Almo
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Posts posted by Almo
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Haven't had any issues with mine, although only about 500 rounds through it. I usually use Federal primers, but I did test a few CCI's. Can't say how it would do on a steady diet of CCI's. Reduced trigger pull from 5lb 1oz to 3lb 3oz. Factory trigger was so nice that the change didn't seem like it was that much. The "feel" of the trigger didn't change for me.
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Those Prairie Dog baffles look interesting. For the price, it might be worth a try. Thanks.
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Thanks, Sarge. I think I'll give it a try. Anything to keep from re-adjusting my powder bar every 50-100 rounds.
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On 2/3/2019 at 7:46 AM, Sarge said:
I found my stock Dillon powder adjustment bolt would turn on its own over extended use. I can see where blue loctite or even Teflon tape might help. I personally switched to the Uniqutek unit for ease of adjustment and the fact it does not move unless I turn it.
Sarge, are you using the Uniquetek micrometer on the Dillon powder bar or do you have the complete Uniquetek powder bar with micrometer?
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On 12/24/2018 at 7:28 AM, dillon said:
On the powder measure with the two-piece bellcrank, we recommend to not add any springs or rubber bands to the measure, as in our experience it interferes with the consistency of the powder drops. Just tighten the blue wing nut so that when you push the handle forward to seat a primer, the coil spring above the blue wing nut is partially compressed. A business card should just slip between the coils with the handle pushed forward.
This is a lot different than what you say in the instructions to the powder measure. In the instructions, you say "...press the operating handle firmly forward. Tighten the blue wingnut until the top of the spring just touches the underside of the return bracket." That leaves room for several business cards between the coils. if the above is correct, you need to change your instructions.
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I'm having the same issue on both of my 550's. After loading 50 to 100 rounds, I check the throw and it's increased. If I let it go another 50 to 100 rounds, it increases more. Typically, after 100 rounds, it's increased by 0.1 grains. I have to keep readjusting it. It doesn't decrease; it's not just variability. I throw either 5 or 10 rounds to check the weight, so it isn't just random variation. I'm using VV N320 in both powder measures. Dillon says N320 is one of the better powders for consistent throws, but I'm starting to wonder. I don't remember this happening until about 6 months ago, but maybe I wasn't checking often enough back then. I also wondered if it was a settling issue. But, as EliteGuard said, how do you compensate for that? I don't want to have to throw 100 rounds to settle it.
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Thanks, everyone. I'm going to order the Hundo in .40 and see what happens to my reject rate. Like I said, it's only 0.25% with the Dillon gauge (1 in 400). And, so far, they've all fed, fired, and ejected in my .40's. So, maybe it won't change as much as the 9mm did.
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I found that one of the unanticipated benefits of the nose of the bullets sticking out of the Hundo is that, when you lay the Hundo back down, any cartridge that has some bullet setback is obvious (shorter than the others). While this is rare, I did see it with a particularly thin piece of brass (mixed range pickup).
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Never used to have issues with CBC brass. But, recently, I've had a few issues. S&B is the one I toss; primer pockets are always tight.
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124 FMJ or 125 JHP
4.1 N320
1.110" OAL
Federal or Winchester primers
Makes 130 in my Shadow, 135 in my Shadow 2 or 1911
Standard deviation on velocities is in single digits
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Thanks everyone. I do use a Lee Carbide Crimp die and my reject rate on .40 S&W is currently about 0.25%. I try to never use brass that's been fired in a Glock. However that limits my range pickup or used brass purchase possibilities. That's why I had some concern with increasing the reject rate when switching to the Hundo.
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I noticed that when I switched to the 9mm Hundo from the Dillon case gauge, my reject rate went from 2% to 20%. It seems like the head of the case was the issue most of the time. 9mm brass is relatively cheap and available, so not too big an issue, I can still use them for practice. However, everything that passed the Dillon case gauge worked fine in all my 9mm's. I've been thinking of getting a Hundo for the 40 XL, but I wondered if 40 XL would have the same results. 40 S&W cases aren't as cheap and readily available. What’s been your experience with the Hundo? I use Zero jacketed bullets in both calibers.
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On 1/12/2019 at 7:20 PM, Turtle said:
Turtle, Adam at Atlas suggested crimping to 0.421. I've started doing that and it seems to be working well. I do use a Lee resizing die, so that probably helps.
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4.9 grains N320, 180 TCFM Zero bullet, 1.185" OAL, various brass, Federal primer. Makes 171 power factor out of Atlas 1911 or STI 2011. By the way, what do you crimp to? I've crimping to 0.423 - 0.424". It's been suggested that I crimp tighter to avoid the possibility of setback during feeding and subsequent high pressure.
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MemphisMechanic,
In an earlier post you say you've been running 13# since day one. But, in a later post, you say you've settled on 15#. See page 15 of this thread. Did you change or is that a typo?
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Thanks for the reply. I'll be sure to order the Canik version for my Stock 2.
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Henning Grips
in CZ
I liked the Henning grips on my Stock 2, so I tried them on my Shadow 2. I liked the texture, but didn't like the slight bulge. On the Stock 2, the Henning grips took away the bulge and made the Stock 2 feel more like the Shadow 2. I guess I'm one of the oddballs that likes the flat profile of the stock grips on the Shadow 2. Wish they had a model with the same profile as the stock grips but more texture.
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I use the CGW trigger pin in my Shadow 2 and it reduced the trigger pull by 1/4#; I wasn't expecting that. I was going to try one in my Stock 2. Does the Stock 2 use the trigger pin for the CZ or the Canik?
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Good to know. I also have the CGW trigger pin. I'll have to start lubing it as a precaution. Maybe it will smooth out my trigger even more (if that's even possible).
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Check your trigger bar for rough spots, especially on the two little knobs on top that ride on the slide when you pull the trigger. Also check to makes sure there's no grit buildup between the trigger bar and the frame. I try to scrub between the trigger bar and frame with a toothbrush and lube that area lightly with the same lube I use for the slide; it seems to make a difference.
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Is there an issue with continuing to use the factory rubber grips on your Shadow 2? I've always liked the stock rubber grips on my Shadow and I'm considering trying a pair on my Shadow 2.
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Congrats. Like Moloch38 said, when you rack the slide, you'll know.
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On my previous note on the Dan Wesson PM9 - it doesn't have a right side safety, so you'd have to add an ambi safety. If money is no object, Atlas makes a great 1911.
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My recommendations:
Double Alpha Academy or CR Speed belt
Red Hill Tactical (two layer) or Blade Tech holster, with BOSS hanger
Double Alpha Academy mag pouches
You can buy a complete rig at Ben Stoeger Pro shop if you want and save a little.
Warning - none of these are cheap (but they're not ridiculously expensive for what you get either).
Walther new steel frame competition Q5
in Walther
Posted
Does it look like you could put a Wilson flat wire recoil spring in the factory guide rod?