buckyjames1
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Posts posted by buckyjames1
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bought one a while back
round count: +/-20K
Issues: None
Primary ammo used: primarily 124gr target 1150fps, occasionally 115gr target , 147gr target, various defensive ammo
Accessories: Trijicon SRO, Greyguns trigger work, TLR1 flashlight
Brief results:
Positives: Have really enjoyed this gun. Accuracy is great, comp does work but it is not the flattest comped gun I have shot. Ergos are spot on, SPR(Smiles per Round) are high. Finish is great and seem very durable. Weight distribution is good but this gun is a tungsten infused grip and you absolutely notice the additional weight. Cleaning is very easy, same as a normal P320, if oyu need to take off compensator a simple unscrewing of the screws allows a good compensator soak/scrub. Putting the comp back on is just as easy since its times from the factory. I have not had issues with the comp coming loose during extended firing. Magwell is relatively large, weighted, and fit to the inner grip is good to go.
If you already own a full size 320, and want to just swap to your old P320, its as easy as taking off the upper and putting it on your polymer p320 lower. Now you have a comped but lighter P320.
I have shot 115gr, had no issues but initial 1K break in was done with 124g
Negatives: Although this pistol will put you in open class due to comp, it will not compare to a full open class gun. Have I used it in open...yeap, just to mix things up and utilize my instructor gear in a competition setting. Weight is definitely a factor if you just want to use this in tactical/field gun. My only major gripe would be the price and OEM trigger.
The price point they put the Specter Comp in, should have a better trigger from the factory. This is an expensive range gun and it should have come from the factory with a few stone swipes/polishing, and possible 1-2lbs taken off from Sig,
Dont be fooled by the gold FCU/trigger internals.
t’s a standard FCU with a Ti-N coated frame and Ti-N coated flat-faced trigger nothing more, nothing less
Over all:
I absolutely enjoy this gun, the extra weight reduces recoil, combined with the minimalist aspect of the comp, it is easier to shoot. Shorter barrel/slide with a comp from the factory, makes it fall into the full size P320/X5 length. I have not fidgeted with new uncaptured recoil springs but I do feel like from the factory, its 2-3lbs over-sprung. It is built like a tank and has performed well for me after a high round count. Where would I categorize this gun? Fun gun, semi tactical. I use it as my primary for instructing classes along with a stock P320, G17. Do I have buyer's remorse? NOPE!
Newer from Sig:
They now allow you to purchase the complete upper as a stand alone piece. If you already have a P320 full size, just buy the upper, and now you have a comped OEM build at a lower price than the full Specter Comp gun
YMMV
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If a GLOCK is all you need,
And a "fancy" gun is not needed
Take that GLOCK into Open/Unlimited, see how that works out.
If a shooter sucked with an ATLAS, he would suck with a GLOCK, he just needs to shoot more, by him, I mean ME!
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I buy nice guns cause I can afford them and like the way they look, feel or shoot.
Most of the "that guy has a nice gun but can't shoot for crap" are suffering a bit of envy.
1. Do you think the XXX Pro...Nationals champ really didn't tweak out his GLOCK internals,
tweaked his trigger to his exact specs, sights to what he wanted, ect?
2. Do you think that XXX Champion could smoke us all with a derringer? Prolly so. But I can bout guarantee you, that pro has some really nice guns in his vault that he shoots with as well and if he is honest, would have to say...
"Yeah, my ATLAS shoots alot better than my GLOCK 34"
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I have these type of discussions with a friend at work who roles alot in Jiu Jitsu
1. A black belt in jiu jitsu vs a high level black belt. A high level black belt vs a competitive high level black belt.
There is no limit to the skills, making GM is a classification for the competition in which we play in.
The game consists of micro skills that all together make the shooter.
