Rob5r
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Posts posted by Rob5r
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I'm looking for a 135 power factor load for my 5.5" bbl GMR-15. I see the most popular bullet weight from the 2021 USPSA World Championship was 124/125gr. A lot of people are telling me that coated bullets will foul the comp pretty fast. But that's not an issue for me. I have my sights on a 125gr Blue Bullet, OAL 1.014 and Tite Group. Need to be legal for IDPA.
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I just ordered 2 black scorpion pcc pouches. How do you like them?
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On 1/23/2022 at 9:19 PM, usmc1974 said:
With the new JP5 coming out I'd look around for a used GMR15
I got lucky and a friend is upgrading to the JP-5. But I have 2 friends that are very happy with their MBX Pro Comp. Out of your price range, I know. But still one to consider.
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2 hours ago, ysrracer said:
If all you're doing is cutting off the nub, you don't need the Bowen block installed. You only need it if you're shortening the barrel.
The guy that did it is a local So Cal machinist. He doesn't have an FFL, so he took off the barrel, and I kept the frame.
He does the machine work for a few other gunsmiths, and he's really an artist.
I'm going to the Bowen so I can do a DX front sight.
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Can you share the gunsmith info? I'm looking to have the nub cut off my 929 and install a bowen block after the east coast regionals.
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1 hour ago, Toolguy said:
There is no magic crown angle. anything from flat to 45 degrees works fine. What matters is if it's concentric to the bore. Benchrest rifles often have a flat crown or a flat counterbore. Can't go wrong with that. When you start making an angle or radius, it has to be exactly centered on the bore to shoot good groups. Most of the Smith revos I've seen with the rounded crown are off center a little to a lot, and can easily be improved on with a piloted cutter.
I agree 100%. And this is why you should always clean from the chamber to the muzzle when possible. Many of my rifles have bore guides to help prevent damage to the crown. I should probably try to make something for my revolvers. Using a bore snake for now. Would like to find an Allison Speed brush too.
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2 hours ago, PatJones said:
Be aware the DX front sights can come off if you catch them on the edge of a port. I have a detent ball behind the front sight spring of my 627 to increase the tension on the sight blade.
How did you do it?
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3 hours ago, NoSteel said:
I cut the nub off mine and recrossed, much easier to keep clean and a better look.
This is exactly what I want to do.
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Is it possible to have this barrel modified to use a DX style front sight? I would like to use nite sights at indoor matches and fiber optic outdoor. I know most ICORE is outdoors, but there is an indoor club match close to my house (Yorktown, VA). Probably gonna cut off the end of the barrel at the same time. I have noticed (and read) that the comp doesn't do much, if anything. I don't use it, since I shoot limited. But that area gets leaded-up. Not going to touch anything until after the ICORE east-coast regionals. Thanks to TK Custom, it runs like a champ.
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There is a huge thread on ar15.com about building your own wet tumbler. I didn't follow the thread, but built my own from an old tread mill. Built a cylinder out of 8" PVC @ 15" long. It's too big. Great for doing a lot (Like 3k+ 9mm cases), but the cylinder weighs over 100 pounds. Handling it is a pain. Also built my own dryer using a small forced air heater in the side of a 5 gal bucket. Then I suspended some wire mesh above the heater. I sort half my load and place it in the heater. By the time I sort the second half of the load, the first half is dry. So about 2:15 min to do more than 3k 9mm cases. A few weeks ago, I knocked out two 5 gallon buckets full (about 16k) of 9mm cases in a day. I was beat!
Or if you want to buy a big wet tumbler, look at bigdawg tumblers. http://www.biggdawgtumblers.net/
This guy is awesome! He will answer questions about building your own, the right ratio of pins to brass, or any other wet tumbling question. Or he'll sell you a really high quality wet tumbler built to your specifications.
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I built a dryer. It only takes 5-10 minutes to dry about half my load of brass. My home made wet tumbler does @ 2500 9mm cases at a time. I roll the wet brass on a dry towel, then in to my dryer. I used a 5 gal bucket. Punched a @ 6" x 6" hole in the side, near the bottom and put a small forced air heater, like the one's people put under their desk at work. Then I bolted wire mesh inside the bucket, right above the heater. I stir the brass every couple of minutes, using a plastic windshield scraper I had laying around. That knocks any loose water around and heats all the brass evenly. And if you have any stray SS pins/chips, they fall to the bottom of the bucket. By the time I get me tumbler reloaded and running, the brass is dry.
As everyone else says, decapping first will make them dry sooner. I use a universal decapping die for that. You might be able to figure out a better heat source, but the small forced air heater has worked well for me. Sometimes I put a lid on it, but you have to be careful not to over heat the heater. Mine has a safety device so it doesn't overheat. Trip that and your heater will be down for a while.
I think the key here is forced, heated air and stirring the brass. Also the stirring helps to prevent the heater from overheating.
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Dimensionally, how do Dillon dies "measure up" to other brand small base dies?
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I use a Lee universal decap die on a Dillon 650. Lee has been awesome about replacing decap rods. I move pretty fast and a Perfecta case or berdan or small flash hole, even with the tensioning nut set properly, will bend a decap pin. I deprime before wet tumbling for two reasons. First one is obvious. Clean primer pocket. Second reason is that the brass dries faster. I built a brass dryer. It takes @ 5-7 minutes to dry 1/2 a .50 cal ammo can full of brass. And I used mostly things I already had laying around. I took a small forced air heater( Like women have under thier desk) and cut a hole in a 5 gal bucket at the bottom, to fit the heater. I use a bungi cord to hold it to the bucket, so I can use the heated for whatever when not drying brass. Then I installed some 1/4" wire mesh in the bucket to keep the brass above the heater. I turn on the heater, pour in the towel dried brass and stir every few min. You have to stir to release a little of the heat to prevent the heater from getting too hot and shutting down. I am typically reloading my wet tumbler duting the "stir" phase. Brass dry in no time. Works way better than a food dehydrator. Once the brass is cool, I bag and tag. Or you can reload it. Once deprimed, brass goes from dirty to ready to reload in a little over 2 hours.
I built my wet tumbler from a tredmill someone was getting rid of. Only regret is building the cylinder too big and sturdy. I should have used schedule 30 PVC instead of 40. I should have used 6" instead of 8". And probably shouldn't have gone 24" long. Big is nice, but the cylinder, water, SS pins and brass weigh @ 100 pounds when loaded! I get a work out when I'm cleaning brass.......
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I agree with Jimk60, especially on the spent primer attachment. Mine has a hose that goes to a 2 liter bottle. Then I take it to the scrap yard and get paid for something I was going to throw away anyway. I think it also helps prevent any of the powder dust/soot from getting airborne so you don't inhale it. But I would also look at changing a part called the ski jump. There is a replacement that catched the excess good primers in a small plastic bottle. The ski jump is also kind of fragile too. I also put a towel, doubled up, across the top of my case feeder. Cuts down on the noise.
Black Friday deals on Rollsizer?
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
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Looking for the best deal. All I can find is Double Alpha. They are offering 5%.