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38stupid

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Posts posted by 38stupid

  1. I sorted thru (3) S&W 617s at a local dealer. I found that the crowns on the muzzles where so far off (not concentric) that you couldn't miss it. It looked like someone took a chamfer tool in a hand drill and didn't care a bit. I also saw other minor defects. I passed on the guns - they are not cheap!!!!

    The thing to remember is that you cannot inspect quality into a part. QC verifies that the parts meet print dimensions and tolerances. The fault often is production trying to meet the takt time. (Lean manufacturing is a good tool but can be taken to extremes) QC is the gate keeper but often gets pressured into passing parts.

    38stupid

  2. Your Redhawk is an ideal gun for handgun hunting, accurate, powerful & very durable. A trigger job & a set of grips that fit your hand should be everything you need. The 5.5 in. barrel is plenty long enough for this, so don't take no shine from anyone who says it's too short.

    My old boss has a Redhawk that he shot lead and jacketed bullets out. The accuracy was terrible - I shot it myself just to make sure it wasnt my bosses hold. I examined the bore and found it was badly leaded. After cleaning out the lead with a brass patch and an electrode it shot the gun again. The accuracy was better and began to worsen.

    The barrel finish was VERY bad (rough). We pored a some lead slugs and proceeded to hand lap the barrel over a couple of nights.

    Long story short - the gun shoots accurately now with a variety of ammo.

    38stupid

  3. Is it sporting Clays or clay targets in general. What is your current skill level? If a beginner, local instruction can be good to get you the bare basics before going to one of the much more expensive instructors.

    I have shot a lot trap in the past along with some skeet. A few years ago I started shooting some sporting clays (Rochester Brooks by the way) and was in lower 40's to mid 40's on occasion - depending on which coarse I shot. I just purchased a Browning 625 Sporting Clays model and it fits me VERY nicely. I tried one out before I purchased it and I only missed a couple of birds in trap and skeet. I tried some (5) stand and did fine.

    I just want someone who is an good instructor to make sure that I am on the right track and can provide some insight into the game of sporting clays.

    38stupid

  4. I like the Dvorak Trigger Scan unit. You basically you lock the gun in a fixture and the machine with cycle the trigger. The computer will overlay multiple

    trigger pulls. I has been the most accurate method I found. If you do "fixture" the gun correctly you will get very consistent results.

    The system is also capable of measuring lock time.

    38stupid

    The link if you are interested: http://www.dvorakinstruments.com/

    PS - I dont work for them.

    38stupid

  5. I like the Dvorak Trigger Scan unit. You basically you lock the gun in a fixture and the machine with cycle the trigger. The computer will overlay multiple

    trigger pulls. I has been the most accurate method I found. If you do "fixture" the gun correctly you will get very consistent results.

    The system is also capable of measuring lock time.

    38stupid

  6. Sorry,

    I just shot the PSA match in Hershey PA was thinking of their classification system. I shot (1) IDPA match and dont plan on shooting anymore. Ill stick with steel shooting and maybe play with

    USPSA revolver.

    The wood Houge grips are exactly what I wanted. Thanks.

    38stupid

    What do you mean "Stock Class"? For IDPA it would be used in Enhanced Revolver w/4" barrel only. In USPSA it would be used in revolver. Hogue makes nice wood grips for the 625 but that may not have been what you saw.

    FWIW

    Richard

  7. I just picked up a 625 for stock class shooting. At different matches I have seen some really nice wooden grips for the 625 revolver.

    They have a wide base and nice lines. I can find them on the web. Can anyone suggest some nice competition grips for the 625?

    38stupid

  8. I been looking at this scope an was wondering if anyone else has had any experience with it:

    Millett Tactical TRS-1 Rifle Scope 30mm Tube 4-16x 50mm Side Focus Illuminated Mil-DotBar Reticle Matte

    Any comments,

    38stupid

  9. I have two.

    Started with a 30" model and traded for a 32", like the long barrels better myself.

    I have pounded out 375 rounds in two hours while taking a lesson and still no sore shoulder.

    You also can use subgauge tubes with no trigger work to get it to reset like the citori.

    It comes with all the bells and whistles everyone sends thier guns off to have done.

    If you are still looking I have one NIB I will make a deal on.

    Brad

    Send a PM on the details of the gun and price. Model, rounds thru it, etc.

    38Stupid

  10. I debated long and hard between the Cynergy and the Citori.

    As you may read in other threads, I chose the Citori. I think the Cynergy is at least as good, if not better. I simply wanted a more traditional look.

    My suspicion is that the two guns would perform nearly the same, but that at the end of the day I'd be a little more sore than a shooter with the Cynergy . . .

    It was a sacrifice I was willing to make, but let me tell you I thought a good bit about it.

    I'll end this little note by saying I'm just starting in the shotgun game - so my opinion is just an opinion. I don't have a ton of experience in this space.

    Jack

    I am going to the NRA meeting in Phoenix. I plan on spending a lot of time in the Browning booth. I had a Citori trap gun years ago and kick myself

    for selling it.

    Not being able to shoot them makes the decision much more difficult.