2. If...I was to make GM(which I am not), and have only been a GM for 1 month....How the hell am I going to
out knowledge, out experience, and ultimately outshoot a dude who has been a GM for 1yr or 5yrs and has been
competing against other GMs and learning the more intricate ins/outs of our competition game
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I bought a complete sprting kit (22-20-18-15-13-11lbs)
I started at the 18lb(about the glock factory)
18lbs: no difference
15lb: slide a tad bit easier to manipulate, no noticeable difference while shooting
13lb: slide Definity easier to manipulate, Definity easy on the recoil/impulse side
11lb: VERY easy to manipulate slide, noticed even less impulse ...BUT....I could feel the slide not locking into place. Occasionally when chamber checking, I would have to gently knock the slide to fully lock up. 11lb just did not feel right at all.
The kit didnt come with a 12lb spring.
For me...13lb was the way to go
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Check out the full tungsten rods.
I am tweaking a glock 17 at the moment.
So far:
Previous tungsten guide rods: were an allow and not full tungsten. Did not perform as advertised.
Full tungsten guide rod installed: A noticeable felt difference. Glock 17 with lightened slide was not NEARLY as snappy.
By nearly I mean there was a noticeable improvement.
I am now tweaking the recoil spring weights to see what works all together.
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I too am playing around with some reduced springs.
Trial one:
11lb: too light, numerous failures, if doing a chamber check, slide would not fully seat/lock
13lb: slide locked into battery during chamber checks but occasional malfunctions.
Trial two:
15lb installed. will attempt/try to remember to post results.
*What I did find interesting in these post:
If I do lighten the recoil spring...I need to also possible reduce the striker spring?
Gun
glock 17 gen4
Slide: lighten cuts top/sides
Don't think I am a fan of these cuts and the lightened slide.
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Having this issue since I purchased the gun.
Going to give it one more chance..will ensure they are cleaned, degreased, and properly loctited.
If this doesnt work, I will about be forced to buy that Canadian version that holes on both sides of the frame.
This will also force me to have a milling shop drill and tap the new holes on the frame.
Very frustrating when shooting!
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Was doing a local USPSA event when I had an issue
1. Went to reload from slide lock
2. Inserted a fresh mag
3. Slide would not ride forward
I attempted to utilize the racker and it would not allow the slide to go forward
After 2-3 attempts, I removed the magazine, allowed the slide to go forward, inserted the fresh magazine and re-racked from the closed slide position
This worked and allowed me to get going again.
I am using MBX 170mm magazines and they are new
My gun is definitely due for a thorough cleaning
I inspected the magazine lips and top opening to see if any burrs were present, didn't notice anything out the ordinary
Some people post that the slide lock pin does go out and needs replacing, is this the possible indicator?
I also had an issue with my reload, the opened magazine wells of the CZs have a small lip that isn't flush with the internal of the grip
I was thinking I might have to dremel/bevel the magazine well flush with the bottom of the grip fram
Anyone done this?
Thanks for any input
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Just re-read this post and compared my times from my original posts.
1.4sec now down to 1.1 (comfortable), 1.0 doable .90s rushed.
Biggest thing that got my speeds down were:
1. Finding out when I can perform fast movements: initial hand movement from sides or surrender TO gun...move as fast as possible.
gun draw from holster to target...move as fast as possible
2. As pistol is presented to target: take out any slack/stage the trigger
3. As soon as sights are on target: Take the shot. Don't slap the trigger, just give it the last lbs. to make it go boom.
Basically, break down your draw into 3 phases and get used to shooting from a timer. A drag racer gets used to taking off when red lights go to green.
A shooter must get used to hearing and reacting to the timer's buzzer. 1/10th here...1/10th there does indeed to start to add up
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This year I decided to try out the Trijicon SRO on a GLOCK 17
So long RMR...RMR is going to be sold!
Its strange how much such a little viewing area increase vs. the RMR actually makes.
You never know until you try it out but for me..SRO won.
Only caveat is that I have relatively low round count on the SRO.
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Setting up a rifle platform for a DRM course and could use some help with the build. In particular the scope rings and even more specific the height.
1. Gun: Noveske 18in (complete w/VLTO Vis monolithic)
2. Optics: nightforce NXS 2.5-10x42
3. Range usage: various up to 600m
Issues: The only extra scope mounts I had laying around were a set of Leupold MK4 aluminum 4 screw 30mm High mounts, which I knew were going to be too low but used as a baseline.
