Want2BS8ed
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Posts posted by Want2BS8ed
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With free brass my 147gr loads are about $0.10 per, and buying brass would add about 0.035 to that. If I wanted cheaper ammo I'd need to go to a lower bullet weight. You're looking at $500-600/mo in components based on your goals. An AmmoBot 1100 is only 6-7 months of shooting and probably worth it.
This popped up on a Tapatalk feed. I shoot a 147g subsonic round using a fully swaged Precision Delta bullet (not cast and not brass washed, but a true FMJ bullet) in a Starline case. My cost is the same as yours, 14¢ a round.
I long ago amortized the cost of a Mark 7 driven 1050. Not sure that I saved that much, because I am certainly shooting way more than I used to! LOL
That was hammered home in a recent trip to the range with an Eagle Scout from my son’s old troop (my son’s an Eagle Scout and in college now). Impressive young man in his early 20’s, engineering degree, good job, just bought his first house and was looking to purchase his first handgun. We spent 2-hours on the range and went through over 750 rounds. He innocently asked how much the ammunition cost and was floored when I told him the retail value. I graciously accepted the hot dog and beer he offered in exchange!
To the OP, start simple. A 550 or 750. I wouldn’t even get the Mr. Bullet feeder until you had some time under your belt. As for checking rounds? Even at 1,800 rounds an hour I still run everything through a Hundo gauge. -
Post a picture, please!
Yeah I would like to see a picture as well. The only time I've seen anything other than [emoji294]️-[emoji294]️ on Starline brass was their .223 basic brass that had 5 [emoji294]️'s and 5 -'s around its circumference.
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Odd that it was introduced in January 2018 (with an expected release date of Spring 2018) and here we are on the verge of January 2019 and can't even get a firm price...
Wonder what went wrong?
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There is no need. My Dillon was for free. In fact, about 4 years ago, it started making me money. Go figure.
My kind of logic... the 1st 1050 not only paid for itself, but a MkVII and another 1050!
M
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Thanks Sarge and sorry Slavex for not getting a picture up for you sooner. Been sicker than a dog...
One suggestion, if you can try to load the trays off the base if your brass is really wet. Keeps water from pooling and speeds up the drying process.
...now I'm going to go back and crawl under my rock...
M
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I bought an inexpensive round one off Amazon 5-years ago and was able to purchase an additional 6 trays for the mega stack.
A short length of PVC makes loading trays faster. I usually do this on a chest freezer so excess water isn't a problem, but set a tray down, stick a piece of PVC upright in the center hole. Dump your brass in. Place another tray on top. Dump brass in and repeat.
The PVC keeps brass from falling through the center hole so you can load trays faster. Doing it off the base keeps excess water from accumulating and extending the drying time as well.
Just remove the PVC and place the loaded stack on the base.
FWIW, depending on your brass size, you can assume 4 to 5 trays to comfortably handle a load from a Thumler's Tumbler.
M
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The FFB did nothing but jam when cases were going in. Tolerances were too tight. Back to the Dillon plate and 10k rounds later, not one jam.
I had problems with mine when I first got it. It seems somewhat counter intuitive but they don't get tightened down as tight as the OEM plate. Following FFB's instructions and using a feeler gauge, I haven't had a failure to feed since (25k+ rounds).
I own 3 now and the tighter tolerances have reduced case wobble for me. Can't speak to the other brand because I haven't used one.
M
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When discussing such things, to me the repeatability is less important - they ARE repeatable, at least until next batch of powder, when you most likely have to make adjustment.
All depends on how much powder you buy at one time! ;-)
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Rock solid and repeatable. I have several on dedicated heads, but one that is used exclusively on a universal head that gets caliber changes often.
With UniqueTek's spread sheet and a little bit of time to calibrate different powders, it's easy to dial-in a prior setting.
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One Shot tip: spray it generously into a tupperware plastic container, then dump your brass in. Stir it around to get lube on all the cases, and then dump them into the casefeeder.
This results in a thinner and more finely distributed film of lube than if you spray cases directly, and it never gets inside the cases to contaminate the powder.
Memphis,
One Shot does not contaminate powder or primers and not that a 9mm case needs it but having some in the case mouth does ease sizing and particularly neck expansion at the primer swaging station on the 1050.
A whiff of One Shot really does go a long way on short pistol cases.
