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LeviSS

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Posts posted by LeviSS

  1. On 10/19/2021 at 9:55 PM, guns_are_fun said:

    Some pics of my fix -

    In the first pic you can see the horizontal marks from the trigger bar inside the frame. There is some material already removed to the left of them on the vertical edge which was me trying to get to it with a small round file, and realized it wouldn't work. The second picture is after I removed the material with a dremel and with me pressing the trigger to the rear to reveal the location. The third picture is after I smoothed out that little ramp on the trigger housing. 

    ss01 (1).jpg

    ss02 (1).jpg

    ss03 (1).jpg

    I think that's the same problem I'm having.  It's even worse with a gunked up frame.

     

    Did relieving that area help the problem?

  2. 3 hours ago, Eli_a said:

    Did you try the vertical test with the sro & 13? I’m running 15 spring using the Glock tungsten rod and Timney trigger. Might try 13 to see if it works

     

    I knew I had a 13lb ISMI around and after some digging, I found it.  For some reason, it passes it now.  Maybe it was because the gun was new when I first tried it and now it's broken in?  IDK.

     

    So, for now I'm going to try to run the Timney with 13lb recoil and 4.5 striker springs.  I'll shoot it in the off season to make sure that combo works well.

  3. 2 hours ago, fergus556 said:

    I had issues with reset. Got hold of them and was told some of the trigger bars were out of spec. Had a new one in 2 days. 

    I bought one of the first ones they put out.  Maybe that's part of the problem i'm having.  Did you have to send your old trigger back?

  4. I think I've been using a 15lb because it didn't pass the vertical battery test when I was setting it up a couple years agowith a 13lb.  That was with irons.  Both ISMI.

     

    I've got a Timney in it now.

     

    Now I've got an SRO on it and was curious if a 13lb would work with the extra mass of the optic.

     

    What are you guys running?

  5. On 3/19/2021 at 6:18 PM, ImpactDoc said:

    Thx again for leaving this info here.... I had to tune the connector, I ended up going back and forth with that and the ghost connector. Both were pinning the trigger bar and it was making the return very sluggish... for sure this would affect split times. Was easy enough with trial and error to get it right. You were right though pushing the connector too far towards the inside, caused the bar to jump. I might take some polishing paper to the parts this weekend if I have time. 

     

    Do you just bend it little by little so it sits further from the housing until you get it how you like it?

  6. I got mine last night for Gen 5.  Night and day difference.  I am going to play around with the connectors a little and see what happens, but I'd be happy with it now.

     

    I think this could bring a lot more people back to Glock.  The trigger has been my only complaint about them and even that was workable.

  7. 7 minutes ago, Dirty_J said:

    Then you’ll want to be sure you can get proper trigger reset with that combo. no experience with either of those bolts.. but I have run that trigger with the 5020ss and Taccom ESSB and it was finicky in a carbine tube.. trigger reset perfectly.. but had Fred issues with with 130ish PF ammo. You basically have to compress the hydro completely to pick up rounds 100%. The 5020ss is a little short for a regular carbine tube. I recommend an A5 and shim it down to your allowable stroke. 

    Thanks.  I'm currently running an A5 tube, so that's what I am going to do.

  8. I'm currently building up a couple PCCs.  I'm using a FM bolt in one right now, but was thinking of trying something else for the other.  Here are the ones that I am considering:

     

    Stern Defense - Nickle Boron

    Iron City Red Mohawk 3.0 - Copperhead

     

    I'd like something that is coated just for easier cleanup and friction reduction in the blowback system.

     

    Any others I should look at?  Any general feelings on the two listed?

  9. I don't know why they omitted the rear cocking serrations totally on a gun that can go back and forth between production and CO.  It seems they would have put something on the back for racking off the rear of the slide when not using an optic.

  10. 20 hours ago, helocat said:

     

    I have had the same issue with every DAA drop feeder I install into a new tool head for my 1050s.   I have 5 different feeders and everyone required powering them on with some channel locks grabbing the knurling at the top of the Aluminum feeder.   Jacks up the anodizing some but once threaded on, they adjust up and down just fine.  

    Tried that...still wouldn't go in my single stage press and I've had it forever with no problem with a die ever.  Now it looks chewed up around the top.

  11. On 4/10/2020 at 6:35 PM, Riley said:

    ...Put the bullet feeder on, the die was very hard to install.  Fit fine on the 650 and the size die from the 650 threaded in just fine from the top and bottom. All good now. 

     

     

    I tried to install the bullet feeder on my new 1100 also and the die wouldn't screw in more than a turn or two before it got to the point where I couldn't get it to screw in any further.

     

    I took it out and screwed in a different die.  It screwed in fine all the way down.

     

    I tried the DAA die in my old single stage press...same thing.  It wouldn't screw in.

     

    I don't know if they had a run of dies with threads out of spec or what.  I emailed DAA to try to get another die.

     

    I feel like this press doesn't want me to load ammo on it.  I get it, it's missing parts.  I find out I need a riser, still waiting on Inline Fabrication to ship it.  Then I try to assemble everything so it's ready to rock when I get the riser and the bullet feeder die won't screw in. 🤬

  12. 5 minutes ago, Dirtchevy841 said:

    So is the stroke that much different than the 1050that you can’t mount it directly to the bench? I am not that y’all and my 1050 is perfect mounted on the bench. This may suck if I have to raise it up 

    I've never messed with a 1050.  My bench has a counter top on it with cabinets under it, which limits how close to the edge I can have it.  I'd have to be out far enough that the face of the cabinets are in the way to poke a bolt up through.

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