The Leupold states height is 1.04. I am currently looking at various manufacturers with heights ranging from 1.375, 1.4, 1.5. Since the rifle is a VLTOR/Mono, i will probably be
going with 2 piece rings (quick detach is not needed) 4 screw, aluminum.
Question:
Basically, what is the practical height. Pretty subjective question but with these leupold MK4@1.04, it seems like a 1.375 or a 1.4 height would be the way to go to allow for some
flip cap lens covers and get the height I need without getting "too high from the bore" issues. 1.4 seems to be a good one, 1.5 being too high? Or..is the 1.375 the way to go?
Thanks for the input,
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Cz checkmate?
in CZ
On 3/5/2020 at 6:26 PM, Eli_a said:Have you shot any factory 9mm minor ammo through it with the comp?
I have shot numerous factory ammo 115, 124, 148s.
Surprisingly, it feeds, ejects, cycles with no problems, with the comp on.
And by factory, I mean manufacture stated velocities, 1050-1180 fps "range ammo" types.
I have used some of the black hills higher velocity and in both Comped/standard set up, the CZ tamed those loads nicely
Only issue I have is x2 of the magazines wont lock to rear on last empty mag.
Didn't start out that way but you know the deal, dropping mags on hard surfaces = gonna have an issue sometime.
I think all the mags could use a tune.
Problem is, Im shooting in CO division and due to the fact that current job involves instructing on the P320, my personal P320 gets all the attention
QUESTION:
At what round count are you guys replacing recoil springs?
Or is it ...waiting until the spring wears out?
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Romeo vs. Trijicon:
Romeo: mounted on P320
RD count: appr. 5K
Usage: Local competition, tactical classes, general range
Issues: none so far, slight wear on outside of housing due to 2+ years of crawling, barricade work. Light could be slightly brighter for daytime/bright sun usage
Pros: I prefer the true magnification vs. the trijicon. had no issues with battery life, POI/POA shift, Romeo has held up as expected. The romeo, when mounted, looks more OEM or factory vs. my the trijicon mounted on my GLOCK 17
Trijicon: mounted on GLOCK 17
RD count: appr. 30K+
Usage: Local competition, tactical classes, general range, pistol and site has been put through all the abuse you can think of with a high round count pistol
Issues: none so far,
Pros: tough as a tank, outside housing shows minimal to no wear, scratches, dents/dings
Cons: not true no magnification, viewing area is noticeable smaller than the Romeo. I'm just slightly faster on site/target acquisition with the romeo
Had to order a space/water protection for mounting the trijicon on my GLOCK 17 that should have been included in the trijicon
Although my GLOCK 17 was "milled " from factory, it sits too high because GLOCK decided to mill for a "one size" fits all red dot
Thoughts:
Want a tank of a site = trijicon
Want a slightly larger and clear glass/viewing area = romeo
Want a Sig manufacture problems warranty = romeo
Want a factory milled and "OEM" looking rig = romeo
*IMO, both sites work as advertised and it all boils down to how your eye likes the glass/viewing. If I recommended one or the other, it would veer off into a "fan boy" club.
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Had a redhill for my P320rx which Im currently using (Thanks Carry Optics class!)
Had a weber made for my CZ Checkmate.
weber went into the "box of bad decisions"
Redhill is on my belt and used, would buy again
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Cz checkmate?
in CZ
So far my Checkmate runs fine, not saying that means everyone else is lying or restating internet read articles and issues.
Round count at +/-10K
Came with x2 barrels,
* Of note,
- x2 magazines have stopped locking to rear on last round.
- Difficult to get front sight/rear site aftermarket sizes correct, In attempts to get a more visible front/rear when playing around in limited form, I've ordered twice and messed up twice
with round impact being 8 inches then 4 inches low. (was my bad on ordering wrong height sights)
- Although a small critique, my trigger has a tad bit of side to side wobble
Positive notes: Nice trigger, that trigger is constant using trigger pull gauge! Very consistent
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$2650 for mine NIB:
1. 2K rounds of 124gr aguila factory listed at 1115fps with no problems so far, pistol configured with and without comp set up.2. 500ish rds of Seller n Bellot factory: A few failure to feeds (did not fully feed into lock up), Ammo is dirty and gun felt as if she needed more lube than normal amount. Felt sluggish.
only ran S and B in no comped form.
