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Gviz

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Posts posted by Gviz

  1. So what’s the latest fix for CCI and federal small pistol primers with this thing? I’ve given up on Winchester’s. I still get 4-7 upside down primers. 
     

    What combination of mods would work? I’ve been switching V1 and V2 plates and still have flipped primers. Trying to loosen and tighten the screws looking for that sweet spot. I also have a bunch of primers Left in the cup (About 15 primers) and the primers are not making it out of the collator.  this was with federal primers. On every tube it jams a couple of times before going into the shoot I have to power it down and rotate the drum to release the primer that was stuck at the mouth of the shoot. I’ve also experienced the whole thing pushing upwards and trying to fall apart right in front of me. I really want this thing to work but all I hear is click click click click and I’m waiting for this thing to feed the tube. I’m still babysitting this machine same as the RF100 it replaced.
     

    I reloaded 4000rds of 9 major yesterday. while holding the power button of the DAA primer pro I shut it down when I see a flipped primer and flip it when it enters the tube. I need to tune this so it’s hands free...

  2. On 12/10/2019 at 8:20 AM, Posvar said:

    The 510C is the easiest optic for me to "find" quickly. It may be window size, height of where it sits on the mount, etc. For the money it's a great choice. Take the outer shroud off and it will be lighter and won't look like a tank on top the gun.

    I have it on my open gun as well my problem is with the dot brightness it gets washed out a bit on sunny days. Do you experience the same thing when the sun is behind you?

     

    im hoping they would come out with a bigger moa so the dot will be easier to find

  3. I got sold on the idea of pressing  the button and look away. And for almost $400 for a kit that didn’t perform 100% and picked primers I was dissatisfied. I tried everything coz for that big of an investment it had to work. Hahaha! I’m still holding on to it since using CCI primers now and the amount of flipped primers is tolerable compared to wsp which was a nightmare for me.
     

    So once the DDA primer system comes out and beats the consistency of the rf100 then I have no choice but to put it on sale. As of now this is the best option for me so I’m still keeping it around.

  4. Moved on to open division and now using CCI primers. Loaded 5000 rounds of 9 major automated. Then checked all ammo on a hondo case guage. Still have flipped primers but managed to get less than 30 rounds over 5000 rounds loaded.
     

    im keeping the rf100 it seems its less work vs the vibra prime more fiddling and transferring it to 10 dillon tubes. 

  5. I’m very frustrated with my priming of small pistol primers!

     

    FA vibra prime = gets it done 100% no flipped primers but still needs 2 hands fiddling around until all 100 primers get in. Then I have to transfer it to 8 tubes before starting my  reloading session.

     

    dillon RF100 = faster than the vibra prime and finally after months tinkering I got it to work with small pistol primers 99%!  but, I still have to deal with upside down primers about 8/1000! Can’t take my eyes off of it! I have to baby sit coz it jams and it needs a little tap here and there to continue to fill the tube. When full just dump and load 100 primers while reloading. No need for extra tubes.

     

    I’m hoping this new DAA primer pro works without you watching it and that will be a winner!

  6. So many failed hacks and diy tuning I finally called Dillon and ordered everything that I modified in some shape or form. Now I’m back to OEM stock configuration. This was the last chance I’ll be fooling around with this rf100 before I put it Back in the box.

     

    1. i put this thing on a concrete floor made sure that it was leveled. Checked!

    2. Turned the rheostat to the lowest setting. Checked!

    3. Tuned the clear plastic so that no upside down primers made it pass this gate. Checked!

    4. Tightened the screw on the blue tab underneath the dish and loosened it 1/8 at a time until the primers did not spin and just sank in smoothly. Checked!

    5. Polished the blue tab with rubbing compound and dremel. Checked!

    6. Used federal small pistol primers! Checked!

    now I get 99/100 I think I can live with that.

     

    Problem is I just ordered a vibra prime and tuned it hahaha it works 100% but the question is it’s more fiddling with the tray and tubes vs the rf100 just dump it and watch it go...

     

     

     

     

  7. 8 hours ago, RiggerJJ said:

    Are you sure the RF is dropping upside down primers, as in, can you see it happening as they go into the top of the tube? If so, turn the reostat down until they don't flip. It's pretty easy to adjust...

    If not, it's doing it job and your primers are flipping on the press. (Which is usually the case)

    Once the primers are in the tube they cannot flip...just an fyi

    I have rheostat setting at the lowest. My problem is once it gets over the hole it spins and spins then it’s a toss up if it went upside down or not.

     

    but, if you guys have another way to lower the setting a little bit more (less vibration I’m pretty sure there might be a big possibility of solving this issue I’m having) I feel the vibration is too strong even on the lowest setting 

  8. Finally had the time to test WAC vs 3n38 side by side with mix brass, MG 124 round cmj. Did a load ladder and picked the loads that made 170-173 power factor for both powders. Then loaded 200 rounds of 3n38 and WAC

     

    Ended up with:

     

    WAC 7gr  For 172PF

    3n38 8.5gr for 171PF

     

    accuracy was almost the same supported and free hand 15-20 

     

    bill drills at 7 and 2 shot drills at 10.

    I had 3n38 faster on the timer and has a smaller group over WAC so the question is will I switch...

