CGT80
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Posts posted by CGT80
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1. Acquired 2nd XDm9. I now have 2 XDm9 pistols.
2. Acquired 1000 MG 124g JHPs
3. Was getting load set up, a load i had used before with XDm9(1) successfully.
mg jhp 124g
4.4g tg
1.135col
http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/fieldboy1111/016-1.jpg
4. Noticed that with this bullet/seat depth setup the loaded cartridge does not properly fit the chamber of XDm9(2) while IT DOES fit chamber of XDm9(1)
new barrel, XDm9(2)
http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/fieldboy1111/015-1.jpg
old barrel, XDm9(1)
http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/fieldboy1111/014-2.jpg
My dad suggested i take a loose necked case, seat the bullet very lightly, place cartridge in chamber of XDm9(2) and push case down until the caserim met the counterbore in the barrel.
Recommended seating depth for this bullet with the new barrel is more like 1.100 or less, which happens to be very close to what the loading manual lists.
???
I shoot an XD 40 cal with a barsto 9mm conversion barrel that is hand fit to my gun. I had the same problem with the same bullet as you. I had to seat to 1.070 to to not engage the rifling and the base of the bullet at that depth caused the case to bulge at the bottom of the bullet. I had my gunsmith taper the rifling a bit. Now I can load as long as I want. He also opened up the chamber with a 9mm reamer. The barsto barrel was way under the size of my dillon case gage. I didn't notice any loss of accuracy, but it runs very well now. I load a 124 MG JHP to 1.125" COAL over 4.2 gr. of win 231. I shoot steel competitions with this load and gun. I am using 40 cal magazines though, not 9mm.
My mom's xd 9mm doesn't seem to like MG 124 JHP bullets set to 1.125" though. I have not barrel checked the ammo yet.
You may want to contact Springfeild or just have a local smith ream the barrel for you. It only took my smith a few minutes to do mine. You may find a different brand bullet with a slightly different profile that will work better. I didn't want to do that since MG is priced nicely and available.
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The 550 casefeeder is an awesome upgrade. If you have your toolhead all setup and want to run many rounds and don't need to make adjustments, it is fast. My case overall length seems to be more consistent with the case feeder. The case feeder adds some work to change calibers, especially 9mm to 45acp. Working up loads and fine tuning dies or powder thrower settings is a pain with the case feeder. I have not tried loading rifle since I added the feeder. A second 550 without the feeder would be good to have. A bullet feeder would go great with the case feeder, but I can't comment on how slick that is yet (haven't bitten the bullet and bought one yet).
You cannot load rifle cartridges with the 550's Casefeeder.
be
Thanks for the reply Brian. It is nice to hear from you and I really enjoy your forums.
Maybe I should have elaborated more. The only way I know of to load rifle cases, or handgun calibers that I don't have a casefeed conversion for, is to feed each case into the small opening in front of the feed plunger. This would not be fun. For working up a load I just bump the power switch on the feeder to drop one casing or I feed one manually and then set my powder thrower. After I have the powder set and fill all of the stations, I check the powder again.
Is there a better way to load for rifle without taking the casefeeder completely off and replacing the original hardware? I have heard of people using a zip cord to hold the plunger back, but this doesn't add any more room to get your hand into the opening of the shell plate. I don't shoot rifles very often so I don't need to load more than a hundred rounds at one time. I do need to load 2000+ rounds of pistol ammo per month, so the 550 and casefeeder seem to fit the job well.
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The 550 casefeeder is an awesome upgrade. If you have your toolhead all setup and want to run many rounds and don't need to make adjustments, it is fast. My case overall length seems to be more consistent with the case feeder. The case feeder adds some work to change calibers, especially 9mm to 45acp. Working up loads and fine tuning dies or powder thrower settings is a pain with the case feeder. I have not tried loading rifle since I added the feeder. A second 550 without the feeder would be good to have. A bullet feeder would go great with the case feeder, but I can't comment on how slick that is yet (haven't bitten the bullet and bought one yet).
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I used the RCBS APS bench priming system before I bought my 550. It was nice but no where near as reliable as the 550 priming system. The APS system used these little plastic sleeves for each size primer. They wore out a lot so I made my own out of copper tubing. If you have good/new tips on your dillon pickup tubes it is easy to do by hand. I bought my press used and it had the old style tips. They weren't any fun. Winchester primers are just slightly easier to load into tubes and also to seat into brass than Wolf primers. Wolf primers work well in my Limited XD, but I like winchester. I have 7 small pistol primer tubes and that is enough to load without a break. I also just got a 550 casefeeder. All I can say is WOW! Now I want the Mr. Bulletfeeder....