Over all eval: She will run with factory bulk crap for casual range sessions, but she will react better to higher pfs.
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I recently switched from front and rear combos to black rears with color front in my Glock 17. I did find it beneficial especially since I am right hand/left eye dominant. Game changing? No but it just seemed to clean up the sight pick up process a tad bit.
- Originally I went with a .245 height that was recommended by Vickers but it was absolutely too high. Broke out the file and ended up with a .232ish height, touched it up with some blueing and POA/POI are once again united. By filing, I was able to eliminate my tendency to sometimes hit alittle low with my Glock 17.I removed, what would seem like alot, but it worked out fine running 124s and 115 bulk ammo. @25yd, it is a wee bit high but only at the slow and steady trigger pull pace. If I push the split times faster, all is good. If I do a 6 o'clock hold at 25 its on, if I do a POA/POI its still good.
- Maybe this is Glock sights specific. My new CZ is black/black so it is easier to get front sight/rear sight alignment but at the cost of less visual color contrast in lower light situations. That thing is dead on. Not sure if I am going to swap out for some fiber optic, gold bead, or contrasting front sight...not like its going to be a carry gun.
Glock 17 sights are the Vickers Elite battlesight. Different rear sight height as well as front sight height
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I too am stuck at around 1.4.
I think my problem lies with the last movement and trigger pull. I think I extend alittle too far out with my arms and try to get too good a sight picture before pulling.
On a side note, last range session I had a few...pre-intended trigger pull timings. I'm getting used to a 1lb 12oz trigger of the checkmate. Shots landed high as I was still coming on to target. Gonna take some time to go from Glock triggers to a great SA trigger.
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I had the same problem on my brand new one.
Used some wood as protection, vised it in, and gave her some turns, it came off. The same had to be done in reverse in order to get the slide to line up correctly.
The last ...1/10th, I had to really grip and turn but I could feel when it reached its full seat, it stopped and definitely wasn't going on any further. Guess that's part of precision...there is no slop.
I was nervous on over torquing because the barrel has to be in the slide but so far so good.
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Yeah, I wrote them up for 5 evolutions of each drill and have a space for Par Averages and split averages.
Figured 5 runs would be a good start with the point of this to be a tracking test, not a training session.
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thanks for input,
- I like the loaded mags idea vs. only enough for evolution, this would also allow for misfires/jams or misses as well. I think its better to complete the drill as opposed to running out of ammo and would provide the feedback that misses matter. It would also reduce the evolution's over all time to complete. Usually when I do sustainment training at local range, there are 3-4 people in the class.
- I think I will just add the 4 aces drill to make it 8 drills.
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Decided to start from the beginning and developed a basic shot card to get statistics and better track progress.
The intent is to gather data for beginner/intermediate shooter oriented skills.
I would like to keep it fairly simple, are there some simple standard type drills that are not on the baseline card?
*Yeah Bill Drill and El Prez are what I would consider higher skilled but they seem to incoroporate all aspects of the basics hence, why I put them at the end of the session.
*No movement drills, that will be on yet another developed card
*trying to keep the session around 150-200rds, This would enable me to do twice. I have learned that once I reach around the 400rd mark, I begin to drop off performance and easily go into "Just sending rounds downrange'" mode,which I am trying to avoid.
Edit: One more thing, is there a standard or general accepted name for these drills? That way I begin to learn and use standardized verbiage as well?
Comments welcome
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1. Re-establish baseline pars and splits with new pistol in order to track progress
2. Streamline exercises with goals in order to better track progress
3. Utilize "Baseline" shoot card and begin to track
Gunsmithing Instructor needed
in Help Wanted
Posted · Edited by buckyjames1
Took an AR15 armorer course at that facility.
Initially I thought it was a college that did gunsmithing courses as electives...NOPE...
Full gunsmithing school!
From woodworking, to lathes and fabrication. Hell...they even have courses on forging your own blades.
Their website has classes and courses for non students as well.