DFIVE3
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Posts posted by DFIVE3
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16 hours ago, YVK said:
Getting dirt from your hands on the optic or smearing whatever might be on it over the window to me is a larger concern. Shouldn't prevent one from being able to shoot unless it causes a refraction error and double dots. I rack the same way as with iron sighted guns but base of my thumb does touch the optic.
I agree with this. When I first started shooting CO, I would rack off the optic (When shooting a G17). Since I switched over to a Shadow 2, I just use the cocking serrations on the front of the gun and have been successful.
I will say that if you have a solid mount and torqued screws, you should have an issue with racking off the optic, but I don't personally find it beneficial.
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22 hours ago, slavex said:
Springer Precision sells a really nice aluminum retaining plate that works with the Henning pads, been using them for a year or so.
Another vote for the Springer retaining plate. Not to mention, great customer service overall.
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Shot this one on Saturday.
Carry Optics:
7A, 1C, 4.50 seconds
8.4444HF
92.9611% Master
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3 hours ago, LuvDog said:
The look good... Epoxy and Silicone Carbide are so easy to do and make such a big difference.
Thanks! And so far I agree.
3 hours ago, Seakphotog said:So, hmmm, I kinda like this idea. Question: do you mix the SC with the epoxy and apply it as one layer or do you lay down the epoxy then "sprinkle" the SC over/onto the epoxy?
Thanks!
The video I watched and what my wife ended up doing was applying the epoxy and then sprinkling the SC. Worked out pretty well.
1 hour ago, zombywoof said:I added a layer of Gorilla Glue construction adhesive to the back of my skateboard tape. Add a little heat when installing the tape and it doesn't come off. I then wrap the grip with rubber bands until the glue sets. Works great.
The glue can easily be removed when replacing tape.
Solid way to make sure the skateboard tape would be secure.
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I finally got around to adding some SC onto my stock grips. My buddy dropped off some 60/90 SC and I ordered the epoxy on Amazon. I ordered the 15min, but they sent the 5 min cure. So I prepped the grip panels with 350 grit sandpaper (the grittiest I had in the tool box) and cleaned them off with 91% Alcohol. Then my wife decided to jump in and assist with the epoxy and SC portion.
I let them cure for 24 hours and hit a dryfire session today. The panels felt pretty good. I will be shooting a match on Sunday, so we will see how they hold up after that.
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Check out Precision Holsters. They have done a couple for local shooters.
https://precisionholsters.com/products/phast-competition-holster.html
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I went to go post here:
But noticed that it has been archived due to inactivity. I am guessing either this isn't a popular classy or just isn't posted much.
Shot this last weekend.
19A, 1C, 15.78 seconds, 6.2104, Low Master class in Carry Optics
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Slide Stops
in CZ
I've been lucky enough to have only broken 1 slide stop and that was at a square range while practicing. But I agree with other shooters, it's a fairly inexpensive part to change out yearly (depending on your level of engagement). For local matches I wouldn't stress too much. But if you will be attending majors local and distant, might as well change it once a season when changing out your springs.
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I guess I have been pretty lucky. I have been shooting two Shadow 2s and I pulled the front sight off both (replacing the barrel bushing pin) with no issues. Maybe all the carbon and range dirt have been keeping the pin locked into place
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I have been running a CGW 11.5# hammer spring. And it was doing fine with factory ammo. Once I started loading my own rounds, I would have some issues with CCI primers not lighting off in DA. I adjusted the primer depth and added a Patriot Defense 12# hammer spring and no more issues.
I would say if you are running factory ammo, drop in a 11.5#. But if you plan to reload the 12# is the way to go. There is a very slight difference that is not noticeable after a couple dryfire sessions, but a improvement over the DA factory pull.
Also, you can get a reach reduction kit to assist with the distance your trigger finger will be pulling.
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A final follow up. I adjusted the seating depth to seat the primers a little deeper and I swapped out the 11.5# CGW spring that I bought back in April. I dropped in a Patriot Defense 12# hammer spring. There was a noticeable DA trigger pull, but it was not nearly as bad as the 13#.
All rounds went off flawlessly at the match this last weekend with the deeper seating and new hammer spring.
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On 3/4/2022 at 6:03 PM, tanfoglio1911 said:
Which magazine tube you were using?
Using the stock CZ 17 round mags. The black mag body with the CZ emblem on the front of the tube.
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I have ran the Henning and the TTI basepads with a stock springs with no issues. I forget what the round count was. I believe it was a 21 round capacity with stock guts.
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On 2/28/2022 at 7:42 PM, Tippingvan said:
Been awhile since this was posted, but do you have any pics of your RHT holster you could share? Thinking of grabbing a nitro fin for my S2, and am wondering how I’d modify my holster.
