alan1985
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Posts posted by alan1985
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I tumble in smaller batches using a Thumler's Model b and the brass isn't that dirty to begin with since it's mostly indoor range brass.
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I use a tablespoon or so of wash and wax and a 1/4 teaspoon of lemishine. Let it run for 2 hrs and it's shiny as can be and stays that way thanks to the wax. I've tried dumping the water and replacing with new and didn't notice a real difference. YMMV
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Welcome aboard from a fellow NJer. We have regular USPSA and IDPA matches at Old Bridge Rifle and Pistol Club. Not sure exactly where you are in the state but it's a fun place to shoot with friendly folks. I'm happy to answer any questions if you have them. If you want to step outside of Production you can shoot Limited 10 as well if you are like me and like to tinker with your pistol.
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Personally I am not a fan of keeping a finger on the front of the trigger guard. I feel like it would make me push or pull my shots if the pressure from that finger wasn't perfectly straight back. Of course you have to do what works best for you. If you shoot well with it and are comfortable then have at it. I keep my weak hand thumb forward so it is in line with my arm and if i extend the rest of my fingers they are at about a 45 degree angle. Hard to explain so here is a generic pic from google.
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So much awesome!
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Not nearly as frequently as USPSA and IDPA but the next 3gun match is in late May. I think the 29th but don't quote me on that.
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Congrats on a successful first match! Not sure where you are in NY, but here in central NJ we have regular 3 gun, USPSA, and IDPA matches. Check out Old Bridge Rifle and Pistol club. You can see the calendar and all the matches that are scheduled.
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I owned and actually just sold the auto drum with my Lee turret. I don't have any issues with the dillon powder drop in terms of consistency since I don't really use extruded powders. The micrometer kit just lets you make fine adjustments easier.Another vote for Dillon here. 650 has been great for me but also used a 550 that got the job done until I started reloading more and more...and more.
I'm sure others can recommend more but if you do go blue check out Inline Fabrication and Uniquetek for some upgrades to the machine. I personally am a fan of the Ergo handle and mount from Inline Fab and the micrometer powder bar kit and toolhead clamp from Uniquetek.
You might give the lee auto drum a look I've never seen more consistent drops and I definatatly love blue.
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Another vote for Dillon here. 650 has been great for me but also used a 550 that got the job done until I started reloading more and more...and more.
I'm sure others can recommend more but if you do go blue check out Inline Fabrication and Uniquetek for some upgrades to the machine. I personally am a fan of the Ergo handle and mount from Inline Fab and the micrometer powder bar kit and toolhead clamp from Uniquetek. -
Much appreciated!
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I'll take them. PM inbound.
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No matter how or when you clean, make sure to properly lube your pistol. High quality, hand fitted guns need to be lubed and/or greased. It's not like a polymer gun that can run fairly dry. Pay particular attention to slide rails and a couple drops of oil toward the muzzle end and breach end of the barrel.
Personally, about every 500 rounds I field strip and wipe down with CLP, then a couple drops on the areas I mentioned and Tetra grease on the slide rails. Takes me a couple minutes to do but keeps my STI running flawlessly.
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My first and only DQ was at a carbine match (and my first competitive shoot ever). As I was moving across the stage from right to left I broke the 180 on a reload. I had a similar experience to you where everyone was very supportive and reassured me it happens to everyone. I stuck around to help score, tape, and break down the stages. What really bummed me out was it was the last stage of the match and I was doing well for my first time out.
Since then I haven't had another DQ (knock on wood) but that one has made me very very aware of the 180 every time I shoot a stage.
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Zane from STI has informed me that the adjustments are 1/4" at 25 yds.
Is it safe to assume that barrel length and caliber have an effect on that value? I was sent this link by a friend who uses this method to find the click value of his adjustable sights: http://www.larrywillis.com/handgun-sights.html and he uses a rest to make sure he's getting good groups.
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I'm relatively new to competitive shooting (less than a year in) and I try to go to at least 1 but usually 2 USPSA matches a month. More importantly, I focus on dry fire and live fire practice as frequently as I can. Sometimes that means after the wife and kids go to sleep or waking up a little early on the weekends to get some trigger time in. At first I was shooting more matches and not seeing much improvement since I had no idea what to even work on. Practicing really let me focus on those places I was lacking and see definite improvement.
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Well just figured I'd check in. It's been a few months since this thread started and to be honest I haven't had a ton of time to spend at the range. What I have been doing is working on dry fire drills in my garage after the kids are in bed. At first I was frustrated because I didn't see much score improvement and I almost gave up on dry fire completely. Finally about a month or so ago I started to see a steady climb in my scores and where I finished. I've never had a huge issue with making clean hits but combining that with speed was a struggle for me.
I still have a long way to go and need to spend more time at the range. Hopefully when the weather warms up I can head out to the pistol pits at my club and set up some mock stages for myself. I think at this point the more time I can spend practicing movement and transitions are the most beneficial. Thanks everyone for the input.
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I use it both for my .45 ACP major loads and 9mm minor loads with good results. It's not the cleanest powder out there but it works for me. My press meters it consistently and it chronos as expected every time. I shoot it behind powder coated bullets and that combo has worked really well for me. I think the important thing is availability. For me I know I can always get some so that's why I went with it. (I still always keep 8 lbs on hand at all times just in case).
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Glad to hear it!
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I go with 25 yds. Then I also make sure to know how my pistol shoots up close at say 5 or 7 yards and further out at 35 yds. That way I'm covered on any stages where there's an up close shot on a head shot target and the occasional long shot.
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That depends on your skill level and expectations. Some people just drop them in as they are. I stone the hammer hooks, cut them down if necessary, cut the sear relief angle, recut the sear primary angle if necessary, polish all contact surfaces, etc. Same as any other trigger job.
That was my expectations of what it would take to install. If I were to spend the money on a kit I would want to ensure I was maximizing it's potential.
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I did a quick google search and came up with this number: (775) 790-7671
Here's the site I found it on so you can check for yourself: http://www.manta.com/c/mx4ftqd/lantac-usa
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Just picked up my first STI (Lawman 5.0 in 9mm). What level of fitting did it take you guys to install the SVI/EGW kits?
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Sounds like a good plan. I appreciate the advice. I'm headed back to the range tomorrow so I'll get started on it then. Are there different drills I should run or keep focusing on that one until I come to the 36/36 (I'm sure that it'll take me quite a while to get there but for variety's sake
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Also, please let me know if this isn't the right place to post this topic. Should it be in Training Techniques instead?
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