be contacting the gun at a good leverage point. You need to do something with that ideal position. We want to apply that force as close to the ideal leverage point as possible to have the best mechanical efficiency available. I don't think any of these points are negotiable.
So from that perspective, do you think the nut cracker technique is consistent with the premise I outlined above?
High to the bore line as possible, always
Nutcracker [skeletal structure] leverage imagery (referring to inward pressure onto the grip of the gun with relaxed hand muscles/meat below thumbs) is what came to mind of an example of applying pressure with skeletal leverage instead of muscle tension
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I'm sure this one will be familiar
"Let it do"
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Id recommend handling both prior to the choice, even shooting at matches or back to back
Might help your decision
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Bull TS
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One method I saw that seemed interesting was having wall sections separate than end pieces. 2x4's with bases as ends with j-hooks, then wall sections with eyelets to hang on the end pieces.
Little more work for initial build, but then replacing wall legs is much simpler since you don't have to create a whole new piece
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On 3/21/2018 at 8:33 AM, dspring said:
First of all THANK YOU for the great deal of information made available on this forum, very helpful for people like me.
I am a prudent reloader, but not an expert one. Have been loading 9mm for a few years but recently I have encountered a new problem related to making PF in CCP.
I have, on the personal recommendation from the owner of BBI, tried Ramshot Competition which, according to him, has a "much better recoil impulse" than the powder I am used to, Titegroup.
The recipe was 135gr BBI, 3.8gr of Ramshot, and OAL 1.100
My average velocity was 913.7 which does not make PF, and this was shot with an SP01, outside temperature of 64.
910.8
916.6
947
898
929.2
880.7
Incidentally, I am also concerned about the spread, which seems to way higher than what I get with TG. It is a nice load, recoil seemed very linear but I need to make PF. Also, why the spread?
Do you please have a recipe with RSC does makes PF even in warmer temperatures (I am in Texas).
Find a buddy with another chrono and side by side each to see any differences in FPS reading
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using the 145 bayou round nose currently, no issues
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I do have a DAA mini mr bullet and I like it, however i purchased it with store credit at BSPS, that being spend if I was spending cash I would wait for the standard model
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I switched to a DAA click adjuster for fine tuning, and just use the scale to get in the ball park for new loads, pretty cool
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Just now, Jake Di Vita said:
I've seen them.
Funny that people like you can never answer my questions.
Best of luck in your future training and matches.
Leverage pressure:
Treat your fingers at your front strap like a hinge point
As you bring your gun up from a low ready position, if your pivot point is set, your hand and forearms will close (use imagery of a nut cracker)
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30 minutes ago, Jake Di Vita said:
I'm sorry but this literally makes no sense at all from a bio mechanical position. How exactly do you think relaxed musculature is putting pressure into the gun? How exactly are you using your skeletal structure to add leverage and what are you adding leverage to? How do you think you are controlling skeletal position if you aren't tensing any muscles? How is relaxed muscle more consistent? How does relaxed muscle create more friction? What are you creating that friction against? Creates more friction? More than what? What data do you have that corroborates your position that what you're doing now is better than what you were doing before?
How did transitions become "easier"? What was the problem you were having with them before?
What does muscling the transitions mean? Create an energy dump? What does that even mean? You're using a bunch of funky terms to describe something without actually describing it at all.
What class are you?
Here's the thing. It's actually hard to learn to apply force into the gun in the correct way consistently. It takes consistent work over a long period of time. It sounds to me like you chucked it out the window prematurely. Don't delude yourself into believing that the easy way is the best way, as it almost never is.
As of today I'm averaging 47 minutes per day of dryfire for the year. There is no optimal amount. 15 minutes a day is infinitely better than nothing.
This is why my first post is was so ambiguous, figured attempting to paraphrase and describe what I discovered at TPC would just initiate flaming, true
Lots of Ron Avery videos on youtube, check them out and if they seem interesting go for class. If not then keep on trucking
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On 3/18/2018 at 1:29 PM, Nayr said:
Hey folks,
Is anyone aware of a grip for CZs/Shadow 2 that would mimic the very aggressive feel of the PT Evo grips for 2011s? Handled a friend's 2011 build at a match today and it was exactly what I was working for with those grips - super aggressive.
I'm currently running Lok 's S2 Bogies with the texture covering the entirety of the grip (custom order). They are decent, but I would prefer something more aggressive. The CZC lemon graters are pretty solid, although a bit thicker than I'd like.
Appreciate the suggestions. Thanks.
DAA thick, its what I ended on after trying CZC thick, various g10 from amazon, and hennings.
It has a very square side and also pushes the "corner" of the grips back, creating a larger overall radius
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On 7/14/2017 at 5:28 AM, Prov1x said:
Anyone using the M&P 2.0 5" in USPSA yet? If so how do you like it compared to the "pro" model?
What mods have you done to it, trigger - sear - apex? - recoil spring etc?
Thinking of picking one up to try out as I used to shoot one back when I first started shooting USPSA.
I think it will be overlooked due to things like gen5 glock and the Q5 match, etc, etc
But with the new rulings i think forward set sear apex trigger, plus all the other good stuff (apex barrel), MP will be great for production
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On 3/18/2018 at 9:37 AM, fxdc said:
It will never be at a 2011 level BUT I'm just a REBEL!!!!
The 1lb 10oz trigger works RELIABLE.
The 8.8gr of 3n38 works almost great ,
Shoots pretty flat.... but wanna try 9.0 and 9.2 Dot track better than HS-6 and STRAIGHT.
(Outta 124gr PD JHP until they arrive)
And wanna try a 12lb glock spring, have a 13lb in it now.
Is there play in your slide? I have so much play in my slide left to right I thought about doing an frame mount optic to an open minor setup I had but figured it would be silly
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I have SSS large brass and small brass (i think they called it L10)
I use the large brass when I have brass weights inside a TLR1 upfront, and use the small brass when I have a TLR1 with actual batteries in it
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23 minutes ago, yigal said:
impact to slide stop came from the barrel cam after it finish to travel with the slide during the lock up .
there is no connection between stroked slide and slide stop. only the speed that barrel cam hit the slide stop in both directions.
Call JJ
Shadow 2 carry optics guide rod question
in CZ
Posted
I remember seeing a post about maybe a p09 guide rod, not sure how that would work since it would also be short