Reach out to John or Scott at Precision Holsters. They made a custom holster for an SP-01 with a thumbrest for a local shooter. They should be able to make a holster for
you.
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On 2/13/2022 at 1:15 PM, StefVanHauwe said:
Every dry fire session 25 reps SHO and 25 reps WHO. Every live fire training we shoot at least 1 full open mag on S/WHO. Most L1's also have at least 1 S or WHO stage in it.
On 2/14/2022 at 8:19 AM, Smitty79 said:You need to practice one hand shooting enough to keep from "cratering" a stage. As a newbie, being able to transfer the gun safely to your weak hand and being able to shoot all As weak hand, with no time limit at 10yds, and 15 yards strong hand, with no time limit, is just fine.
Your division is also a factor. If you are shooting open or carry optics, you should probable do more one hand dry fire until you can reliably see your dot come on target, without having to look for it.
Personally, I was terrible at weak hand. I put a little time into it and now I look forward to it.
I would agree with both of these statements. I practiced it very little when I shot Prod and Limited. Shooting CO now and there is more hunt for the dot if I am not indexing properly. I would say I toss in about 20 reps or so of (Surrender Draw to SHO, reload to WHO) and (Surrender Draw, grabbing gun with SH and moving over to WO). I honestly have not seen much outside of classifiers at local matches. But it's still good to work on. Dryfire and confirm with live fire on range days.
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1 hour ago, Intheshaw1 said:
Is your brass completely dry? If you're wet tumbling, make sure you are completely drying your brass. My brass goes from the wet tumbler to spin dry to towel off to dehydrator and they are dry and I know they are. When I first started reloading I thought air dried was good enough but then popped some primers and it was still wet so I picked up a cheap dehydrator off marketplace.
I had primer depth issues when I moved from a 550 to a 1050 I had my first light strike with a slightly below flush primer, CCI 500s as well. I actually cut a piece of brass for setting swage and threw a primer in that to see what it looked like and realized there is a lot more you can adjust it down. I also measured with my calipers as the video shows to make sure I didn't go too far and I haven't had an issue since.
Yes, I dried my brass and it has been sitting for at least a week. I use a light coat of case lube. I use the spray 2-3 sprays in a 1 gallon bag, drop 5-6 handfuls in, shake and move brass around. Then lit sit on a towel for about an hour method before loading.
As for cutting the brass to have a clean view, that is a good idea. Thanks
51 minutes ago, ddc said:Can you expand on "I ran a couple deeper, but was having issues with the brass getting caught up in the shell plate?"
I guess it is not obvious to me how seating primers deeper would have an effect on "brass getting caught up in the shell plate".
Just here to learn... thanks.
Being new myself, I was more cautious than anything. Check the post above this, I covered it on there. Once I backed off a 1/8 turn, no more issues.
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4 minutes ago, Farmer said:
Those look better, a little more flat surface to them. If you look at your first picture closely you can see that the primer in the PMC brass is concave yet it didn’t light. All the energy was used to seat the primer. Seating them firmly against the bottom not only keeps it from moving but also helps seat/push the anvil to the top of the cup. Beings the WW primers aren’t plated they may also seat easier and are more sensitive. I take it when you say your cases were getting stuck was that there were burrs on the rim that were hanging up?
Copy that, thank you for the input. As for the stuck cases, you are correct. I noticed that once I may the original adjustment of a 1/4 turn from my second adjustment (made the other day), I noticed that the brass was getting burrs on the rim. I wasn't sure what was causing that from primer seating.
My first thought (being new to all this) is that maybe I had adjusted too much on the primer depth and when I was seating primers I was pushing too much to the point where it might have been flexing the rim on the shell holder. I figured it was a long shot. Thinking that if I set them that deep, I would have one pop off. I figured it would be smarter to back off a 1/8th of a turn.
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5 hours ago, AHI said:
That is a property seated primer.
DFive3 now make yours look like that.
So the first pic with the Winchester primers is how I have been loading. I adjusted the primer seating depth again for a deeper seat with the CCI 500s. These are definitely below flush and I feel like they are good. But I am not hand priming like Farmer. Just running them through the 1100. I ran a couple deeper, but was having issues with the bras getting caught up in the shell plate. So I backed off an 1/8th of a turn and the result is the Federal case in the second pic.