Having said that, I used to use tupperware until getting my MkVII. With the higher volumes the containers were getting pretty nasty as One Shot built up. At least with the zip lock bags you can toss them fairly frequently.
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Also note the 55 mph speed limit on those trailers.
If you've involved in an accident with that trailer and Uhaul can show you were going over 55 you're screwed. They can and will pull the black box data from your truck.
I know this is an old thread, but that is a frightening thought. Assuming Uhaul's case would be a civil claim, could they compel the auto manufacturer to release that data?
When we purchased our last car a couple of years ago we signed a release acknowledging the data that was collected (quite a bit actually beyond just speed) and the manufacturer would be compelled to release the information if ordered by a court. Wondering if that would apply in a civil case now.
Not that I ever want to find out and of course I've seen this the day before renting the same trailer to deliver my son's Eagle project!
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https://www.amazon.com/KMS-Squared-Reloading-Press-Dillon/dp/B07DCZ84MH
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Despite a thorough cleaning beforehand, I always had trouble with adhesive strip lights staying in place long term.
I've been happy with the LEDs from Reloading Innovations found here:
https://reloadinginnovations.com
The LEDs are bright and solidly mounted on fitted pcb boards that clip on the press. Their gen 2 spill stops are pretty handy as well with tall rifle cases and fine powders.
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Perhaps I just have more exposure to what people do when their wallet is on the line, versus what they say others should do in some internet forum.
So yes. Yes I do.
Did you actually read the post or immediately take everything out of context in forming your reply?
Regardless if it is a 650 or 1050, a properly designed and operated system will not break "more or different" parts.
Chuckling at your "more exposure" to people comment as well. Perhaps... perhaps not. Given my career, I am satisfied with the breadth of my exposure. Certainly enough to recognize someone who is willing to lie to steal a $2 part and lacks the common sense and moral compass to know its wrong.
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I can't think of a single reason why it would be stuck other than rust.
I hear kroil is pretty good.
...unless it was cross threaded and gorilla’ed on. Let’s hope it is just rust.
Kroil is the ticket then. Love that stuff. Keep multiple cans dotted all over the shop.
Kroil and Aeroshell 66/33ms, it’s like aromatherapy for men.
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Cody Axon mentioned on his podcast though, that you break more and different parts on your 650 if you automate it.
With who’s system? With the MkVII that is utter rubbish.
If a part is going to wear or fail at 10K rounds, it is going to wear or fail at 10k rounds. You might get there faster with automation, but that doesn’t change the cycle count.
If you have a pre-mature part failure due to automation, your press is either setup wrong, your clutch setting is too high, or you just flat out made an operator error.
The only part I have ever “broken” on a 1050 was a decapping pin and that was on a manual 1050. I’m over 40K rounds now on an automated 1050 and the only part replaced was the indexing pawl because “I” didn’t have it set correctly and replaced it with an abundance of caution due to excessive wear.
You do get a year warranty with the 1050 and if you maintain the machine and have a decent preventive maintenance process, it will probably outlast you. Mine works like a champ along with my mark 7. The service from mark 7 has been excellent.I’ll add to what GringoBandito posted; don’t forget the 1050’s are commercial machines. They are pretty stoutly built.
I will also agree that MkVII’s post sale technical service has been excellent, but unless something has changed recently (which I hope it has), there pre sale support has been lacking at times.
It actually is. Most guys will play it straight and narrow here in public. I simply described what most people would actually do.
You have a dim view of humanity and the folks on this board in particularly. I have often said the politest folks you will ever meet are at the door of a gun shop. Given the demographics of the BE forums I would expect a higher level of integrity than most places.
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You really only need lanolin based lube with bottle neck cases where you are working the brass. For straight wall a hint of OneShot will do the trick and you'll never know it is there.
Another long term light OneShot user on 9mm here. I have recently started loading 223 on my MkVII and found something a bit more substantial was needed as mcracco points out. I have been making my own lanolin based lube.
A quick roll in a folded terry cloth towel before boxing (or dumping in a zip-lock bag), removes most of the unwanted lube.
M -
Dillons lube for rifle. A Generous amount.
Brass Juice for pistol. I like it better than One Shot.
have some rifle Brass Juice that I have yet to try.
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Thanks cvincent. Appreciate the input.