     

    yes, but I’m setting up an ammobot at the moment and I’m not sure it will manage to load 3n38 without making a mess. So I’ll start loading WAC and finish my 8lbs then try to tune the ammobot to load 3n38 if not I’m stuck with WAC 🤦🏻‍♂️😂 

  9. On 2/19/2019 at 9:16 AM, GregJ said:

    You probably got some pull backed primers, or ringers, which caused the kaboom.  IMHO,  The only real fool proof way to avoid this is to process your brass first. Or buy processed brass, or have someone process it for you.

     

    I load/process on an AmmoBot driven 1050, both 9mm and 45ACP.  

     

    Process: 

    Station 2: Lee universal decapping die with AB Berdan sensor. Lee pin ground to 45* and vacuum to pull primers off (these two things alone may help you a lot).

    Station 3: The Judge sensor, with Primer Pocket Probe.  The Judge catches all sorts of bad stuff and tall cases, the probe catches primer pull backs, ringers, etc.

    Station 6: Dillon size die minus pin

    Station 8: EGW-U die minus pin

     

    Load:

    Station 2: Dillon sizing/decap die, just in case a non-processed piece of brass sneaks by.

    Station 3: Lyman Die in place of expander.

    Station 4. EGA primer hold-down die

    Station 5: powder drop with MBF PTX

    Station 6: MBF bullet drop

    Station 7: Dillon seat die

    Station 8: Dillon taper crimp die.

     

    Hi GregJ, how do you setup the vacuum on station 2 thanks in advance  

  10. Tried brass juice on my 9mm once fired brass put them in the FA wet tumbler and set it to run for 1 hour. The timer stoped dumped it all into a strainer and wow amazing shiny brass looks like jewelry! I’m not kidding I was so excited starting my next batch! Dumped the shiny brass divided Half to dry on a towel and the other half on the FA dryer just to see if there was a difference when it dried. Both maintained  the shiny new brass look! Im really amazed! Used the same mixture for 2nd batch after an hour dumped the brass onto a strainer and wow clean and dull brass!!! What?! I couldn’t believe it I was so heartbroken 😭 washed it and mixed a new batch of solution and I’m still waiting I hope this gets it as shiny as the first batch... 

     

    update: 

     

    after an hour dumped the 2nd batch in the strainer and yahoo shiny brass again! 

     

    Oh oh I was reading the instructions Use distilled water. I used tap water maybe that’s why it might have had a dulling effect on the 2nd wash. Who knows... all I know is fresh water and brass juice equals shiny brass! 

     

    No pins!

  11. 11 hours ago, GregJ said:

     

    Congrats on the AB, and welcome to The Borg.  :)  

     

    Thanks to DWFAN, and others, I have now what I feel is now a very good processing setup, and very closely mirrors DWFAN.  This is for 9mm primarily but also for 45ACP.

     

    2. Lee uniersal decapping die with Berdan Sensor.
    3. The Judge die
    6. Dillon die minus decap pin

    7. EGW-U die

     

    The decap die obviously decaps, and catches Berdan primers.  The Judge die is awesome, as it will catch 38s, 357Sig, etc, as well as foreign material inside the case that the decap pin might punch through.  Case in point, I had a lot of brass that came from a shoot house, and almost all of them had rubber chunks inside that did not come with dry media tumbling.  The pin punched through, but The Judge caught them!!!  If they had made into the loading process, the results would not have been good.  So I am a big fan The Judge die.  

     

    Thanks GregJ, 

     

    i asked about the judge die if it would work with swaging and they say it won’t. Are you using a sensor in line with the judge? 

     

    Having one 1050 means if I can’t use the swage with the judge I’ll be swapping out the swage with the primer pocket prob everytime I reload or process. That’s a lot of setting up to do so I was hoping just swapping out toolheads would be the way to go. What’s your take on that to make it work, so it won’t be such a PITA to go back and forth with the swager and sensor? Thanks in advance 

  12. 9 hours ago, DWFAN said:

    Depends. If it is 100% 9mm and doesnt need swaged or 38 super removed, i'll do this:

    2. Lee decapping die
    3. Ammobot pocket probe
    Anywhere else: dillon sizing die

    If it needs swaged or 38 Super sorted out:

    2. Lee decapping die
    3. Swage rod/backup (if no swaging i'll use judge die and ammobot extractor here)
    6. Judge die
    Anywhere else: dillon sizing die

    I buy once fired brass. I use a shell sorter in 9mm it takes out the 40s&w I get 1 or 2 of those every 3000rounds. then sort it again with the 380 plate I get 5-6 every 3000 rounds from a company I order my brass.

     

    Once I’m done i pass a big speaker magnet to pick up the metal cases rarely get those. Then I rollsize them this is where I catch maybe 1 38sc. When I fill up a gallon container I wet tumble with brass juice then dry and lube.

     

    on my current  reloading tool head 

    EGW U die

    redding expander

    EG primer hold down

    dillon powder funnel

    redding comp seating 

    redding comp crimp

     

    Planning to build a processing toolhead I already have the dies but still holding off with the toolhead. Planning to do this if it makes sense?

     

    2 lee universal  decapping with squirrel daddy pin and AB berdan sensor 

    3 dillon hold down

    4 none

    5 none

    6 lee standard sizing die no pin 

    7 none

    8 EGW U die no pin

     

    pls advice and thanks in advance 

     

     

     

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