duffdawg
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Posts posted by duffdawg
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I decided to take on the task of trying to build a open gun mainly just to see if i could make one run, wanted to share my end result.
guns bilt on a brazo frame. the slide and barrel i bought off a member. here along with the grip and some other small parts. all and all im in this gun under 1000 dollars less optic. im thinking im gonna swap the grip out for a metal one
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3 hours ago, caspian guy said:
A mill makes things much nicer but it you have a decent set of calipers, a sharpie, and a center punch to do the layout work and then check it against your mount before you drill, you can do it pretty easily with a decent drill press (at least to the level of precision required for a red dot frame mount.)
i ended up finding a local guy in prattville that had a really nice bridgeport
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I've been thinking of upgrading to the x10 I currently have a leeload master. that I've done a lot of mods to and it runs smooth. i have one setup for 9 and another for .223 does anyone have one that they have a lot of rounds on? and if so what are some pros/cons i'd start off with just 9mm don't load much 223 anymore. i've been loading at the dillon 1050 but the price difference. that's a lot of ammo i could load, i maybe shoot 10-15k a year
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7 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
I have a rotary three phase converter, there are many ways to get three phase. Before that, have you seen it run? Do you know how to run the mill? don't want to insult you. If you know someone, maybe you can take them along. You'll want to go through all the controls, check forward, reverse, high and low range, vary the speeds, check the quill movement manual and auto down feed. Take some kind of cleaner, move the axis and clean as you go, move to the extremes of the axis. Check end play on the axis controls as you move the axis, it is common for the end play to be tight at extremes, and loose in the middle of the axis. Then look at the ways to see condition. It looks like a fab shop, and debris from cutting metals can reek havoc on the surfaces.
I have seen these for 1500.00 to 4000.00, the tighter it is, the more you can expect to pay.
They said we could run before we loaded. This one’s 2k I also wonder on the aspect of why it wasn’t getting used he said they’re down sizing. Who knows if that’s true or not. I know the basics of manual mill. Only run table top stuff and programs I’ve made on a cnc
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8 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
If you invest in a knee mill, before you place it, put a solid base like 3"x3" square steel and leveling feet under it. This will bring the mill up to a more comfortable height and allow a pallet jack to go under the mill for moving if needed.
What do y’all think about this mill. It’s fairly priced looks decent and some tooling comes with it collets some new end mills. I’ve been doing some research on the converters or maybe getting a single phase motor
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10 hours ago, barry said:
On a .375 hole spacing mount I belive a .0065" drop per hole gets you 1 degree.
If you do get a full size mill and have someplace to put it and the ability to put it there(2000 lbs+) you will find its one of the most useful things a man can have access to.
That’s what I’ve been thinking about getting I have a pretty big shop. From racing that’s empty now gonna put all my reloading stuff out there.
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4 hours ago, shred said:
Before you start drilling on 1911s you need to know where the 1-degree (0.9') angle is going-- on the mount or on the frame. You don't want it both places and you don't want it in neither.
With a DRO either are straightforward, but without, putting the angle on the frame is going to be trickier.
After that it's locate the first hole, spot, drill tapping size, tap, dial to next hole, repeat. For practice, put your hole pattern and threads into a piece of 1/8" thick mild steel flat bar. This will come in handy later when it's time to shorten your screws to length as you can screw the mount to that and cut/file/grind/sand the protruding screw parts (assuming your frame is 1/8" thick. Adjust or shim as needed)
That’s one thing I’ve been trying to figure out. I took some time off from shooting competitively and back when I stopped the c-more was still the main sight and all those mounts I found now days don’t have the 1 degree angle. But all the micro mounts seem to have it. I’d like the option do switch do a micro one day. I still have two c mores so more then likely that’ll be the first sight that goes on the gun. I’ve read some things that those sights have enough adjustment even without the 1 degree angle
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1 hour ago, Barcode1337 said:
I drilled my RIA 1911 for the Cheely SRO mount, 5 hole pattern using my Harbor Freight mini mill. I have DROs rigged up, so it was super easy. As long as you have your mill, vice, and whatnot set up right, it is just fine for it from what I can tell.
But then again, I'm a total hack, so take my experience for what it's worth.
his doesn't have dro sadly. which probably will make it much harder. and I'm with you I'm a total hack myself. i just wanted to try building a few of my own guns after I quit racing latemodels
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14 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
Measure twice, cut once, practice on aluminum before steel, and be patient. Have fun.