    Bob

  11. I started shooting clays about 8 years ago and the wife put the brakes on that! - Too many shooting hobbies.

    I now want to start shooting clays and have always loved the Brownings. How have the Cynergy guns been working?

    38 Stupid

  12. A little research has confirmed that NRA Action Pistol is back in action in Central NY. I'm interested in contacting

    someone from Hornell Sportmen Club in Hornell NY to confirm that they are hosting NRA Action Pistol matches as well.

    I used to shoot alot of NRA matches in the early to mid '90's out of Canandaigua Sportsmen Club and it would be great to

    get back to 10's and X's without having to leave the State every month.

    Please contact me at cdisalvo@rochester.rr.com or through this forum if you have knowledge of the Hornell matches

    or any other clubs in Western or Central NY that host NRA Action Pistol matches.

    Thank you... :bow:

    Chuck

    Chuck,

    Hornell only does random parts of Action Pistol. Maybe once a year they will set up the entire match. Often times on Wednesday nights they will shoot

    plates or barricade only (only one per night).

    I dont think they have had the mover working for a year or so. In order to shoot the mover they must stand in the parking lot for the longer yardages.

    That being said, Gary and his crew go to every cup and other regional matches. You couldnt meet a nicer group of guys.

    Bob :cheers:

  13. Bob,

    For me it depends on three factors.

    One, the holster and how easily it will permit me to have the gun.

    Two, the weight or perceived balance of the gun when drawing it for the exchange.

    Three, the type of scope used. Some are easy to get a grip on consistently, some are not.

    This is one a s Alan said, you have to try it for yourself, and see which works best for you, with your equipment. I would seek the method which gives you a consistent grip, that will enable a consistent exchange and re-grip with a minimum of ooops and consistent quick on target aims, whether they be barricade mount or weak hand only string.

    MJ :cheers:

    FWIW is am shooing on a caspian slide and frame with a stick shift mover mount with a Aimpoint Compm3 4 Min dot. It a sturdy rig but it does weight a ton!

    I used a 6" barrel with an aluminum 3 port comp. (9MM).

    It seems easy enough to grab the scope but what I find myself is struggling to turn off the safety without getting thumb drag on the slide. I guess I could add shields to my

    safeties.

    I am getting the parts together to make my steel / wood barricade (I HAD to design it in Solidworks!) As you guys say.........practice, practice, practice.

    Thanks for the info.

    Bob

  14. Bob,

    Get the DVD "Shooting Clean My Way". It's the one that Doug Koenig put out with Lenny Magill. I believe that Brian sells it in his store. It will show you the proper way to use the Barricade. It's harder to explain it and would be better if you could see it.

    You going to make it to Chambersburg?

    Kevin

    I finally got the DVD "Shooting Clean My Way" and saw that Doug (back in the day) shooting the right side of the barricade by drawing with the strong hand and doing a

    transfer to the weak hand. I was told by some excellent shooters that the current method is draw the gun by grabbing the guns's scope with the strong hand and then

    assuming the grip with the weak hand.

    Is this the preferred method?

    Bob

  15. Bob,

    Get the DVD "Shooting Clean My Way". It's the one that Doug Koenig put out with Lenny Magill. I believe that Brian sells it in his store. It will show you the proper way to use the Barricade. It's harder to explain it and would be better if you could see it.

    You going to make it to Chambersburg?

    Kevin

    Thanks Kevin,

    As is turns out my schedule may allow me to make the match(es). As I stated above, I am breaking in this new gun and need to get it running. I might come down

    and not shoot for score just to get the experience and trigger time!

    Hopefully I can talk Gary and some of his crew from Hornell to come down also!

    I will try to order the video today...............

    Bob

  16. Got to the cup, I think my first stage was the barricade, targets turn, I draw and place the

    gun on the barricade, fire the 1st shot....BOING... the damn barricade swings for and aft

    like one of those springy sign deals you see in front of gas stations :roflol:

    Think I missed 2, maybe 3 shots. This was a practice session or something like that (2000...2002 ??)

    so least I was aware of it for the big part of the match.

    That brings up an interesting question. I would like to say first that I have no experience with shooting with "wings' on my gun. I built the gun a couple of years ago and

    never had a chance to use it. I just pulled it out to start shooting again.

    I shot a local match yesterday and shot the barricades. The club has individual barricades at the specified distances. I was playing with different grips on the gun/barricade

    at each distance. I found what I thought was a decent grip and moved to the 3rd distance. That barricade was very LOOSE compared to the others. Needless to say

    I could not settle the dot back on the target from shot to shot.

    What is the preferred technique to use and does this help with the "bouncy" barricades?

    Bob

  17. I need the dimensions for the NRA Action Barricade. I did order a rule book a couple of years ago and cannot find it. (It probably has the dimensions in it)

    I have seen some barricades constructed completely from plywood and 2X4's and some from angle iron. I believe that the ones at the Cup are made from an angle

    iron frame with a plywood "face".

    Does anyone have the specifications for the ones used at the Cup? It would be nice to practice on the same type as used in the big match.

    Bob

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