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Combsie

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Posts posted by Combsie

  1. If I call SVI with the serial, will they be able to give me details/build sheet?

    My apologies if these questions are "dumb"/obvious. I'm a noob in the world of Infinity and $2k+ guns and I'm trying to get as much advice as possible before dropping the coin.

  2. I have a chance to purchase a SVI 38super and before I do I just wanted to make sure I'm not messing up.

    I don't know specifics of the build but what I do know is it's 100% SV, unsure of what comp is on it, 1-170mm mag, 3-140mm mags, tri-glide trigger, metal bodied CMore, short dust cover, 95% blued(stainless?) finish. The gun is 11yrs old.

    What would be a fair market price? Roundabouts w/o seeing or shooting of course.

  3. Thanks to the excellent info in this thread, I finally got around to re-loacating the pivot point in my G41. I've always done trigger pull lightening on small frame Glocks in the past and have been fairly happy achieving 3.5 to 4.0 lb trigger pulls with just connectors and springs. However, my G41 is the 3rd large frame model that I have had an opportunity to drop the same parts combination in, but large frames for me just end up at about 1 lb heavier pulls than what I have obtained with small frames.

    On my G41, I already have been running the Ghost 3.3 lb connector with the trim to fit overtravel tab along with a 5 lb striker spring, 6 lb Wolff trigger spring, and a Lightning Strike Striker. I had to go to the light striker and 5 lb striker spring in order to have 100% ignition with Remington LPP. Trigger pull after these mods came in at 4lbs-10oz, but this weight causes me fits at speed as compared to the lighter 3lb-10oz pull on my G34.

    I started off with some layout work. I decided to work with the as factory shoe and bar in order to have the stock geometry in place to make a reference mark. With the slide off the frame and the trigger bar to the rear against my overtravel stop, I slightly pulled the trigger forward for a little insurance room and scribed a line against the inside of the trigger bar right along and behind the trigger shoe. This line let me be able to take the shoe and bar out of the frame and still be able to ID the trigger bar to shoe angle at the point of trigger break. With the rear part of the trigger flat against one jaw of my drill press cross vise. I aligned my drill bit with the factory pivot pin. With a dial indicator on the side of the vise, I dialed in .125" of travel, While drilling the new hole higher in the trigger shoe, I held the trigger bar at the angle indicated by my earlier scribe mark. When I punched through the first side of the plastic shoe, I was able to make a mark on the trigger bar at the shoe to bar angle that represented the trigger break angle. I then removed the trigger bar from the shoe and center punched the drill bit mark for the new hole. I then drilled the new bar hole and ground the old hole area off. Re-assmebled everything with the new hole location and ended up with a 3lb-10oz pull with perfect function and all safeties intact. The back of the trigger shoe just barely contacts the frame at the same timing that the trigger bar makes contact with my existing overtravel stop. Good thing for the little bit of insurance I accounted for earler! I can't wait to get to the range and try it out! Thanks Joe D and all the others that contributed to this thread!

    thread-resurrection.jpg

  4. Another Midway owner here. I do agree that some of the smaller things could be a little better made, but for $40 you won't find anything better. The zippers themselves are strong, they stand up to wear, and they are pretty well organized.

    I bought the 5.11 large bag only to find out that the Midway large bag was strikingly familiar, and $85 cheaper!

  5. I have the Tac Ultra 40 with the ramped barrel. On the sides of the ramp, the edges are very sharp leaving decent size scratches on my brass. My question is, would it hurt to dremel/sand those edges down? I'm thinking it will help with feeding and extracting if I did but I don't want to bother if it'll hinder the performance any more than it already does.

  6. Sorry up front if this was answered already, but I'm having trouble finding the definitive answer.

    I have the 40S&W Tac model on order and was wondering what particular items to order. The items I'm looking for:

    1. Magazines

    2. Base pads

    3. "Race" holster that fits.

    Also, is there any recommended upgrade(s) on the cheap side that will improve performance?

    **EDIT- Just found the MBX branded mags, anyone with experience?

  7. Weekend off work finally! :goof: I'm game if you'd like a tag-a-long on Sunday? I've got a Pro chrono I can bring too, but I wouldn't mind comparing my readings to someone else's chrono(RVB).

  8. We have had a few folks sign up, all entries have been entered that have been submitted up to 5:00pm tonight

    There are 6 more that came in this evening so far

    Friday/Saturday AM has lots of room

    There is some Sat/Sun slots available, but not many

    http://www.uspsa.org/squadding/index.php?action=list&indx=328

    Jake, when I signed up yesterday morning it said Saturday/Sunday was full on the website. Is there any way you can switch me from Fr/Sat to Sat/Sun? My number is A-88757(Jason Combs)

  9. Gun- CZ SP01 Tactical 9mm with the spgk1 spring kit and 13lb recoil spring

    Powder- 3.25gr Titegroup

    Bullet- Xtreme 147 hpcb

    OAL- 1.125

    Out of 15 rounds fired, 14 were between 940 and 947fps with the remaining round going 932fps. The temperature was 36. Through my math, I averaged around a 138PF. Will it be beneficial for me to get down to 130PF or is there not a noticeable difference? I'm only able to go as low as 3.25gr with the Lee Autodisk right now. Thanks in advance for any and all input.

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