DPA
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Posts posted by DPA
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6 hours ago, philmadxx said:
I have that same trigger in my Q5 SF. I do not have that issue.
Thanks, I contacted OP and they explained how to correct.
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I have a Q4 SF with an overwatch precision trigger upgrade. I’ve noticed that when I pull the trigger, it has two positions that offer a bit of resistance before it gets to the seer break. Has anyone else seen this issue and if so, is there a solution or is that just how the trigger operates? Thanks
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Topic moved to Walther section
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On 12/20/2022 at 12:13 PM, Stefan77 said:
I found that a lot of 115grn stuff works with the 60*. I had posted this in the other JP5 thread.
Here is some of what I have tried so far. I still have a bunch more testing to do and this is all subjective with what feels best.
60*:
115grn Blazer Brass cycled and bolt would hold open (I had a couple of times that it didn't hold the bolt open).
130grn Syntech, bolt cycled but would not hold open.
150grn syntech, bolt would not cycle
70*:
130grn Syntech I noticed a little more recoil, bolt cycled and held open
150grn Syntech, bolt cycled and it held open but I can't remember if it was consistent.
As far as what felt good to me?
The 115grn BB felt really nice. Cycled fast and felt light (what I mean by light is that it wasn't a heavy'sh push)
The 130grn Syntech was pretty good, it shot well. I was happy with it but I don't like the bolt not holding open.
150grn Syntech felt a little sluggish when shooting it.
These are just my "feels" so not a really objective thing.
Are you using the stock SCS?
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On 12/7/2022 at 5:18 PM, Ac02117 said:
I shot the stock JP5 until the lock pieces became avaliable. I have a 70, 80 and 90 lock piece. I have shot subminor loads around 115PF for Steel Challenge and 131PF for USPSA with all 3 locking pieces and they ran reliably. The 70 lock piece felt the best in all cases. The way I've understood it best is that the lower the number the longer the "delay". If your ammo was lower PF you might need a higher number lock piece to run reliably. If you were running +P ammo you would want a lower number piece so the gun doesn't beat itself to death.
Have you’ve tried out a 60?
Thanks
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Thank you sir.
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I’d like to hear if anyone has tweaked the JP5 yet. I.E. springs, locking pieces and triggers. 126 pf versus 136? Or if this info is located somewhere else in the forums can you point me in that direction. Thanks.
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2 hours ago, jubi351 said:
I can tell you from my personal experience that when I first developed my loads it was 50° and I had 132 PF. 2 days before Area 8, chrono'd some rounds and it was 95° and I was 126-127PF. Bumped up my load approximately .2 and was back to 132 at Area 8.
Cleanshot or #2?
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Good morning, I have a question about the Shooters World Cleanshot/Lovex D032 gunpowder. I was reading somewhere on the internet (probably an enos rabbit hole) about reverse temperature sensitivity with this powder. I.E. hot temperature equals less pressure. Does anyone have any information on this concept as I cannot seem to find the post I originally read? In SW Florida we basically have hot and hotter and cannot really test the validity of this theory. And do you know if this also applies to accurate #2?
Thanks in advance.-D
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I had an opportunity to shoot a, delayed roller system, PCC last night.
Does anyone have knowledge of these types of guns? I’m interested in specifically how the locking pieces effect the recoil, muzzle rise/fall and is there any need to change the PF of my ammo for different angles. I think I have a basic knowledge on the concept of roller delayed, mainly due to watching a video or two, but they don’t really explain what the different angles do and how it effects competition guns. Thanks -
I finally got it to work correctly. The problem occurred bc when I reassembled the locking block, slide stop lock spring and slide stop lever there was appropriate spring tension on the lever. Then I would fully reassemble the gun and the tension would (for lack of a better word) disappear. The reason this was happening is because the disassembly lever was causing the spring to disengage from the slide stop lever. In order for this not to happen, pressure needs to be applied to the slide stop lever at the proper moment when turning the disassembly lever. Voila!
I hope that makes sense as my narrative skills are a bit rusty.
Thanks for all y’all’s help.Cheers
-Dennis
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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Is there an empty mag in the gun?
If so, it’s holding the slide release tab up.
If not, lift the slide release with your fingertip and make sure it snaps back down agressively under spring pressure.
On a lot of handgun models it is easy to reassemble the gun without properly positioning that spring. -
On 9/6/2021 at 8:27 PM, RJH said:
Pretty vague post. Maybe more info and pics would help with responses
Apologies for the vague post. In my mind I knew what I was trying to say.