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Hi Barry, I don't go on this forum as much as the others, but I ran across your post. I wish I had some advice for you, but I seem to be in a similar boat. I am looking at possibly getting a buckmark for my mom. She had fun at the SSA match, but my Ruger Hunter is just too heavy for her. Did you receive the email with the scores? If not let me know and I will send them to you. I was surprised to see that I ended up in third place. I handled a Buckmark Lite at the 2010 Shot Show and was blown away at how light it is. My mom also happens to to be a lefty. Does the Buckmark have a left handed mag release?
Good luck with your project. I hope to see you guys at the next SSA Rimfire Match (most likely on May 9th).
Chris
SSA
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My father was a residential plumber for 35 years, seen my share of mistakes. Many times, he'd just let me make them, to see how it turned out. Once, while standing on the top of an 8' ladder, using a Milwaukee Hole Hawg 1/2" right angle drill, with a 4" hole saw bit, drilling a hole through a plywood roof for a stack, the bit grabbed, spun me off the ladder, with the trigger on the drill being where it was (you depressed it with your trigger finger), I couldn't let go of the trigger. It continued to spin me, 15' off the ground, until the entire extension cord wrapped around me and pulled itself free of the outlet. I was 15....
Another time, connecting a subdivisions houses to city water, I was told to get down in the ditch, with another drill with a 1 1/2" hole saw bit, and drill through a 16" water main to put a saddle clamp on. Dad was up top, extension cord in his hands, ready to unplug at the first sign of water. I remember asking him about the pressure in the pipe, he said, don't worry about it, it's only 20 - 30 psi. When the bit finally broke through, it pushed the drill straight up, flipping it 180 degrees, flinging it out of my hands, then the 1 1/2" stream of 20 psi water hit me under the chin, lifted me off the pipe, backwards into the mud. When I finally got my bearings and looked up, the water looked like it was shooting 100' straight up. Dad was laying on the ground, behind a mound of dirt, laughing so hard he was crying. Needless to say, I learned alot about pressure that day. There is another story with he and I about fishing, but I'll save it for later.
Great stories!
My dad did the milwaukee hole hawg spin on our back patio. He was trying to drill a patio ceiling that was made of plywood siding with a 6" hole saw to install can lights. He was on two ladders and a plank until the bit caught and threw him off. He ended up on the ground looking up at a hole hawg stuck in the ceiling. He proceeded to do it one more time before finishing the job. Luckily for him, the plank was only a couple feet off the ground. I have learned to cheat with large bits by using the highest setting on the clutch and drilling with light pressure when possible. I use the Milwaukee V28 cordless tools. The drill is like the hole hawg of corded tools. It is easy to get your hands smashed or, as my boss did, get smacked in the face if your not careful.
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I am probably lucky. After a match at my local place I pick up between a quarter and half of a 5 gallon bucket of brass. Many of the shooters do not reload and don't seem to care. The club encourages me to use the brass. The range would like to have all of the brass for their brass whore to pick up, but the agreement is that we have dibs on the berms that we used. I am picking up brass to reload for four people in my family, including myself. I don't bother to mark brass. It would be extremely difficult to find it after one of our matches. Once in a while I have a bad piece, usually a loose primer pocket. I am only a class C shooter at our club. (I don't think we are sanctioned? We do our own thing.) It seems counter productive to track brass, since I have very few problems with "range brass." Sometimes I don't bother to pickup and once in a while someone beats me to it. Even though I have a bunch of brass at home already I still hate to leave some sitting on the ground. Yes I'm a brass whore and I know it.
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The solid color dillon boxes are great. The lids actually stay open so you can fill the box or load mags. My other boxes would never stay open far enough and they costed 3x as much as the dillons. I print up avery labels, similar to the dillon labels, write my load on them and stick them on the top of the lid.
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Finish up some plumbing on a building with 50 business suites in it at the end of a 12 hour day, and open the water valve slowly to half way. I went to the suite I worked on and there were no leaks. I went back to the main on the way out and turned the quarter turn valve all of the way. Handle was perpendicular to the pipe. The next morning I get a call, on the way back to the same site, from my boss asking if I turned the water back on. I realized I turned it off instead of on.
I'm not trying to slam you here, but are you a licensed master plumber, or at least a journeyman? I would guess not (since you were painting signs later?) so what were you doing working on plumbing? I am a licensed master plumber, and for a building of this size, how did you get to work on anything with a domestic water connection? I'm guessing no inspectors were involved!
