Jimk60
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Posts posted by Jimk60
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I recommend you get an extra tool head for the Lee decapping die and run brass (all brass, not just the 223) through it before wet tumbling.
+100!!
It is a little more work, when your right arm gets tired, switch to your left.
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StraightSh00ter- Get that Micrometer. Go to harbor Freight, or order from them online. Currently $17.99 for 6 inch model. Can't tell the difference between the HF model and the $42 one at Cabella. Look identical.
Can't load pistol without 1.
The Christmas gifts I gave my Dillon 650: Bullet feeder, Inline LED lighting kit, 11" powder tube with baffle plus micrometer powder bar kit for my 2nd powder measure from UniqueTek.
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My round counter is the factory box trays. When it is full - 50rds.
As makes for easier storage.
Same here with Berry's Bullets 100 rnd cases.
When primer warning goes off, add more primers, take completed rounds and load into 100 rnd plastic boxes.
Start pulling handle again until primer warning goes off, repeat above.
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If you use the Dillon expander, you may have problems with the bullet not sitting straight up.
I've switched all my expander's to the Mr. Bullet feeder expander. It is developed specifically for the 650 (and 550) to allow the case to hold the bullet upright while seating.
I would have done this without a case feeder, simply becasue I was having difficullty with some round nose 9MM that did not match the profile of the Dillon seating stem.
Some would dimple due to the force required to seat. If slightly canted, it would insert the bullet at an angle and put a slight bulge in the case. This was using Xtreme 124 GR RN.
When I switched to the MBF powder funnels, all these problems went away.
I would recommend the MBF powder funnel, even without a bullet feeder.
Edit:
I Use Hornady bullet feeder dies on my 650 with a DYI bullet feeder.
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Details!
Camera type/source.
Power.
display.
Seems like a worthwhile project an many levels.
Especially at that price.
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I have found that with the light strip, and the led in the center hole, there is more than enough light to illuminate the inside of the case for inspection.
Of course I wet needle clean, and the inside of my cases shine line a new car.
Besides I need the 3rd station for my bullet feeder.
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I ordered an LED light from Lite Tech. It included an LED for the center hole, and the light strip for the back of the front post.
I was very skeptical at first that it was worth the price. They all seem to be similarly priced.
The quality of the assembly was much more than I expected, as I'm sure Inline Fab's is the same way.
Wow! Was I wrong. One of the better additions I have made to the press.
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I ordered the Uniquetech 11" powder measure tube with the baffle, and a micrometer powder adjustment for the new powder measure.
Powder measure one (Micrometer adj, std powder tube) will be for .380 and 9MM
Powder measure two (Micrometer adj and 11" tube with baffle will be for .40 S&W and .45 ACP.
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I had the same issue with Xtreme 124 gr RN plated. The seating die would put a nice little round dimple on the tip of each bullet.
I inadvertently fixed this when I added the Mr. Bullet Feeder powder funnel. The MBF funnel creates a step in the flare that 'holds' the bullet and keeps it from tipping when seating the bullet.
It apparently also decreased the resistance to seating , as I have not had a single dimple in over 500 rounds of 9mm RN.
EDIT:
Wanted to add I was having a problem with bullets going into the seat die slightly crooked and actually seating slightly crooked. This was due to the difference in the seating die shape and the bullet shape.
The MBF fixed this by holding the bullet centered while seating.
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Lots of good advice here.
I also had the indexing ring issue. Took me a half an hour to find that was the problem.
Also check to see if the cartridge that is ejecting into the bin is catching on the ejection wire. I have had several issues with 9mm cases, mostly RP, catching on the wire instead of ejecting.
Test for this by slightly backing off on your stroke when you feel the sticking, manually push the case out of the shell plate, and complete your stroke. If no resistance it was the stuck case.
If you are wet needle cleaning (and that is all I do), you have 2 choices.
1. You'll have to lube your cases. Spray lube a little and let it dry. Should improve but you may still have powder funnel issues.
2. Exchange the Dawn liquid for Armor All Wash and Wax with Carnuba. Problem solved, no more sicking issues, either in sizing, or belling. Plus your cases will stay shiny and bright for a long time.