Have been a longtime fan of One Shot for pistol, but have been pondering a change for rifle now that I am processing in bulk.
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Kinda strange, as I have to use 5 for 9mm. And 4or 5 for .223, sizing/trimming.
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Interesting... what are you using for lubrication?
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Have you tried moving the bearings to different holes? I get 2 Bullets drop occasionally, but the top one has never made it to the seating station, it falls off during indexing. Depending on your clutch setting, it probably would stop the machine if two bullets were stacked in the seater. I run at clutch at 3 for 40 with case lube.
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That's been my experience as well and FWIW I'm using the same clutch setting on lubed 9mm.
Recently started running .223 on the press with a clutch setting of 12.
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...oh and readjust the MBF to fix the flipped bullets.
What kind of bullets are you running?
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12 minutes ago, americanbrosinarms said:
Can the bullet sensor detect 2 bullets stacked on top of each other? I have the issue if a bullet gets turn up side down in the MBF then when it drops I get a "double" feed. in this case will the Jam sense catch it or will it just force the S.O.B in and keep running?
If they stay stable in the seating station, no. The bulletin sense bounces a beam across the press. If it is broken, it assumes there is a bulletin in place, if not the bullet is either missing or upside down.
Jam sense? Really depends on your powder load. I could see a scenario with light bullets, a light powder load and a high clutch setting where it might jam it all in, but it’s unlikely. I would assume the bullet sense would catch it first, but the rounds likely compressed and toast anyway.
That all said, there is an easy fix.
Do a quick search for rubber band fix. It is a common problem and fortunately is easy, cheap and quick to fix - just loop a rubber band around the die and the sliding portion if the MBF die.
Had the exact same problem and that solved it.
M
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I started on a 550 but haven't loaded in a year, was just getting comfortable with that machine. Now its time to figure out the tips and tricks for the 1050. The swaging is new new and also things like washers with the stud/bolt. I will be off the next two days so I will be checking out youtube and searching this site.
You only need the washers on the stud bolt if you remove the ratchet.
Swaging should have been setup at the factory in the caliber you chose when purchasing the machine.
What I have always found helpful if having to adjust swaging (or more often the backing rod in the swaging station) is to copy the manual - take a Dremel tool and cutaway a case so you can see what you are adjusting.
Tip: don't cut all the way to the center of the case. Just enough to see the swaging rod enter the pocket. That way the case remains stable on the shell plate and you don't have to risk mashing your fingers holding the case in place while cycling the press.
Was doing just the same last night. Trying out a new bit on my MkVII driven press and had to reverse the SwageSense assembly so the wires exited in the front to make room for a bracket.
A cutaway case just makes things easier.
M
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I have installed low-profile bearings kits from Level 10 Innovations and Reloading Innovations on a pair of 1050's.
While not directly comparable to the 550, both in my case were well done and made a considerable difference in how smoothly the press ran.
In my opinion, more than hype.
I have often wondered about longevity. I'm well over 25k on one press with no signs of wear, but wonder what experience some of the heavier/commercial users have found?
Anyone else care to chime in?
M
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You didn’t ask and I know better usually (it is happy hour).
Remove that ratchet. I also add a few washers to that stud to extend it a tad for the primer slide.
Unless you are a newbie to reloading and are still uncomfortable with it.
IMO it is there because of Ralph Nader.
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Congratulations you will be very happy with the upgrade! It's going to be like going from a moped to a sports car.
The ratchet doesn't hurt a thing when you are using the press manually. Leave it on until you are comfortable with how everything works and have a legitimate need to remove it - something more than an internet "expert" saying so.
Clicking can get annoying and it can be a pain in the rear if something jams on the plate, but it's more likely to keep you from missing a primer, creating a squib or worse double charging a round than it is to be a hinderance.
It's off my automated press, but still there on my manual 1050.
Good choice on the bullet feeder as well, you will be giddy with the 1050's efficiency compared to your old press and the bullet feeder can wait.
If you have problems setting anything up or getting her running, drop a note here. There is lots of practical and safe advice available.
Be safe, have fun and welcome to the 1050 family!
M
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DAA Primafill - Interesting New Option
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
Another happy PAL user... so happy I bought two to have both a small and larger primer filler readily at hand without having to flip the top plate. Never had a problem, never had a flipped primer.