Dave Wilson
-
Posts
142 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Dave Wilson
-
-
Stages are being set up starting yesterday. It should be a great match. I tried to get us more liquid sunshine, like last year, but so far the forecast is no rain. So dress for our normal weather, bring shorts and parkas.
See you there (or here as it were)
Dave
-
Due to unforeseen match expenses the early bird entry was increased to 60.00 before the application came out, and the 20.00 entry with prize was dropped. I should have corrected this post before now, my apologies.
Dave Wilson
-
And here is the application for the golf tourney that I'm hosting the day before the match. For folks who have shot the Morro Bay range, this is the golf course about a mile east of the range. There will be a trophy for top golfer/shooter combined for the weekend, but you can play in either event by itself as well.
Dave Wilson
-
Here is the application for the 2011 SW Regional!
-
So THIS time you need to sell your "gotta have it" BEFORE the IRC :-)
-
I know it's early but the date is out for the 2011 SW regional. Saturday April 23rd will be the match date @ the Hogue range in Morro Bay. Shooting will start @ 7 am and awards as soon as possible after the match is complete. A new pricing structure will be in effect for this year though. As we know the economy is more than a bit down, our match fees have dropped. This year the early bird entry will be $45.00 and $55.00 after the cutoff date. HOWEVER.... you can cut your entry fee to $20.00 if you bring us a prize table item/s valued at $50.00 or more. We figured you all have a pile of things you have won at various matches that are still in a match bag or on a shelf getting dusty. Now is the time to do something with your old winnings!
Also, On Friday the 22nd, the day before the match, I will be putting on a small golf tourney for the shooters, family, and friends. I haven't got all the details from the golf course yet, but it will be at the Dairy Creek course near the range, it should be a 1pm start time, and $35 ish to play. I will post more info as it becomes available, if you are interested in chasing a stupid white ball around for the afternoon let me know so I can get an approximate head count.
Dave Wilson
-
Hi all,
I'm looking for some fairly high res pics of steel challenge plates that have been shot. Ideally it would have fresh white paint and only 5 shots on it. I'm trying to use it for a club logo that I would like to create in photoshop. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Dave
-
Griz, I have alot of experience with Norrell Moly Resin, which is a thermal cure phenolic resin very similiar to Dura and Cera Kotes. I have alweasys used a quality airbrush for application due to the fact you can get very precise control over flow and pinpoint accuracy in getting into small spots. If I were doing that gun I would give it a thorough degreasing with something like acetone or TCE then give it a good beadblasting. After blasting, wash it good with hot water then degrease again in your favorite solvent that does not leave a film behind. The textured surface after blasting gives the coating a "tooth" to hang on to. Coat with the sideplate off being sure not to get the coating too thick where the sideplate fits. Leave screws out of the gun and coat one at a time using needlenosed pliers to hold the threads. Dura Phos is I think their name for their phosphate etching. Not really neccesary if you get a good beadblast finish. Good Luck.
After coating way too many firearms with Duracoat, the biggest thing I would add would be to make sure you do not use glass beads when blasting the parts. I use only aluminum oxide media, the glass beads aren't aggressive enough (in my experience) for the coating to bite into. Another thing to add, wear gloves, a quality respirator, and never never never wear contact lenses while applying Duracoat, bad things will happen.
When using an airbrush I will use reducer, and with a small hvlp touch up gun, I shoot it straight. If the ambient temp is under 70f. , I will also warm the parts with a hairdryer... does it help? Not sure but it was something that I started a while back and it seems to work fine.
As for as coating screw heads... If you take a piece of masking tape and stick the threaded side onto the tape edge, you can stick all of your screws onto the a piece of tape, fold the tape onto itself covering just the threads. This gives a way to hang them for easier painting as well as keeping the threads clear of over-spray. I use pieces of toothpicks or whittled down dowels to stick into the screw holes while painting to keep them free from over-spray.
For mixing I use syringes from a vet supply place. I use a 6cc for paint and a 2 cc for hardener. Brownells sells epoxy mixing cups that work great for mixing the Duracoat. I wipe mine after use with acetone, as well as thoroughly rinsing/wiping the syringes. These parts are very cheap, but I hate stopping a project because the syringes were full of old Duracote. I also use the small cocktail straws to mix with, although a small thing, I thought that wood popsicle sticks might absorb some of the product and throw off the mix.
A whole 'nuther topic would be the color/s you are wanting to apply. Some colors, with a multi color application, need to be sprayed in the right order to get the right effect. Dark colors aren't as important, but if you decided to pimp it out, you may need to start with a lighter color first to get it to "pop". Also there are clear coats to consider. I clear everything now, Duracote has a matte finish that it great for a flat non glare look, as well as a gloss for more shiny polished look. The clears not only protect the underlying paint, but also help to even out the sheen from different coats or different colors.
Let me know if I can help with any other info....
Dave
-
With a 6 pound recoil spring it's not a big deal
-
Are you calling my Open XD 9mm customers foolish?
Yes, I have welded up big sticks and them XDM has a 170mm base pads available. It might not be as crazy or expensive as you are thinking it is. There are tons of open Glocks out there, and the XD has a sturdier rail system.