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7 minutes ago, Postal Bob said:
Curious, how old, or how many rounds through your 11.5 lb hammer spring? It could be your hammer spring weakened somewhat, and that is why it failed to set off your primers. And why putting in a 13lb spring felt so much heavier. A 1.5 lb spring difference really should be hardly discernable. So it's possible your 11.5 lb spring got so weak, it was probably more like a 9lb or so. Try a new 11.5 lb, and see how it feels, and if it sets off the primers.
I have approx 2-3K through this spring. Probably another 1-2k in dryfire. So yes, it could be that my hammer spring has weakened a bit. I'll see how the 12# feels when it comes in. Worst case, I'll pick up another 11.5# down the road when I tag it on another order.
3 minutes ago, AHI said:Your regular calipers are all you need to check primer seating depth. No need for anything else.
Right, I tried that and came up with inconsistent results. Probably just operator error when getting the measurement. I used this YT video. I'm new to the reloading scene and have been searching around forum searches and google to find better ways to measure.
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38 minutes ago, Sarge said:
Those look like light strikes. Primers should be seated at or below flush. For your next test try to fire again after initial misfire. If they go off then the primers are too high.
I double check the primer height when I drop rounds into my Hundo for case gauging. All primers have been at least flush. For the most part they sit a little lower than flush.
I'm sure all of these (from the pic in last post) would fire on the second trigger pull. I had that happen at a local last weekend. Attached is a slow motion of multiple failure to fires. First two trigger pulls were DA, fired one round and then had a single action FTF. Two rounds later had another Single Action FTF. This happened on a couple stages.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/85quufqaunr79lp/Video Feb 23%2C 11 40 57 AM.mov?dl=0
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Last night after work I was able to send about 300 rounds down range.
After adjusting my primer depth on the RL 1100, I ran about 100 rounds in double action. I still had 6 CCI primers not light off. Pic attached. The Winchester I used, all went bang with no issues in double action.
I dropped in a 13# hammer spring and had no issues, but that DA pull felt like a 4 banger Mazda when you have been driving a V8 sport (11.5#) car for so long. I ordered a Patriot Defense 12# spring to test out when it comes in.
For the match coming up this weekend, I'll run Winchesters primed rounds and wait for the 12# spring to come in.
I don't have a primer depth gauge and not looking to order one of these yet. I have tried the back of a digital caliper, but got inconsistent readings.
https://bullettipping.com/products/precision-primer-gauge
Thank you to all that have put in their input and suggestions.
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1 hour ago, AHI said:
Stop adjusting the swage. Adjust the primer seating to .007 to .011 below flush.
If problems continue put the factory springs back in your gun. Lots of :tuned: guns
Will not fire cci primers.
I''ll adjust and give this a try. Thanks
1 hour ago, Alaskapopo said:CCI has harder primers the fact single action will set them off but not double (which has a shorter travel and less impact) means you need to increase your hammer spring if you want to keep using those primers.
I get that running a 11.5# HS is on the lighter side, but if I can light off thousands of rounds of standard Blazer Brass, then the only thing I can think of would be primer seating depth. The hammer spring is setting factory CCI primer loaded ammo just fine.
1 hour ago, zzt said:If you have no problem firing factory ammo with CCI primers, the problem is with your primer seating depth. What you are describing is a classic example of primers not seated to bottom. An extended firing pin will not help much with that. Swaging only eliminated the crimp. Seat you primers deeper.
Going to adjust today and see how it goes. Thanks
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Received my RL1100 back in January and I have been having issues with failure to fires since day one. I have worked on a process of elimination and I am coming up dry on a solution.
Components and firearm info:
Range Brass, wet tumbled, case lubed
CCI 500 SPP
Shadow 2, 11.5lb hammer spring, extended fire pin and spring.
I started out with the 11.5# hammer spring and stock firing pin. Had zero issues with factory ammo of all brands (including Blazer that runs CCI primers).
Shot my first 200 rounds of reloads with CCI 500s and had approx 10-15 light strikes/ Failure to fires. Most would detonate on single action, but not double. Some wouldn't go off even after 5-6 trigger pulls.
I slightly adjusted my swage die for the primer pocket and ordered a extended firing pin and spring on recommendations from other shooters.
With extended FP spring I am still having issues lighting off my reloads (double and single action), but no issues with factory ammo. The only issue I can think of is that I am not seating the primers deep enough. Per the Dillon instructional videos, I have lightly adjusted my swage and primer seating stations slightly. Before I get cranking on some rounds to test, I figured I would reach out to see if anyone has any other ideas to check. Below are pics of what the swage station looks like with and without brass.
Activators and Swingers
in Skills
Posted
I just started doing this at home. Works pretty well.
As for live fire, currently I am at will of the local clubs having them in matches. I don't own a swinger and don't have access to an open range or land to shoot one, even if I did own one.