I was thinking of trying to cut something in the rough shape of a frame to get my holding down good as well. or picking up a frame jig for milling. hopefully I can find a used Bridgeport or something of the sorts before my fame comes in. I'd also like to try fitting a slide to frame with a mill probably going to try that on a 1911 first. I've also been interested in building an open 1911 for steel Challange. so that might be a good place to start trying to drill that frame first I have a slide and frame I could use for that build if I wanted to try that first. I need to do some more reading on the 1911 steel guns before if I make that decision if it's worth it over another 2011. I know overall cost is much less to build a 1911.
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2 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
I think you'd be better off to spend money and have it done. To get a decent mill, your looking at least a couple of grand or more, new or used, then the real costs start, tooling. You can have a lot of machining done for that without all the headaches. Don't get me wrong, if you have the need for a mill, it's a great tool, but no plug and play.
I’ve thought about sending it out. But I wanted to see if I could do everything on this build. I plan to build a back up gun just like it. Originally I planned to use a xwf frame that’s pre drilled but thats gonna be awhile before he has them back in stock. I’ve quit my other hobby so I need something to tinker with that isn’t as expensive
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I’ve got a pretty nice drill press. My buddy just had one he said I could use. Wasn’t sure if it’d be better than the drill press. I’ve been looking for an older Bridgeport or something of the sorts but haven’t found one in good shape lately
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You guys think the harbor freight mini mill would work for drilling the 5 holes for the optic mount in a 2011 I planned on ordering a frame with the holes pre drilled. But decided now id like to go with a frame without them
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Anyone know if there still around I emailed them a few days ago about a frame and grip and never heard back, wanted to make sure before I placed an order.
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10 hours ago, glocklover said:
Wow. I would be very happy if I could get 100,000 rounds out of my gun.
My gun has 125k on it I put a new barrel in around 75
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12 hours ago, AzShooter said:
Cactus Match League is having their Steel Challenge Match Sunday. Shooting starts at 8 a.m. and there are still spots open on Practiscore if you want to shoot. It's at Ben Avery Shooting Facility just North of Phoenix on Carefree Hwy and I-17. They have all 8 stages set up.
Rio Salado has a match Sunday as well. Can't tell you much because I haven't gone there in a while but they put on wonderful matches.
I’d love to shoot but I didn’t bring a gun. And my only off day is Saturday
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5 minutes ago, Southpaw said:
Just watching a match sounds boring to me
, but here's what's going on this weekend:
tomorrow:
https://practiscore.com/rio-salado-rspp-july-2021/register
Sunday:
https://practiscore.com/rio-salado-rmap-july-2021/register
https://practiscore.com/2020-07-18-uspsa-at-phoenix-rod-and-gun-club/register
https://practiscore.com/cactus-steel-challenge-may-16-2021-clone/register
It probably isn’t the most fun thing but I need my fix
I forgot my pistol it’s sitting in a case by my door
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I just moved out here to Scottsdale and looking for a match to go watch tomorrow I moved for work so I left my gun at home just wanting to find some matches and meet new people
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the vista are great guns mines in 38 super have about 5k on it atm haven't had any problems so far super tight and mine is fitted right doesn't locked up on the link or any of that stuff
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welcome! there's so many great guys here that know so much, you'll love it
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i wet tumble then put it in the oven on about 175 with the door cracked for about an hr or so then it hits the press and gets reloaded. unless I'm trying to reload match ammo then i deprime and resize then wet tumble. just to make sure my primer pockets are clean. I've never really noticed much of a difference.
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1 hour ago, AverageJoeShooting said:
I hate cmore. Maybe the slide rides are OK but those rts2s are pieces of garbage. They get washed out by the sun and flicker
i've used c-more slide rides all of my time in open so maybe thats one reason even tho it's only been a few years
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1 hour ago, mvmojo said:
I switched from a C-more with 12 moa dot to a Holosun 510c. I love the huge window and the circle dot. But, I didn't find the circle dot bright enough on the Holosun. It probably is bright enough, it's just that I'm borderline needing cataract lens replacement and until that happens I need more brightness than "normal" non-cloudy eyes. I'm back to the C-More and that big ol' dot is great! I also have the Holosun 507 on a carry gun I do find the 32 moa circle/dot bright enough to be effective. But the window is much smaller than either the 510c or the C-More slide-ride.
i know this is gonna sound dumb and i know that it's not about looks, But imo C-mores look so much better and they work i shot one micro now that i think about it forgot what brand and the dot was so small i think it was 3 moa
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I've been thinking of switching from the c-more. just lots of cash to switch since i've never shot a micro.
first open gun build
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
i used a 3/16 chainsaw file and went very slow. it shoots really good so far only have maybe 300 rounds on it.