Again, not trying to be snippy to you, but that's a total apprentice mistake. Oh well, at least it worked out. Glad the building didn't flood or a fitting blow apart as I'll bet your insurance wouldn't cover it if you're not a licensed plumbing company. It doesn't even have to be your work, sometimes another person before you didn't do a good job and it blows apart when you touch it! Or even contaminating the public water supply if you don't know what you're doing. Something to think about at least - liability of working outside your trade - if this applies.
I guess hearing this just struck a nerve with me this morning, sorry.
I'd hate to see it if you were slamming him
fwiw
dj
All of the listed work was maintenance, as I work for a property management company/general contractor. I am not at all new to plumbing, but when finishing up a 12 hr day even a master plumber it is possible to make mistakes. I opened the main shut off slowly and stopped at half way. I didn't want to create an air hammer and I didn't want the full flow of a 2" line running if there was a leak. After I finished the suite and closed up, I stopped back by the main valve to turn it on completely. This plumbing job included replacing angle stops, supply lines, and a faucet in the restroom and bar area of one suite.
I would be considered a master painter by most people (15 years experience), but I do not claim to be a master plumber. I do great work in a number of different trades. I am basically a working foreman. Our company is not big, so I do a lot of repair/maintenance work, and most of the painting with the help of a couple co workers. On the bigger stuff, like build outs, we hire subs and I oversee the projects while working on what is needed. My coworkers and I only do work that meets code. Our major projects are permitted. The work performed for flipping business suites is mostly cosmetic. I doubt that any contractor would bother with looking into a permit for the work being done and I doubt that a permit would at all be necessary.
Most of the build outs done in these types of suites (in the 350+ suites that I normally work on) are not permitted. My employer has actually gotten after the property managers and owners of the buildings, to enforce using licensed contractors and pulling permits. The amount of illegal, dangerous, crappy work that I run across and have to fix is amazing. The electrical is the worst part. These tenants or their cheap labor, think that you can run romex in a commercial building and connect the wires with wire nut and not boxes clamps, or staples.
I know first hand that dealing with permits, licensed vs. unlicensed contractors, and laws are a pain in the ass. On one hand there are people who know what they are doing, but don't have the proper licenses, so they are limited as to what they can do. Then, you have the people who think they know what they are doing, or just don't card, and they do crap work as well as under bid the legit guy. Then there are the licensed pros who screw over the property manager and charge two or three times what our company would. I am glad that I work for a great boss/friend and don't have to be responsible for all of the legal crap that goes with owning a business. I always tease my boss that he is living the American dream. People ask me why I don't work for myself, and usually they don't realize what it takes to be successful in the construction industry.
Our company also has a few in house crews that do steam cleaning and carpet cleaning for restaurants and other venues such as Dodger stadium, LA Staples center, Nokia Live, and other commercial buildings. One of the restaurant chains keeps trying to get our prices down. They say that company X can do it for half the cost. When my boss asked if they carried the proper insurance and permits from the cities they work in, they didn't have much to say. This restaurant chain requires us to carry insurance on our trucks and people that has a coverage rate in the millions of dollars. We also run full recovery equipment and are in some of the cities near us, the only steam cleaning crew that has been approved to clean in that city. Some of the permits to clean in Beverly Hills cost hundreds of dollars for each time that we clean one of our stops. My boss has been able to get the city to reduce the cost on some of the permits. We run top of the line equipment and have great results because of it. Some of our competitors run something like the more expensive pressure washers that home depot has. It costs an easy $50.000 to put together one of our washing trucks plus business expenses. I could only imagine how much it must cost per day just to break even.
End of Rant
I have learned from my mistakes, but I have learned even more from others mistakes.
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Finish up some plumbing on a building with 50 business suites in it at the end of a 12 hour day, and open the water valve slowly to half way. I went to the suite I worked on and there were no leaks. I went back to the main on the way out and turned the quarter turn valve all of the way. Handle was perpendicular to the pipe. The next morning I get a call, on the way back to the same site, from my boss asking if I turned the water back on. I realized I turned it off instead of on. People were calling complaining. Luckily my boss told the property managers that I was there working on the plumbing first thing in the morning and the water would be back on shortly (they didn't need to know that I finished the night before).
I painted the directional signs around a carls jr drive through one morning, after working about 14 hrs the day before and getting 4 hours of sleep before heading back. I pulled the plastic lens out, painted the box, and put the lens back in. Only problem is that the sign said drive through and had an arrow on it. It was pointed towards the street and upside down.
One evening I finished painting some aluminum store front doors at a different carls jr. I put the hardware back on an went to my truck to put the paint away. I hear people talking outside the doors and wondered why they were not going inside. I put the handles on the inside of the door. The doors open outward. OOPs Luckily I realized what happened and I changed them before I left. I felt like an idiot.
