Elcidaviator
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Posts posted by Elcidaviator
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Nice group. You’ll get used to the DA and learn to love it
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If anyone has any wood grips laying around send me a PM.
Im also looking for:
barrel bushing
magwell spring
CGW Trigger goodies
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If they sell the uppers only, this is going to hotness in Comifornia.
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My wallet hurt just watching that video. My mind was racing...surplus 75 lowers bull shadow uppers, Accushadow 2, optics ready uppers. Well I guess I’m going to give a couple month salary to CZ USA.
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I want the S2 Bull Shadow.
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As long as you use a flat surface like a file you will begin to see the low and high spots of the frame. In a perfect world you could sand until the frame is completely flat. Unfortunately in my case I would loose the lettering if I did this. So you have to get to a happy place and just stop.
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The next step I choose was to draw file the frame. I had read on some gun restoration forums to use a file instead of sand paper to keep the lines of the pistol crisp. This works, but again be very cautious. I was draw filing the frame and between two strokes the "Czech Republic" lettering went from perfect to light. So that tells you how much metal you are taking off with each stroke.
My gunsmith gave me an alternative technique that I like much better. He glues emery cloth onto flat bar steel and uses it like a file. It leaves less marks and is far less aggressive than a file. I switched to that technique on the other side of the frame and have been impressed with the results.
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These are some of the lines left by the Evap-O-Rust
I already started to draw file the frame in this pic. You can see how beat up the front of the gun was.
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Here's some pics after it was stripped.
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I've been really bad about keeping everyone updated on the progress of the pistol. So here's some phots to catch y'all up.
I stripped the pistol using epoxy stripper. It sat for about 24hrs in that and I had to do some scrubbing here and there to get all the coating removed.
After that I put it in Evap-O-Rust for another 12ish hours to remove the undercoat. This turned out to be a mistake. My gun smith laughed at me and then pointed out where the Evap-O-Rust bath had eaten some of the metal. He explained to me that Evap-O-Rust eats away at the iron in the gun making it a little more brittle. It also made me have to sand a lot more in the parts where it left marks. Hopefully in the pics you can see the lines that the solution left. Just a little bit of advice for the next guy, don't use this stuff. It was recommended on a couple other forums, but use it with caution.
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1 hour ago, SouperMan said:
Very cool project! Curious, how do you rework the beaver tail to make it longer? Does it require brazing on and blending another piece of metal or ?
The gentleman with the longer beaver tail welded a piece of steel.
I simply have just reshaped it. I need to post some pictures and hopefully I can get around to it tonight. But between work, this project and my two little boys, I haven't had a ton of time.
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On 1/17/2018 at 12:50 PM, motosapiens said:
only reason to shoot 45 in l10 is if all you have is a 1911 in 45. Only reason to shoot l10 *at all* is if all you have is a 1911 and it's too far to drive to a real singlestack match. I personally shot L10 with a 45 at nationals in 2013 for exactly those reasons.
Now if you look at the SS nationals, you'll see alot more 45, but still plenty of 40, especially among guys who also shoot limited. not having to mess with multiple loads, changing press, etc.... is a real benefit.
Or you live in Comifornia and you can’t have normal capacity magazines but still want to play the game with a limited gun.
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Has anyone put enough rounds down range to comment on its reliability?
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12 hours ago, Raven312 said:
If I had someone mentor me through the process I'd do it in a heartbeat. Something as personal as a gift for your father will mean that much more coming from your hands.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
He is extremely generous. I called him to crown a barrel and he told me to bring the entire project by. Before I knew it he was giving me tips on how to complete the project. I’m definitely blessed.
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3 minutes ago, Quack said:
I think the 2017 equipment survey was 15% Shadow 2, and 12% Shadow
Thars fair. I’m sure 2018 will show even more of the pie going to the S2. Unless the bull shadow takes over...
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4 hours ago, Raven312 said:
I've been there and wondered what I'd bought. It was rusted and pitted, which you couldn't tell just by looking at it.
I didn't do the work myself but sent it to a fantastic guy who restored them when he had the time and inclination. He took on mine as a project and I'll keep this gun forever. There's a thread about it in the CZFirearms forum, if you're interested. (And don't knock bluing and wood, it is a winning combination...
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That’s gorgeous. I want a compact in a bad way. I personally love the blues and wood grips.
I’m familiar with the thread inn CZFirearms, it was some of the inspiration for this build.
I originally planned on rust bluing the firearm, but a local Gun Smith has graciously taking me under his wing and offered some advice. Along with the advice he has offered to hot blue the gun, so I plan on going that route now, just for the time savings.
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1 hour ago, Quack said:On 1/21/2018 at 10:14 AM, Elcidaviator said:
Whats the stats on the S2 vs Shadow in production? I haven’t been able to shoot USPSA in the last two years so I have no idea what’s the “in” Gun.The latest CZ hotness is the S2.
That’s what I figured. To be honest I’m not enthusiastic with the trigger on my S2. My Cajunized SP-01 had a superior trigger. I’m going to have to gut my S2 and throw the parts in something else.
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On 12/15/2016 at 5:44 AM, JunotFranco said:
I think trigger finger is the most effective way I have found, but if competition be careful!! Swipe the paddle and get your finger out of there! I have been called finger in trigger during a mag change in a match end even attempted DQ (which match director had to intervene because I was having non of that, it was reversed).
I started telling the ROs that I’m using a paddle mag release To prepare them for my finger placement during mag changes. I was using a PPQ M1 at the time so my finger was even farther forward and closer to the trigger (longer paddle on the M1 than the H&K).
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On 1/17/2018 at 3:21 PM, hump said:
Get the SP-01 and a production kit from Cajun Gun Works. I have one and really enjoy it.
My SP-01 with the production kit has a
much better trigger than my Shadow 2.
Buy the SP-01
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So much want...
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Standby for more pics tonight. Its stripped and started some sanding.
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2 hours ago, thompsoncustom said:
From the looks of those guns im gonna say there in the 1993 to 1994 range.
Correct, mines a 1994
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2 hours ago, Endall said:
Never have seen one this old. Did not know Interarms was ever based in Houston either. I thought they were in VA.
How is the rear sight? The front is something I would replace very quickly.
Guess it is age related, but good sights are a priority to me. Plus a comfortable trigger.
Front and rear sights have already been tossed. I’m ordering some parts from Cajun today, I think the only thing I’m really wanting to keep is the hammer. I like the classic looks.
CZ 75 Pre-B Restoration Project
in CZ
Posted
That sounds like it would work really well.