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My .380 ACP setup is all Lee Dies, including the FCD.
I did have to use the Dillon lock rings, the Lee could not get enough thread purchase to be viable.
Dillon 380 conversion kit gave me everything else, including the powder drop.
Works great.
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I guess I'll just have to deal with. I think my next plan is to have a powder measure for each caliber. Right now it's 4 calibers and 2 powder measures.
The other thing was the inside tool marks. Visually they were very apparent. I took a pair of tweezers with a rounded tip and drew thm across the marks and you could barely feel them. I don't think they will be the issue I was anticipating.
Good idea about separate, preset powder bars. I will give that some though.
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I can understand the length variation. Just means that if I move it I may have to adjust the belling. Not something I like, but may have to live with.
The finish on the inside is different. It is so rough, I just don't see how it won't have an impact on powder feed. Especially with fluffy powder, or extremely fine powder.
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Maybe Brian or the Dillon rep can answer this.
I recently purchased a 650 Deluxe Quick Change kit, which includes the powder measure.
When I removed an existing powder measure, and installed the new one, the first case had an out of spec bell.
When I compared the 2 powder measures it appears that the drop tube that comes in contact with the powder funnel, is seated at a different depth.
My older powder measure is seated about .030 deeper than the new one. I roughly measured this with my calipers. It is also visible to the eye when comparing the two.
I also noted that the inside of the drop tube in the original powder measure had barely visible machine marks. The inside of the drop tube on the new measure has machine marks that are so visible, they almost appear to be screw threads. Are machine marks this coarse normal on the inside of a powder drop? It would seem to create a lot of issues with powder hanging up in the tube.
Is any of this normal?
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I am loading bullets that I cast using a Lee Trunicated Cone 452-230-TL mold. The insert in the Dillon 45ACP die that is used for seating Semi-Wadcutter nose profiles makes a serious dent in the nose of this bullet. I tried reversing the insert to the round nose profile and it makes a "smiley" shaped dent in the nose.
Is anyone else loading this bullet? If so what are you using for seating the bullet without damaging the nose?
Thanks
AR15-SBR
This probably doesn't apply to your issue, but I thought I would share.
I load a lot of 45 ACP SWC. As we all know, different mfg have different profiles. So you would have to adjust your seating die every time you tried a different bullet shape.
Uniquetek makes a specialized seating insert for Dillon dies that seats on the shoulder of the SWC rather than the point. So when you find that magic point where the SWC feeds and goes into battery every time, you don't have to adjust for different SWC profiles.
Can be found here http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1561
Jim
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fully automatic primer filler
+1. Or pre-filled 100 primer tubes, from the factory.
(I know, it can't be done - but, dreaming ....
Try a Frankfort Arsenal Vibra Prime. I loaded exactly one Dillon primer tube and determined there had to be a better way.
Enter the Vibra Prime. Some hate some love it. Not so good with Win primers, but everything else, CCi, S&B it's super.
I can load 100 primers into a feed tube in under 20 seconds all day long.
WIth shaking to get all primers oriented correctly, assembly of Vibra Prime, inserting primer tube, and loading tube, I can load 5 tubes (500 primers) in about 5 minutes total.
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I'll use the Vibra Prime, Load 100 into the press feeder tube, and then load my 4 extra tubes. Gives me 500 ready to go.
Takes seconds to reload primers. Not minutes.
I can load 100 CCI or S&B SPP in under 20 seconds. Winchester can take slightly longer.
Large PP are little more finicky and can take 30 seconds or so for each tube.
How long does it take to pick them up one at a time?
I only did that once, didn't time myself, but thought there has got to be a better way.
Vibra Prime solved the issue. Used it ever since.
Haven't tried using Vibra Prime to load Dillon tubes directly. I'll have to check that out.
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After reading about all this detonation problem, I've developed 2 practices.
The first is to clean my primer tubes, both the one on my 650 and the ones I load the tube from, about twice a year. Not much of any residue found, but clean none the less.
The second is that since I load both small and large primers, every time I change over, I completely clean the primer disk. I also clean the area on the platform where the disk sits as well as the bottom of the Primer Feed body Housing.