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could you -upon completion-add a picture? Thanks
I am going to order the magnets right now, and I will try and remember to post a picture when I am done.
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Thanks for sharing with us. I ordered two double mag pouches from blade tech for my ruger mk III pistol mags. They sent me an email and said they could only make single mag holders for those. I really wanted a quad holder. Now I am going to use an extra tek lok clip and attach a piece of acrylic to it to recess some of those magnets into. I should be able to put four mags sitting flat next to each other on a holder that is just slightly larger than the double holder that I use for my XD 40 mags.
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I tried out the remington small pistol primers in my 40 xd with light to medium loads and had no problems.
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I shoot a SA XD 40 4" and my favorite load is as follows:
135 grain berrys plated RN over 5.3 grains winchester 231 seated to 1.125" in 40 brass
This seems accurate and has low recoil. Berrys says to use low to medium jacketed bullet data for their bullets.
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I just noticed, the other night, the same warning on a box of Remington primers that I got in a trade. In my load book, 40 cal will reach pressures of 22,000psi and 9mm will reach 32,000 psi. If this is the case, why is 9mm not listed in the warning?
I loaded up 165 rounds of rainier 180fp copper coated bullets over 4.3 grains of win 231, seated to 1.125" with Remington small pistol primers. I will check a few cases when I first start to shoot them. I think/hope they will work fine.
I also have some cci small pistol primers that I have not tried yet. Is there any noticeable difference between Winchester and cci?
Thanks
Chris
ive had more blown 9mm Remington primers than anything...some even in factory ammo.it seems like the cups are thin, but the metal is hard....
these were regular 9mm minor ammo...loaded with 147 fmj and win 231.
Harmon
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FYI. Went with Dillon 100 round boxes. No regrets.
I second that. The lids on the mtm boxes would not stay open while I filled them or filled my mags from them. The Dillon boxes will sit completely open and then snap shut. It seems that the Dillon plastic would wear out quickly but people claim they last for a long time. The Dillon boxes are also very inexpensive.
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So, you guys only shoot at one Texas star at a time? I shot a steel madness stage with three Texas stars lined up one behind the other. If I remember correctly, we used stars with 7 plates on each one for this stage. They were about 4' apart from each other. It can really be confusing when you get three of those spinning in different directions and different speeds. I shot that stage on my second time out to a competition. I have shot about 4 competitions total now. I didn't do well the first time, so after the match I went back and practiced. With 6 10 round magazines loaded I was able to hit 20 out of 21 plates but ran out of ammo to hit the 2 pepper poppers on that stage. We usually have at least one star at each competition. I have practiced at them every time I go to a match. Last time out we practiced spinning the star and then clearing all of the plates.
I think this is my first post here. I hang out at Calguns.net also under the name CGT80. We shoot at
Mike Raahauge's Shooting Enterprises - www.raahauges.com in Norco, Ca and the club is Shooting Sports Alliance http://www.ssashooter.net/
Chris
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Bullseye works fine for me.
.40-135 copper plated over 5.3 grns bullsye
.40-165 copper plated over 5.3 grns bullsye
38 spl. 158 swc cast over 2.5 grns bullsye
I shot 900 rounds through my XD 4" .40 before i cleaned it for the first time and it wasn't too dirty. the outside had a light dusting, the barrel was hardly dirty, and the internals were about the same as other guns with different loads.
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Powder and primers from local stores
Berry’s preferred plated bullets from cabelas $61.84 per thousand with shipping
.40-135 and 5.3 grns bullseye seated to 1.120
.40-165 and 5.3 grns bullseye seated to 1.120
Shot in XD Service 4" bi-tone with polished barrel
Reloading equipment from Cabelas
Holster, mags, etc from pistol-gear.com
Tournament range bag from I-shot
The prices for powder and primers are better at cabelas than in the stores in Southern Cali., but the hazardous shipping fees from online suppliers are too much to make it worth buying in smaller quantities.
The 135's seem to shoot nice and soft, and the accuracy seems much better than winchester white box. Does anyone else use bullseye or Berry's?
Short Chamber in XDM 9mm
in Springfield (XD)
Posted
I just posted to this same question in a different thread. I had to have my barsto 9mm barrel tapered to accept a longer round. I also had the chamber opened up with a reamer. From barsto it was just way too tight for anything but factory new ammo. I haven't tested mine on paper, but when shooting steel targets in competition I haven't noticed any decrease in accuracy. My reliability went from, not at all, to rarely having a failure. Before having the barrel opened up, my ammo would pass a dillon case gage but would not drop freely into the barrel.