DOODS
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Posts posted by DOODS
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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:
I'm a huge fan of the henning pad. Why every competition pad isn't machined to match the angle of the mag instead of the frame is truly beyond me.
Thanks for the pics, saw some of your video, reload seems smooth with the Henning
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Anybody use the New Henning basepad for their Tangfo? How does it compare to Shockbottle?
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56 minutes ago, PatriotDefense said:
You guys are killing me with this flip flopping back and forth on spring weights. First its "lets go as light as possible" now it's "i want to set off depleted uranium cuped primers........". How bout we do a 22lb hammer spring and call it good.....
lol
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On 12/25/2016 at 8:18 PM, Nemesis Lead said:
I have a dry fire routine that took me from B Class to M Class.
However, I never used a dry fire timer. To get to GM, I think that I have to change that.
Is there a dry fire timer or phone ap that really stands out from the rest?
Many thanks in advance.
B class shooter here, I want to know what dry fire routine youre doing that took you to M class!
I also dont use a timer to hone in my skills but @ times I need to know if Im really pushing myself, will a timer helps?
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I totally like the approach you did not to go crazy on first pass. Now you can just focus on having fun shooting that S3.
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Thanks Memphis
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On 11/17/2016 at 7:03 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
...here...
Trim that spot until your safety can slide underneath it and will engage with the hammer forward, half cocked, and fully cocked.
(You can also grind down the bump on the safety's built in pin. The safety is more expensive if you mess up... but it's easier to test fit it.)
That's all there is to it.
FINAL NOTE: Make sure to place the long leg of the sear spring back into groove in the safety's shaft before installing your slide, or you'll bend (ruin) the spring and gouge the bottom of your slide.
If you're installing a Titan/Bolo combination or other combination of trigger parts, you can focus on fitting them now. I got lucky and didn't need do any fitting at all.
I just got this sear and i noticed its a little shorter on the safety bump. Memphis, is this the only way to fit the safety to the sear?
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15 hours ago, Andreas said:
I'm liking this powder a lot—cheap, clean, and cool burning. Accuracy and consistency seem fine. But like others I've noticed that the powder measure takes at least ten or twenty throws to settle down after a change. Any idea why that might be?
Load data so far to make 130 PF out of my SP-01 Shadows:
147 SNS coated: 3.3 gr, 1.13"
160 SNS coated: 3.0 gr, 1.15"
147 X-Treme RN: 3.6 gr., 1.13"
165 X-Treme RN: 3.3 gr., 1.15"
Same here, like the powder a lot.
124 Xtreme RN-135pf- shoots clean and soft plus it's accurate and best of all cheap. Grafs have a deal 10 bottle free hazmat.
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On November 12, 2016 at 8:51 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
For an opposing viewpoint, Ben Stoeger suggested we take a sharpie and coat the top of the FO to dim it.
His reasoning was that you want the FO on paper 12yd and in, but on 20yd 8" plates you want to quickly be able to switch your focus to the corners of the post and an overwhelmingly bright dot is very hard to ignore.
Is it where the fiber exposed to the light? Not the ends, correct.
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How often do you change your recoil spring? I shoot 124/135pf-147/135pf.
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Anybody notice, no more back order for primer in Cabelas?
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Are those stock grips?
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2 hours ago, ArrDave said:
I meant to share my load data
COAL:1.055
Projectile: Acme 124 CLRN
Charge: 3.7 grains Prima V
Primer - Winchester Small Pistol
Brass - Mixed
Chrono - MagnetoSpeed V3 - velocities taken at the muzzle.
Average Velocity 1049 - Low 1043 - high 1065 - SD 5.4 ES 22
What gun? I load some 3.7-3.8 @1.13 with Xtreme 124gr RN and it was soft and very accurate and clean.
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This does not meter well in my 650.. Read somewhere it took more than 20 throws. The powder has inconsistent size, I get fine granules in some throws and larger ones the next. Maybe I should agitate the powder hopper to settle them powder.
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Maybe it's those 140pf ammo you shoot?
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Cabelas has some
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36 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Cheapest is Shooter Connection at $40, which I'm using now. Works just fine, is more than stiff enough for 6 ghost pouches and a BOSS hanger/bladetech combo.
I like the older DAA Pro the most - inner is very flexible so it's actually like a normal belt when the outer is off, but outer more than makes up for it.
Before that I had an original CR Speed which worked just fine.
Whichever one you get, spend an extra $6 on the Arredondo slip-on keeper for it. It's worth the $$$ ten times over.
And slap sticky Velcro on the back of your holster and mag pouches too.
Thanks
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Whats a good production belt for uspsa?
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Hey Guys, what do you guys use for your production belt. Any recommendation?
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Use a slave pin
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They do require some fitting with the screw hole and some thickness inside the grip. If not magazine will bind.
FYI there is some variances in the K9 magazine, so try them after you're done with the grip.
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3 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
I have a SDB, and I load for about 150 rounds at a time, then stop because I get bored.
BUT, I try to have at least a month's supply on hand, so I will reload 3-4 times in a single
day if necessary - load for an hour - take few hours off and then back into it.
Your probably retired?
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6 minutes ago, Bummy425 said:
I try to have enough on hand for a week in advance....so I guess that would be as I need it. I know another guy who reloads all winter....just shoots and collects brass during the season
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
I like this loading in winter and just collect brass and prep during shooting season. But on the other hand i like reloading its very relaxing. Will try different approach to see which one works for me.
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Do you guys reload a bunch, meaning a few K or just reload as you need it?
Prima V batch 16055 and CZ barrels.
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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My buddy loads Prima V 3.5-6 with 147 Xtreme and he thinks it's a hot powder.
What's your experience with this, is it a hot powder like TG? I think it's a cool powder.