I have had crushed primers, loaded sideways, off center, crimped pocket etc. No detonations thankfully.
I have gotten much better at 'feeling' that something is not right when I seat the primer, and I stop and clear that case.
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Regular price is $419, so that is a bargain.
You can order the expanders form Mr Bullet feeder. Drop right into the powder die on DIllon presses and do an excellent job of giving a step expansion for the bullet to sit in the case.
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Installed Lite Tech lite on my 650 yesterday (11/28). It's fabulous.
Since I wet needle clean, the inside of my cases sparkle, and I can see into them extremely well before inserting a bullet.
Any over charges or squibs, for me, will be a DAUE.
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Sorry to report, but it is perfectly possible to do a double-charge and a squib on a progressive machine.
It is pretty much impossible as long as things are going right. But strange things do happen, and to clear some jams, etc. you have to sometimes move things manually.
Read: create a room for errors.
With good discipline it is safe, but you have to REALLY concentrate on what you are doing.
In my many years of loading on progressive presses I had one or two double charges, and also made about 100 squibs.
AVOID DISRUPTIONS LIKE SYPHILIS!
In my year and a half of reloading on my 650, I have had 1 over, not double charge. Thankfully no damage to me or the firearm.
I have had about 3 squibs in my 1911. The result being, the slide locked up and would not cycle. Had to drive the bullet back into the case
All of these, the overcharge, and squibs happened because of one thing.
I was building up new loads, weighing each powder load, pouring back into the case, and replacing back into the shell plate. Occasionally, I would keep a case out for various reasons.
So I overcharged one, and replaced empty stations with a case with no powder a few times.
So they were all 'DAUE's *Dumb A$$ User Error). Not paying enough attention when handling cases outside the normal process.
Needless to say, I am much more careful when developing loads, or checking powder weight now, and never have more than one case out of the shell plate on the left side of the press.
If I need to keep one out for some reason, it goes on the right side of the press.
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My biggest problem with loaded rounds from my 650 were probably created by the Dillon die not sizing to the same degree as the Lee die would, because of the camfer.
After having several failure to go to battery on my 9MM, a fellow shooter who has been shooting longer than I've been alive (and I've been alive a long time) recommended the FCD.
I love the micrometer type adjustment on the crimp, but you have to check at each batch. Since it does not have positive locking system, it seems to occasionally back out slightly.
This had only been an issue on .45ACP. I crimp my wadcutters to .469 and have no feeding issues. If they crimp at .471, they will not consistently go into battery.
I have thought about Lee dies for seating as well. I have had a few problems with dimpling on copper plated bullets that didn't exactly match the profile of the Dillon seating die. It is my understanding that Lee will create a custom seating insert for a relatively small fee.
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I always trim after resizing.I have a question.
I don't reload 5.56/.223 yet, but plan to in the future.
It appears the standard is to trim, prior to resizing.
Wouldn't the resizing process actually lengthen the brass when it is sized prior to reloading?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
That would seem to be the logical progression.
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I have a question.
I don't reload 5.56/.223 yet, but plan to in the future.
It appears the standard is to trim, prior to resizing.
Wouldn't the resizing process actually lengthen the brass when it is sized prior to reloading?
Ideal bench height, what am I missing
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by Jimk60
Well, here's my story and I'm sticking too it.
My current reloading bench is temporary (I hope), it is a re-purposed work bench with some shelving added.
Bench top is 37" above floor. 650 Handle is 53" above floor. I use the 650/550 combo mount which I believe is a little taller than the 650 only. BICBW.
I am 6' 1". I normally start a session standing until everything is running smooth. I have an LED light system on the press, at this height I can look into each case as a powder check without any trouble.
Then I will sit on the edge of a bar height adjustable stool to continue loading. I sit on the edge because it allows me to lean forward as I load and check powder loads, plus add leverage when I need to.
I can reach my case feeder standing on the floor to add cases. Same is true for bullet feeder.
My cleaning/general purpose table is an old drafting table (I've had it 30 years, probably from the 60's). It is 38" tall 38" deep and 72" wide. I use a different non-adjustable bar height stool for working at this table. Use it for cleaning, record keeping, laptop, documentation etc.