So, the problem I’m having with the gun is that when it goes to slide lock I cannot get it to return forward unless I depress the slide release lever. On my other pistols all I have to do is a mag reload, pull back on the slide and then release the slide and it goes forward pushing the round into battery. On the xdm when I do that, I can pull the slide back but when I release the slide it stays in the back or locked position. Since I originally posted, I have replaced the side lock spring and catch lever. Its still not working. Placing call to Springfield today.
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None at all?
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Any thoughts, suggestions or solution?
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3 hours ago, egd5 said:
Wrong BoyGlock, My gun is a lot better than me. It just needs a more capable operator.
+1
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9 minutes ago, BoyGlock said:
Could have should have ya but
i see youre a gm so i guess you know everything about pcc 
and i dont do pcc
Nah. I don’t know much, that’s why I ask questions. I just meant your son is 18 years old. It was supposed to be humorous.
= funny.
He’s got natural talent and young in age. I wish I had both of those!
Cheers -
15 minutes ago, BoyGlock said:
I have a stock upper taccom ulw 5” barreled 9mm pcc w/o comp, 4# non-competition ar15 Sigsauer 5.56trigger, w/ not so small dot bounce. But my 18yo son can shoot it consistently w/ .15-.16 splits out to 15y all A hits on ipsc turtle targets. Out to 20-25y in .20s splits. Makes me wonder at times how much more he would gain in speed w/ a no-dot-bounce pcc’s and hair triggers installed. I taught him how to shoot so I think I know how he got there, but its more him than me. He trains w/ me regularly in live fire, dont dry fire, and not so serious in his shooting. Goes to local matches only in his free times and if he feels like going. Nothing to brag about but when he does go, he beats the local hot shots most of the time overall and has the fastest times in almost all stages. But the competitor field here is not yet as thick as yours. I believe its more of a software thing than due to dot bounce
so I leave the taccom set up alone.
You could have stopped at 18yo.
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38 minutes ago, zzt said:
My Leadstar is right at 5 lbs. 4 oz. with Railway attached. I found that using 147s at 985 fps resulted in zero dot bounce. With any lower PF or lighter bullet the dot moves.
Good, I’m glad you brought the PF issue up. My leadstar weighs in just a tad lower than that and I’m shooting 115 fmj at 850avg. FPS. (Steel challenge load)
The dot does move a bit and I always wondered if it was the low PF not taking advantage of the comp or maybe the gun was too light or both.
But the gun, with that hand-load and me made GM in a year and now I don’t want to muck with it at all
Now, with the JP setup, I have a heavier gun, big comp and 1000avg. FPS 115 fmj hand-load. I’ve kind of plateaued right now and I’m hoping the new gun will help shave some seconds off my times. Thoughts welcome and thanks again for the tip on the CF trunion.
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1 hour ago, zzt said:
That was silly. Why are you going back to a JP handguard?
I’m wanting to shoot a stock JP in matches because It’s a bit heavier than the ultra-lightweight build I already have. Im hoping to improve my times with the JP. Maybe I’ll get less dot movement with the extra weight.
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50 minutes ago, zzt said:
No heat required. I don't know why anyone would put thread locker on it. You are supposed to tighten to 50 pounds, so there is no way it will loosen by accident.
Thanks man. Came of with wrench and my weight. Looks like there was thread locker on it.
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1 minute ago, zzt said:
It comes of with a regular open end wrench. It is 1 1/4" if memory serves. When I got mine I had to run down to the hardware store to buy one.
Does it need heat? Would someone put threadlocker on it?
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I have a Jp GMR-15 with a smoke composite handguard. I am trying to put a new JP handguard on it but cannot remove the Smoke “trunion”. I am the second owner so I am uncertain as to how the trunion was put on. Does anyone have experience with these handguards? I’ve tried to contact the mfg, but no reply yet.
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18 hours ago, egd5 said:
The tuning process with weights need to take into account the PF of the load you're shooting also. There has to be a balance there and that is the tricky part. The way I understand it is the lighter the load -the lighter the buffer weight should be, generally speaking.
My load was/is about 133PF, that's why I went with 5 steel. It has worked pretty good I think. HOWEVER, a few weeks ago a friend tried 4 steel and 1 tungston and said it made a difference. We're about the same PF. I tried it and it really has made a difference in mine too. The dot barely moves when I do my part and keep it against my shoulder.
It's all about balancing your buffer with the load you're shooting.
Do you recall which spring you are using?
Holosun 507comp
in Open Pistols
Posted
How are you mounting the 507comp to your PCC? TIA