Somebody say open XD???
Dave
-
Is there a spot that will have the result from Piru CA. ??
Thanks .. K
-
Has anyone tried one of these STS scopes?
I would place it on a single sided mount (NOT mounted to the slide itself). I'm thinking it would be short enough to not get in the way of ejection.
However, I'm wondering what are the negatives of going from a Slideride to the STS?
If anyone has tried this scope, please post your comments. Any pictures of your gun would also be appreciated.
Thanks,
Darren
There are two of of that ordered the STS's. I have mine frame mounted (1911 single side Allchin mount and XD on a Carver mount) and my buddy here has his slide mounted on an open Glock. His shuts off intermittently during a COF, and mine has never missed a beat. Whether that is a problem with recoil impuse and the slide or merely a bad sight.... who knows. If you have a slide ride c-more now, I think my STS mounted on the Allchin mount has the dot lower and closer to the top of the slide than the slide ride. My buddy has a new STS coming from C-more and we'll both be running them @ the Challenge this weekend.
Dave
-
What is your goal of moving to the smaller sight, weight savings?
Goal is to be able to shoot real light load without the cases hitting the underside of a full sized dot. If there is nothing above the port to hit then the 99.99% operating gun just went to 100%.
Plus it does happen to be the brightest micro dot I've seen yet.
Dave
But Dave, your mount is still over the top of the ejection port.
The pics I posted were before I cut back the mount a bit more on the mill. I will be running the STS on my open XD-p at the Steel Challenge. If you are there, you ( or anyone else) are more than welcome to to give it a few runs to see what you think.
As an aside... a nice side mount only for the XD would be a really cool thing to see on the market :-)
I also checked the dot color and intensity vs. a Aimpoint micro.... the Aimpoint is about $250.00 brighter and nicer.
Dave
-
How's the batt tray secured? Thinking of getting this one and use on my modified (div) gun.
The battery is in a o-ring sealed slide out drawer, that way you can swap out batteries with out having to pull off the sight and re-zero.
-
Can anyone tell me if the striker springs in the XD and Glock are the same diameter? I'm working on a project gun and need to have a lighter striker spring..... if only for a test.
Thanks,
Dave
Can a Glock owner measure 1 for me?
Thanks, Dave
Just measured mine. From outside to outside it measured 0.2695 inches.
Thanks!
-
Going to a lighter firing pin spring will limit you to Federal primers if you go too light. If you want reliability stay with the factory spring.
Rich
All I have are Federals
-
What is your goal of moving to the smaller sight, weight savings?
Goal is to be able to shoot real light load without the cases hitting the underside of a full sized dot. If there is nothing above the port to hit then the 99.99% operating gun just went to 100%.
Plus it does happen to be the brightest micro dot I've seen yet.
Dave
-
Can anyone tell me if the striker springs in the XD and Glock are the same diameter? I'm working on a project gun and need to have a lighter striker spring..... if only for a test.
Thanks,
Dave
Can a Glock owner measure 1 for me?
Thanks, Dave
-
All right, I'll be danged if I can get the camera to focus on the reticle. I compared the dot to my C-More and it's definitely not quite as red. The dot size and shape looked the same with equal amounts of bloom. I really don't notice the color difference much. Sorry about no photos. I'll see if someone at the steel match this weekend has better photo skills than I do.
I just received mine ( and 2 others), I'll try to get a pic of the reticle in a while.
Dave
These 3 pics should show what it looks like on the gun,
the dot in AT (auto),
and the dot in M (max).
Dave
-
Awesome... Truly Awesome.
Dave
-
Can anyone tell me if the striker springs in the XD and Glock are the same diameter? I'm working on a project gun and need to have a lighter striker spring..... if only for a test.
Thanks,
Dave
-
All right, I'll be danged if I can get the camera to focus on the reticle. I compared the dot to my C-More and it's definitely not quite as red. The dot size and shape looked the same with equal amounts of bloom. I really don't notice the color difference much. Sorry about no photos. I'll see if someone at the steel match this weekend has better photo skills than I do.
I just received mine ( and 2 others), I'll try to get a pic of the reticle in a while.
Dave
-
Dave, A mint flavored thong.....Yep you're just sick.....
I personify that remark
The big butt was going to be my ticket to fame and glory @ Far and Near this year. I figured that once I went prone and planted that big ol' butt down on the ground the X hits couldn't help but happen. Now we'll never know
-
allright i have to ask ......Is that a "thong" on the grips?
I thought a butt like that needed a thong.... actual mint dental floss
Yes, I have welded up big sticks and them XDM has a 170mm base pads available. It might not be as crazy or expensive as you are thinking it is. There are tons of open Glocks out there, and the XD has a sturdier rail system.
Far and Near par times
in ICORE Rules and Membership Information
Posted
For those who have been to the IRC over multiple years, you have seen F&N run a few different ways, timeless, par times, 2x4 at 50.... How would you like to see F&N next year? And "not at all" will probably not be one of the options.
Thanks,
Dave Wilson